Nelson Road Veterinary Clinic

04/13/2026

Ticks - with the warm weather the ticks that have overwintered are now coming out of hiberation earlier this year. Since becoming established a decade ago in out area we will see more ticks every year if you live in the county, visit open space, dog parks or the trails. If your dog is mostly at home and you have never found a tick prevetative treatment at this time is optional. Tick paralysis affects dogs and is fairly rare yet does occur in our area. Once you find ticks you will need to treat all succestible animals on your property. Ticks in poultry are rare (lice and mites much more common). Ticks in sheep can carry Tuluremia and if you find some call us. Ticks in rabbits also can carry similar diseases, RHD. The ticks in our area are fairly drab in color (dog and livestock ticks) YET in nearby states some colorful ticks are being being spread quickly by animals that travel and these ticks carry new diseases that can affect livestock, pets and humans. If you find a colorful tick place it in a zip lock bag to bring into the clinic to identify or you can go to www.TickEncounter.org to identify.
To prevent tick bites we have monthly spot-ons for pets and pour ons for horses and livestock. The pour-ons we carry are in different strengths to prevent an overdose. These livestock pour-ons do not affect the bee population. it is the neonicotinoids are also called chloronicotinyls which affect bees. Acetamiprid, cycloxaprid, clothianidin, dinotefuran, imidacloprid, nitenpyram, nithiazine, spinetoram, spinosad, thiocloprid and Thiamethoxam are sold for insect control for various plant and animal uses. We also have a pill that will last 2-3 months in dogs, which also is sold for water medicating chickens for lice and mite control. The sprays and powders are mostly outdated products as they only last a day or so. Most of the flea and tick collars are also outdated pending the product they have for tick control. Please be alert for the Asian Longhorn tick and the lone star tick which are not in are area yet they are of a great concern.
Should your pets, horses or livestock be traveling a long-acting tick control should be applied before you leave, as many of these ticks and diseases appearing in new areas are introduced by traveling domestic animals.

How to stay safe from ticks when playing in the leaves

03/09/2026

Benefits of Living With Pets
In a study, volunteers experienced a 7.1 mm Hg drop in systolic and an 8.1 mm Hg decrease in diastolic blood pressure when they talked to and petted their dogs, as opposed to reading aloud or resting quietly (Health and Healing)

03/01/2026

Welcome to BusinessRate

02/10/2026

Benefits of Living With Pets

Therapy dogs may curb loneliness in psychiatric inpatients

Regular interactions with therapy dogs significantly reduced feelings of loneliness and isolation in people hospitalized for mental disorders, according to a study in Frontiers in Psychiatry. The study, conducted by researchers with Virginia Commonwealth University's Center for Human-Animal Interaction, revealed that therapy dogs provide a unique form of companionship that can improve patients' emotional well-being beyond human interactions or standard care.

01/19/2026

Benefits of Living With Pets
Dog owners in Brno, Czech Republic, were more physically active, followed more healthful diets and had healthier blood glucose levels than their peers who did not own pets, according to a study published in Mayo Clinic Proceedings

01/03/2026

Curated by Smartbrief. Consumers Supply Distributing has recalled 4-pound bags of Country Vet Biscuits and Heartland Harvest Dog Biscuits that may be contaminated with salmonella. The products have an expiration date of Sept. 6, 2026, and were sold in Colorado, Iowa, Kansas, Missouri, Montana...

01/02/2026

Curated by Smartbrief. A study of exceptional longevity in rottweilers suggests that maintaining gonadal function may reduce mortality risks associated with frailty in old age. The study, published in Scientific Reports, found that male dogs with longer te**is exposure had lower mortality ris...

