10/18/2023
National Champion in Bouldering and in Lead!
Melina, this week you put your health decisions and long term training strategy to the test, and came away triumphant on every level. Bravo! I hope you savor this moment and sink deeply into the feelings of both victory and vindication.
First and foremost, I am beyond proud of Melina. She’s the phoenix who arose in a triumphant comeback last week at Nationals after a bleak start to 2023, where she started from the bottom (literally unable to put any weight on her foot post-surgery, let alone climb), developing a healthy relationship to food, to training, and to her own sense of self. It’s been astounding to witness the changes over the last year.
She proved she could succeed after graduating from college AND do it in a healthy & sustainable way. I hope the young climbers out there who dream of the Nationals podium someday can understand that winning and being at a healthy weight are not mutually exclusive. Starvation to be “lighter” should never be part of the equation.
If you don’t know Melina’s story, here’s the link to read it in her own words (https://www.instagram.com/p/CkqyGj8vv5H/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== ), but basically it’s a raw, vulnerable admission to a hidden eating disorder, which coupled with an obsessive training regime, had resulted in a broken foot, likely due to compromised bone density.
This is a sport that requires athletes to haul themselves up walls; it leads to the false belief that the lighter you are, the easier it is to climb. While that can be true to an extent, like any other highly competitive sport, it leads to extremes. In the world of climbing this is a dirty and dark secret that no one wants to acknowledge, and as we head into the Olympic season, the top organizations want to focus on short term success and maintaining the status quo. I applaud the brave women and men who are exposing this serious problem by posting on social media and talking openly about it. I never imagined that Melina would be part of this narrative, but I could not be more proud and impressed with her decision to share her challenge publicly and to seek help from medical professionals.