Fatt Rabbit Farms

Fatt Rabbit Farms Small hobby breeder & botanist. Hollands are my main focus at this time SALES POLICY UPDATE:
**First Come First Serve** There will no longer be a list. Just ask!

Bunnies will not be held without a 50% non-refundable deposit. If deposit is not received by the next day of our verbal agreement, the Bunny will go back up for adoption. If the bunny isn't picked up by reserved date, ALL monies will be forfeited and the bunny will go back up for adoption. A ready date is always estimated for our kits. All balances are to be submitted by that date unless otherwise

agreed upon or final balances need to be submitted no later than 48 prior to our agreed pickup, whichever of these come first as not all rabbits are kits that leave my premises. Usually each buyer has ample time to find transportation or pick up. I will allow 30 days from the time they are ready for you to pick up before I will place back for sale. (But again balances are to be paid in full by the ready date, not pick up date) This applies to the kits that are still in the grow out pens. Otherwise pick up date is the date we have agreed upon. If you need an extension of our care you will expected to pay average costs of boarding (dependent on current market) unless its otherwise agreed upon. We should not be expected to have and keep cage space open for a purchased bunny awaiting your pick up. We will work with transporters as long as the meeting place is within 30 miles of our location. We may be able to meet further but there may be fees involved to do so. However we do not guarantee care or health of the rabbit once it's been handed over to any other party. All bunnies will come with a care sheet. transition bag of food as well as a little hay to get you started. Pedigrees are only given if specifically stated. I do not pedigree pet rabbits under any circumstances. I do have other starter packages available upon request for certain fees. Some options do have small starter cages. If you can NOT care for your bunny or have a life changing situation please contact us right away and we will be glad to help you find it a proper home. With any pedigreed rabbits we do reserve the right to buy them back at the same price sold before you are given leave to rehome them elsewhere. If we refuse and you do rehome them then we are to be given that parties information.
****Please note that we are always willing to take our bunnies back without a refund if you feel you just can not care for the bunny for one reason or another. Some of our breeds require extra care. We do not recommend these breeds for beginners. English lops, Velveteen lops as well as any of our Angoras require more upkeep and care than some other breeds. English Lops definitely require more care than regular breeds and tend to be more sensitive to changes. Continuous research on any breed will only benefit you and your bunny. They can live to be 10-12 yrs old and require love, attention and commitment. Keep that in mind before you decide if a rabbit is right for you. Also we personally do not recommend any rabbit as a child's pet. They are cute but rarely cuddly and children tend to have different expectations then what that reality is. Most of our rabbis enjoy attention and love pets but very few bunnies regardless of breeder actually enjoy being picked up. If you do decide still to purchase a bunny for your child regardless of my attempts to persuade otherwise, understand that YOU the parent are the one adopting/purchasing said bunny from us and our expectations are that YOU will ultimately be responsible for it's care. Fatt Rabbit Farms is not responsible for any bunny after they have left our care. We also can not guarentee the showing and breeding capabilites of the rabbit you choose. We do our best to pair our bunnies with the best owner for them though. We do have the right to refuse a sale at any time for ant any reason. If we decide not to complete the sale after a deposit has been given then we will refund the monies paid. This is solely at our discretion. Please private message (PM) or e-mail us if you have any questions or concerns regarding our sales policy. By applying the deposit, you agree to our Sales Policy. This sales policy is subject to change at any time without notice. All sales are final. No refunds, exchanges, or returns! A 50% non-refundable, non-transferrable, deposit is required to hold rabbits for ANY length of time, meaning even if it's only a few days before your desired pick up. Deposit will be applied to the total amount due. Rabbits not being held by a deposit will be sold on a first come, first served basis. In the event that something happens wjile in our care to the deposit rabbit we will replace it with a comparable rabbit or work something out, at our sole discretion. Any requests for additional photos or photo updates prior to purchase will be accommodated as our schedule allows, but cannot be guaranteed as we are quite busy. Photos from our page and website, as well as additional photos that are provided must not be distributed without our consent. Payment methods:
We accept cash in person preferred, PayPal but only under friends and family as we've had previous customer cancel a payment after pickup. We may have other apps upon request but will NOT accept checks, cashiers checks or money orders. We certify that to the best of our knowledge and belief any rabbit we sell is healthy, free of disease, and free of disqualifications*. All rabbits are sold with up to date pedigrees (unless being sold as a pet) or unless we state othereise. We make no guarantees of any kind, including, but not limited to, how juniors will develop, future breeding abilities, and how any rabbit will place at a show. Older rabbits may not be in show condition. We accept no liability for the health of the animal once the rabbit has left our care. We are not responsible for the care given by another individual. It is the buyer’s responsibility to check, or have an agent check, every animal carefully before purchase (or ask any and all questions if shipping).
*Unless otherwise noted at time of sale, or sold as brood/breeding stock or pet. All rabbits sold are entered into our database and must retain the tattoo and prefix given to them (Fatt Rabbit Farms FRF or other depending upon original breeder). If the rabbit is a junior or has not been named (tattoo number shown after prefix) you may request a name change in our system. If no request is received, or the rabbit has had offspring, the name on the pedigree will remain its formal name and may not be changed. (Adapted, with permission)
By putting a deposit down you are agreeing to this policy in its entirety. By purchasing you are agreeing that we determined the bunny healthy before leaving Our rabbitry.

