What are the opening hours?

Monday 9am - 9pm Tuesday 9am - 9pm Wednesday 9am - 9pm Thursday 9am - 9pm Friday 9am - 9pm Saturday 9am - 9pm Sunday 9am - 9pm

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Fatt Rabbit Farms, Indianapolis, IN (2025)

Bunnies will not be held without a 50% non-refundable deposit. If deposit is not received by the next day of our verbal agreement, the Bunny will go back up for adoption. If the bunny isn't picked up by reserved date, ALL monies will be forfeited and the bunny will go back up for adoption. A ready date is always estimated for our kits. All balances are to be submitted by that date unless otherwise

agreed upon or final balances need to be submitted no later than 48 prior to our agreed pickup, whichever of these come first as not all rabbits are kits that leave my premises. Usually each buyer has ample time to find transportation or pick up. I will allow 30 days from the time they are ready for you to pick up before I will place back for sale. (But again balances are to be paid in full by the ready date, not pick up date) This applies to the kits that are still in the grow out pens. Otherwise pick up date is the date we have agreed upon. If you need an extension of our care you will expected to pay average costs of boarding (dependent on current market) unless its otherwise agreed upon. We should not be expected to have and keep cage space open for a purchased bunny awaiting your pick up. We will work with transporters as long as the meeting place is within 30 miles of our location. We may be able to meet further but there may be fees involved to do so. However we do not guarantee care or health of the rabbit once it's been handed over to any other party. All bunnies will come with a care sheet. transition bag of food as well as a little hay to get you started. Pedigrees are only given if specifically stated. I do not pedigree pet rabbits under any circumstances. I do have other starter packages available upon request for certain fees. Some options do have small starter cages. If you can NOT care for your bunny or have a life changing situation please contact us right away and we will be glad to help you find it a proper home. With any pedigreed rabbits we do reserve the right to buy them back at the same price sold before you are given leave to rehome them elsewhere. If we refuse and you do rehome them then we are to be given that parties information.
****Please note that we are always willing to take our bunnies back without a refund if you feel you just can not care for the bunny for one reason or another. Some of our breeds require extra care. We do not recommend these breeds for beginners. English lops, Velveteen lops as well as any of our Angoras require more upkeep and care than some other breeds. English Lops definitely require more care than regular breeds and tend to be more sensitive to changes. Continuous research on any breed will only benefit you and your bunny. They can live to be 10-12 yrs old and require love, attention and commitment. Keep that in mind before you decide if a rabbit is right for you. Also we personally do not recommend any rabbit as a child's pet. They are cute but rarely cuddly and children tend to have different expectations then what that reality is. Most of our rabbis enjoy attention and love pets but very few bunnies regardless of breeder actually enjoy being picked up. If you do decide still to purchase a bunny for your child regardless of my attempts to persuade otherwise, understand that YOU the parent are the one adopting/purchasing said bunny from us and our expectations are that YOU will ultimately be responsible for it's care. Fatt Rabbit Farms is not responsible for any bunny after they have left our care. We also can not guarentee the showing and breeding capabilites of the rabbit you choose. We do our best to pair our bunnies with the best owner for them though. We do have the right to refuse a sale at any time for ant any reason. If we decide not to complete the sale after a deposit has been given then we will refund the monies paid. This is solely at our discretion. Please private message (PM) or e-mail us if you have any questions or concerns regarding our sales policy. By applying the deposit, you agree to our Sales Policy. This sales policy is subject to change at any time without notice. All sales are final. No refunds, exchanges, or returns! A 50% non-refundable, non-transferrable, deposit is required to hold rabbits for ANY length of time, meaning even if it's only a few days before your desired pick up. Deposit will be applied to the total amount due. Rabbits not being held by a deposit will be sold on a first come, first served basis. In the event that something happens wjile in our care to the deposit rabbit we will replace it with a comparable rabbit or work something out, at our sole discretion. Any requests for additional photos or photo updates prior to purchase will be accommodated as our schedule allows, but cannot be guaranteed as we are quite busy. Photos from our page and website, as well as additional photos that are provided must not be distributed without our consent. Payment methods:
We accept cash in person preferred, PayPal but only under friends and family as we've had previous customer cancel a payment after pickup. We may have other apps upon request but will NOT accept checks, cashiers checks or money orders. We certify that to the best of our knowledge and belief any rabbit we sell is healthy, free of disease, and free of disqualifications*. All rabbits are sold with up to date pedigrees (unless being sold as a pet) or unless we state othereise. We make no guarantees of any kind, including, but not limited to, how juniors will develop, future breeding abilities, and how any rabbit will place at a show. Older rabbits may not be in show condition. We accept no liability for the health of the animal once the rabbit has left our care. We are not responsible for the care given by another individual. It is the buyer’s responsibility to check, or have an agent check, every animal carefully before purchase (or ask any and all questions if shipping).
*Unless otherwise noted at time of sale, or sold as brood/breeding stock or pet. All rabbits sold are entered into our database and must retain the tattoo and prefix given to them (Fatt Rabbit Farms FRF or other depending upon original breeder). If the rabbit is a junior or has not been named (tattoo number shown after prefix) you may request a name change in our system. If no request is received, or the rabbit has had offspring, the name on the pedigree will remain its formal name and may not be changed. (Adapted, with permission)
By putting a deposit down you are agreeing to this policy in its entirety. By purchasing you are agreeing that we determined the bunny healthy before leaving Our rabbitry.

