Rose's Puppy School

Rose's Puppy School Essential foundation training in social skills, habituation, confidence and obedience for dogs under 16 weeks.

I am a qualified vet nurse and trainer with over 20 years experience. For the past 20+ years I've run puppy classes at our home in Somerset West. Using only scientifically-based force free methods, owners are helped to begin to understand their dogs and train them to be well balanced members of their family. My background is in veterinary nursing, training German Shepherd Dogs for Schutzhund/IPO and qualifying as a Thinking Pets trainer, now Guild member.

This promises to be very interesting! For pet parents and the vet professionals.https://www.facebook.com/share/1JhUj3vzQ...
16/08/2026

This promises to be very interesting! For pet parents and the vet professionals.
https://www.facebook.com/share/1JhUj3vzQ4/

A one-of-a-kind event bringing together global experts, pet professionals, and enthusiastic pet parents to explore the future of natural and holistic pet care in South Africa.

15/08/2026
15/08/2026

New course, new pups! We had such a lovely class as the pups experienced a new environment, new people, new dogs, new skills. So much learning happening in a short time!

This is going to be a fascinating webinar, especially for understanding why dogs can respond so differently even when th...
15/08/2026

This is going to be a fascinating webinar, especially for understanding why dogs can respond so differently even when they’re in the same situation.

Suzanne Clothier’s “Herder, Helper, Hunter, Hugger” concept looks at dogs through the behavioural tendencies that may influence how they interact with people, other dogs and their environment.

A dog may lean towards:

Herder – movement, control, observation and sensitivity to what others are doing.

Helper – cooperative, responsive and inclined to work alongside people.

Hunter – motivated by searching, chasing, tracking, exploring or using predatory behaviours.

Hugger – socially motivated and drawn towards closeness, physical contact and connection.

Importantly, a dog doesn’t necessarily fit neatly into one category. They may be a combination, and their individual personality, genetics, learning history, health and experiences will also shape what we see.

The webinar is Sunday 20 September 2026, and the topic could be particularly useful for thinking beyond “What breed is this dog?” towards “What personality of dog is this individual, and what motivates them?” 🐾
https://www.icbdogs.com/event-details/suzanne-clothier-herder-helper-hunter-hugger-understanding-the-differences?fbclid=IwdGRjcATs-bNjbGNrBOz5rXBkb2YFZXh0bgNhZW0CMTEAc3J0YwZhcHBfaWQMMzUwNjg1NTMxNzI4AAEeDAKVWTYNp9LXVf2KpJMqCocvCLtdSofMK85hGeqTWoR26G0bzS77h_5dTqw_aem_phRpbgqAmF11lFdiz7RmZg

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1EZaWBxYUp/

What makes dogs so different in their behaviour? In this webinar Suzanne will take a look at what makes a dog a helper, a herder, a hunter or a hugger or a combination of them all.

27/07/2026

I wonder if people will ever understand the importance of early socialisation?

I've been running my own puppy classes for 16 years and was a puppy class instructor for 10 years prior to that.

Puppy classes used to be the "fun" part of being a behaviourist. We'd get to work with puppies in the socialisation period, where introducing them to new things would be pretty easy. Puppy classes were fun for the puppies and their families. Lots of smiles, lots of laughter, lots of cute moments and the joy of watching pups happily interacting and playing with their own kind.

I'm not saying that every puppy was easy, that there weren't some pups who were shyer and took a while to feel comfortable with new things and others who needed careful management to prevent them being too much for other pups and learning bad habits.

We have always carefully managed interactions and carefully matched puppies for the best outcome. We have always ensured that play was only one aspect of class and plenty of time was spent on building a strong bond between pups and their human parents and developing other skills for healthy emotional and social development. But we have nearly always been able to integrate puppies into some enjoyable play time to develop their canine social skills and meet the very real need for conspecific play which most young dogs have.

Yet this is sadly changing. This year for the first time, I can count on one hand the number of lessons where we have been able to let puppies interact at all off lead. It's not because we don't want to or because the puppies' guardians don't want this - it is because a very large proportion of the puppies we are getting in our classes are unable to interact with their own kind even remotely competently. Instead of outgoing puppies with a natural affinity for their own species, we see:

❗️Fearfulness
❗️Reactivity
❗️Over-arousal
❗️Complete lack of communication skills
❗️Approach-avoidance conflict
❗️Confused body language
❗️Inappropriate behaviours

The average age of puppies when they began classes used to be 9-12 weeks. Sadly, we are now lucky if we get them by the age of 16 weeks. And even then the socialisation period is largely OVER. If these puppies have been out and about with their families, then they are still okay. Unfortunately many have not been anywhere.

