LK9 Online Dog Training and Coaching

LK9 Online Dog Training and Coaching Professional dog training and virtual coaching available worldwide.

Results-based coaching for puppy training, obedience training, and solving dog behavior problems using practical methods that work anywhere. 🐕🌍 If you're unhappy with your dogs’ behavior, you will be amazed at how easy your dog can be transformed from the obnoxious animal that no one likes to be around, to the most remarkable, calm, trustworthy companion you could ever imagine, even off leash and

in public. If you have a dog that thinks that coming to you is optional, or if you have struggled through training that has not gotten you any farther than when you started, maybe it’s time you took a look at our training options and what we can do for you.

Few combinations are more predictably disastrous than this one: a powerful guardian breed, pit bull-type dog, battle-bre...
08/05/2026

Few combinations are more predictably disastrous than this one: a powerful guardian breed, pit bull-type dog, battle-breed mix, or other physically formidable dog with a known bite history, produced through questionable breeding practices, being “rehomed” into an environment that may include children.

Who made that disaster possible?

Is it the ‘source’ who repeatedly produces dogs that aren’t suitable for the homes acquiring them? Is it the rescue that receives the dog further down the line and decides its history might interfere with any future adoption? Is it the owner who wants to believe that love, good intentions, and a cute new name would somehow neutralize genetics, physical power, and an established willingness to bite?

It’s all of it.

Before anyone begins screaming that “pit bull” isn’t a breed or that dog breeds are routinely misidentified, let’s acknowledge what’s true. The United States doesn’t maintain a comprehensive national database identifying the breed of every dog involved in a bite, mauling, or fatal attack. The CDC records deaths under ICD-10 code W54, “bitten or struck by dog,” but doesn’t record the dog’s breed. Pit bull-type dog is an umbrella term covering several related breeds and countless mixes, and visual identification isn’t infallible.

Although those are legitimate limitations, they don’t mean the available information is meaningless.

CDC data show that 468 Americans died after being bitten or struck by dogs between 2011 and 2021. The annual average was 43 deaths, but that average conceals the direction things were moving. There were 35 deaths in 2018 and 81 in 2021.

A 2025 p*er-reviewed analysis of CDC WONDER data identified 420 dog-related deaths between 2018 and 2023 and found a significant upward trend during and following the pandemic. CDC WONDER subsequently recorded 127 deaths under W54 in 2024. That’s a 165 percent increase over the 48 deaths recorded in 2019.

Those are death certificates, not speculations.

The breed-specific figures come from records-based research because the CDC doesn’t collect breed information. The updated DogsBite.org dataset covering 2005 through 2024 attributes 536 American fatalities to pit bull-type dogs. Rottweilers were the next closest category with 63.

DogsBite.org is an advocacy organization, not a government agency. Its research is compiled from police reports, animal-control records, court documents, veterinary information, photographs, and news reporting. That should always be disclosed when its figures are used.

It’s equally dishonest to dismiss the dataset merely because the government decided not to create a breed registry of its own.

The hospital evidence isn’t particularly comforting either.

A 2026 Level I trauma-center study examined 276 dog-bite patients treated between 2016 and 2024. Pit bulls were implicated in approximately one-third of the injuries. Those patients required surgical intervention 61.5 percent of the time, compared with 47 percent for all other breeds combined. They also had higher Injury Severity Scores and underwent more operations.

Seventy-nine percent of the dogs involved were pets.

Another 2026 study examined 906 patients with facial dog-bite injuries. Family dogs were responsible for 61.3 percent of those injuries. Among the breeds identified, pit bulls were the most frequently reported at 22.4 percent. Labradors followed at 10.5 percent, with German Shepherds at 7 percent.

Individual trauma centers can’t tell us the national bite rate of every breed because nobody knows exactly how many dogs of each breed and mix exist. They can tell us what kinds of dogs keep appearing among patients with serious injuries and what happens after those patients reach the hospital.

Not every pit bull, American Bully, Cane Corso, Boerboel, Dogo, Presa, Rottweiler, or other powerful dog is dangerous, and anybody with a clue isn’t arguing that they are.

The point is that the consequences of a failed placement aren’t equal across all dogs. A ten-pound dog and a hundred-pound dog may both bite. They don’t possess the same ability to dismantle a human being.