05/23/2025

Spina Bifida and Other Neural Tube Defects in Rabbit Kits: Detailed Overview

Neural tube defects (NTDs) like spina bifida and anencephaly are rare in rabbits but can occur—and when they do, they often leave us breeders with more questions than answers. In some cases, multiple affected kits may appear in a single litter, making it even more concerning.

Here’s a detailed breakdown of what causes these issues and how to reduce the risk in future litters.

What Are Neural Tube Defects?
Neural tube defects occur when the spinal cord and surrounding structures fail to form or close properly during early embryonic development. This process normally occurs around day 10–12 of gestation in rabbits. Defects can range from mild deformities to severe exposure of the spinal cord (as in spina bifida), often leading to early death or euthanasia.
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Specific Examples:
• Spina Bifida:
This defect, also known as myelomeningocele, involves an incomplete closure of the spinal column, leaving the spinal cord exposed. In rabbits, spina bifida can be associated with other congenital defects like harelip, cleft palate, and kyphosis.
• Anencephaly:
This is a severe NTD where the brain and skull are incompletely formed, often resulting in stillbirth or death shortly after birth.
• Meningocele:
This involves a protrusion of the meninges (membranes surrounding the brain and spinal cord) through a defect in the skull or spine.
• Other NTDs:
In rabbits, other less common NTDs can include vertebral anomalies like hemivertebrae, scoliosis, lordosis, and kyphosis.
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Known and Suspected Causes:

1. Folic Acid Deficiency
• Folic acid is essential for DNA replication and neural development.
• Deficiency in the mother during early gestation is one of the leading causes of neural tube defects in many species, including rabbits.
• Even subclinical deficiency can have serious consequences.

2. Genetic Predisposition
• Mutations affecting folate metabolism or neural development may be recessively inherited.
• Inbreeding or close linebreeding increases the chance of expressing these hidden traits.
• If kits with NTDs show up more than once in the same breeding line, genetics should be strongly considered.

3. Environmental Toxins or Medications
• Some dewormers, antibiotics, or even mold toxins in old feed can be teratogenic (cause birth defects).
• Exposure during the first 2 weeks of pregnancy is especially risky.

4. Heat Stress and Other Maternal Stressors
Heat or emotional stress during early pregnancy may seem unrelated—but they can have surprising downstream effects:
• Reduced blood flow to the uterus, depriving embryos of oxygen and nutrients.
• Disruption of hormonal balance, interfering with implantation and growth.
• Impaired absorption of key nutrients, including folate.
• Elevated maternal body temperature, which can directly damage delicate neural tissue.

5. Infections
While rare in rabbits, some maternal infections could interfere with embryonic development and contribute to fetal malformation or loss.
Examples of infections and how they may affect development:
While this area is still not as deeply studied in rabbits as in some other species, here's what we do know (or strongly suspect):

-Encephalitozoon cuniculi (E. cuniculi)-
• A microsporidian parasite that can cross the placenta.
• Known to infect fetal tissues and may contribute to brain, kidney, or spinal defects.
• May not cause symptoms in the dam, or she may just show mild neurological signs or increased thirst/urination.
• Can cause resorption, stillbirth, or neurological deformities in kits.

-Toxoplasma gondii-
• Rare in domestic rabbits, but zoonotic and potentially transmitted via contaminated hay, water, or f***s.
• Can cause early embryonic death, fetal resorption, or deformities.
• Risk increases if rabbits are housed outdoors or exposed to cat f***s.

-Listeria monocytogenes-
• Found in spoiled feed or hay, especially silage.
• Can cross the placenta and lead to abortion, fetal malformations, or stillbirth.
• Also dangerous to the doe—can cause sepsis or neurological signs.

-Pasteurella multocida-
• While more known for respiratory disease, systemic infection in does could reduce uterine blood flow or cause indirect harm to developing embryos.
• May not cause NTDs directly but could increase the risk of early pregnancy failure or developmental problems due to fever and inflammation.

--Other Suspect Infections
• Staphylococcus spp. or E. coli from reproductive tract infections could compromise uterine environment, though not typically linked directly to NTDs.
• Myxomatosis and rabbit hemorrhagic disease (RHD): more relevant in areas where wild rabbits or unvaccinated animals are present. These tend to cause miscarriage or fetal death, rather than specific malformations.

How Infections Harm Development
• Disrupting maternal immune balance
• Causing fever or inflammation during critical developmental windows
• Reducing blood flow to embryos
• Interfering with nutrient delivery, especially folate and oxygen

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Prevention Tips for Future Litters

Support Maternal Nutrition
• Ensure the doe gets a folate-rich diet starting before breeding and continuing through the first 2 weeks.
• Good sources: dark leafy greens (dandelion, parsley, kale, plantain).
• Consider adding a 400 mcg folic acid supplement weekly if diet is questionable.
• Feed a balanced pellet with fortified B vitamins and quality hay.