12/01/2025

FREEZING WEATHER
Small Livestock and Poultry

In order to properly care of livestock and poultry outdoors all animals need a place out of the wind, the rain, and to have a supply of water and food available in order to prevent hypothermia. For known sick animals, the very old and some of the newborns are exceptions and they need to be in warm areas. Improperly heated chicken coops and sheds for small livestock can be a hazard. When the weather gets very cold many small barns will burn down. Most of these barn fires are caused by using long thin wire extension cords and high wattage heat lamps. For supplemental light we recommend the metal protector screens and covered CFL bulbs if you are using this type of low wattage light bulb and/or on any bulb around animals. To protect electrical cords one can use flexible hoses, flexible metal conduits and/or metal electrical conduits or square raceways. To check the amperage and size/length of extension cord you can go to http://cepnow.com/?page_id=811, or powerstream.com, or csgnetwork.com and/or other sites. Using the wrong size cord will cause a voltage drop and thus a fire. Whenever you are having lights and heaters on one circuit, a 110 volt 15 amp service should not have over 1800 watts of equipment on at once. Amps = watts/110. Even if you use the 1800 watt rule most coop fires are because the extension cord used is too small. For 50’ and the maximum 15 amps this requires a 14 ga cord (3 prong), for 100’ this is 12 gauge and for 150’ a 10 ga cord is needed! The average inexpensive 18/3 extension cord is an example why cords overheat. At 25’ the maximum amperage is 10A, and for 50-75’ only 5 amps (500 watts @ 110v) can then be safely used on this common size of an extension cord. If an electrical cord feels warm to the touch you need to unplug it and check it out. For all outdoor uses of heating items inside a poultry or livestock barn we recommend using a GFI interrupter extension cord, available at most hardware stores. Only a few of the stock tank heaters cannot be on a GFI circuit. If you are going to use timers there are some quality 3 prong mechanical timers available (i.e. Woods mfg), adaptors that turn on/off thematically controlled units (i.e. Thermo Cube), photoelectric 3 prong timers (Wood Outdoor, Intermatic), and there are some timers which are rated for up to 1650 watts (Graingers). Many of these quality items are found at our local Ace Hardware or Budget Home Center. Ensure these devices and your extension cords are 3 prong. If you need to use a heat lamp then use a brooder lamp that hangs from the ceiling, above the animals, versus the clamp on units that can fall into the bedding. It is recommended to have a battery powered fire alarm in an area where you are trying to keep animals warm in the winter. If using bedding there is no advantage to using over 2" thickness if the bedding is dry, and poultry only need 1/2” or so.
For poultry that are laying eggs and supposedly they need 8-10 hours of darkness (or 18 hours of light), yet if you have a light/heat lamp on 24/7 in a corner of the hen house they still will lay eggs if they have laying boxes. If you are using a light the red light bulbs are supposedly more calming for the chickens. In some flocks the egg laying will decrease with a lot of light or heat, and if you do not need the eggs it is more natural to not supplement heat/24 hour light and allow the hens to naturally stop laying for a few months until the spring. Too much light for too long of a time period can supposedly decrease the overall egg production, yet most of us use light bulbs in the winter to provide a warm focal area underneath the bulb, and that may be more important to you than egg production. For the average backyard flock we recommend heat/light lamps in a safe area with little flammable materials and/or no bedding. To supplement heat without light during the dark there are floor and wall pads available which are superior to those sold for humans. These pads are sold for use in keeping pigs warm (i.e. Kane). We do not recommend heated perches at all in any bird species. Adult, healthy chickens do not need any supplemental heated air, even during freezing weather at 0 F. Healthy birds will be ok as long as you have provided food, frozen free water, and a place out of the wind and weather, plus a perch or location where they can get up and off the cold ground. We feel that the wooden laying boxes that have only one opening are very adequate for cold weather, and if these boxes are inside a draft free hen house expect 2 hens to get into one box. More shed fires are caused by heat lamps than anything else. Overall they may do more harm