Fox & Phids

Fox & Phids Breeder & Keeper of Regal jumping spiders since 2016. Please note I am not an actual pet store and the address listed on my page is not my address.

Please message me for appointments.

5 babies left!!So apparently, I added a message button to my message and now anybody that wants to see the photos it kee...
05/26/2026

5 babies left!!So apparently, I added a message button to my message and now anybody that wants to see the photos it keeps popping up a message so I’m reposting

Deposit is $20
Venmo:
Paypal: message me for invoice
Cashapp:
Apple pay & zelle message me for phone number.

Pick up by appointment only 🙂

 All the babies are email regal, jumping Spiders juvenile. Come in an 8 ounce enclosure.

Molting & hammock behavior and Feeding/refusing foodA lot of people assume something is wrong because their spider stays...
05/22/2026

Molting & hammock behavior and Feeding/refusing food

A lot of people assume something is wrong because their spider stays tucked away all day or suddenly stops eating, but honestly, most of the time that’s completely normal spider behavior.

Unlike snakes or reptiles that simply shed skin, jumping spiders molt because they physically need to climb out of their old exoskeleton in order to grow. As they prepare to molt, fluid builds inside the body and helps separate the old exoskeleton from the new one underneath. This process is extremely vulnerable and takes a tremendous amount of energy. A bad molt can absolutely be fatal, which is why minimizing stress during this time is so important.

Before adulthood, your spider will molt multiple times throughout its life. Once they become adults, they will no longer molt again.

One thing that can get confusing is instar terminology. Scientifically, many arachnologists consider a freshly hatched spider to already be first instar, with each molt moving them into the next instar stage. However, within the hobby itself, many breeders and keepers start counting instars AFTER the first molt instead. That’s why you may see the exact same spider labeled differently depending on who you ask.

At the end of the day, “instar” simply refers to the stage between molts rather than a spider’s age in months.

This is also why it can be difficult to answer questions like:
“How old is my spider?”
“How many molts does it have left?”
“How long will it live?”

There really is no exact science to it because every spider develops differently depending on feeding frequency, temperature, genetics, growth speed, and overall care.

Some spiders molt faster than others, and overfeeding can actually speed up the molting process, causing them to mature more quickly and potentially shortening their overall lifespan.

The same goes for lifespan itself. While many jumping spiders may live around 18 to 24 months AFTER reaching adulthood, some may live less and some may live longer depending on care, feeding habits, genetics, stress levels, and how quickly they developed throughout life.

There are usually several signs that a molt is approaching:
• Refusing food
• Staying tucked away more often
• A thicker hammock
• A very round or fat abdomen despite not eating recently
• Looking dull or less vibrant
• Less activity overall
• Bum wiggles or subtle body movements while inside the hammock
• Spending days inside the hammock without coming out

One thing I always say…
“If tucked away, let them stay.”

If your spider is inside their hammock, under NO circumstance should you force them out with a paintbrush, poke the web, repeatedly disturb them, or try to force handle them. Only handle your spider when they are already out and actively exploring on their own terms.

A lot of people worry because their spider spends most of its time in the hammock, but honestly, that is very normal jumping spider behavior.

In the wild, jumping spiders actually prefer tiny hidden micro environments where they feel secure. You usually do NOT see them constantly roaming around unless they are hunting food or, in the case of males, searching for a mate.

Most of the time they are tucked away in little safe places like patio furniture, mailboxes, folded leaves, corners, bark crevices, and tiny sheltered spaces. That little hammock is their safe place.

Some jumping spiders are naturally more adventurous than others, but many are perfectly happy lounging in their hammock most of the day and taking occasional little walks around the enclosure. You may even notice them bending or stretching their body into strange little spider yoga poses to look around better 😂 Completely normal. They are incredibly visual and VERY nosy little creatures.

One of the easiest ways to tell the difference between normal relaxing behavior and premolt behavior is the hammock itself.

When your spider is simply relaxing:
• The hammock often stays open
• You can usually still see them inside
• Little legs may hang out of the entrance
• They casually peek out throughout the day
• They may come and go periodically

When a molt is approaching:
• The hammock becomes much thicker
• The entrance often gets sealed shut
• They position themselves deeper in the center
• They remain very still for long periods
• They may not come out at all for days

That sealed hammock helps maintain the micro environment and humidity they need to molt safely.