Working with the Vienna gene-The gene responsible for creating the blue-eyed white is called the Vienna gene and is expr...
04/22/2025

Working with the Vienna gene-

The gene responsible for creating the blue-eyed white is called the Vienna gene and is expressed in genetic code as vv. The gene isn't dominant nor is it considered simply recessive by many, owing to it's ability to lay hidden for generations. Technically it is a recessive gene (just not simple) but it can be passed to the next generation and displayed without breeding to another recessive gene holder.

Breeding-
When you breed a BEW (Blue Eyed White) to another BEW you'll get 100% BEW. The Vienna gene works the same in all breeds of rabbits. But BEW works very similar to a REW in the way it can mask other present color alleles.

When you breed any color beside BEW to BEW, they will produce either of the following: Vienna Marked (VM) or Vienna Carriers (VC). A VM or VC is expressed in genetic code as Vv. Both are genetically the same. They both carry only one Vienna gene. The difference lies completely in appearance. A VM is a rabbit that you can look at and clearly see he carries the gene because he will have white “marks” on in places there shouldn't be any white or blue eyes might be present or both. Examples can vary from as little to a white paw, or white toenails, or white nose, or a white blaze to as much as the rabbit coat containing so much white that it appears broken in appearance. A VMs eyes can be bright blue, marbled, violet or even brown. A VC has no visible markings but can pass the vienna gene on to it's offspring. A VC looks just like any other rabbit not carrying the Vienna gene. Being VC also means it can be shown as long the rabbit meets SOPs. A VM cannot. A BEW can be shown as long as they are recognized in your breed of choice.

Vienna Gene stats:

1. BEW (vv) X BEW (vv) = 100% BEW (vv)

2. BEW (vv) X "Normal (VV)" = 100% VM or V (Vv), 0% BEW (vv)

3. Vienna Marked or Carrier (Vv) X Vienna Marked or Carriers (Vv) = 25% BEW (vv), 50% Vienna Marked/Carriers (Vv), 25% "Normal" (VV)

4. Vienna Marked/Carrier (Vv) X BEW (vv)= 50% BEW (vv), 50% Vienna Marked/Carriers (Vv)

5. Vienna Marked/Carrier (Vv) X "Normal" (VV) = 50% Vienna Marked/Carriers (Vv), 50% "Normal" (VV), 0% BEW (vv)

Remember those are just statistical averages.
When breeding for Vienna Marked rabbits its best to avoid breeding the broken gene into your program. By doing so you can make differentiating markings extremely difficult. This is also why it's advised not to use the White Ear gene. Some VM rabbits can display white ears without the WE gene. So if the WE gene is present in your breeding, determining where the ears came can be impossible without test breeding. And frankly you don't want to sell a rabbit as a WE VM if it isn't.

If you're trying to determine whether your rabbit is VV or Vv (vienna carrier):
You may have to test breed a few times, but breeding it to a known VC or a VM will eventually tell you whether it is or isn't (theoretically speaking by averages).. A non vienna rabbit will never be able to produce a BEW. If after a few litters you haven't produced any BEW then the possibility of it being VC drops dramatically.

**I hope this explanation helps but I'm no genetics expert. Just the basics. I explained the best way I was able, in the most basic terms possible.

Shepherd’s Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)AKALady’s Purse, Poor Man’s Pepper, Mother’s Heart, Pickpocket, CocowortThis p...
04/18/2025

Shepherd’s Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)
AKA
Lady’s Purse, Poor Man’s Pepper, Mother’s Heart, Pickpocket, Cocowort

This post has been a long time coming. I love doing these posts but they take me quite a bit to put together.
Shepherd’s Purse has been on my “must talk about” list for a while, mostly because it’s one of those unassuming little w**ds with a huge list of uses—especially when it comes to bleeding and wound care. But like a lot of wild plants, the more I dug, the more I found.

It might not look like much—just another little roadside green—but don’t let its humble size fool you. Shepherd’s Purse has a long history of being a go-to herb in herbal medicine cabinets around the world. And yes... it’s another one that shows up in the yard uninvited and ends up being more helpful than most of the stuff we try to grow on purpose.

🐰🐰As always, rabbit uses are included, just scroll down a bit.