The current population of new dog owners has also been taught that the internet operates on facts and that “research” means accepting whatever a Google summary places at the top of their computer screen. They find the answer that supports the decision they’ve already made and call themselves informed.

The market responds by producing litter after litter from dogs selected because they’re intact, available, unusually large, an unusual color, heavily muscled, or currently popular online. Stable temperament, health clearances, working ability, predictable structure, and suitability for ordinary homes become secondary to what can be sold quickly.

Professional dog people have watched this happen repeatedly. Dogs are bred without meaningful temperament evaluation, buyers are approved without serious screening, and puppies are placed without any plan for helping the owner through adolescence and social maturity.

The breeder collects the money and hopes everything works out, and if it doesn’t, somebody else will deal with the dog.

Indiscriminate breeding is already a problem. Producing a surplus of large, powerful dogs with unstable temperaments, poor recovery, exaggerated physical characteristics, low thresholds, or a strong inclination toward conflict was always going to become a public nightmare.

So far, reality has met expectations.

No, not every one of the dogs that match this description is in an unsuitable home. That’s never been my argument.

What can’t be ignored is the number of shelters and rescues seeking “experienced fosters” for dogs that can’t live with children, can’t live with cats, can’t tolerate other dogs, can’t accept visitors, can’t be safely handled by a veterinarian, and can’t remain in the home that originally acquired them.

We’re assured that the dog will be sweet once he trusts you and that he only needs time to decompress. We’re told he was failed by humans and needs a quiet home where nothing unexpected ever occurs.

Eventually, the requirements for this “good home” exclude every normal feature of human life.

What we’re rarely told is why this dog was ever considered suitable for placement among the general public, to begin with.

Suburban Sally is better off with fi****ms training and a G***k before she brings home that Pit Bull in the window of the doggie deli-case at the local shelter. Freshness date has been obscured by a litany of half-truths or untruths about the dog’s origin and bite status.

Her children might be safer, anyway.

Serious, conscientious breeders who understand what they’re producing don’t treat every inquiry as a sale. They’re willing to tell people no, and they’re willing to explain why.

The unqualified buyer will usually keep looking until someone says yes.

Eventually, that person finds a breeder more interested in the buyer’s bank balance than the buyer’s ability to raise, train, contain, and manage the dog. Nobody asks whether the home is appropriate or whether the owner has the sand to remain consistent after the novelty wears off.

The buyer takes home an adorable puppy, then raises it as though it were a Golden Retriever.

The first cracks may appear at eight or ten months. The dog becomes larger, stronger, more territorial, more suspicious, less tolerant, or more willing to resist physical control.

The adorable wad of loose skin and puppy fat is now a hundred pounds of active protest. He’s discovered that the humans can’t make him do anything he doesn’t want to do.

That dog didn’t suddenly become someone else; the people simply reached the end of the period when puppyhood allowed them to avoid dealing with what they’d purchased.

After an incident or two exposes how badly overmatched they are, the owners may or may not call the breeder.

A good breeder is still there. That breeder helps the owners understand what’s happening, refers them to a competent trainer, and guides them through the transition into adulthood before a juvenile delinquent becomes a serial offender.

The other kind of breeder blames the owner, stops answering messages, and blocks the number. There’s plenty more gullible newbies willing to buy from the next litter.

If the breeder is thoughtful enough to take the dog back, and the dog is still young and marketable, the breeder may try to place it again. The first home “wasn’t a good fit.” The owners “didn’t understand the breed.” The dog “needs someone with more experience.”

Gawd forbid anybody indicates the dog has committed acts of aggression.

Seems to me that determining whether the original buyer understood the breed should’ve occurred before money changed hands, but whatever.

Now the dog is an adolescent with a behavioral history, and the new home knows little or nothing about it.

The honeymoon lasts until there’s competition over food, furniture, another animal, a person, physical handling, or access to a doorway. This time somebody gets bitten.

Let’s be clear about what that means.

If a dog closes his mouth on a person during conflict, that’s a bite. It isn’t a “nip” because the person didn’t need stitches. The severity may be low, but if dog teeth make contact with human flesh, it’s still a bite.

Minimizing the first bite is one of the most reliable ways to make room for the second.