than good because of this fire potential. Young chicks that are less than 6-8 weeks old, a brooder with supplemental heat, and sick birds are usually the only times you need to heat the hen house. We have sources of such brooder boxes ($250, GQF) and/or homemade directions. Commercially hen houses have their air heated and are properly vented. In most home situations it is not practical or economical to try to heat and have proper ventilation for a hen house/poultry coop. As another warning all of the plastic heated water bowls can cause a fire if they run out of water; we recommend the metal base heaters and water "founts" for poultry. If a light is placed near the heated water can/fount, some brown or red algae may grow in the outside of the waterer but not the inside. Periodic cleaning is all that is needed for this concern and this water mold/algae is usually not toxic. There are heated water bottles available for rabbits, yet on average we do not recommend these since it is difficult to tell if the tip is not frozen.
If heating pads and lamps are to be used there is a higher concern if the animals have bedding. Overall we do not recommend the average goat, sheep or even rabbit have access to heating pads or lights since they can chew on the cords. If in doubt heating pads and bedding should not be used together, even floor pads approved for pigs, etc. Check the label and most of these heating pads easily available/sold are not labeled for outdoor use. All animals should have the ability to get away from a pad or lamp that may get excessively hot. If used there are metal conduit and flexible protectors available to prevent chewing problems with the cords to lamps, pads or water heaters. We do not advise using propane heating units where there is any bedding especially the portable units unsupervised. Always read the directions and do not ignore the recommended 2-3'+ distance between a heater and wood, plastic or anything flammable. If you are considering installing a permanent heater in the barn, we recommend the infrared heaters installed by a qualified HVAC person, and there are also infrared wall panels for poultry (not for livestock as they need to be up high). If you are storing hay inside our website we have information for preventing barn fires and hay stack fires.
We have heating discs that one can warm up in the microwave and they last a few hours yet a simple 75-100 watt bulb in a brooder 18-24” above the ground is preferred. Place a thermometer below the light and should not be over 105F. In a pinch or emergency such as no electricity for a few days we do have ice bags that you can microwave for a couple of minutes and place in a shallow dish inside a box with a hole to go in and out. The contents of these ice packs are not toxic yet not to be used with rabbits or other chewing animals.
Water tank heaters for livestock should be properly grounded, especially if using a plastic tank. The size of the heater will be determined by the size of the water tank and the outside temperature during the winter. For the large 150+ gallon we recommend the 1500 watt size (11 amps @ 110v); the smaller 70 gallon tanks (24" high) may be able to have a smaller size heater in our area. We do not recommend the average floating tank heaters for the plastic water tanks, even if they have guards. The tank heaters which attach to the top of the tank we also do not recommend, as they do not work when the water level is low. One of the most common winter problems that we see in large and especially small animals is lack of fresh water daily. Dehydration occurs and then an apparent sudden death is what is noticed.
If you have a pond of fish we recommend using a bubbler to keep the water open during the winter. The efficient linear piston air pumps we recommend.
We are fortunate that we do not have the subzero weather for many days in a row in Colorado. When the temperatures are below 35 degrees Fahrenheit you should consider the heated water system. When temperatures are below 20F some supplemental heating for small livestock can be considered for a few hours a day, and longer in subzero weather. At -20 F all poultry, small livestock and large livestock should be monitored twice a day for signs of sickness and hypothermia. In a mammal if the temperature re**ally is below 98 that animal needs to be checked on and provided with extra hay, and if the body’s temperature is below 95F it needs to be warmed up. We have more information if the animal needs to be wormed up. A bird’s temperature can range from 102 to 107 and be normal so taking their temperature is not as effective in looking for a cold bird. Tube feeding a bird is needed if it appears sick.