PLANT DESCRIPTION

Shepherd’s Purse is a fast-growing, cool-season annual that thrives in disturbed soils—roadsides, fields, gardens, even sidewalk cracks. If you've ever seen a w**d with little white flowers and those distinctive heart- or purse-shaped seed pods, chances are you’ve met it already.
The leaves are most edible in the early spring, much like dandelion or chicory greens. The seedpods add a peppery taste to stir fries and salads. Historically, the vitamin K–rich plant was used for all manner of internal and external blood regulation.

Growth: 6–18 inches tall
Leaves: Rosette at the base (can resemble dandelion greens), with smaller, simpler leaves up the stem
Flowers: Tiny, white, 4-petaled, blooming in clusters at the top
Seed Pods: Flat, heart-shaped (like little coin purses—hence the name), each about the size of a grain of rice
Roots: Small taproot, easy to pull
Taste/Odor: Slightly peppery or bitter

It grows everywhere—literally worldwide—and often pops up early in spring or persists through mild winters. If you forage, you’ll probably spot it before you even go looking for it.

CONSTITUENTS
Vitamins & Minerals: Vitamin C, Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Iron, Zinc, Manganese

Compounds: Flavonoids (apigenin, quercetin, kaempferol), Choline, Acetylcholine, Tannins, Sulfur-containing compounds, Polypeptides, Saponins, Sinigrin (a glucosinolate)

Alkaloids & Acids: Fumaric acid, Bursinic acid, Bursinic aldehyde, Amines (including tyramine and histamine)

MEDICINAL & THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS

Internally (tea, tincture, capsules):
- Styptic: Stops internal bleeding (esp. uterine, GI, and urinary tract)
- Astringent: Tightens and tones tissues
- Diuretic: Promotes urine flow
- Anti-inflammatory: Soothes irritated tissue
- Vasoconstrictor: Narrows blood vessels to reduce bleeding and swelling
- Cardiotonic: Slightly strengthens/tones the heart
- Uterine tonic: Supports and tones uterus, especially postpartum
- Antibacterial: Mild activity against pathogens
- Emmenagogue: Stimulates menstrual flow if sluggish (used cautiously)

Externally (poultice, wash, salve):
- Stops bleeding from cuts and wounds
- Reduces bruising and swelling
- Useful for hemorrhoids, varicose veins, nosebleeds
- Traditional eyewash for inflammation (diluted infusion)

FOLK & WORLDWIDE USES / ETHNOBOTANY

Shepherd’s Purse has been used in European, Asian, and Indigenous healing traditions. Common uses include:
- Postpartum bleeding in Europe
- Wound poultices in multiple cultures
- Nosebleed and menstrual treatment in Traditional Chinese Medicine
- Urinary support in Native American medicine
- One of Japan/Korea’s traditional spring herbs for health and renewal
- Battlefield herb used in wartime to control bleeding

HUMAN USES
1. Bleeding (Topical & Internal): Postpartum bleeding, Menorrhagia, Hemorrhoids, Nosebleeds
2. Uterine Support: Tones and contracts uterus postpartum or to regulate menstrual flow
3. GI Support: Mild diarrhea, GI inflammation
4. Urinary Tract: UTIs, cystitis, bedwetting, urinary urgency
5. Skin & External Uses: Bruises, burns, sore muscles, varicose veins, rashes
6. Cardiovascular: Folk use for mild hypertension and capillary fragility

🐰RABBIT USES🐰

Shepherd’s Purse isn’t one of the more commonly discussed herbs in the rabbit world, but hopefully that’s changing. Its properties make it a potentially useful addition to the natural first-aid or supplemental toolkit—especially for breeders, homesteaders, and anyone dealing with reproductive cycles or GI stress.

1. Bleeding (Styptic Use):
- May help in minor bleeding episodes like small wounds or nosebleeds.
- Anecdotally used postpartum to reduce bleeding and promote uterine recovery.
- Cold tea or powdered herb could be applied topically in emergencies.

2. Uterine & Reproductive Support:
- May assist uterine tone post-kindling.
- Some breeders report using weak tea to support postpartum healing and expel retained kits.
- Should be used with caution in pregnant does or not at all due to potential uterine stimulation but can be applied topically in most cases.

3. GI Support:
- Mildly astringent—may help with loose stools caused by inflammation.
- Does not stimulate gut motility like dandelion or plantain.

4. Other Considerations:
- Introduce slowly and in moderation.
- Not recommended for long-term use.
- Observe carefully for individual reactions.

**Cavies will eat it when diarrhea is present but typically will avoid at others time because of the astringent nature of the plant.

HARVESTING, RECIPES & PREPARATION METHODS

Harvesting Tips
- Harvest in early spring or fall when the plant is young and tender.
- Best picked before the plant flowers fully—this is when the energy is still in the leaves and roots.
- For medicinal use, the whole aerial plant (stems, leaves, flowers, and seed pods) is typically used.
- Use scissors or pinch at the base of the stem, avoiding roots if you want it to regrow.
- Dry in small bundles upside down in a well-ventilated, dark area. Once dry, store in a sealed jar or paper bag out of direct sunlight.

