Super Spood Jumpers

Super Spood Jumpers Slinger of Slings, Harbinger of Fruit Flies, Jumping Spider Fanatic, and Novice Photographer.
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It's extremely rare for real brรฉeders to offer gravid/fertile females. That's usually just flippers or wild catchers who...
08/13/2026

It's extremely rare for real brรฉeders to offer gravid/fertile females. That's usually just flippers or wild catchers who find a mature female and know they will lay fertile eggs, so they label her as gravid so they don't get bashed when the inevitable babies emerge.

No one pairs a female for the sake of offering them to others as gravid.

Another consideration is that gravid females are an unknown age, and there's no way to determine how many egg sacs they have laid already. This is important since the first couple egg sacs are the most fertile. If you are looking to raise littles, it's a great idea to pair the male and female yourself rather than obtaining a spider of unknown age and origin while supporting questionable practices and people.

Added some spoods late last night! ๐Ÿ•ท๏ธAll CB regals, none are mature, some are subs (one molt from maturity). They are us...
08/13/2026

Added some spoods late last night! ๐Ÿ•ท๏ธ

All CB regals, none are mature, some are subs (one molt from maturity). They are used to eating peanut beetle larvae.

You can see availability and adopt in real time on my website!

Jumpers posted to the website this morning ๐Ÿ•ท๏ธ.These are all CB regals. None are mature but a lot of them are on the clos...
08/10/2026

Jumpers posted to the website this morning ๐Ÿ•ท๏ธ.

These are all CB regals. None are mature but a lot of them are on the closer to adult side of being teenagers. Only German Potato Soup is mature, and she is unpaired of course.

See availability and adopt in real time at:
SuperSpoodJumpers.com

With all the recent discussion about mites, I decided I am going to start offering the product I use to keep my fruit fl...
08/04/2026

With all the recent discussion about mites, I decided I am going to start offering the product I use to keep my fruit fly cultures clean. Will you help me name it?

It's basically keeps a contained circle of diatomaceous earth around each fruit fly culture, without letting the DE actually touch the culture or get on your hands every time you need flies. It prevents outside mites from accessing the culture, and if the culture already has mites without you realizing it keeps them contained so they can't access your spider room or contaminate other feeders/cultures.

Names I'm considering:
- Fruit Fly Fortress
- Culture Keeper
- Mite Moat
- Any other good suggestions you come up with

Most people can fully eliminate mites by controlling humidity. This will be more for those of us who are raising slings who still need fruit flies, since the cultures are always humid and impossible to dry out. It's a preventative that keeps cultures from crashing or having to be tossed out, and keeps mites from infecting your whole area if you happen to receive a bad culture or keep them around for longer than recommended.

Old pic of Dodge for tax, a mature male Phidippus pius. He is not available, I just wanted to share ๐Ÿ™๐Ÿผ.

Your cucumber is inadequate. ๐Ÿค๐Ÿผ๐Ÿฅ’I said it, and I mean it.You may have seen people recommending the use of cucumbers for ...
08/01/2026

Your cucumber is inadequate. ๐Ÿค๐Ÿผ๐Ÿฅ’
I said it, and I mean it.

You may have seen people recommending the use of cucumbers for combating mite issues. I think people may be confused about this, so I figured I would clarify a bit. Cucumber does not kill or hurt mites in any way. The moisture in the cucumber is actually just attracting the mites so they can easily be removed manually from the setup. That's why the recommendations usually say to replace the cucumber often, as taking the old cucumber out is literally removing the mites that climbed onto it.

You can actually replicate this with a simple deli cup full of water. You can put a small deli cup of water in a mealworm bin or any other mite infested scenario and they will swarm that cup like it's free food on a college campus. If you add a drop of dish soap to the water, it even turns the deli cup into something of a mite death trap because the soap messes with the water surface tension and many of the mites sink to the bottom and drown. Kinda like how fruit fly traps that call for soapy water work. When I first experienced a mite issue I used deli cups of water paired with climbing barrier to catch and kill teaspoons worth of mites per deli cup ๐Ÿคฏ. This is part of the reason I don't keep humid environment feeders in my spider room anymore, if at all. It was the discoid roaches ๐Ÿ˜….