NelsonRoadVet.com

50ft. 4/0 SC 400Amp BLACK Cam-type Stage Light Cable

11/21/2025

Rhinopneumonitis/Equine Herpes
With the recent cases in Texas, Oklahoma and now Colorado there is no reason to panic. YET if you have your horse in a show barn where there are other horses coming in/out and going to shows at this time we do recommend you call the clinic and we can dispense one of the vaccines that helps alittle bit more than the others for the neurological virus. The Vectra Gold that we use is the "3rd best vaccine out there" and if only your horses are at home this is adeqate at this time. This vaccine that we dispense is a killed vaccine.

Rhinopneumonitis is a cold virus that commonly affects horses. Rhinopnumonitis is also called Equine Herpes virus. Herpes is only a classification of viruses; there are many types of herpes. Other animals can also have herpes viral infections, but it is not likely for the equine rhinopneumonitis to be transmitted to other species (except possibly the camelids). The equine herpes/rhino viruses had been classified as Type 1, Type 2, Type 3 and Type 4. There are 7 strains of herpes that affect horses. This handout is for the alphaherpesvirus diseases. The type 5 herpes, a gammaherpesvirus, is not very common and causes equine multinodular pulmonary fibrosis. The equine herpes viruses do not affect humans. Usually only infect one species of animals is affected by a herpes virus; the exception is the equine herpes/rhinopneumonitis and members of the camel family (alpacas, llamas, etc). With some newer strains of the Equine Herpes 1/Rhino some bears, guinea pigs and gazelles have developed serious problems from this virus; guinea pigs do not need to be vaccinated with equine rhinopneumonitis.
The type 1 Herpesvirus is the most destructive of the varieties. It causes abortions, respiratory colds, and sometimes myelocencephalopathy (EHM) if the nerves are being affected. Abortions are usually in late pregnancy; and if near foaling a very weak foal is produced. The virus is spread by nasal discharge and aerosol coughing in the air. After being exposed it usually takes 5 7 days before the horse will show the flu like signs, or nasal discharge. If diagnosed this equine herpes/EHM/EHV1/rhinopnuemonitis is a reportable disease. A horses need to have close contact to be able to spread the disease. The virus usually affects the younger horses, with older horses usually only showing mild cold signs. A high abortion rate is encountered with this virus, which is why we recommend a 3+ vaccination program for all mares during their pregnancy. You should not get into a habit of routinely trading food and water buckets in barns with pregnant horses. Diseases can be spread by the rotation of equipment among different animals. Because many horses can have latent infections and carrier shedding, this disease appears fairly frequently in barns and stables.
If there is a neurological outbreak, the premises may be quarantined and all horses will be individually nasal swabbed for a PCR testing. This expensive PCR test is not routinely done with a horse showing the flu signs or a neurological problem, as there are many other diseases which can show the same signs. EQUID is a term which some refer to with the equine herpes I neurological disease; equine herpes myelocencephalopathy (EHM) is another term. A nasal swab from a horse with a high fever and nasal discharge may be indicated to diagnose herpes in an outbreak. The nasal swab uses a PCR test for the virus.
The equine rhino virus type 1A usually affects younger horses as an upper respiratory disease; it is also called ERAV. Unless PCR type tests are done it is difficult to distinguish between the different rhino like viruses causing flu type problems. ERAV is almost a different virus as it is has been classified as an Apthovirus (previously a picorna virus); the regular rhinoviruses have been reclassified as Erboviruses by 2012 and it will be years before we all get accustomed to the new terminology. There is a vaccine for EHRV.
Equine Herpesvirus Type 2 causes inflammation of the eyelids and in the back of the mouth. It also can cause pneumonias in foals. Equine Herpesvirus Type 3 is a venereal disease, transmitted sexually. It causes ulcers and pustules around the mare's va**na and sometimes elsewhere. It rarely causes abortions. We advise not breeding the mare for 1 month if she has signs of a herpes virus. There are topical medicines available to treat these sores. Equine Herpes virus type 4 (EHV-4) usually limits itself to lung infections and cold type symptoms.