Tea (Infusion)
Use 1–2 tsp dried herb or a small handful of fresh chopped plant per 1 cup of hot water. Steep for 10–15 minutes. Strain and drink warm or cool. This tea can be taken 2–3 times a day to support urinary health, reduce bleeding, or used as a wash or compress externally.

Tincture
- Fill a clean glass jar halfway with chopped fresh plant (or 1/3 full with dried).
- Cover with vodka (at least 80 proof), shake well.
- Let sit for 4–6 weeks in a dark place, shaking occasionally.
- Strain and store in amber bottles.
- Dose: typically 10–30 drops up to 3x daily for adults (adjust accordingly for animal use).

Poultice
Mash fresh herb (or rehydrate dried) into a paste using a mortar, pestle, or blender. Apply directly to the skin and cover with gauze or cloth for bleeding, bruises, or swelling. Change every few hours as needed.

Compress/Wash
Soak a clean cloth in cooled Shepherd’s Purse tea and apply to wounds, hemorrhoids, or inflamed areas. Can be used on eyes (diluted) or for postpartum care.

Storage
- Dried herb: Store in a glass jar out of light and moisture. Lasts about 1 year.
- Tincture: Lasts several years if stored in a cool, dark place.
- Tea: Use immediately or refrigerate and use within 24–48 hours.
- Poultice: Make fresh each time for best results.

Here are a few food recipes I found while searching that sound tasty lol.

Edible Recipes Using Shepherd’s Purse

1. Shepherd’s Purse Soup
A traditional Korean-inspired soup (Naengi Guk)
Ingredients:
• 1 cup fresh Shepherd’s Purse, cleaned and chopped
• 1 small onion, diced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 egg (optional, beaten)
• 3 cups water or mild broth
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Sesame oil (optional)
Instructions:
• Bring water or broth to a boil.
• Add onion and garlic; simmer for 5 minutes.
• Stir in Shepherd’s Purse and cook for another 3–5 minutes until tender.
• If using an egg, stir it in slowly while stirring the soup.
• Add salt, pepper, and a dash of sesame oil to taste.

2. Shepherd’s Purse Rice Cakes (Naengi Tteok)
A seasonal Korean side dish
Ingredients:
• 1 cup glutinous rice flour
• ½ cup blanched and finely chopped Shepherd’s Purse
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• Salt to taste
• Warm water as needed
Instructions:
• Mix rice flour with chopped greens and a pinch of salt.
• Gradually add warm water to form a soft dough.
• Form small cakes or balls and steam for 10–15 minutes.
• Drizzle with sesame oil before serving.

3. Shepherd’s Purse Stir-Fry
Ingredients:
• 1–2 cups fresh Shepherd’s Purse, chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tbsp oil (olive, sesame, or your choice)
• 1 tsp soy sauce
• Dash of vinegar or lemon juice
Instructions:
• Heat oil in a skillet and sauté garlic until fragrant.
• Add Shepherd’s Purse and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes.
• Drizzle with soy sauce and a splash of vinegar or lemon juice before serving.

4. Shepherd’s Purse Dumpling Filling
Ingredients:
• 1 cup finely chopped Shepherd’s Purse (blanched and squeezed)
• ½ cup chopped mushrooms or ground meat (optional)
• ½ tsp sesame oil
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Dumpling wrappers
Instructions:
• Mix all ingredients into a uniform filling.
• Place small scoops into wrappers and seal.
• Steam, pan-fry, or boil until cooked through.

5. Shepherd’s Purse Omelette
Ingredients:
• 2 eggs
• ¼ cup finely chopped Shepherd’s Purse (lightly blanched)
• Salt and pepper
• Oil for pan
Instructions:
• Beat eggs and mix with chopped greens, salt, and pepper.
• Pour into a hot, lightly oiled pan and cook until set.
• Fold and serve with a drizzle of soy sauce or hot sauce if desired.

Sources & References
• Duke, J.A. Handbook of Medicinal Herbs, CRC Press – for detailed phytochemical constituents and medicinal actions.
• Peterson Field Guide to Medicinal Plants and Herbs (Eastern/Central North America) – for field ID, traditional and current herbal uses.
• PubMed Database (pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov) – for clinical studies and documented pharmacological effects of Capsella bursa-pastoris.
• Botanical.com (A Modern Herbal by Maud Grieve) – for historical herbal practices and folk medicine notes.
• Materia Medica Resources from practicing herbalists including David Hoffmann, Michael Tierra, and Rosalee de la Forêt – for use profiles and preparation guidance.
• Ethnobotanical references from Korean traditional medicine and East Asian wild food use – for culinary and seasonal applications.