Do you know what the most common answer to the question on our enrolment form "how often do you walk your puppy" is?
Sadly, it's "We don't yet - too young" or "Not fully vaccinated". Literally people are still being told by certain vets, breeders and even some rescue organisations that their puppies cannot leave home until they have had not 1, 2 or even 3 vaccinations, but 4 or 5 of them🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️🤦‍♀️ This means that most puppies will not leave home before they are 5 months of age.

I saw an old clip of Dr Ian Dunbar earlier today where he spoke of the leading cause of death in dogs. It's not Parvo. As he said, viruses like parvo kill a fraction of the amount of dogs that die as a result of behaviour issues.

Why have we gone backwards in this regard? Why are we sabotaging a puppy's only chance at an emotionally and socially healthy life for unrealistic safetyist nonsense? It's not scientific. It's not logical. It's not reasonable.

While we do have a cut-off age for puppy class, I'm getting to a point where I want to insist that all pups begin before 12 weeks . And if you wake up too late, tough. It's not our problem. Because for the one or two pups whose guardians did start early enough, it's not fair for them to be subjected to what ends up being a socially frought environment with the best we can hope for being desensitisation and counter conditioning, as opposed to genuine socialisation.

Puppy classes should not need to be remedial classes. Puppy classes should not be stressful for puppies or people.

I get that many people are adopting puppies these days and they can't help the age the puppy was upon adoption. But in most cases, people have puppies for a month or more before they bother to do anything. And if puppies do end up not being homed timeously, then the rescue organisations need to be actively providing for their socialisation in the meantime. Homing an unsocialised puppy is as bad as homing a puppy they didn't bother to vaccinate. Socialisation is emotional vaccination. And it's even more important for a healthy long life.

This post may seem blunt, but I won't apologise for that. What is happening right now is absolutely catastrophic for so many dogs and their human families. Things need to change.

22/07/2026

BEHAVIOUR, EMOTIONS AND NEEDS – THE LINK

Behind every behaviour is an emotion, and behind that emotion is a need.

When we identify and fulfill that need, we often improve the emotional state. As emotions improve, behaviour often improves too.

Behaviour is communication. Instead of asking, "How do I stop this behaviour?" ask, "What is my dog or cat trying to tell me?"

Here are some examples for DOGS:

1. If your dog is reactive to people or other animals – he may be feeling worried, fearful or overwhelmed and may need more distance from whatever is causing him stress and concern.

2. If your dog is chewing your furniture – he may be bored, under-stimulated or teething. He may need more mental enrichment, appropriate physical activity and suitable chewing opportunities.

3. If your dog is marking in the home – he could be feeling anxious, stressed or insecure. He may need a veterinary assessment, environmental changes and a behaviour modification plan.

4. If your dog is nipping your child – he may be feeling uncomfortable, overwhelmed or irritated. He may need space, while children should be taught how to interact with dogs respectfully and safely.

5. If your dog growls when you approach his food bowl – he may be feeling insecure about losing his food. He needs to be allowed to eat in peace while the underlying emotion is addressed through environmental changes and behaviour modification.

6. If your dog growls at you – he is not trying to dominate you or be "naughty". He is communicating that he feels uncomfortable, threatened or needs more space. Respecting the growl and addressing the underlying cause helps prevent the need for more intense defensive behaviours.

7. If your dog refuses to get off the couch – he may simply be comfortable there. Offering an equally comfortable resting place and rewarding him for choosing it is often more successful than forcing him off.

8. If your dog steals food or objects from the counter – he may be entertaining himself or taking advantage of an opportunity. He may need more enrichment and training, while the environment should be managed to remove temptation.

9. If your dog seems obsessed with playing ball – he may benefit from a greater variety of enrichment activities to satisfy his behavioural needs and reduce frustration.

10. If your dog pulls on the lead – he may be excited to explore the environment or reach interesting scents. A longer lead, more sniffing opportunities and reinforcement for loose lead walking can make walks more enjoyable for both of you.

11. If your dog jumps up on people – he may be excited and seeking social interaction. Teach him an alternative greeting that earns attention.

12. If your dog follows you everywhere – he may feel safest when close to you. He may benefit from confidence-building and learning that being alone for short periods is safe.

13. If your dog is afraid of storms – she may simply want the comfort and reassurance of someone she trusts. She can benefit from desensitization and counter-conditioning training.

14. If your dog cries when left alone – she may be experiencing distress because she has never learned that being alone is safe. Gradual independence training, enrichment and, in some cases, behavioural medication can help.

15. If your dog hides – he may be frightened or overwhelmed and needs a safe place where he won't be disturbed.

16. If your dog freezes during an interaction – he may be feeling threatened or unsure. Freezing is often an early warning sign that he needs more space or his behaviour can escalate if ignored.

17. If your dog yawns, licks his lips or turns his head away – he may be feeling uncomfortable and trying to avoid conflict. These subtle signals deserve our attention before behaviour escalates.

18. If your dog digs holes – digging may be a natural behaviour influenced by genetics, breed tendencies or environmental conditions. Providing a designated digging area gives an appropriate outlet.