Vaccinations for horses are available for type 1 and 4 herpes. The vaccine is commonly is called Rhinopneumonitis. We advise vaccination of all younger horses for this problem up to twice a year. After the 2nd year of age, the vaccine program will depend upon whether the horse is in a stable, in horse shows or if in a group setting with other younger horses being transferred in and out. The USEF requires proof of vaccination for Rhino and also Influenza every 6 months in order to help reduce the neurological outbreaks that are associated with horse shows (2015+). Unfortunately there is no vaccine labeled to prevent the Herpes 1 neurological problems, yet there are vaccines labeled for the abortion and respiratory issues. A vaccine will not totally protect the horse from the neurological form, yet we do have some vaccines that “are better than others” for EH-1 in reducing neurological signs and severity of the disease if infected. Once an animal is infected it may be a carrier for life, similar to herpes in humans. Stress such as temperature extremes, horse shows, etc., may cause the virus to become active again. It is difficult to make an effective vaccine for herpes, especially when the virus can involve the nervous systems where antibodies and white blood cells are not normally found. We also recommend periodic vaccination of the camelid family for Rhino, using the equine vaccine, especially if the alpaca and llamas go to shows and events.
The disease is usually sporadic, only rarely will a lot of horses together show an outbreak. The horse usually has a temperature of 102 104 degrees before showing the rhinitis (upper respiratory signs). The blood tests for infections usually are fairly normal, although in the early stage we may see a low lymphocyte count. We usually do not need to run blood tests on the average horse showing signs of the flu, unless the signs are severe. Occasionally we'll see a horse that has the neurological problem; these horses will have trouble walking and even standing up. This type of neurological reaction to the virus is confusing, in that it is thought to be due to the body's response to the virus. When this ataxia is encountered we advise ample bedding, food and water close at hand, and symptomatic treatments which may include intravenous fluids. The v***a may not have much tone, the p***s is relaxed, or urine is retained in a bladder that is atonic (doesn't want to work). Other signs may be limb edema, vasculitis and neural ischemia (irritation to the brain and blood vessels) and ataxia problems with the front legs of the horse. A horse that is down and recumbent, or not able to walk at all, is not a good sign. Fortunately only a small percentage of the rhinopneumonitis cases are severe. The first 2 3 days of signs are usually the most severe. It may take 3 weeks to 2 months for some horses to recover from the neurological form of rhinopneumonitis, more commonly called equine herpes when it involves the nervous system. These horses need to be quarantined 30’ from other horses and if any horse has a re**al temperature of > 101.5 F a call to the veterinarian is indicated. With expensive horses there are some anti-viral herpes drugs available.
As with herpes in most animals, the virus is usually obtained within the first few years of life. The virus then remains dormant until the horse has undergone stress, such as seen with travel and pregnancy. Then the virus appears and causes its problems. There is no test to identify carrier animals. The treatment is supportive, using anti-inflammatory drugs, antioxidants and also antibiotics to prevent secondary bacterial infections, until a diagnosis is made. There are also immune stimulation type drugs which can help some patients. Acyclovir and its related anti-viral drugs can help only if the $100+/day therapy is started a few days before signs of infections; after signs of infection have started the antiviral drugs for herpes do not help. If there is an outbreak then a vaccination is indicated if your healthy horse has not had such a vaccine in 3-4 months; we do not routinely vaccinate sick animals. Although the influenza viruses can travel hundreds of feet in the air to infect other horses, the herpes virus travels less than 25' or so. A horse with a runny nose or a temperature over 102 F indicates it may have such an infection and this horse should not be given the vaccination, especially a modified live vaccine. We prefer killed vaccines for such an outbreak concern. With the virus lasting up to 6 weeks in the environment a 30 day quarantine for infected and/or incoming horse for biosecurity concerns is recommended. The vaccine can help reduce the severity of the signs of Rhinopneumonitis, even the neurological form, but not completely prevent it. Unless the horse is pregnant the vaccine only needs to be given every 6-12 months for the average horse in a stable situation, and less if on a pasture by itself.
We usually diagnose the problem by the history and the signs presented to us. Sometimes we may need to obtain blood samples 2 4 weeks apart to confirm the disease within a horse by comparing titers. A recent vaccination will interfere with the testing of the blood for the virus antibodies. Besides a necropsy, there is also a PCR test performed on a nasal discharge that can be used to diagnose the type 1 Rhino.