The new owners eventually admit they’re overmatched and return the dog to the breeder, surrender it to a rescue, or dump it at a shelter. The dog is fed back through the same system with another fictional biography.

Resource guarding becomes “doesn’t like to share.” Aggression toward other dogs becomes “dog selective.” Threatening family members becomes “protective.” An attack on a child becomes a reminder that the dog “prefers an adult home.” A dog that can’t be safely handled simply “needs an experienced owner.”

Put the dog in a pink tutu, add a flower crown, take a photograph, and apparently risk has been removed.

The cycle continues until someone is seriously injured, the dog is shot during an attack, or an intended victim is forced to kill it in self-defense.

Maybe the dog finds the unicorn home occupied by someone who truly understands what it means to live with an animal capable of crushing a human skull like a grape.

The people capable of managing these dogs safely are rare, and treating them as the disposal system for every failed placement is exploitation. If one breeder repeatedly needs other people to rescue the products of that breeder’s choices, it isn’t merely an owner problem.

There’s a point beyond which experience can’t repair what’s wrong.

Management isn’t rehabilitation. Containment isn’t a cure. A dog that remains safe only because a highly capable person builds an entire life around preventing access to victims hasn’t become an ordinary pet.

He’s being successfully managed.

That distinction matters because management fails. Gates are left open, doors don’t latch, leashes break, children visit, delivery drivers show up at the door, and someone who doesn’t understand the rules reaches to pet the dog.

The more catastrophic the possible result, the less acceptable it is to place the dog with people who don’t understand the risk.

A breeder experiencing a high number of returns needs to take a hard look at what they are breeding. Stable minds and sound bodies should carry more value than size, color, or whatever look is currently profitable.

Trying to make a dog developed for combat into a universally tolerant dog-park ambassador is equally dishonest. So is selling a serious guardian as a social butterfly who’ll welcome every stranger wandering through the front door.

What remains elusive for owners who voluntarily take on a large, difficult dog is the casual life they imagined they’d have together. Their future rarely wanders far from a highly regimented existence because the dog’s capacity for harm can’t be ignored.

Experienced owners manage these dogs throughout their lives. They don’t keep waiting for the day when management will no longer be necessary.

Socialization can broaden a dog’s experience, and training can establish control, improve recovery, and prevent the rehearsal of dangerous behavior. Neither one erases ancestry or guarantees that inherited traits will never appear.

Genetics will not be denied.

Serious guardian breeds were developed for suspicion, territorial awareness, defensive aggression, courage, and the willingness to confront a threat. Traditionally bred fighting dogs were developed for different purposes, but persistence, physical power, arousal, and the willingness to remain engaged didn’t materialize out of thin air.

An individual dog may express those traits weakly, selectively, strongly, or not at all.

The owner doesn’t get to assume they’ll never appear.

These dogs can make fine companions for people who understand what they’ve chosen and who are prepared to provide lifelong structure, training, containment, and management. The people producing them have a responsibility to minimize risk, educate buyers, refuse unsuitable placements, and remain available when problems develop.

These dogs were never intended to be casual family pets.

A serious guardian isn’t a Labrador in a leather jacket. Treating one as though appearance is the only meaningful difference is unfair to the dog and dangerous for everyone else.

For the average owner, some of these dogs are simply beyond their scope. Anyone considering one should expect to need professional guidance and should arrange it before acquiring the puppy, not after the first serious incident.

If you can’t physically control the adult dog, securely contain it, manage it around children and visitors, afford competent help, and accept the possibility of lifelong restrictions, choose another dog.

If your entire plan depends on the dog never behaving like the animal it was bred to be, definitely choose another dog.

Careful, thoughtful breeders aren’t my target. Breeders who select for health and stable temperament, screen buyers, disclose risks, support owners, and accept lifetime responsibility for what they produce are doing what breeders are supposed to do.

When a dog does slip through the cracks, its producer needs to step forward. The naïve public should never become the dumping ground for someone else’s bad decisions.

Nobody wants a project.

In more than 50 years of working with dogs of every description, I’ve never had someone contact me because they were desperately searching for a large dog with a bite history.

That mythical “farm” doesn’t exist, and it never has.

Sometimes a genuinely qualified person can provide permanent containment and responsible management. Sometimes humane behavioral euthanasia is the only ethical decision remaining.