19. If your dog barks excessively – he may be lonely, frustrated, stressed, excited, fearful or under-stimulated. Understanding why he is barking is the first step towards helping him.

20. If your dog chases cyclists, runners or wildlife – he may be responding to instinct, excitement or frustration. Appropriate management and training can provide safer outlets for these natural behaviours.

21. If your dog constantly seeks attention – he may be under-stimulated, anxious or have learned that persistent behaviour works. Meeting his emotional needs while reinforcing calm behaviour can help.

22. If your dog won't come when called – returning to you may simply not be rewarding enough. Build a strong recall by making coming back consistently worthwhile.

Here are some examples for CATS:

1. If your cat is scratching your furniture – she may be expressing a natural behaviour, marking territory, stretching her muscles or maintaining her claws. She needs appropriate scratching surfaces placed where she naturally wants to scratch.

2. If your cat is urinating outside the litter tray – she may be experiencing pain, stress, anxiety or dissatisfaction with the litter tray. She needs a veterinary examination and an assessment of her litter tray setup and environment.

3. If your cat hides – she may be frightened, overwhelmed, in pain or simply seeking safety. She needs a quiet place where she won't be disturbed.

4. If your cat hisses or growls – she is communicating discomfort, fear or the need for more space. Respecting these signals helps prevent escalation.

5. If your cat swats or bites during petting – she may have become overstimulated or uncomfortable. She needs her body language respected and interactions to stop before she reaches her limit.

6. If your cat avoids people – she may feel unsafe around unfamiliar individuals or may not have had positive social experiences. She needs choice, predictability and gentle introductions.

7. If your cat wakes you very early every morning – she may be anticipating food, stimulation or interaction. Providing enrichment and adjusting feeding routines may help.

8. If your cat vocalises excessively – she may be seeking attention, feeling lonely, anxious, frustrated, in pain or experiencing age-related cognitive changes. Understanding the reason is the first step.

9. If your cat knocks objects off shelves – she may be exploring, playing, seeking attention or entertaining herself. She needs more environmental enrichment and opportunities to engage in natural behaviours.

10. If your cat chases ankles or hands – she may be expressing predatory play behaviour. She needs regular interactive play with appropriate toys rather than human hands or feet.

11. If your cat refuses to use a new litter tray – she may dislike its size, location, litter type or cleanliness. Cats often have strong preferences that should be respected.

12. If your cat guards resources from other cats – she may feel insecure about access to food, water, resting places or litter trays. She needs sufficient resources distributed throughout the home.

13. If your cat sprays indoors – she may be responding to stress, territorial concerns or nearby cats. She needs the underlying cause identified rather than punishment.

14. If your cat suddenly becomes aggressive – pain, illness or fear may be contributing. Any sudden change in behaviour should prompt a veterinary assessment.

15. If your cat refuses to come out when visitors arrive – she may simply feel safer remaining hidden. Allowing her to choose whether to interact helps build confidence.

16. If your cat overgrooms – she may be experiencing pain, allergies, anxiety or chronic stress. Veterinary investigation and behavioural assessment may both be needed.

17. If your cat sleeps most of the day – this is often normal feline behaviour, but reduced activity combined with changes in appetite, grooming or interaction may indicate illness or emotional distress.

18. If your cat climbs onto high places – she may be seeking safety, observation points or personal space. Elevated resting areas are an important welfare need for many cats.

19. If your cat chases another cat around the home – the behaviour may reflect fear, frustration, competition or social conflict. Management and careful behaviour modification are often needed to improve the relationship.

20. If your cat refuses to be picked up – she may simply not enjoy being handled. Respecting her preferences helps build trust and confidence.

21. If your cat constantly seeks attention – she may be under-stimulated, anxious or have learned that persistent behaviour is rewarding. Meeting her emotional and behavioural needs while reinforcing calm behaviour can help.

22. If your cat suddenly stops playing – she may be experiencing pain, illness, stress or age-related changes. A loss of interest in play should never be ignored.

Can you think of other examples pertaining to dogs and cats?

Every behaviour has a reason. Rather than focusing only on stopping the behaviour, try to understand the emotion and need driving it.

When we stop asking, "How do I stop this behaviour?" and start asking, "What need is my dog or cat trying to meet?", we move from controlling behaviour to improving wellbeing.

Your dog or cat is communicating via behaviour all the time. Are you listening? Are you responding appropriately?

This post is based on current understanding in animal welfare and wellbeing science, affective neuroscience and clinical behaviour, including the work of Prof David Mellor, Jaak Panksepp, Dr Karen Overall, Karin Pienaar, Horwitz & Mills, and COAPE International.











Address

3 Egret Street, Helderrand
Somerset West
7130

Opening Hours

Monday 17:30 - 18:30
Tuesday 17:30 - 18:30
Thursday 17:30 - 18:30

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