NelsonRoadVet.com

11/20/2025

Benefits of Living With Pets
Owning a cat may reduce the risk of a heart attack death, per the University of Minnesota. A 10 year study revealed that those with a cat were 40% less likely to die from a heart attack than those who did not have a cat. Cats may help combat heart-harming stress and anxiety, as already shown in studies with dog owners.

11/07/2025

WINTER PET HEALTH PREVENTION TIPS

Most pets will be okay outside until it is 20 degrees F., if they have adequate protection. This includes a dog house where they are not laying on the ground. Elevated benches should be not made of metal or any other compound which conducts cold from the ground. The dog house only needs to be 2-3x the area the dog's body takes up. An extra large dog house is not needed nor recommended. The dog house should be out of the wind and weather, and placed to where it is not drafty inside. Heating a dog house also is not recommended, as electrical fires can occur. If you pet is a senior pet, such as over 10 years of age, the dog or cat should be kept indoors when the weather drops below freezing. If the pet is hairless, you need to become concerned when the temperature is at 0 degrees F; at this temperature frost bite can occur in 30 minutes. Try to limit all activity if the temperature is -10 degrees, unless the animal is acclimated to the weather and has developed a good winter coat. Very few pets should be out at -20 F for more than 20 minutes, unless they are young, are adapted to the cold and have a very adequate shelter (i.e. arctic dogs).
Unfrozen water needs to be provided at least 2x-3x a day. We highly recommend the heated water dishes if you cannot provide water twice a day. With a chewing dog you may have to add a flexible metal sleeve for protection against him chewing the electrical cord. Metal bowls outside are not recommended in the winter; as the pet’s tongue can stick to the metal. Food bowls also should not be metal; yet always recommend a food ang water bowl to be indoors, and inside we feel prefer the stainless. Thin plastic bowls may break and glass bowls are also not recommended in cold weather. Thick plastic, porcelain or the clay-type bowls are adequate for outdoor use, if you choose to have food and water outside. (We feel indoors only is adequate, as your pets will not be outside more than a couple hours at a time).
It is a good habit to knock on the car hood before starting the engine. Cats may prefer to sleep near a warm engine and/or out of the weather in cold weather. We recommend you feed your cat at night, to keep her indoors and out of harms way. If your car leaks antifreeze and/or you have spilled some, this can be fatal to pets who walk through it and then ingest it by licking their feet. It only takes a teaspoon to kill a cat. Since antifreeze also tastes sweet, always wash down any spill you notice. If a pet ingest antifreeze the antidote must be administered within a couple hours. If one is unsure and waits till the pet shows the signs of vomiting and kidney failure, it maybe too late to treat.
If you use salt or similar products on your sidewalks, always wipe off the pet’s feet when they come indoors. The toxicities of all the various salts are very low. If in doubt we recommend the calcium magnesium acetate salt and/or glycol ice removers. It is best to shovel first and use less of these products that also affect the vegetation, concrete and environment. Salt toxicity problems from sidewalk deicers are not very common. If we see sodium toxicity it is usually seen in a dog eating play dough or a similar product and not sidewalk salt.
If you have cats and a Holiday tree, then consider tying ginger near the tree if they want to climb it; with some pets you may have to tie to treat to the wall or the ceiling. There are other repellents available, which usually have more of an obnoxious odor to humans; these products may work better but they can affect you or your guests. Pets should not be allowed to play with or chew on items with threads and strings over 2” in length, which include tinsel on the Christmas tree. If in doubt avoidance is the best preventative medicine if you have a playful puppy or kitten.
Poinsettias, mistletoe, daffodils and other lily family plants can be toxic plants. Of the other household plants that are very toxic you should be concerned with the azalea, caster bean, foxglove, lupine, palm, Rosary Pea and yew plants.
During the holidays we see more problems with chocolate ingestion; especially Halloween to Valentine's Day. Other holiday foods that can cause toxicity will be the ingestion of avocados, chocolate, coffee, onions, garlic, grapes, Macadamia nuts, and raisins are some of the common holiday foods toxic to pets. If you cook with the sugar substitute xylitol, this is very toxic to pet if they eat items with xylitol (birch sugar).
This time of year the mice will come into your house in search of a warm place for the winter. The snap type or mouse traps are the most effective if you can keep them from pets. The human revolving type traps are also adequate if you know what you will be doing with the live mouse after you catch it. The sticky traps are not humane. If you use rodent bait ensure you purchase a product that is treatable should your pet ingest the ingredients. We do not recommend you using bromethalin, cholecalciferol or zinc phosphide poisons where there are pets. We have no antidotes for these poisonings like we do for the warfarin compounds and thus all of these rodenticides, strychnine and the other non-treatable products need to be seen ASAP and given an injection or product to ensure the pet vomits up the poison as the recommended oral products you just cannot trust. The rodenticides that have an antidote and thus are treatable are the warfarin products of brodifacoum, bromadiolone difethialone and the indanedione group of diphacione, chlorophacinone, valone, pindone. These products still need a veterinary exam which at times can wait until the next day. If you have a severely infested mouse dropping area to clean up, ask for our Hantavirus handout before you start the clean up. If you have a barn our outbuilding with mice, rates, voles or other rodent infestations we have a specific wildlife deterring handout. For feed rooms and poultry type areas the best method is to place the snap traps inside a sturdy plastic box with