What’s never ethical is concealing the dog’s history and transferring the danger to someone who didn’t knowingly agree to assume it.
The fantasy that one more “good home” will eventually transform the dog rarely survives contact with reality. Meanwhile, shelters and rescues continue trying to force the public to absorbe the products of careless breeding, dishonest marketing, unsuitable ownership, and an industry that treats every failure as somebody else’s responsibility.

The cracks in the levee require our attention.

Links will be in the comments for folks who doubt their accuracy.

As always, if you find yourself in need of honest answers, we are only a message away.

What's cool is training fixes all of this. The first one would include shortening the tether so the dog couldn't do that...
08/03/2026

What's cool is training fixes all of this.

The first one would include shortening the tether so the dog couldn't do that, and making sure the bathing area was prepped before putting the dog in the tub, to begin with.

None of this is cute. None of this is funny.

Reading the Green Lights Damned if I can find it now, but I recently stumbled across a social media post about “green li...
07/31/2026

Reading the Green Lights

Damned if I can find it now, but I recently stumbled across a social media post about “green lights” and how to determine when it is time to move forward in training. I think the original post came from someone who trains horses, but I can’t be sure. The internet blinked before my trigger finger could hit send, save, bookmark, or whatever that particular outlet required to preserve the damn thing, and I lost it.

I really wanted to read it.

After an exhaustive and ultimately fruitless search, I began thinking about what “green lights” mean in my own training. What signals tell me that the work is evolving? How do I decide whether to push forward, remain where I am, or back up and make the task easier?

I use a very structured method of teaching. Although every dog begins at the same place, each dog determines how quickly, and sometimes in precisely what manner, we move forward. The methodology makes it possible to produce reliable results across a wide range of dogs, while the dogs themselves provide enough variability to make the process distinctly individual.

I am not talking about just teaching a skill and moving on to the next. I am interested in something much smaller: the microscopic tell that suggests a dog is ready for the skill we are working on, to become slightly more elaborate.

The more complex the skill, the more subtle that signal may become. It can be difficult to judge when to push forward, when to remain where you are, and when to slow down, or even back up. The dog is the critical source of that information.

The training system (or method, if you prefer) I use with the average adult pet dog has predetermined steps built into it. At the end of each stage, there is a practical test that helps the handler decide whether the dog is ready for the next lesson. Advancement is not based solely on completing an arbitrary number of repetitions, or a prescribed number of sessions. The dog must demonstrate an understanding of what has been taught.

But what about during the lesson?

Where is the signal that tells us whether the dog is ready for the next small step in the chain of events leading to the completed behavior?

That is where anticipation becomes important.

Anticipation as information

Every behavior exists within a sequence of events. Something happens before the behavior: the handler changes position, gathers the leash in a specific way, adjusts the collar in a specific way, manipulates the dog with hand pressure, makes a sound, faces a particular direction, or presents some combination of auditory, tactile, and visual information.

With repetition, the dog begins to recognize that sequence.
At first, the dog may respond only after receiving all of the information. Later, it may respond before the final prompt. Eventually, it may begin preparing for the behavior when it notices the first meaningful event in the sequence.

The recognition of all that information matters.

It tells us that the dog is no longer reacting only to the last, most obvious cue. The dog has begun to identify a pattern and predict what will happen next. That prediction is one of the smallest observable signs that learning is taking place.

Suppose I am teaching a dog to sit at a doorway. Early in the process, I may shorten the leash as I approach the door, stand next to the dog as I add some physical guidance and press the dog into a sitting position as we face the door together. The dog requires the entire package before sitting.

After several meaningful repetitions, I simply approach the door. Before I provide any additional help, the dog begins shifting its weight backward.

That weight shift is a green light.

It is not yet the completed behavior. It may be little more than a change in posture: the rear feet become still, the dog’s head comes up, or the hips begin to lower. But it tells me the dog has noticed the first part of the sequence and is preparing for what it believes comes next.

That is the level of observation I am after.

The green light might be:
• the head or eyes orienting toward a relevant location;
• slack appearing in the leash;
• a momentary pause in forward movement;
• a change in weight distribution
• the dog moving into position before being guided;
• a decrease in latency between the cue and the response;
• the beginning of a behavior before the full cue sequence is delivered;
• or the dog declining an available but incorrect option.

