11/18/2025
I just saw some really nasty bits, tack, etc on facebook that were being discussed and I actually had to agree that it was inappropriate, so I'm getting on my bandwagon again.
All of these jumps @ Country Haven's Cross Country Course, Woodstown NJ (and other jumps elsewhere) can ALL BE JUMPED AT A VERY REASONABLE PACE WITH HORSES WITH RELAXED BACKS AND RELAXED NECKS and NOT FIGHTING WITH THE BITS!...actually in snaffle bits, preferably double jointed with super light fingertip aids with no pulling!
Why are most riders today so afraid to let the horse carry himself and be allowed to use his body to his best advantage and ride with fingertip control rather than fighting with the horse via the reins???????? You don't even need to hold a horse when you gallop. Follow his neck motion and give him a super light feel, almost no rein.
I see more and more unnecessary tack on the horses. When is this stuff going to be considered "not in the best welfare of the horses"?
How many of you look at videos of yourself and your horse and see the open mouths, or the tied shut ones, the heads up in the air with the stiff hollow backs, or the horse all bottled up with his chin back on his chest, or the horse's racing 90 miles an hour at the jump with various types of improperly fitted gadgets, restricting the horse's ability to carry you and jump for you successfully? How many have knockdowns, runouts and refusals on a regular basis? None of that has to be if riders would be willing to try a different method of riding. We hardly EVER had runouts, refusals, etc. It truly was a rarity
A while back, I said that I was going to tell you about a variety of horses that did those things and came out of the problems when the rider approached their riding differently.
So here is another horse's success story. I was asked to ride and sell this horse. I was told it needed a martingale, a pizza cutter bit (which I had never even heard of) because it had been stopping and rearing up in the jumper ring. Plus it also needed spurs and a crop.
I brought up the fact that usually either horses were a bit slow or a bit strong but not usually both. I like to start out with less, not more so I started out with a rubber snaffle bit, no martingale. (I always schooled with small Prince of Wales spurs and a bat, but again rarely ever had to use them), and I didn't have to use them on this guy either. He was a big 16.3 hd, 1/4 horse/TB cross with a heart of gold.
It was winter time and I started him out in the ring but promptly moved him outside where I could ride him in the orchards, open fields, dirt roads, etc. and he was a dream. When his flat work is good, the jump comes as a gift.
It took me no time at all, he was so happy to be able to relax and enjoy his ride.
Horses, (believe it or not) respond automatically to weight/seat and leg aids to change pace (faster or slower), turn, do laterals, stop or whatever.
If you have had your horse looking at the stars or the ground with a super tight hold all the time, it may take them a bit longer, to even chance trying to do anything else because they have lost confidence in riders because they were never allowed to carry themselves as they do in a field without a rider. A good way to check whether you are interfering with their balance is to compare your horse's carriage when he's trotting and cantering around the field on his own versus his carriage when you're on him.
I went to show the horse to a potential buyer whose position was not bad. I set up a small jump to pop over first and right before the jump, the horse slammed the brakes on, stopping so fast that he actually left the ground slightly with his front feet and he just stood there, looking tense and scared.
I asked the rider what happened. She said that she just gave him " a little half halt". I said honey, that was 10 times more rein aid than I ever used on him to even stop him quickly from a full gallop.
We went over the fingertip control method and he got his head back on straight and the fear left his eyes and they went on and he jumped beautifully when she left him alone and let him pick his takeoff spots and adjust his stride between fences, and rode him on an extremely light to almost no rein. I suggest 100% freedom from 2 -3 strides before a fence til 2-3 strides after he lands from the fence. When you do that, you don't see horse takeoffs being so close to the jump that he has to climb up one side and down the other or big huge scary leaps from way back. They figure it out and do it much better than when we try to figure it out..... if we let them.
I see numerous jumping on facebook that I believe the riders could pass a lie detector test, thinking they ARE doing a light rein, but a lot of horses are so light in the mouth that they won't even try to use themselves when the riders' hands restrict them, so they don't lean on the rider's hands, they just don't try to reach with each stride and they stay rigid with the hands. See if you can let your horse walk, trot ,canter and gallop on a totally loose rein. Then slow his gallop with a slight shift back in your center of gravity and no rein and stop him with your seat aid. If you can do that, you're on your way to learning to communicate through your seat and legs without the need for your reins. If you can't, try learning to let the horse carry himself by communicating with your body, without the use of your reins.
Everyone seems to think it is so hard to do, but I've had kids learn to do it and their comments are, "this is so easy". Yes you have to learn how to do it, but when you do, it makes everything that you do with your horse, so easy.
Wish more instructors would try to change, then the system would spread more quickly and there would be a lot more happy horses (and riders). It's not a new system. It's what we were taught 50 years ago. What happened???
At any rate, our course is open to try it on, (if you don't want anyone else seeing you try it until you perfect it more). Always go back to lower heights when you start to let your horse absorb the changes you are making. Your method has become a habit to him just as it has become a habit to you. Habits take some time to change, but the sooner the better! It works. Try it. And if you're really stuck on something, take a lesson on it. Our place is a low key, private farm where there are not others around watching you learn. Then go surprise your friends.
For questions, info, or to schedule call Earlen Haven @ 856-769-1916 to learn to let your horse enjoy their ride more. Your horses will thank you for it.
P.S. I will still donate 15-20 min of watching your video over the phone with you and pointing out things that can help. At no charge. No one is forcing you to do it, but maybe it would give you a glimpse of better ways to communicate with your horse. Think about it and maybe call to schedule.
Learn to let your horse enjoy his ride!