Avoid Inbreeding or Closely Related Crosses
• If NTDs show up, avoid repeating the same breeding unless you’re testing for a recessive trait.
• Introducing new genetics can help reduce hidden genetic risks.

Minimize Early Gestation Stress
• Avoid travel, loud noise, or moving cages.
• Provide cool, shaded housing—especially in summer months.
• Use frozen bottles, fans, or ceramic tiles to keep breeders cool.

Avoid Medications and Toxins in Early Pregnancy
• Don’t deworm or use **herbal remedies or tonics** unless absolutely necessary.
• Any medication should wait unless deemed essential or life saving.
• Keep feed fresh and mold-free. Avoiding mycotoxins is really a no brainer but felt the need to stress it.

If You’ve Already Seen This in a Litter
• Track which kits were affected—were they clustered? Did others die early?
• Record the breeding pair for future reference.
• Cull affected kits humanely, and consider culling breeding pairs from programs if repeated issues occur.
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**Here’s a list of herbs to avoid or use with caution during early pregnancy, particularly due to risks of teratogenicity (birth defects), uterine stimulation, or nutrient depletion:

Herbs to Avoid in Early Rabbit Pregnancy
1. Strong Uterine Stimulants
These can cause contractions, interfere with implantation, or disrupt early fetal development:
• Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium)
• Black cohosh (Actaea racemosa)
• Blue cohosh (Caulophyllum thalictroides)
• Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris) – also mildly neurotoxic
• Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare)
• D**g quai (Angelica sinensis) – uterine tonic
• Rue (Ruta graveolens) – potent emmenagogue and toxic in high doses

2. Herbs with Known Teratogenic or Hormonal Effects
These may affect fetal development even without causing contractions:
• Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) – contains thujone, potentially neurotoxic
• Thuja (Thuja occidentalis) – contains thujone; abortifacient
• Comfrey (Symphytum spp.) – pyrrolizidine alkaloids may affect fetal liver/cell division
• Sage (in excess) – high doses may affect hormones and uterine tone

3. Detox or “Cleansing” Herbs
These can stress the liver/kidneys or flush nutrients needed during gestation:
• Dandelion root (strong doses) – gentle in leaves, but root is more detoxifying
• Burdock root – diuretic and detoxifying; best avoided in early pregnancy
• Red clover (large amounts) – mild estrogenic effects; small forage amounts usually safe, but caution with concentrated use.

Safer Herbs to Support Pregnancy (In Moderation)
These are generally considered gentle and nutritive if used in modest amounts:
• Oat straw – calming, mineral-rich
• Nettle leaf – high in minerals and folate
• Chamomile – mild sedative, anti-inflammatory (small doses only)
• Plantain (broadleaf) – nutritive and folate-rich
• Alfalfa – high in calcium, protein, and B vitamins (watch calcium if overused)
Tip:
Even safe herbs should be given in moderation during early gestation, especially in concentrated or dried forms. It's always safest to stick to fresh forage-style amounts rather than strong infusions or tinctures during the first 2 weeks.

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Neural tube defects are heartbreaking—but with careful breeding, attention to nutrition, and awareness of stressors, we can reduce the risk in future generations. Sharing experiences and knowledge helps strengthen responsible breeding practices for everyone.
Feel free to share or copy this post for your rabbit communities. I've included as much information as I could. I keep adding tidbits, wanting to cover all my bases. If you feel I've overlooked something or you'd like me to detail any aspect further, please let me know.

05/21/2025

❇️❇️❇️❇️Urine Burn/Urine Scald❇️❇️❇️❇️

The ammonia in a rabbit's urine acts as a skin irritant, causing rashes or even red raw-looking skin. Prolonged exposure to any moisture can also trigger a urine burn.

Treatment steps:
The key to clearing urine burn up is constant maintenance. When you notice your rabbit's skin, most likely around their private area or bottom, become reddish and inflamed, begin treatments to soothe and condition the skin asap.

1. ,Clip away any urine-soaked and/or matted fur. We want to remove anything that will retain moisture or keep moisture close to the issue area. Except for fur on feet! Never remove fur on feet as that is the only thing providing their feet any protection!

2. Cleaning and disinfection is next. A butt bath using a bit of liquid soap in the water. A few drops of dawn in the butt bath works well. Avoid Gain though. No need to scrub. Just gently wash the area with your hand to help remove any urine, poo or other bacteria containing residue. Pat the area dry as much as possible. Do not rub as rubbing may result in further removal of skin or tissue. Finish up with a dryer on low or no heat, if the rabbit will let you. If not, then dont force it, you don't want to stress the rabbit out further.
*Microfiber towels are good for patting dry.

3. Next is a skin protectant. Using Sudocrem to help in soothe the inflamed raw skin is a good next step and it acts as a barrier. This product also has antiseptic properties that reduce opportunity for infections.