These are not incidental details. They are evidence of the dog’s expectation.

Anticipation is not the same as guessing

There is an important distinction between a dog anticipating a behavior and a dog frantically offering a flurry of behaviors in search of a reward.

A dog that cycles rapidly through sitting, lying down, pawing, spinning, barking, and staring at the handler may be guessing. The dog understands that something produces reinforcement but may not understand which piece of information identifies the correct response.

Useful anticipation is more specific.

The dog notices a particular change in the environment or in the handler and begins preparing for the behavior historically associated with that change. The prediction is connected to relevant information.

That connection is what we should test before increasing the difficulty.

Can the dog make the same prediction again?

Does it happen under approximately the same conditions?

Does the dog respond to the intended information, or to some accidental movement I did not realize I was making?

Does the behavior remain organized, or does anticipation cause the dog to become hurried, vocal, or sloppy?

A green light is not merely enthusiasm. It is evidence that the dog has identified something meaningful.

What to do when the light turns green?

When I see reliable anticipation, I may make one small change.
I might delay the verbal cue and see whether the earlier information is sufficient. I might reduce physical assistance. I might ask for a little more duration, greater precision, or a slightly more distracting environment. I might separate two cues that were previously presented together so I can determine which one the dog is actually using.

The operative word is small.

The dog’s anticipation gives me permission to challenge the dog’s understanding. It does not give me permission to leap three sessions ahead.

If the dog answers the new question successfully, the behavior becomes more sophisticated. If the dog hesitates but remains engaged, I may repeat the question or make it slightly clearer. If the behavior deteriorates, latency increases markedly, or the dog becomes confused or frustrated, I have probably asked too much.

That’s not failure. It’s useful information.

Training should operate like a conversation:

--I think you understand this. Can you do a little more?

The dog answers through its behavior:

--Yes, I recognized that.
--I noticed something, but I’m not certain what it means.
--No, I need more information.

The handler’s responsibility is to be observant enough to detect the answer.

Green, yellow, and red

It may be useful to think in terms of three signals.

A green light appears when the dog begins responding to earlier or more subtle information, repeats the response reliably, remains emotionally composed, and can tolerate a small increase in difficulty.

A yellow light appears when the dog succeeds inconsistently, requires more time, loses precision, or shows uncertainty while remaining capable of working. A yellow light usually means staying at the current level, improving the clarity of the information, or change only one small variable.

A red light appears when the dog stops responding, begins guessing indiscriminately, becomes avoidant or frantic, or can perform only after substantial help is restored. That is a signal to simplify the task, not to repeat the same unsuccessful demand with greater force.

These signals are not judgments about the dog. They are measurements of the lesson.

The roadmap and the dog

Following a predetermined roadmap is important because it tells you where you are headed. The training manual moves you from one skill to the next and helps create a functional language understood by both you and your dog. The lesson planner is the navigation app directing you through the process one turn at a time. The daily training schedule is the yardstick that shows what is improving and what still needs work.

But none of those tools can drive the car.

The roadmap describes the intended route. The dog reports the actual road conditions.

A thoughtful handler needs both. Without a roadmap, training can easily become a collection of disjointed exercises. Without close observation of the dog, the roadmap becomes a rigid schedule imposed regardless of whether learning has occurred.

Repetition alone does not tell us when to move forward.

Completion alone does not tell us what the dog understands. The more useful question is:

--What is the earliest piece of information the dog recognizes, and what does the dog do upon recognizing it?--

Watch the feet. Watch the eyes. Watch the dog’s balance, breathing, pace, posture, and orientation. Notice the instant the dog stops merely responding and begins preparing.

The dog is telling you, in advance, that it knows what is coming next.

Join our subscriber group for access to our training roadmap and other documents, and stay for the conversation.

If you are a Carroll County Maryland resident and would like help with your dog or want to increase your understanding of training, we have training options in person. Folks outside our area reap the same benefits with our online coaching.

Reach out. We're here when you're ready.

You are dropped into a foreign country, and you don’t speak the language. You are desperate to find a phone and transpor...
07/26/2026

You are dropped into a foreign country, and you don’t speak the language. You are desperate to find a phone and transportation home.