I have seen people post entire guides on mite eradication and combat techniques. The helpful intent is great, but I feel like many of the solutions offered are subpar, and distract from the true issue and relevant solution (I'm getting there). I understand where people are coming from though. Mites are gross, no one wants them, and when you are dealing with them it's a LOT to handle if you are following salad methodology or wiping down all the surfaces constantly. I've been there. I struggled against the mites that were breeding (unbeknownst to me) in my discoid colony. I fought them for months after realizing what was happening. I tried cucumber, I tried pea powder, I tried water traps, I even made battle lines of diatomaceous earth around shelving units. I tried everything and more you could find in most of the guides, and when I finally figured out what worked I felt a bit foolish.

I'm going to share a secret. There is a very simple way to completely eliminate most mite issues, and it does not involve anything as distasteful as salad ingredients. The key is one variable, humidity. Humidity is the main issue that causes mites (usually 70%+), but it's also the solution. Humidity close to or under 50% will cause most mites, like grain mites, to desiccate (death by drying out) within 2 weeks. They need extremely wet conditions to thrive and breed. This is THE MOST EFFECTIVE thing you can do to deal with a mite issue.

How does it relate to keeping jumping spiders?
Many people have read a Google result or AI generated guide about jumpers and saw a recommended humidity of 60-80%. For the most popular species in the hobby, this is not true at all. Jumpers rely much more on internal hydration for successful molts than they do humidity. As I write this my spider room is reading between 41-46%. Too much humidity all the time can actually cause a jumper's exoskeleton to dull and soften, and they end up passing away. Humidity in an enclosure should fluctuate between spritzing. It may be as high as 75-80% after a spritz but reach back into the 40s before the next spritz. This is normal and fine. So if you are having a mite issue, allow the enclosure to dry out a bit more between spritzing. You can also move the jumper to a temporary bare bones enclosure or cup for the 2 weeks while the original sits fully open and dries out. This would be ideal for jumper species that truly need the higher humidity, move them to a clean enclosure in a new location while the old one dries out. Be aware that the mites will abandon ship as soon as the enclosure starts to get dry. I highly recommend using a ring of DE around the enclosure to prevent them from spreading. You can use newspaper under the enclosure/DE to avoid things making a mess.

Also adding this tiny section to mention mites that are ATTACHED to a spider will abandon ship in dryer environments as well. Hydrate the spider with a good feeder and let them experience a period of dryness and the mites don't stay on for long. Many mites are only hitching a ride, and very few species are actually going to be feeding on the spider.

What if your whole room is humid? This can definitely be an obstacle. The tiny affordable dehumidifiers you find online are ๐Ÿ’ฉ, and the good ones can be spensive. Your best bet is to run your AC extra to drop the humidity. AC units pull humidity out of the air when cooling. You could also potentially find a high quality dehumidifier for rent. My house was built in the 70s and we are in Florida, and our indoor humidity still naturally hovers around 50%. Maintaining a dryer environment than the mites require should be very feasible for most people.

What about fruit fly cultures? First of all, if you aren't raising slings (like the legitimate babies), you do not need a fruit fly culture. Fruit flies are not a suitable feeder option for Phidippus species past the first few instars. Feeding fruit flies to juvenile or older Phidippus species can be entertaining, but the flies offer no benefit to the jumpers at that age and the flies lack proper hydration the jumpers need to molt successfully. But if you ARE raising slings and you DO need fruit flies, it's a great idea to keep them contained and separated with a bowl of DE. If your cultures are coming from an outside source there is a very good chance they will contain some mites, and this is normal and not usually a big issue. If you are making your own cultures you can freeze your dry media to eliminate potential mites and eggs. The DE bowls are a great method though and have really helped me keep my own cultures clean since implementing them.

If you are currently thinking "MITES?! I didn't know mites were a possible issue!", please remain calm. If you are not keeping your enclosures too wet, and not dealing with fruit flies or other humid feeders, the chances of you ever experiencing a mite issue are almost zero.