Because this has come up a few times in multiple groups, I decided to make a post I can share. Guidelines for Breeding R...
04/02/2025

Because this has come up a few times in multiple groups, I decided to make a post I can share.

Guidelines for Breeding Rabbits Recovering from E. cuniculi

Encephalitozoon cuniculi (E. cuniculi) is a microsporidian parasite that affects rabbits, often causing neurological, renal, or ocular issues. While some rabbits recover after treatment, they may remain carriers for life. Breeding a recovered rabbit carries risks that should be carefully considered. There is no known drug for rabbits that is guaranteed to eliminate all spores.

1. Understanding the Risks

Latent Carriers: Even after recovery, the rabbit may still harbor E. cuniculi in a dormant state and shed spores intermittently.

Transmission to Offspring: The parasite can be passed to kits in utero or through urine shedding after birth.

Stress-Triggered Relapses: Pregnancy and lactation can weaken the immune system, increasing the chance of an E. cuniculi flare-up in the mother.

Risk to Other Rabbits: If the recovered rabbit is housed with others, it may spread spores through urine, potentially infecting a healthy mate or colony members.

2. When Might It Be Acceptable to Breed a Recovered Rabbit?

Breeding a rabbit that has tested positive for E. cuniculi should be carefully evaluated based on:

Titer Testing: If available, testing can help determine if the rabbit has an active or past infection.

Health Status: The rabbit should be symptom-free for an extended period with no history of relapses.

Mate Selection: Ideally, breed only with another rabbit that has tested positive, rather than exposing a naive mate.

Breeder’s Goals: If the breeder is comfortable with the potential for E. cuniculi-positive offspring and is committed to responsible monitoring.

3. Best Practices for Breeding a Recovered Rabbit

If a breeder chooses to proceed, the following precautions should be taken:

Testing: Conduct a titer test if possible to assess active infection.

Isolate if Necessary: Keep the recovered rabbit separate from uninfected rabbits to prevent potential spread.

Monitor Closely: Watch for any signs of relapse, particularly during pregnancy and lactation.

Cull for Health, Not Just Symptoms: If multiple offspring develop symptoms, reconsider future breedings.

Inform Buyers or Keepers: If selling or placing the kits, be transparent about their potential exposure risk.

4. Ethical Considerations

If breeding recovered rabbits leads to frequent health issues in offspring, it may be best to discontinue breeding that line.

Responsible breeding prioritizes the overall health and welfare of the animals.

If there are doubts about risk, consider using the rabbit in a non-breeding role instead.

Conclusion

Breeding a rabbit that has recovered from E. cuniculi is not a straightforward decision. While some recovered rabbits may successfully breed without issue, the potential for transmission, relapse, and long-term health concerns must be weighed carefully. Each breeder must decide based on their risk tolerance and commitment to ethical breeding practices.

For those unsure, consulting with a rabbit-savvy veterinarian or discussing experiences with other breeders who have dealt with E. cuniculi can provide additional guidance.

Why E. cuniculi Isn’t Considered Curable?

1. Latent Infection & Dormancy
-E. cuniculi is an intracellular microsporidian parasite, meaning it hides inside cells, especially in the brain, kidneys, and eyes.
-Even after treatment, some parasites can go dormant in tissues and reactivate later, much like herpes viruses in humans.
o Source: https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/encephalitozoonosis-in-rabbits

2. Spore Formation & Resistance
-The parasite produces spores, which are highly resistant to the immune system and treatment.
-Antiparasitic drugs (like fenbendazole) reduce replication but doesn’t necessarily eliminate every spore.

o Source: ScienceDirect - Microsporidiosis in Lagomorphs
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0304401718303297

3. Lack of a True Eradication Drug
o Fenbendazole and albendazole slow down the parasite, but they don’t always pe*****te all infected cells deeply enough to clear the infection entirely.
o No known drug has been proven to completely sterilize the body of E. cuniculi.

o Source: PDSA - E. cuniculi in Rabbits
https://www.pdsa.org.uk/pet-help-and-advice/pet-health-hub/conditions/e-cuniculi-in-rabbits

4. Chronic Damage Even After Treatment

-Once the parasite has scarred the brain, kidneys, or eyes, the damage remains even if the active infection is stopped.
- This is why some rabbits recover but still have head tilt, kidney issues, or cataracts—because the damage is permanent.

o Source: Carolina Veterinary Specialists - E. cuniculi in Rabbits

A quick word.....I feel the need to discuss nutrition for a upcoming Momma, a lactating Momma and her kits. Many breeder...
05/12/2024

A quick word.....