You approach a local and ask, in your language, for those two things, and she looks at you like you are crazy.

You follow along behind her as she moves away from you, as you keep talking. Now you are screaming, waving your arms and getting red-faced out of frustration. She starts to run away.

She just told you, in no uncertain terms, that she doesn’t understand a word out of your mouth, and now, she’s more than a little frightened of you.

Now you’re really stuck. You don’t know the local language. These people don’t know yours. You have no common ground.

Now you know how your dog feels.

You tell your dog to do something in a way it’s never experienced before or may not even know. The dog clearly doesn’t understand, and then it gets punished for failure or refusal.

Training a dog to perform specific behaviors starts with consistent, layered cues, building towards one entire movement; all predicated on having taught the dog that *these* cues represent *those* actions. We may overlay visible cues (presenting the visual image the same way each and every time) with auditory cues (saying the command at the same time we create the action) and physical cues (pressure on the rump to sit, for example) and then fade the use of extraneous cues as the dog becomes proficient.

We may challenge the dog's level of understanding along that process, but in ways that shouldn't overwhelm it, and being sure to moderate the degree of difficulty as stages along a route, as opposed to a singular insurmountable obstacle.

If these things aren’t done in a cohesive order, patiently and consistently, your dog is eventually going to respond like the character in our scenario and dip out of the conversation entirely.

When the owner starts yanking on the leash and saying things like “He’s so stubborn” or “She always does XYZ when I tell her to ABC!”, it’s a safe bet it isn’t the dog who has the problem.

A big feature of my work as a dog trainer is teaching people how to get their dogs to stop ‘pulling’ on the leash during walks. Usually, when the owner takes the dog out for a walk, he or she doesn’t address the scavenging, looking for odors, wildlife or other stimulants, and follows blithely along feeling miserable (because the experience is not pleasant) but determined, because the internet said dogs need ‘enrichment’. Sure, the dog needs exercise and mental stimulation, but taking in all the olfactory information about the local flora and fauna while pulling like they are training for the Iditarod has created a dog who is heavily self-reinforced for ignoring the handler, and the rules.

And then the owner complains that the dog *doesn’t listen* on walks.

It doesn’t take a rocket surgeon to deduce why. It’s the number one complaint from dog owners. Some form of it, anyway.

When the dog doesn’t do what they ‘want’, even though they never actually committed to teaching the dog that it’s not allowed to sniff every pillar and post for p*e mail, it’s a simple solution; STOP LETTING THE DOG DO *THAT* and train it to ignore distractions.

How?

Put in the effort. Stop allowing the dog to continue building a strong self-reinforcement history for pulling. The absence of consistent, effective training competes with the powerful influence the dog has had for self-reinforcement.

The dog isn’t stubborn. It’s just doing what you have allowed it to do all along. The dog became confused and concerned when you changed the rules mid-stride and started punishing it for something it couldn’t possibly have known.

When you tell the owner(s) that, they tend to want to disagree, because their collective experience is seen through the lens of “My LAST dog” or what they have read on the internet.

I experience it every day. I spent all weekend with many people who suffer from some form of this malady, whether it’s pulling on the leash, bolting through doorways, or in one case, allowing their dog to threaten guests as they enter the door.

Put a leash on that menace and make it stop. That’s not a difficult decision to make.

When I hear from these same folks “But I don’t know what to do”, I know that’s not entirely true. They usually don’t want to make the effort because it’s either too inconvenient for them to have to change their own behavior to improve their dog’s, or they don’t think the problem is really *that bad*, since they have lived with it for so long. My perennial fave is still the contradictory information from the internet- the attention machine known as social media, thick with opinions and little in the way of facts, which preys on naivete and appeals to emotion through social pressure.

Love that. Just love it.

These are all choices, but just remember, your dog is a product of your instruction. Your dog’s failures aren’t stubbornness, they are because you have never crossed that bridge of communication in a way that your dog can understand.

If you don't know *how*, we can certainly teach you. My subscribers group has everything you need to get the job done, whether your dog is a puppy who needs the Right Start in life, a jevenile delinquent starting to make some bad decisions, or an adult dog with established behavior histories, the singular feature that stands between where you are now and where you want to be, is you.

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