This started as a short spur of the moment post and became a bit of a long winded Ted talk. Hopefully it's helpful. I would greatly appreciate this post being shared. Feel free to copy the link and post it if you see someone in a group asking about mites. If you find this information helpful and are not following my page, please consider doing so. I try to be transparent about jumping spider topics and care, but most of my time is spent producing captive brรฉd spoods.

Spoods available ๐Ÿ•ท๏ธSome individuals added to the website. A bit late in the week but that just means they can ๐Ÿšข tomorrow...
07/20/2026

Spoods available ๐Ÿ•ท๏ธ

Some individuals added to the website. A bit late in the week but that just means they can ๐Ÿšข tomorrow ๐Ÿ˜œ.

SuperSpoodJumpers.com

Lifespans?Lifespan can vary from species to species, but regals are the most popular species in the hobby so that's usua...
07/12/2026

Lifespans?

Lifespan can vary from species to species, but regals are the most popular species in the hobby so that's usually what people are talking about. I see a lot of people parrot inaccurate info about males compared to females, and I feel the difference between them is often exaggerated (for regals at least). I like to let people know 2 is the average with them rarely making it to 3. I have had lots of people send me updates on littles I rehomed years previously, with the jumper (even males) now being 2-3 years old, but I think it's important to under-promise and over-deliver on expectations. Males live slightly shorter lifespans sure, but not by a whole year like people tend to repeat. Maybe a few months difference, and if you consider how much time a female will spend on eggs once mature the time you actually get to spend with them is essentially a wash. Respectfully, I don't think people who are newer to the hobby should be advising others on lifespan expectations, since they haven't even kept jumpers long enough to know if what they are saying is true. It's perpetuating this idea in the hobby that males turn one and die shortly after. That is not the usual case ๐Ÿ˜….

With that being said, jumpers can be delicate creatures and there are males AND females that pass before reaching 2+. Unfortunately, we don't always know the exact reason behind a jumper passing. If you only had them for a short time and you know they weren't mature, it may be worth trying to troubleshoot with a trusted source. Sometimes all we can do is make guesses though. They are very impactful creatures for being so small, even if they aren't especially long lived โค๏ธ.

I'm not going to be upset at anyone for feeding wild caught prey, just understand the risk ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ.I don't really agree with ...
07/12/2026

I'm not going to be upset at anyone for feeding wild caught prey, just understand the risk ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿผ.

I don't really agree with the justification of feeding wild caught spiders wild caught prey though. The jumper being wild caught does not lower the risk of feeding them a contaminated feeder. In the wild, they take that risk, and it's part of the reason we expect a longer average lifespan in captivity. The jumper being wild caught does not make them immune to chemicals, trace amounts of pesticides, or parasites. We can remove that risk altogether with captive bred feeders for the low cost of maybe $10 every 2 months. Or a one time purchase of an all your spood can eat peanut beetle culture ๐Ÿ˜‰. It's too easy to not have to use wild feeders.

SuperSpoodJumpers.com

Littles added to the website ๐Ÿ•ท๏ธ, sending to new homes tomorrow! I can also hold if you aren't quite ready ๐Ÿ˜Š.All CB regal...
07/06/2026

Littles added to the website ๐Ÿ•ท๏ธ, sending to new homes tomorrow! I can also hold if you aren't quite ready ๐Ÿ˜Š.

All CB regals (Phidippus regius), ranging from i7-sub adults. None are full grown just yet.

SuperSpoodJumpers.com

I got a Tarantula about a month ago. I'm definitely more of a jumper person, but this was a fun trade and it's a dwarf s...
06/28/2026

I got a Tarantula about a month ago. I'm definitely more of a jumper person, but this was a fun trade and it's a dwarf species so I figured I would try my best with them. They molted this past week and then ate a peanut beetle larvae. Just wanted to share some pics I got because they are quite a beautiful species. Many of you may have seen them before, Typhochlaena seladonia (Brazilian Jewel aka BJs).

Technically they are a trap door spider but they are still very young/small and haven't made a trap in the cork bark yet. They have been hanging out at the top of their enclosure. They MIGHT think they are a jumping spider ๐Ÿ˜….

I believe they are called Brazilian Jewels because of their beautiful coloration, and the fact that they cost a Brazilian dollars.

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Winter Haven, FL
33578

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