I feel the need to discuss nutrition for a upcoming Momma, a lactating Momma and her kits. Many breeders have been given advice that either is outdated or flat out wrong. I see posts over and over again asking for advice on what pregnant does should be fed and when to introduce pellets to kits. Newer and newer research comes out all the time and unlike the weirdos like me that keep their eyes on research sites, the vast majority of breeders just don't read these kind of papers for the hell of it. So I'll do a run down of a few things you all should know.
Pregnant/Expectant does.... While some do ok without a feed increase it isn't in their best interest as the further along they get into their pregnancy the more the fetuses take. This starts their trip into motherhood in a deficit. And every mom knows how exhausting it is naturally to be a mom let alone if you're not getting the proper amount of nutrition to sustain your own body so it can produce enough milk to supply others with the nutrients they need. By no means does this mean that you should start giving them free reign to pellets a week after breeding but by week 3 development is in full swing and fetal growth is becoming more pronounced. Here is where you'll want to add a few extra teaspoons to help compensate. Keep increasing every few days until kindling at which point they should have free access to their pellets and their hay. For the overweight or even the bit chunky this little bit of extra food can be life saving. Ketosis aka pregnancy toxemia amd Hypocalcemia, both can be deadly and is being seen more and more often in my groups . Once symptoms are seen it's difficult to turn around. Ketosis is brought on by a quick drop in their caloric intake & nutrition and hypocalcemia is due to the body not getting enough calcium which can cause deficits in other nutrients. The issue with these two is that symptoms are often so similar that it can be hard to differentiate. The short of it is they need a shot of glucose and calcium gluconate. These two items can help but is still not a guarantee. With ketosis giving them electrolytes with honey water may give the necessary boost needed to at least give them a fighting chance. But offering tums with calcium at this point will not save the day. So basically I'm telling you all to just help by giving them a little extra rations during week 3 and 4. Prevention is key in all things
This brings me to the kiddos. I've found many do not introduce kits to pellets until they are well out of the nest box. Did you know in the wild babies are introduced to solids beginning on day 1! Though that's not necessary for our domestics, studies have found that introducing pellets by day 8 almost completely eliminates weaning enteritis. I have always introduced pellets by day 10 or 11 (by the time their eyes open) and rarely suffered issues with the GI after doing this but never put two and two together to understand the possible reasoning. I am a firm advocate of only giving kits their moms diet so assumed this was the reasoning not necessarily the early intro. I just thought it helped sustain them and the moms a little better which I'm sure it still does but to help prevent gastritis I'd try about anything. Every breeder knows how devastating any gi upset can be. So why not give it a try.

Passalurus Ambiguous aka Rabbit Pinworms Important to note that this particular nematode is not zoonotic but is actually...
11/20/2022

Passalurus Ambiguous aka Rabbit Pinworms

Important to note that this particular nematode is not zoonotic but is actually species & host specific. While you can’t catch them by handling keep in mind that undercooked rabbit meat can leave you feeling a bit weak in the knees due to thoughts about the going-ons around your bumhole lol.
There are a few other pinworms rabbits can contract (in particular P. nonanulatus also is reported) but the Passalurus Ambiguous is by far the most common.
Pinworms in general are nothing to rush out to buy treatment unless certain criteria is present. They can actually be of some use, aiding in digestion of plants. Rabbit pinworms are typically not harmful unless the infestation is heavy to severe. Larger worm loads can cause anorexia, loss of body condition and weight, compaction, constipation & blockage, re**al prolapse and perianal itching which can cause chewing that in turn can result in sores & infection.
Pinworms are harder to treat because of the need rabbits have to consume their cecotropes. However most adult rabbits will never have much of an a problem with these tiny nematodes and only get noticed come processing day or during a surgery. They can cause issues with kits especially at weaning so if you are aware of the presence of pinworms in your brood does I would suggest treating them for future problems.

Pinworms live in the upper GI. They inhabit the cecum, small intestine and colon. The eggs get passed out with the f***s and get consumed with the cecotropes.
Pinworm free tends to be short lived. But it's still best to treat if you are seeing the pinworms and/or the symptoms stated above. Both indicate heavier loads present. To treat effectively you should attack it with multiple steps.

Here's MY recommendation:

Step 1—Spread food grade diatomaceous earth around the Rabbitry or ground. The idea is a very light coating that will help eliminate them in the environment. **Do NOT feed or consume DE, not even food grade. Though you can not see the actual structure of DE without a telescope please note that the edges are sharp. In fact DE works on parasites because of it's edges. It cuts into the parasite or nematodes bodies. Unfortunately recent research studies have shown it can cause internal bleeding if given as supplement. Light spread would be extremely unlikely to cause harm in this way. So again spread lightly around the environment.

Step 2—add one of these antiparasitics.