If your spider has disappeared into a thick hammock and has not come out for several days, your safest option is usually to:
• Leave them alone
• Maintain proper humidity
• Lightly mist daily if appropriate for the species
• Avoid handling
• Stop offering food constantly

This process can take a couple days or sometimes over a week depending on the spider.

Now let’s talk about feeding because this is where most people panic 😂

Humans associate food with comfort and health, so when an animal stops eating our first instinct is:
“OMG THEY’RE STARVING.”

Trust me… your spider is probably fine.

Another thing that I say is…
“If not hungry today don’t panic. It’s OK.”

A healthy jumping spider generally will NOT starve itself to death. Refusing food is very often a completely normal part of premolt  or they are just simply not hungry.

Spiders do NOT need to eat every single day and honestly I generally do NOT recommend offering food daily.

Some spiders are opportunistic eaters and will absolutely take food constantly if offered, but overfeeding can:
• Speed up molting
• Shorten lifespan
• Cause obesity
• Create a dangerously heavy abdomen
• Increase injury risk if they fall

A very overfed spider can even risk abdomen injury or separation if the abdomen becomes excessively heavy.  Typically you see over eating behavior more with females than males.

My general personal rule of thumb:
• Juveniles roughly every 3 days
• Adults roughly every 4 to 5 days

You also want to look at abdomen size, not just the calendar.

For regals especially, if the TOP line of the abdomen sits noticeably higher than the top of the head, your spider probably does NOT need food yet and may need time to digest and “deflate” a little first 😂

There are lots of great feeding charts online, but abdomen size is usually a much better indicator than strict schedules alone.

If your spider is:
• Walking around the enclosure
• Exploring
• Actively watching movement
• Sitting in an open hammock entrance.

…and their bum isnt a round potato, 🥔 then yes, you can absolutely try offering food.

But if your spider:
• Is completely tucked away
• Has a thick sealed hammock
• Is sitting deep in the center
• Has been hiding for several days

…you probably want to hold off on offering feeders for now.

“If walking about, food can come out.” 😂

“If the door is closed and they’re tucked in tight, waiting a bit is probably right.”

One mistake a lot of people make is:
• Constantly offering food
• Using tongs repeatedly
• Putting feeders directly into the hammock
• Disturbing the spider every day to check
• Panic feeding because they skipped one meal

Trust me, most of us have done this at some point 😭

But honestly, the best thing you can do is trust the spider and let nature do its thing.

Now, if your spider is refusing food for a long time while remaining OUTSIDE the hammock constantly, hanging out low in the enclosure, looking thin, weak, lethargic, curling oddly, or losing grip and coordination, that becomes a completely different discussion and may indicate illness, dehydration, injury, or old age rather than premolt.

But in most cases?
A tucked away spider is simply being a spider 🕷️

A great question came up yesterday from a customer asking about spraying enclosures and humidity, and she mentioned that...
05/09/2026

A great question came up yesterday from a customer asking about spraying enclosures and humidity, and she mentioned that she uses a hydrometer to monitor humidity levels. Whenever these conversations come up and the information is fresh in my brain, I like to make a post about it because I know how overwhelming it can feel when you’re a newer keeper trying to absorb information online. There are SO many different opinions and methods out there that it can get confusing really fast.

One thing I see a lot of focus on is keeping humidity high at all times, but I think sometimes people accidentally overdo it because they become too focused on chasing a specific humidity % instead of looking at the enclosure as a whole.

You also have to remember that jumping spiders are invertebrates, not reptiles, and their humidity needs are not exactly the same.

With reptiles that require high humidity, keeping them too dry can cause dehydration issues and incomplete sheds because reptiles rely heavily on proper moisture levels to help loosen and remove old skin during shedding. On the flip side, reptiles that require drier conditions can develop respiratory infections or bacterial issues if they are kept too wet for prolonged periods of time.

Jumping spiders are a little different.

They still need access to moisture and hydration but don’t need it wet all the time. it’s usually more about balance than trying to maintain a constantly high humidity environment 24/7.

Think about it like this, even in places where jumping spiders naturally live, it does not rain every single day. There are dry periods, airflow, evaporation, and constantly changing environmental conditions.

