Grothaus K9 Working German Shepherds

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Here at Grothaus German Shepherds, we strive to breed and produce true working line German Shepherds with excellent health, solid temperament, strong nerves, and balanced drives… German Shepherds that WORK on the field, on the street, and in the house.

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03/27/2026

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Crate and Rotate: Why Dogs That Can’t Live Together Doesn’t Make You a Bad Owner

Did you know that having dogs in the same household that can’t be together doesn’t make you a bad dog owner?

The percentage of American households that include a dog as a family pet has steadily increased over the past few decades. Along with that rise, the number of multi-dog households has grown as well.

Anyone who has owned more than one dog can tell you that adding a second dog changes the household dynamic in ways you may not expect. Common sense might suggest that two dogs simply mean twice the food, twice the leashes, twice the grooming, and twice the cuddles. In reality, the relationship between multiple dogs can introduce challenges that require far more effort, energy, and emotional bandwidth than most owners anticipate.

If you have ever experienced a serious fight between dogs in your home, you know how traumatic it can be for both the dogs and the people involved. Even when no major injuries occur, the emotional impact can permanently change the relationship between those dogs. In rare cases, dogs may fight once and return to normal after a short separation—but this is not the norm. Once a fight has occurred, the likelihood of future conflict increases significantly.

Certain factors can make conflict between household dogs more likely, including:
-Strong or dominant temperaments
-Fear-based aggression
-High prey drive
-High defense drive
-Over-arousal or overstimulation
-Resource guarding
-Dog reactivity
-Lack of structure or routine
-Intact males or females

When one or more of these predictors exist in the same household, structure, training, and management become essential. If a fight does occur, these same factors can greatly increase the chances of future incidents.

So what is the solution?

Crate and Rotate

“Crate and rotate” is a management system used in multi-dog households where certain dogs are never allowed to physically interact. Instead, dogs take turns being out while the others are crated or confined.

This routine may sound extreme to people who have never needed it, but in reality it is a simple, safe, and highly effective way to maintain peace in a household where not every dog can coexist freely. Countless experienced dog owners, trainers, and breeders rely on crate-and-rotate systems every day to protect the safety and well-being of their dogs.

Intra-household aggression is the most common reason for crate and rotate, but it is far from the only one.

Managing Intact Dogs

Crate and rotate is often necessary when living with intact males and females.

Female dogs are only fertile during certain parts of their heat cycle, but those signs are not always obvious to owners. Preventing unwanted litters requires careful management, and many experienced handlers simply never allow intact males and females to be unsupervised together, regardless of where the female is in her cycle.

A crate-and-rotate routine removes the guesswork and ensures accidents don’t happen.

Raising a Puppy in a Multi-Dog Home

Bringing a young puppy into an established pack can be challenging. Crates are an essential tool for potty training, teaching household manners, and preventing destructive behavior.

They also protect older dogs from being overwhelmed by a young, pushy puppy. It is the owner’s responsibility to maintain boundaries between dogs. Puppies should not be allowed to climb on, harass, or bite older dogs simply because they are young. They should learn obedience and impulse control before being given full freedom with the rest of the household.

Using a crate-and-rotate schedule makes this process far easier and safer for everyone.

Illness or Injury

When a dog is sick or injured, confinement is often necessary for recovery.

Contagious illnesses can spread quickly between dogs through shared bowls, toys, and direct contact. Separating dogs helps prevent the entire household from getting sick.

Injuries and post-surgical recovery present another situation where crate rest is critical. Veterinarians often recommend strict confinement because excitement or rough play can make an injury worse. A crate-and-rotate routine allows one dog to rest while the others continue their normal activities.

Sometimes It’s Just Practical

Not every crate-and-rotate situation is caused by aggression or risk. Sometimes it simply makes life easier.

In my own home, I have a dog who is social, obedient, and generally gets along with everyone. There is no major reason she can’t be out with the rest of the pack.

But she is a lot of dog. She is a high-drive, powerful Dutch Shepherd who loves to play with my 13-year-old German Shepherd. When she is outside with the group, her focus on play can keep the other dogs from doing what they need to do—like going to the bathroom or settling down.

So most of the time, she goes out separately first. After everyone has done what they need to do, they can all be together again.

Sometimes the decision to crate and rotate isn’t about safety at all. It’s about maintaining structure, routine, and control in a busy multi-dog household.

Conclusion

Crate and rotate is not a failure. It is not poor ownership.

It is responsible management.

In my own household, we use crate and rotate for several reasons. I have dogs with a history of aggression toward each other, intact dogs that must be managed, and situations where dogs need rest after injury or illness. Just as importantly, crates allow us to maintain a structured environment that keeps every dog safe, stable, and successful.

Every dog is an individual, and every household has its own dynamics.

Doing what is best for the dogs you have—even when it requires extra effort—is the mark of a dedicated owner, not a bad one.

07/29/2025

Teaching, Training, and Proofing Tuesday:
Working the Arc to Find the Truth

Odor doesn’t lie, but it rarely tells the whole story up front.

TEACHING Phase – The Scent Picture is Real
You’ve set an elevated hide on a post, a shelf, or a structure 4–5 feet high. Airflow carries the odor away, wrapping it across the environment in a visible arc of behavior as your dog works the periphery.