Fenbendazole–20 mg/kg PO in two doses 10 days apart. . I recommend Safeguard Goat Dewormer Suspension formula as it's easy to measure out. .1cc = 20 mg

Thiabendazole 50 mg/kg PO in two doses 10 days apart. This antiparasitic is effective but often not used in favor of other drugs that have less side effects. It's important to note that side effects are typically not an issue unless you've overmedicated.

Alternate Piperazine routes: Piperizine Citrate–Individually dose rabbit directly by mouth at 200 mg/kg then repeat in 10-14 days. Or you can mix it into the food by giving an adult rabbit 0.5 g/kg daily for 2 consecutive days. Wait 10-14 days and redose again for 2 more consecutive days. For juniors & juveniles (rabbits less than 6 mos) give 0.75 g/kg per day for 2 consecutive days. Wait 10-14 days and redose again for 2 consecutive days.

Piperazine may also be given in drinking water 100 mg/100 mL of water for 1 day, repeat in 10 days.

The two most often recommended Piperazine formulas:
Piperazine adipate
500 mg/kg PO q 24 h during 2 days

Piperazine citrate
200 mg/kg PO
Repeated after 10-14 days

***All content is based on my own experiences. I am a long time rabbit caregiver and breeder. I have a background in rabbit husbandry, study and research as well as being a hobby botanist. I use holistic treatments whenever possible on myself as well as my animals.
I am not a medical expert or a veterinarian. Any medical treatments is best discussed with your veterinarian before proceeding. It can be dangerous to treat symptoms without diagnostic tests. Understand that using my posts as medical advice is your own decision. Any treatment can cause side effects that may result in death. That goes for any thing.
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Myiasis aka Flystrike Treatment & PreventionFly strike, or myiasis, is an extremely distressing condition affecting many...
07/05/2022

Myiasis aka Flystrike
Treatment & Prevention

Fly strike, or myiasis, is an extremely distressing condition affecting many rabbits during the summer months. Flies are attracted to lay their eggs on the rabbit under certain circumstances. Some examples include but not limited to: urine burn, cakey butts (sticky p**p, diarrhea, excess cecotropes), open wounds-injury-infection, weepy eyes, wet fur especially dewlap and ge***al area. The larvae after hatching are able to attack healthy tissue and are capable of causing considerable soft tissue damage Living conditions can contribute highly myiasis. Keeping the environment as clean as possible can help considerably keep insects at bay.

Prevention products

Rearguard
https://www.thehayexperts.co.uk/blog/post/flystrike-prevention

Beaphar Fly Guard
https://www.ebay.com/itm/114709477018

Prevention methods:

• Keep the bedding clean and empty trays daily especially during the wetter, hotter months.
• Immediately address anything that may cause f***l or urine contamination on the skin
• Daily inspections of each rabbit is suggested. Check the perianal areas in particular! At the bare minimum, definitely check the ill, the young, the elderly, the obese or any that are disabled on a daily basis.
• Use flea combs to help detect the presence of eggs and the tiny larvae. Even the larger maggots can hide easily.
• Consider investing in mosquito net of even window screening to cover all entry points or to even cover cages.
• Flystrips work pretty well even indoors. Flytraps (with the liquid attractant) are best used to lure the flies away from the rabbits. They work but the smell tends to attract more flies then just the ones already present.

Recommendation:

Vet assistance is the first recommendation if it's an option for you. Eggs and larvae can be difficult to see, let alone remove. I am listing treatment recommendations jic seeking medical assistance is not an option.

Treatments:

• Use a flea/lice comb to comb through the fur and remove as much of the eggs and larvae as possible.

• Gently clip away any fur around the affected area. This makes visibility accessible and makes treatment easier.

• Use the tweezers to remove any maggots...try to avoid crushing any when possible. Use of a lice comb can be helpful but if not available reuse the flea comb to help remove anything left behind.
• Use a sterile saline solution or an antiseptic solution (such as povidone-iodine or chlorhexiderme) to clean the area and/or any wounds. I prefer Skintegrity that I buy for my own first aid cabinet but a diluted betadine will work too. Vetericyn makes an antimicrobial wound cleaner as well. Refrain from using peroxide if possible. Peroxide will damage good tissue as well. However if you must then be sure to follow it with a sterile saline solution to help stop it from going on further than the surface.
• Bathing with an antiseptic or insecticide solution is usually not recommended. The whole procedure can be stressful for the rabbit, and often can cause panic which may lead to heart attack or shock. Yes, those are the absolute worst case scenarios but they can happen. However if a bath is absolutely necessary, then afterwards the rabbit should be dried with a towel and a hair-dryer or it can be placed under a heat lamp until dry.
• ***The heat from the lamp or hair dryer will at least help bring the remaining worms to the surface of the skin! Making it easier to remove and discard any remaining larvae.
• If eggs or larvae were removed then you can stop and skip this step but if theres any chance that there are some left then it's best to use an insecticidal solution
Aberrant migration brings the larvae deep under the skin or in vital organs. Three options are available here:

• Injection of ivermectin
0.4mg/kg, SC (0.18 mg/lb, SC)

• Injection of doramectin
0.5 mg/kg, SC (0.23mg/lb, SC)

Ivermectin in laboratory studies works faster but both will work efficiently

***The rabbit must be closely monitored as the dying larvae excrete a toxin that can be fatal to animals.

• Surgical removal, under anesthesia, in case of aberrant migration or infection

Use of antibiotics is indicated, if the myiasis infection is severe. They help fight a secondary bacterial infection of the wounds and prevent sepsis, which can be fatal in rabbits.