When it comes to humidity, there’s a sweet spot.

Personally, I prefer moderate humidity with opportunities for the enclosure to dry out naturally between mistings. For my own spiders, I spray every other day because I like allowing airflow and dry out time in between. And there are times when I go to spray that second day if it’s still wet in there, I will wait another day. 

The reason this matters is because constantly wet enclosures can create a swampy little micro environment where mold and bacteria thrive.

But a lot of this depends on the type of decor you use inside the enclosure.

For example:
Cork bark is generally pretty mold resistant
Reptile-safe moss is usually lower risk as well
Plastic plants and sealed decor don’t absorb moisture the same way porous materials do

But porous woods, absorbent decor, substrate, and natural materials can hold onto moisture much longer. If they never get a chance to dry out properly, mold becomes much more likely over time.

Another thing people don’t always think about is feeder remains.

Your spider is eating bugs, and tiny pieces of dead feeders or carcasses can sometimes get left behind in the enclosure. In a constantly damp setup, those leftovers can mold surprisingly fast.

That’s why I personally think moderate humidity with good airflow is healthier than constantly trying to maintain a super humid environment.

A good general rule:
Misting one side every other day = great
Constantly soaked walls, dripping decor, and nonstop condensation = probably too much

You want your spider to have access to water droplets to drink from while still allowing the enclosure to breathe and dry out naturally between sprays.

Another thing I want to mention is that you do not need a water bowl.
Jumping spiders drink from droplets left behind after misting, which is why spraying the enclosure works so well. water bowls are unnecessary for most setups.
The same goes for a lot of the extra humidity products out there like humidity balls, constant moisture pods, or other supplemental humidity sources.

The only time I would ever recommend putting a water bowl in there or an external humidity source is if you’re going away for a period of time and won’t be there to mist the enclosure yourself.

Now, with that being said, there are times where slightly increasing humidity can absolutely be helpful especially during molts. I do lightly spray daily during premolt or molting periods to help maintain hydration as that’s perfectly reasonable as long as the enclosure still has airflow and is not becoming swampy or stagnant. So if I see one of my Spiders is locked in their Web, they have closed the door of that web and it looks like they’re about to molt I will start spraying daily. But even if I don’t spray daily, every other day is still fine. 

Signs your enclosure may be staying too wet:
Constant condensation or foggy walls
Musty smell
Visible mold
Damp substrate that never dries
Decor that feels wet all the time

At the end of the day, you do not need to obsess over chasing a perfect exact humidity percentage every hour of the day. Stable conditions, access to water droplets, airflow, and allowing natural drying periods are usually far more healthy and less stressful for you than chasing a specific %.

So yeah, just spray the enclosure once every other day increase it when your spider is molting and you’re good to go.

 I also wanna mention that when I am talking about jumping spiders I’m talking about regal jumping spiders. There are other species that require higher humidity so I’m specifically talking about regal jumping Spiders.

hopefully this helps.

One of the biggest questions I get is about temperatures for jumping spiders, so I thought it might be helpful to talk a...
05/09/2026

One of the biggest questions I get is about temperatures for jumping spiders, so I thought it might be helpful to talk about it a little more in depth because I know this causes a LOT of anxiety for newer keepers. 🕷️
Personally, I keep my spider room around 75–80°F because I have reptiles in my office and also use a Dyson heater since I like my room warm anyway. That temperature range has worked really well for me.

However, I know a lot of people keep their homes much cooler, especially at night or during colder months, and one of the most common questions I get asked is:

“My house is around 66–68°F… is my spider going to be okay?”

The short answer is usually yes; your spider is probably not in immediate danger, so don’t panic. A jumping spider is not likely to suddenly die overnight because your room dipped into the upper 60s. However, those temperatures are still colder than ideal long term, so you do want to work on gradually bringing temperatures up into a better range if possible.

One of the biggest misconceptions I see is people thinking a jumping spider is automatically safer being too warm than slightly too cool. In reality, it’s the opposite. A spider that is slightly chilly will usually just become slower and less active. A spider that overheats can decline very quickly.

Most commonly kept jumping spiders generally do best somewhere around 72–80°F, with many keepers finding the sweet spot around 75–80°F.

