06/05/2025
Let the Dog Choose: Understanding What Dogs Truly Find Rewarding
Imagine this: you come to me after a job well done and say, “Simon, here’s your payment… in stamps.” I’d tell you – quite politely, of course – to get on your bike. Yes, technically stamps are legal tender, but let’s not pretend I’m going to frame them and feel rich. I want cold, hard cash. Or, better still, a nice fat bank transfer. Why? Because that’s what I find rewarding. That’s what motivates me.
Now, let’s flip it back to the dog. If you’re reaching into your pocket and handing over a dry, crusty dog biscuit from the supermarket as a reward for good behaviour, and your dog’s just about tolerating it – taking it slowly, sniffing it, maybe even spitting it out – then let me be blunt: your payment method is rubbish.
A reward only works if the recipient sees it as valuable. And value is in the eyes (or nose) of the beholder.
Dogs Choose, Not You
When it comes to reward-based training, you don’t decide what the dog finds rewarding. The dog does. You’re not paying yourself – you’re paying them. So it’s up to us as handlers and trainers to figure out what our dogs genuinely enjoy, what gets their tail wagging, their ears up, and their eyes sparkling with engagement.
Let’s be real: dogs don’t all go mad for the same thing. Some will sell their soul for a bit of sausage. Others would ditch a sirloin steak just to chase a ball. Some are touch-sensitive and adore a fuss, while others would rather be left alone. It’s your job to observe, experiment, and listen to what your dog tells you.
The Reward Hierarchy
Much like us preferring a pub roast over a stale sandwich, dogs have a reward hierarchy. Some things are “meh”, others are “wow”, and a few are “OH MY DAYS YES PLEASE!” And that hierarchy can change depending on the context – training environment, energy level, even weather.
Build your dog’s hierarchical reward system. This means:
• Low-value rewards: Kibble, dry biscuits – useful for repetitions or calm exercises.
• Mid-value rewards: Cheese, ham, tug toy – great for moderate distractions.
• High-value rewards: Liver cake, roast chicken, squeaky ball, flirt pole – saved for jackpot moments or when the world around is buzzing with distraction.
Use this hierarchy wisely. Don’t spend caviar on a sit indoors – save that for when your dog comes flying back to you in the middle of a field full of squirrels.
Make the Mundane Magical
If your dog is food-motivated (and let’s be honest, most are), use their daily food allowance wisely. Stop pouring it into a boring bowl and calling it a day. That’s the equivalent of direct-depositing your wages straight into a savings account you never touch. Make your dog work for it, earn it, and most importantly – appreciate it.
Hand-feed during training, use scatter feeding in the grass, load up a puzzle toy or use it in a sniffy game. Suddenly, your dog’s “boring” kibble becomes something they engage with. They start to work for it, value it, and focus more during your sessions.
Get Vertical About It
Your reward system shouldn’t just be horizontal – a one-size-fits-all approach. It should be vertical, layered, and flexible. Think of it like climbing a ladder: start at the bottom, and only go higher when the challenge increases. Save the big guns for when you really need to get their attention.
And just like humans, dogs can get bored of the same reward. Variety is the spice of life – rotate between food, toys, affection, games, and sniff time. Keep things fresh. Let your dog’s body language tell you what’s working and what’s not.
Final Thought
Training isn’t about bribing. It’s about paying fairly for a job well done. But if your reward system is out of sync with what your dog values, you’ll soon find your ‘employee’ losing motivation. Respect your dog’s preferences. Watch, learn, adapt. Because when you start rewarding in their currency, that’s when training truly becomes a partnership.
Now go on – find out what your dog really wants. And please… no stamps.
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