The administration of non-steroidal pain medication is necessary (e.g. meloxicam, carprofen). Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS), such as aspirin, carprofen, flunixin meglumine, and meloxicam are able to decrease swelling and inflammation. The potency of different NSAIDS varies with each drug, dose and type of pain. Rabbits require high dosages of aspirin, but it can be a very effective analgesic. It can be administered at home, but should be used only under veterinary supervision. Caution should be exercised if NSAIDS are used for very long time periods because they may produce negative side effects in the gastrointestinal tract and the kidneys.

Rabbit Safe NSAIDS 〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️
Aspirin:
•100 mg/kg PO q12-24h
•100 mg/kg PO q12-24h
•20 mg/kg BW PO sid (equivalent to 600-mg dose in humans)
•100 mg/kg BW PO, try q4h
•400 ml/kg BW SC, PO sid
Do not give to dehydrated, hypovolaemic or hypotensive paties or those with GI disease. Do not give to pregnant animals or animals less than 6 weeks old.
〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️
Carprofen:
•2-4 mg/kg SC q24h or 1.5 mg/kg PO q24h
•2-4 mg/kg SC sid, 1.5 mg/kg PO bid
•1-5 mg/kg PO q12h or 2-4 mg/kg SC, IV q24h
•2-4 mg/kg SC q24h
•1.5 mg/kg PO
•1.5 mg/kg BW PO bid
Should not be given to dehydrated, hypovolaemic or hypotensive patients or those with GI disease or blood clotting abnormalities. Use with care for animals with renal disease. Do not give to pregnant animals or animals less than 6 weeks old
〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️
Flunixin Meglumine:
•Analgesia: 1.1 mg/kg SC bid
•Analgesia: 0.3-2.0 mg/kg once daily to q12h for no more than 3 days; PO, deep IM
•1.1 mg/kg BW SC, IM, try q12h

〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️
Meloxicam:
•0.3-0.6 mg/kg PO/SC sid-bid
•0.2-0.3 mg/kg SC, IM q24h or 0.2-0.5 mg/kg PO q12-24h
〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️〰️
Depending on the severity and discomfort, an affected rabbit may stop eating and drinking. If this happens the rabbit shpuld be handfed and administered subcutaneous fluids to prevent dehydration as well as hepatic lipidosis which can be fatal.
Nutri-rescue can come in handy as it provides nutrients as well as pro/prebiotics.
If vet assistance is available they can prescribe a motility drug or an appetite stimulant to help in this situation.

Often though if the rabbit is heavily affected by myiasis, euthanasia should be considered. I understand for many terminal culling is a last resort but in severe cases it is the kindest option.

Now about BOTFLIES

Botflies are parasitic insects that seek out mammals to lay their eggs on. This can happen to any mammal basically. The larvae start small, burrow under the skin, eat and grow, repeatedly until they get huge. Typically you notice the breathing hole first. It looks like an abscess with a decent size hole in the middle of it. I've included a photo for reference. However sometimes a hole isnt visible. It can just look like a crusty lump or abscess.

To remove:
The best way I've found is to smother the hole in particular with petroleum jelly. If you can't see a hole, cover the whole lump with a thick layer. Regardless the larva is coming up somewhere to breath. The petroleum makes it difficult so they have to expose themselves to get air. When they come up you gently grab them with small forceps or tweezers and pull them out as carefully as possible. Do not crush them! Crushed they release a toxin. So it's important just to be gentle. After removal I use a syringe and a 50/50 peroxide mix to flush the abscess. Do this until no bubbles are present. Then flush twice with a saline solution. Apply original formula neosporin without pain relief. Do this daily.
If it looks infected you may need to give antibiotics. I also advise giving ivermectin too.

Pic for attention

***All content is based on my own experiences. I am a long time rabbit caregiver and breeder. I have a background in rabbit husbandry, study and research as well as being a hobby botanist. I use holistic treatments whenever possible on myself as well as my animals.
I am not a medical expert or a veterinarian. Any medical treatments is best discussed with your veterinarian before proceeding. It can be dangerous to treat symptoms without diagnostic tests. Understand that using my posts as medical advice is your own decision. Any treatment can cause side effects that may result in death. That goes for any thing.

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