When spiders get too cold, you may notice:
Less activity
Slower movement
Reduced appetite
Spending more time tucked away in their hammock
Slower growth

What’s important to understand is that cooler temperatures usually slow them down gradually. They do not typically just drop dead because your house dipped into the upper 60s overnight.

Overheating is what becomes dangerous much faster.

When a jumping spider gets too hot, heat stress can happen very quickly, especially in small enclosures that trap heat. Tiny acrylic or glass enclosures heat up WAY faster than people realize. A setup that feels slightly warm to us can become dangerously hot for them.

Signs an enclosure may be too hot:
Constantly hanging near ventilation holes
Avoiding parts of the enclosure entirely
Frantic pacing or restless behavior
Refusing food
Sudden lethargy or curling

Unfortunately, overheating absolutely can kill a jumping spider.

This is why I strongly caution people against aggressive heating methods.

One of the biggest things I do NOT recommend is placing a heat mat underneath the enclosure.

Jumping spiders naturally climb upward, and heat rises. Bottom heating can create dangerously uneven temperatures and can overheat substrate or the lower part of the enclosure very quickly. If the enclosure becomes overheated, the spider may continue climbing upward searching for relief without actually escaping the heat source.

If your house runs cool and you truly need supplemental heat, there are safer ways to do it.

1) Plant seedling heat mats
These are usually gentler than reptile heat mats. Place them BEHIND the enclosure instead of underneath it and keep them about 2–3 inches away from the enclosure rather than pressed directly against it. This helps create more gradual ambient warmth instead of concentrated heat buildup.

2) Clip-on turtle or reptile lamps
These can work well if they are kept about 5–8 inches away from the enclosure. Never place them directly on top of a small acrylic enclosure because tiny enclosures heat up extremely quickly.

3) LED strip lights, book lights, or low wattage bulbs
These can slightly raise ambient temperatures in shelving setups or smaller spaces. They should not be relied on as a primary heat source, but they absolutely can help warm the surrounding area a few degrees.

4) Warm the room instead of directly heating the enclosure
Honestly, this is one of my favorite options overall. I personally use a Dyson heater because it keeps the room temperature stable without blasting direct heat onto the spiders. I know they’re expensive, but I personally think they’re worth it. In general, I prefer safer room heating methods over aggressively heating tiny enclosures whenever possible.

5) Use existing ambient heat by placing them near a computer setup, television, or gaming system can sometimes provide gentle supplemental warmth.

I also HIGHLY recommend getting a thermal temperature gun.

This is important because room temperature and enclosure temperature are NOT always the same thing. The inside wall of an enclosure near a heat source can become significantly hotter than the room itself, and with small enclosures, even a few degrees can make a big difference.

One more important thing:
Do NOT place jumping spider enclosures in direct sunlight in or outside of your house to warm them.

Even if the room itself or outside feels comfortable to you, direct sun through acrylic or glass can turn an enclosure into a tiny greenhouse extremely fast. Enclosures can overheat before you even realize there’s a problem. It’s like when little kids took a magnifying glass to an ant.

At the end of the day, stable and gentle is always better than extreme. Most jumping spiders do very well in normal household temperatures as long as they are not being overheated. A slightly cool spider is usually just a slower spider. An overheated spider can become critically sick very quickly.

Hopefully this helps some newer keepers stress a little less about temperatures while also understanding the importance of heating safely.

I feel like I always have a plan and then that plan changes bc of life. 😩 so my plan was to post pictures of all the bab...
05/03/2026

I feel like I always have a plan and then that plan changes bc of life. 😩 so my plan was to post pictures of all the baby’s to let everyone see who’s available and then we’ll life happened. My puppy was spayed and had some complications so we are on a crazy med regiment. I promise when I get a chance I will post the pictures soon. Just didn’t want anyone to think I forgot to do it or was purposely procrastinating. Sorry yall!

04/02/2026

my life 🤣😩

03/31/2026

Hey everyone 🖤

I’ve been breeding jumping spiders for quite a while now, and I’m so grateful for all of you who have supported me, followed along, or welcomed one of my little babies into your home.