■Other creams to use include: silver sulfadiazine cream (such as Smith & Nephew), Flamazine cream, A&D original ointment, Neo-predef (relieves inflammation & pain), Panalog, Heal-X, among others .

■Petroleum jelly/Vaseline is also an option. Apply Vaseline on the affected skin to create a barrier over the skin to help prevent further scalding.

●OTC First Aid/Urine Burn/Skin Protectant options :

▪︎Neosporin Original (NOT PLUS)- topical ointment that fights infection and provides a barrier to the skin to allow for healing. Basically any triple antibiotic will work just ensure its WITHOUT pain reliever. The pain reliever in these products can be deadly toxic to rabbits. It's best to use the ointment vs the cream. The ointment is oil based and will help with blocking moisture 😉

▪︎Heal-X - topical ointment with excellent anti-inflammatory and antimicroial properties.

▪︎Sudocrem - topical cream for soothing inflamed skin and providing a barrier against irritants.

▪︎Corn starch can help when trying trying to remove moisture from the area

▪︎Neo-predef - topical powder that is excellent for inflammation and helps to relieve pain. Rx required.

▪︎Silvadine - topical cream that is soothing and excellent as an antibiotic and great for minor cuts or dermatitis issues. Rx may be required. Similar may be available otc

▪︎A&D Original Ointment - topical ointment used to treat diaper rash and as a soothing skin protector (MUST BE ZINC FREE)

▪︎Panalog - topical ointment that acts as an antibiotic and fights itching and inflammation (aka sulfodenpe)

***While zinc oxide can be very helpful & fast acting it should never be used if there's a possibility of ingestion. And unless you're dealing with a severely disabled rabbit you should assume all others can reach the other.

DIY Salve mix

Ingredients/Amounts
- Chloramphenicol : 1 gr
- Cod liver oil : 15 gr
- White vaseline : 60gr

Measure it and combine. Mix well. Refrigerate at least until set. You can store in the refrigerator or in a cabinet. Just not in hot areas.

Natural options:

Rescue Cream - made by Rescue Remedy, topical cream for treating skin conditions such as dry skin, urine burn and rashes

Calendula Cream - topical cream that uses organic ingredients to promote healing and hydration for a variety of skin conditions

Bag Balm - topical ointment that softens and heals dry, irritated skin while protecting it from further damage

We personally recommend Neo-predef and Silvadine if possible. Neo-predef adheres to even moist skin well and very quickly relieves inflammation. Apply Neo-predef or corn starch after every butt bath (which we usually do in the evenings so as to leave the powder to work overnight). Silvadene is great for soothing the skin and helping it to heal but any of the above mentioned ointments will help. Try putting a thin layer of A&D ointment over the top of the Silvadine to lock it in and to keep urine from scalding the skin.

05/05/2025

💠💠💠💠💠COCCIDIOSIS💠💠💠💠💠

Coccidiosis is a common and worldwide protozoal disease of rabbits. Rabbits that recover frequently become carriers. There are two anatomic forms: hepatic caused by Eimeria stiedae, and intestinal caused by E magna, E irresidua, E media, E perforans, E flavescens, E intestinalis, or other Eimeria spp. As many as 25 species of coccidia have been observed in the gastrointestinal tract of a rabbit. It should be noted that Eimeria sp. parasites are highly host, organ and tissue specific and do rarely represent a zoonotic danger for human beings.

Transmission of both the hepatic and intestinal forms is by ingestion of the sporulated oocysts, usually in contaminated feed or water. Oocytes are shed in the f***s.

Lifecycle
The parasite has a life-cycle, which lasts 4 to 14 days. It starts after oral ingestion of food contaminated by oocysts. The oocyst wall will be broken down in the stomach and spores will be released. The presence of biliary and pancreatic enzymes in the duodenal portion of the intestine stimulates the spores.
After actively entering the cells lining the intestinal wall, the spore will start to divide asexually during one or more stages (schizogony). "Merozoites" (stage of development) will be released to infest other cells of the intestinal mucosa. The final stage of schizogony leads to the formation of gametes, enabling sexual reproduction. Oocytes are shed in the f***s.

The asexual and sexual stages differ often in their location, organ and tissue specificities.

The presence of coccidia will affect the hosting cell; some are inhibited in their function, other are hypertrophied (cell enlargement that causes organ enlargement). Induced villi atrophy will lead to malabsorption of nutrients, electrolyte disbalance, anemia, hypoproteinemia, and dehydration due to the epithelial erosion and ulceration.

I think this life cycle information is so important for breeders to understand. Because of how it's contracted, the life cycle and symptoms. So when people are having issues with kits under 4 weeks having diarrhea and dying it's not likely to be coccidia related....though that always seems to be everyone's first thought. Just remember that kits really don't start eating cecos til they are 2-3 weeks old and for kits that's how it will likely be contracted. Then add that time with a full life cycle...symptoms aren't going to start presenting right away normally either. So more or less you're looking at 4-6 weeks old as being typically start of symptoms.