We call this the "Odor Rainbow." Like the reading rainbow except for dogs!

It’s not an unproductive behavior, it’s exactly what odor is doing.

Whether you meant to or not, you’re teaching the dog that odor may first appear far from source, but if they stay in the game, they can find their way back to it. They may encounter it on either side of the hide, but not underneath.

TRAINING Phase – Build Odor Logic, Not Just Sourcing
This is the phase where dogs learn to triangulate:

- Let them explore the arc.
- Don’t redirect them too early.
- Reinforce the process, not just the outcome.
- Use patterns that reward re-approach, elevation, and persistence.

*** The dog that finds odor easily doesn’t always understand it.
The dog that works for it learns how it behaves. ***

Let them work the scent picture. Let them struggle a little. Let them learn how scent behaves in space.

PROOFING Phase – Arc ≠ Source
Now it’s time to increase challenge:
- Add competing objects that catch and hold odor
- Introduce HVAC, open air, or elevation variables
- Reward only at source, don’t reinforce arc sniffing

This is where they stop guessing and start solving.
They learn to step off the rainbow and go looking for the pot of gold.

Handler Awareness:
- Don’t interrupt arc behavior, observe and support it
- Look for that "re-entry moment" when the dog shifts from detection to decision
- Recognize the difference between busy and problem-solving

Be the handler that gives them space to figure it out, because confidence is built by solving hard things independently.

Odor understanding isn’t just about nose-on-source. It’s about understanding where odor starts and where it ends.

Let them follow the arc. Then teach them to find the truth.










07/29/2025

The Problem: Odor Isn't Always Where You Think It Should Be
In elevated hide scenarios with air movement, dogs often:

Work "the arc" of pooled odor downwind or laterally

Check objects with odor on them but not coming from them

Appear to be in odor for a long time without sourcing

This isn't failure, it's actually correct behavior if the dog is working scent logically.

->How Dogs Learn to Triangulate
Experience with Drift = Pattern Recognition
Dogs learn over time that odor at elevation doesn't always present from below. They learn it can drift, drop, and wrap depending on:
- Airflow
- Thermals or HVAC
- Items such as furniture, Obstructions, and walls
- Type of floor surface

Repeated exposure to drifting and arcing (Odor Rainbows as Caroline Kobe Oldham calls them) scent cones helps dogs start using movement and sampling to predict the source point.

They go from “it smells strong here but not there” to “I’ve smelled this pattern before, it’s probably up high over there.” They bracket to attack it.

->THE KEY: Handler Support Without Interference
Handlers play a key role:
- Don't crowd or redirect during the arc phase
- Let the dog map the odor field
- Encourage re-engagement with the area after a pass, especially when they’ve checked multiple drift points or angles without success
- Picking a pattern and staying committed to working that versus working the dog

*** A well-timed pause or reposition at a clean angle can help without stealing the dog's problem. Support them solving it, don't just solve it for them. ***

-> Training Progression: Build the Triangulation Skill
Use a hide that forms an "Odor Rainbow" (e.g., elevated on a post or shelf with airflow behind it). Then:

Phase 1 – Teaching the Drift Picture
- Let the dog explore the arc freely
- Observe and watch as they move toward the origin of odor
- Use accessible elevated hides first (4’ or so) with minimal cross-contamination

Phase 2 – Reward Only for Sourcing
- Reward only at the true source (not at the odor “cloud” or arc)
- Use known environmental anchors/bumpers (walls, pillars) to help guide their odor mapping
- Let them fail and re-approach, this builds the odor understanding and anticipation (be mindful of frustration)

Phase 3 – Proofing with Complexity
- Add competing objects and surfaces that catch odor
- Hides at various elevations and locations where odor collects in misleading ways
- Use environmental setups where working back is the only route to source

-> Dogs Learn Through Pattern Exposure, Not Repetition
Let the dog build their own database of odor behavior. The more they encounter odor arcs, scent curtains, lofted cones, and downward drifts, the more confidently they’ll:
- Work the arc
- Pause
- Reorient
- Climb the scent ladder back to source

Your Training Mantra:
Let them learn the air flow. Let them learn the wall. Let them learn the climb.

You can try and teach triangulation. The best approach is to build the conditions where the dog discovers it themselves.

This post was inspired by my friend Gary Strickland. Hopefully I did it justice.

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03/05/2025

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Dog People 🐕🐕🐕🐕🐕♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️

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10/18/2024

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From my book, Dog People.

07/17/2024

It’s hard to express how happy we are with how many people are on board with the conceot of rapid cooling for canine heat injury. 12 years ago when we published our systematic review “Rethinling Heat injury in the SOF (Special Operations Forces) Canine” where we concluded there was no scientific evidence to support that slow cooling was better than rapid cooling, and that there was no scientific evidence that cold or ice water cooling was detrimental to chances of survival, we were attacked with an angry mob of villagers with pitchforks and torches (okay, not really, but that’s what it felt like. ) After more research by multiple universities and private entities, now in the working dog world rapid cooling is accepted and practiced as the standard. It’s saving dog’s lives! Thanks to all of the working dog professionals who did the follow-on research that was needed in this topic. More research is still needed, but we’re off to a good start.

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