I realized recently that while I’ve connected with so many amazing people, I don’t have many reviews to reflect that. And trust me I get it, I’m not someone who usually remembers to leave reviews either 😅

That said, I truly put my heart into what I do. I’m always available for my customers, not just during the process but for the entire life of your spider, whether you have questions, need guidance, or just want to share updates.

If you’ve adopted a spider from me and had a good experience, I would be so grateful if you could take a few minutes to leave a review. It really helps support what I do and means more than you know 🕷️❤️

And if I’ve ever helped you at 11pm with a spider question… I feel like I’ve earned at least one sentence 😂😂🤣

03/26/2026

I am not a bumblebee. And the one hovering in front of your face right now cannot sting you.

You see me every spring. A large black bee hovering near your deck, your porch railing, your fence post. Buzzing loudly. Flying directly at you. Holding position inches from your face as if sizing you up.

I'm an Eastern Carpenter Bee. And here's what you need to know — the one hovering in your face is the male. Males are territorial and confrontational. Males also have no stinger. The aggressive one is the harmless one.

The female has a stinger but almost never uses it. She's the one ignoring you — flying calmly to the hole she drilled in the fascia board, disappearing inside, and working. You'd have to grab her and squeeze to provoke a sting. She has a job to do and you're not part of it.

We look similar to bumblebees — large, black, buzzing. But flip me over. My abdomen is shiny, smooth, and black. A bumblebee's abdomen is fuzzy and often yellow-banded. Shiny belly means carpenter bee. Fuzzy belly means bumblebee.

Yes, I drill holes. Perfectly round, bored into untreated softwood. Each hole goes in about an inch, then turns ninety degrees and runs along the grain for several inches. Inside that tunnel, the female lays eggs in individual cells separated by walls of chewed wood pulp.

The structural damage from carpenter bee tunnels is almost always cosmetic. It takes decades of continuous nesting in the same board to cause any structural concern. The staining below the hole — sawdust and waste — is the real complaint. It's unsightly. It's not dangerous.

I'm a pollinator. A significant one. Carpenter bees are buzz pollinators — we vibrate our flight muscles at a frequency that shakes pollen loose from flowers that honeybees can't effectively pollinate. Tomatoes, blueberries, and eggplant depend on buzz pollination. Without carpenter bees, your garden produces less.

🐝 How to coexist:

- The male hovering in your face is bluffing. Walk through him. He'll follow for a second and give up. He has no stinger and no way to hurt you

- Paint or stain any exposed untreated wood you want to protect — carpenter bees strongly avoid finished surfaces. This is the simplest and most effective prevention

- If you want to redirect them, drill half-inch holes about four inches deep into an untreated softwood block and mount it in a sunny spot near the area they're drilling. They'll often choose the pre-made holes over your fascia board

- The shiny black bee visiting your tomato blossoms and vibrating on each flower is doing work that honeybees can't. Buzz pollination is the reason those flowers set fruit

- Don't spray or kill them at the holes. One carpenter bee pollinates more tomato and blueberry flowers per visit than several honeybees. The cosmetic damage to your deck is the trade-off for a measurably more productive garden

The bee in your face is showing off. He's defending a territory he can't actually fight for 🌿

03/26/2026

They call us ugly.
They call us pests.
They say we don't belong.
But we were here first.
We raise our babies.
We keep ecosystems balanced.
We're just trying to live the life meant for us.
THE OPOSSUM:
→ Eats 5,000 ticks per season
→ Immune to most snake venom
→ Nearly impossible to get rabies
→ "Plays dead" because it's TERRIFIED of you
THE RACCOON:
→ Remembers problem solutions for 3+ years
→ Has more sensory receptors in paws than most mammals
→ Washes food to "see" it better through touch
→ Just wants to eat and raise babies
THE SKUNK:
→ Eats grubs destroying your lawn
→ Digs up yellow jacket nests (you're welcome)
→ Only sprays as absolute LAST resort
→ Stomps feet and warns you FIRST
You call the exterminator. You put out poison. You shoot them.
For WHAT?
For eating the pests you'd pay money to remove?
For existing in a neighborhood built on THEIR home?
Kindness should include all lives.
They're not beautiful to everyone. They're not always welcomed. They're not always understood.
But they're just trying to live the life meant for them.
Maybe let them.
.

Address

Naugatuck, CT

Telephone

+12036455800

Website

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