Hepatic Coccidiosis

SYMPTOMS
-listlessness
-thirst
-enlarged abdomen
-wasting of the back and hindquarters
-On abdominal X-rays, the liver and gall bladder appear enlarged.
——-Affected rabbits tend to look bony but potbellied.

Severity of disease depends on the number of oocysts ingested. Young rabbits are most susceptible. Affected rabbits may be anorectic and have a rough coat. Hepatic coccidiosis is most often subclinical, but growing rabbits may not make normal gains. Infrequently, death may follow a short course. Rabbits usually succumb within month after a severe experimental exposure.
At necropsy, small, yellowish white nodules are found throughout the hepatic parenchyma. In the early stages, they may be sharply demarcated, whereas in the later stages they coalesce. The early lesions have a milky content; older lesions may have a more cheese-like consistency. Microscopically, the nodules are composed of hypertrophied bile ducts or gallbladder.

Diagnosis of this form of coccidiosis is based on the gross and microscopic changes, along with demonstration of the oocysts in the bile ducts. An impression smear of a lesion in the liver examined under light microscopy often reveals oocysts. The oocysts may also be demonstrated by f***l flotation. It is important not to confuse the oocysts with the normal yeast (Cyniclomyces guttulatus), which is commonly seen in f***l examinations.

Treatment is difficult, and control rather than cure is expected. Sulfaquinoxaline administered continuously in the drinking water (0.04% for 30 days) prevents clinical signs of hepatic coccidiosis in rabbits heavily exposed to E stiedae. However, it may not prevent the lesions. Sulfaquinoxaline may also be given in the feed at 0.025% for 20 days, or for 2 days out of every 8 days. ***A single oral dose of sulfadimethoxine at 50 mg/kg, followed by its inclusion in drinking water at 3.8g/Gallon or 1 g/Liter for 9 days***, was found to significantly reduce f***l oocyst count. Because feed-grade sulfaquinoxaline can be difficult to obtain, liquid sulfaquinoxaline is used more commonly. Withdrawal time is 10 days for rabbits used for food.
Other coccidiostats that may prove to be effective include:

amprolium (9.6% in water or 0.5 mL/500 mL), salinomycin, diclazuril, and toltrazuril/ponazuril. A single oral dose of toltrazuril at 2.5 mg/kg or 5 mg/kg has also significantly reduced oocyst count. Treatment is best administered for a minimum of 5 days and repeated after 5 days.

Sulfonamide and trimethoprim antibiotics have proven efficacious in the treatment of coccidiosis. They should only be used to cure the disease, never as a preventive measure. Using coccidiastats as preventatives are the reason some are no longer working effectively. sulpha drugs include:
· sulfamethoxazole/Trimethoprim is given orally at 14 mg/lb or 30 mg/kg every 12 hours for 10 days

· sulphadimethoxine (the most recommended out of the sulpha drugs) in drinking water: 2-2.5 g/gallon is tolerated particularly well by pregnant & nursing does. ***In a prior paragraph above I have detailed another dosage for all others. But this particular dosage works best on mild-moderate infestations as well as on the immune compromised.

· sulphaquinoxaline in drinking water: 4 g/gallon

· sulphadimerazine in drinking water: 7.5 g/gallon

Treatment length of these sulpha drugs (unless stated otherwise)-Given 5 days on/5 days off/5 days on. Minimum. I recommend repeating another cycle if you're having a severe infestation. Sulpha drugs are great in the aspect that they work well and have little if any side effects however they are prescription meds. The only way I've found around that is the sulfamethoxazole/trimethoprim can be bought in tablet form in aquatics without script.

When treating I advise using probiotics for a week following. These medications tend to wipe out the gut flora, both bad and good. It's best to help balance it with a good probiotic.
Treatment will not be successful unless a sanitation program is instituted simultaneously. Elimination of f***l-oral transmission of infective oocysts is achieved by preventing feed hoppers and water crocks from becoming contaminated with f***s. Hutches should be kept dry and the accumulated f***s removed frequently. Wire cage bottoms should be brushed daily with a wire brush to help break the life cycle of the protozoa. Ammonia (10%) solution is lethal to oocysts and is the best choice to disinfect cages or ancillary equipment exposed to f***l material.

>>Meat breeders should keep in mind the length of time it takes for medicine to leave the body thus making the rabbit safe to eat. For example with Corid the withdrawal time is only 24 hours after last dose where as toltrazuril despite research testing can vary from 2-3 months or more. So typically I only advise toltrazuril on pet or brood rabbits only.

Intestinal Coccidiosis

-Symptoms:
rough coat
dullness
decreased appetite
dehydration
loss of weight
profuse diarrhea (4 to 6 days post-infection)
**If the loss of weight reaches 20%, death follows within 24 hours. Death is preceded by convulsion or paralysis

This form of coccidiosis can occur in rabbits receiving the best of care, as well as in rabbits raised under unsanitary conditions. Typically, infections are mild, and often no clinical signs are seen. In early infections, there are few lesions; later, the intestine may be thickened and pale. Good sanitation programs that can eliminate hepatic coccidiosis do not seem to eliminate intestinal coccidiosis. Intestinal coccidiosis is generally diagnosed by f***l flotation and microscopic identification of the oocysts (species). It is important to distinguish coccidian oocysts from the nonpathogenic yeast Cyniclomyces guttulatus that can also be found in large numbers. Treatment is similar to that for hepatic coccidiosis except that sulfaquinoxaline is given for 7 days and repeated after a 7-day interval.

-During necropsy, inflammation and edema are found in the ileum and the jejunum portions of the intestine. It is sometimes accompanied by bleedings and mucosal ulcerations.

Prevention

Branches and leaves rich in tannin (willow, hazelnut, oak, ash, fruit trees, eventually pines) are excellent in preventing coccidiosis. Before a rabbit is given a twig to chew, it is important to check that it’s picked from a tree that is not toxic to rabbits. Furthermore, the tree must not have been exposed to chemicals or pollution from busy roads.

Many antiparasitics give instructions on prevention dosages. I don't recommend using them for prevention. As with any medicine the body builds an immunity to it causing it to eventually be useless. Only use medication when there's an issue.

04/22/2025

Working with the Vienna gene-

The gene responsible for creating the blue-eyed white is called the Vienna gene and is expressed in genetic code as vv. The gene isn't dominant nor is it considered simply recessive by many, owing to it's ability to lay hidden for generations. Technically it is a recessive gene (just not simple) but it can be passed to the next generation and displayed without breeding to another recessive gene holder.

Breeding-
When you breed a BEW (Blue Eyed White) to another BEW you'll get 100% BEW. The Vienna gene works the same in all breeds of rabbits. But BEW works very similar to a REW in the way it can mask other present color alleles.

When you breed any color beside BEW to BEW, they will produce either of the following: Vienna Marked (VM) or Vienna Carriers (VC). A VM or VC is expressed in genetic code as Vv. Both are genetically the same. They both carry only one Vienna gene. The difference lies completely in appearance. A VM is a rabbit that you can look at and clearly see he carries the gene because he will have white “marks” on in places there shouldn't be any white or blue eyes might be present or both. Examples can vary from as little to a white paw, or white toenails, or white nose, or a white blaze to as much as the rabbit coat containing so much white that it appears broken in appearance. A VMs eyes can be bright blue, marbled, violet or even brown. A VC has no visible markings but can pass the vienna gene on to it's offspring. A VC looks just like any other rabbit not carrying the Vienna gene. Being VC also means it can be shown as long the rabbit meets SOPs. A VM cannot. A BEW can be shown as long as they are recognized in your breed of choice.

Vienna Gene stats:

1. BEW (vv) X BEW (vv) = 100% BEW (vv)

2. BEW (vv) X "Normal (VV)" = 100% VM or V (Vv), 0% BEW (vv)

3. Vienna Marked or Carrier (Vv) X Vienna Marked or Carriers (Vv) = 25% BEW (vv), 50% Vienna Marked/Carriers (Vv), 25% "Normal" (VV)

4. Vienna Marked/Carrier (Vv) X BEW (vv)= 50% BEW (vv), 50% Vienna Marked/Carriers (Vv)

5. Vienna Marked/Carrier (Vv) X "Normal" (VV) = 50% Vienna Marked/Carriers (Vv), 50% "Normal" (VV), 0% BEW (vv)

Remember those are just statistical averages.
When breeding for Vienna Marked rabbits its best to avoid breeding the broken gene into your program. By doing so you can make differentiating markings extremely difficult. This is also why it's advised not to use the White Ear gene. Some VM rabbits can display white ears without the WE gene. So if the WE gene is present in your breeding, determining where the ears came can be impossible without test breeding. And frankly you don't want to sell a rabbit as a WE VM if it isn't.

If you're trying to determine whether your rabbit is VV or Vv (vienna carrier):
You may have to test breed a few times, but breeding it to a known VC or a VM will eventually tell you whether it is or isn't (theoretically speaking by averages).. A non vienna rabbit will never be able to produce a BEW. If after a few litters you haven't produced any BEW then the possibility of it being VC drops dramatically.

**I hope this explanation helps but I'm no genetics expert. Just the basics. I explained the best way I was able, in the most basic terms possible.

04/18/2025

Shepherd’s Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)
AKA
Lady’s Purse, Poor Man’s Pepper, Mother’s Heart, Pickpocket, Cocowort

This post has been a long time coming. I love doing these posts but they take me quite a bit to put together.
Shepherd’s Purse has been on my “must talk about” list for a while, mostly because it’s one of those unassuming little w**ds with a huge list of uses—especially when it comes to bleeding and wound care. But like a lot of wild plants, the more I dug, the more I found.

It might not look like much—just another little roadside green—but don’t let its humble size fool you. Shepherd’s Purse has a long history of being a go-to herb in herbal medicine cabinets around the world. And yes... it’s another one that shows up in the yard uninvited and ends up being more helpful than most of the stuff we try to grow on purpose.

🐰🐰As always, rabbit uses are included, just scroll down a bit.

PLANT DESCRIPTION

Shepherd’s Purse is a fast-growing, cool-season annual that thrives in disturbed soils—roadsides, fields, gardens, even sidewalk cracks. If you've ever seen a w**d with little white flowers and those distinctive heart- or purse-shaped seed pods, chances are you’ve met it already.
The leaves are most edible in the early spring, much like dandelion or chicory greens. The seedpods add a peppery taste to stir fries and salads. Historically, the vitamin K–rich plant was used for all manner of internal and external blood regulation.

Growth: 6–18 inches tall
Leaves: Rosette at the base (can resemble dandelion greens), with smaller, simpler leaves up the stem
Flowers: Tiny, white, 4-petaled, blooming in clusters at the top
Seed Pods: Flat, heart-shaped (like little coin purses—hence the name), each about the size of a grain of rice
Roots: Small taproot, easy to pull
Taste/Odor: Slightly peppery or bitter

It grows everywhere—literally worldwide—and often pops up early in spring or persists through mild winters. If you forage, you’ll probably spot it before you even go looking for it.

CONSTITUENTS
Vitamins & Minerals: Vitamin C, Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphorus, Iron, Zinc, Manganese

Compounds: Flavonoids (apigenin, quercetin, kaempferol), Choline, Acetylcholine, Tannins, Sulfur-containing compounds, Polypeptides, Saponins, Sinigrin (a glucosinolate)

Alkaloids & Acids: Fumaric acid, Bursinic acid, Bursinic aldehyde, Amines (including tyramine and histamine)

MEDICINAL & THERAPEUTIC ACTIONS

Internally (tea, tincture, capsules):
- Styptic: Stops internal bleeding (esp. uterine, GI, and urinary tract)
- Astringent: Tightens and tones tissues
- Diuretic: Promotes urine flow
- Anti-inflammatory: Soothes irritated tissue
- Vasoconstrictor: Narrows blood vessels to reduce bleeding and swelling
- Cardiotonic: Slightly strengthens/tones the heart
- Uterine tonic: Supports and tones uterus, especially postpartum
- Antibacterial: Mild activity against pathogens
- Emmenagogue: Stimulates menstrual flow if sluggish (used cautiously)

Externally (poultice, wash, salve):
- Stops bleeding from cuts and wounds
- Reduces bruising and swelling
- Useful for hemorrhoids, varicose veins, nosebleeds
- Traditional eyewash for inflammation (diluted infusion)

FOLK & WORLDWIDE USES / ETHNOBOTANY

Shepherd’s Purse has been used in European, Asian, and Indigenous healing traditions. Common uses include:
- Postpartum bleeding in Europe
- Wound poultices in multiple cultures
- Nosebleed and menstrual treatment in Traditional Chinese Medicine
- Urinary support in Native American medicine
- One of Japan/Korea’s traditional spring herbs for health and renewal
- Battlefield herb used in wartime to control bleeding

HUMAN USES
1. Bleeding (Topical & Internal): Postpartum bleeding, Menorrhagia, Hemorrhoids, Nosebleeds
2. Uterine Support: Tones and contracts uterus postpartum or to regulate menstrual flow
3. GI Support: Mild diarrhea, GI inflammation
4. Urinary Tract: UTIs, cystitis, bedwetting, urinary urgency
5. Skin & External Uses: Bruises, burns, sore muscles, varicose veins, rashes
6. Cardiovascular: Folk use for mild hypertension and capillary fragility

🐰RABBIT USES🐰

Shepherd’s Purse isn’t one of the more commonly discussed herbs in the rabbit world, but hopefully that’s changing. Its properties make it a potentially useful addition to the natural first-aid or supplemental toolkit—especially for breeders, homesteaders, and anyone dealing with reproductive cycles or GI stress.

1. Bleeding (Styptic Use):
- May help in minor bleeding episodes like small wounds or nosebleeds.
- Anecdotally used postpartum to reduce bleeding and promote uterine recovery.
- Cold tea or powdered herb could be applied topically in emergencies.

2. Uterine & Reproductive Support:
- May assist uterine tone post-kindling.
- Some breeders report using weak tea to support postpartum healing and expel retained kits.
- Should be used with caution in pregnant does or not at all due to potential uterine stimulation but can be applied topically in most cases.

3. GI Support:
- Mildly astringent—may help with loose stools caused by inflammation.
- Does not stimulate gut motility like dandelion or plantain.

4. Other Considerations:
- Introduce slowly and in moderation.
- Not recommended for long-term use.
- Observe carefully for individual reactions.

**Cavies will eat it when diarrhea is present but typically will avoid at others time because of the astringent nature of the plant.

HARVESTING, RECIPES & PREPARATION METHODS

Harvesting Tips
- Harvest in early spring or fall when the plant is young and tender.
- Best picked before the plant flowers fully—this is when the energy is still in the leaves and roots.
- For medicinal use, the whole aerial plant (stems, leaves, flowers, and seed pods) is typically used.
- Use scissors or pinch at the base of the stem, avoiding roots if you want it to regrow.
- Dry in small bundles upside down in a well-ventilated, dark area. Once dry, store in a sealed jar or paper bag out of direct sunlight.

Tea (Infusion)
Use 1–2 tsp dried herb or a small handful of fresh chopped plant per 1 cup of hot water. Steep for 10–15 minutes. Strain and drink warm or cool. This tea can be taken 2–3 times a day to support urinary health, reduce bleeding, or used as a wash or compress externally.

Tincture
- Fill a clean glass jar halfway with chopped fresh plant (or 1/3 full with dried).
- Cover with vodka (at least 80 proof), shake well.
- Let sit for 4–6 weeks in a dark place, shaking occasionally.
- Strain and store in amber bottles.
- Dose: typically 10–30 drops up to 3x daily for adults (adjust accordingly for animal use).

Poultice
Mash fresh herb (or rehydrate dried) into a paste using a mortar, pestle, or blender. Apply directly to the skin and cover with gauze or cloth for bleeding, bruises, or swelling. Change every few hours as needed.

Compress/Wash
Soak a clean cloth in cooled Shepherd’s Purse tea and apply to wounds, hemorrhoids, or inflamed areas. Can be used on eyes (diluted) or for postpartum care.

Storage
- Dried herb: Store in a glass jar out of light and moisture. Lasts about 1 year.
- Tincture: Lasts several years if stored in a cool, dark place.
- Tea: Use immediately or refrigerate and use within 24–48 hours.
- Poultice: Make fresh each time for best results.

Here are a few food recipes I found while searching that sound tasty lol.

Edible Recipes Using Shepherd’s Purse

1. Shepherd’s Purse Soup
A traditional Korean-inspired soup (Naengi Guk)
Ingredients:
• 1 cup fresh Shepherd’s Purse, cleaned and chopped
• 1 small onion, diced
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 egg (optional, beaten)
• 3 cups water or mild broth
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Sesame oil (optional)
Instructions:
• Bring water or broth to a boil.
• Add onion and garlic; simmer for 5 minutes.
• Stir in Shepherd’s Purse and cook for another 3–5 minutes until tender.
• If using an egg, stir it in slowly while stirring the soup.
• Add salt, pepper, and a dash of sesame oil to taste.

2. Shepherd’s Purse Rice Cakes (Naengi Tteok)
A seasonal Korean side dish
Ingredients:
• 1 cup glutinous rice flour
• ½ cup blanched and finely chopped Shepherd’s Purse
• 1 tsp sesame oil
• Salt to taste
• Warm water as needed
Instructions:
• Mix rice flour with chopped greens and a pinch of salt.
• Gradually add warm water to form a soft dough.
• Form small cakes or balls and steam for 10–15 minutes.
• Drizzle with sesame oil before serving.

3. Shepherd’s Purse Stir-Fry
Ingredients:
• 1–2 cups fresh Shepherd’s Purse, chopped
• 1 garlic clove, minced
• 1 tbsp oil (olive, sesame, or your choice)
• 1 tsp soy sauce
• Dash of vinegar or lemon juice
Instructions:
• Heat oil in a skillet and sauté garlic until fragrant.
• Add Shepherd’s Purse and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes.
• Drizzle with soy sauce and a splash of vinegar or lemon juice before serving.

4. Shepherd’s Purse Dumpling Filling
Ingredients:
• 1 cup finely chopped Shepherd’s Purse (blanched and squeezed)
• ½ cup chopped mushrooms or ground meat (optional)
• ½ tsp sesame oil
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• Salt and pepper to taste
• Dumpling wrappers
Instructions:
• Mix all ingredients into a uniform filling.
• Place small scoops into wrappers and seal.
• Steam, pan-fry, or boil until cooked through.

5. Shepherd’s Purse Omelette
Ingredients:
• 2 eggs
• ¼ cup finely chopped Shepherd’s Purse (lightly blanched)
• Salt and pepper
• Oil for pan
Instructions:
• Beat eggs and mix with chopped greens, salt, and pepper.
• Pour into a hot, lightly oiled pan and cook until set.
• Fold and serve with a drizzle of soy sauce or hot sauce if desired.

Sources & References
• Duke, J.A. Handbook of Medicinal Herbs, CRC Press – for detailed phytochemical constituents and medicinal actions.
• Peterson Field Guide to Medicinal Plants and Herbs (Eastern/Central North America) – for field ID, traditional and current herbal uses.
• PubMed Database (pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov) – for clinical studies and documented pharmacological effects of Capsella bursa-pastoris.
• Botanical.com (A Modern Herbal by Maud Grieve) – for historical herbal practices and folk medicine notes.
• Materia Medica Resources from practicing herbalists including David Hoffmann, Michael Tierra, and Rosalee de la Forêt – for use profiles and preparation guidance.
• Ethnobotanical references from Korean traditional medicine and East Asian wild food use – for culinary and seasonal applications.

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