Pawsitive Dog Training

Pawsitive Dog Training Dog training in Fairbanks Alaska We provide education for dogs and their owners with an emphasis on positive reinforcement.

08/14/2025

Hey, AKC Scentwork has openings for Sunday Aug. 17th. Beginners is at 1:00pm. Intermediate level 2 is at 2:00pm and level 3 advanced is at 3:00pm. There is a trial coming up in town Sept 26, 27 and 28th. Sniffing is the best thing a dog can do! Come join the fun!!

Revised Class Schedule.  We had a few times wrong.  Oops!
08/06/2025

Revised Class Schedule. We had a few times wrong. Oops!

New Class Schedule!!  Come have some fun with your furry family member!
08/05/2025

New Class Schedule!! Come have some fun with your furry family member!

07/29/2025

The Problem: Odor Isn't Always Where You Think It Should Be
In elevated hide scenarios with air movement, dogs often:

Work "the arc" of pooled odor downwind or laterally

Check objects with odor on them but not coming from them

Appear to be in odor for a long time without sourcing

This isn't failure, it's actually correct behavior if the dog is working scent logically.

->How Dogs Learn to Triangulate
Experience with Drift = Pattern Recognition
Dogs learn over time that odor at elevation doesn't always present from below. They learn it can drift, drop, and wrap depending on:
- Airflow
- Thermals or HVAC
- Items such as furniture, Obstructions, and walls
- Type of floor surface

Repeated exposure to drifting and arcing (Odor Rainbows as Caroline Kobe Oldham calls them) scent cones helps dogs start using movement and sampling to predict the source point.

They go from “it smells strong here but not there” to “I’ve smelled this pattern before, it’s probably up high over there.” They bracket to attack it.

->THE KEY: Handler Support Without Interference
Handlers play a key role:
- Don't crowd or redirect during the arc phase
- Let the dog map the odor field
- Encourage re-engagement with the area after a pass, especially when they’ve checked multiple drift points or angles without success
- Picking a pattern and staying committed to working that versus working the dog

*** A well-timed pause or reposition at a clean angle can help without stealing the dog's problem. Support them solving it, don't just solve it for them. ***

-> Training Progression: Build the Triangulation Skill
Use a hide that forms an "Odor Rainbow" (e.g., elevated on a post or shelf with airflow behind it). Then:

Phase 1 – Teaching the Drift Picture
- Let the dog explore the arc freely
- Observe and watch as they move toward the origin of odor
- Use accessible elevated hides first (4’ or so) with minimal cross-contamination

Phase 2 – Reward Only for Sourcing
- Reward only at the true source (not at the odor “cloud” or arc)
- Use known environmental anchors/bumpers (walls, pillars) to help guide their odor mapping
- Let them fail and re-approach, this builds the odor understanding and anticipation (be mindful of frustration)

Phase 3 – Proofing with Complexity
- Add competing objects and surfaces that catch odor
- Hides at various elevations and locations where odor collects in misleading ways
- Use environmental setups where working back is the only route to source

-> Dogs Learn Through Pattern Exposure, Not Repetition
Let the dog build their own database of odor behavior. The more they encounter odor arcs, scent curtains, lofted cones, and downward drifts, the more confidently they’ll:
- Work the arc
- Pause
- Reorient
- Climb the scent ladder back to source

Your Training Mantra:
Let them learn the air flow. Let them learn the wall. Let them learn the climb.

You can try and teach triangulation. The best approach is to build the conditions where the dog discovers it themselves.

This post was inspired by my friend Gary Strickland. Hopefully I did it justice.

07/28/2025
The best muzzles
07/27/2025

The best muzzles

07/18/2025

Why Your Dog’s Zoomies Aren’t Solved by a 10-Mile Hike: The Real Key to Balanced Behaviour

You walk them for miles. You take them to daycare. You throw the ball until your arm’s falling off. And yet, your dog still chews the skirting board, barks at invisible things, or pings around the house like a pinball machine on Red Bull.

Sound familiar?

You’re not alone and you’re not necessarily doing anything wrong. But you might be doing too much of one thing and not enough of something else.

Let’s unpack this, shall we?

Dogs Aren’t Tired, They’re Wired

There’s a common myth in the dog world: “A tired dog is a good dog.” And like many myths, it contains a grain of truth, but also a whacking great misunderstanding.

Think of your dog as a professional athlete. If you take a sprinter and have them train flat-out every single day, without recovery, they’ll end up injured, burnt out, and grumpy. The same applies to your dog. When you constantly ramp up physical activity in an effort to “wear them out,” all you’re doing is building stamina. And guess what? That just means they’ll need even more exercise to reach the same level of fatigue.

Eventually, you’ll run out of hours in the day or energy in your own legs and your dog will still be bouncing off the walls.

Overtired = Over the Top

Dogs get overtired. Not “had a lovely run and now ready for a nap” tired, but overtired like a toddler who missed their nap and is now shrieking at the cat because the wind changed direction.

Here are a few red flags:
• They can’t settle, even when it’s quiet.
• They’re jumpier or more sensitive than usual.
• Training goes out the window, they just can’t concentrate.
• They’re gnawing your furniture like it’s made of chicken.
• They pant, pace, and just can’t seem to switch off.

An overtired dog is often mistaken for a dog that needs more exercise, when in fact, they desperately need a break, both physically and mentally.

Exercise Is Only One Slice of the Pie

Don’t get me wrong, walks, runs, and playtime are important. But they’re just one piece of the behavioural puzzle. The other vital elements are mental stimulation and rest. Without those, all that physical activity just tips them into overstimulation territory.

Mental work is underrated. Dogs were bred to think, herding, guarding, scenting, hunting and when they’re not given anything to work out, they’ll invent their own “fun” (read: bark at leaves, dig to Australia, rearrange your cushions with their teeth).

Engaging the brain is exhausting, in a good way. Fifteen minutes of solid thinking, like problem-solving or scent work, can tire a dog out more than a hour walk. It’s like Sudoku for spaniels or brain yoga for bulldogs.

Train the Brain, Not Just the Body

Want a dog that settles calmly in the evening instead of bouncing around like a furry pinball? Teach them to pause.

Impulse control training, like long ‘stays’, calm ‘downs’, or the almighty ‘place’ command, helps your dog learn that being still and quiet can be just as rewarding as chasing a tennis ball. It’s the dog equivalent of mindfulness.

You’re not just draining energy. You’re teaching them how to manage it.

Add to that some puzzle toys, scent games, or trick training, and you’ve got a recipe for a mentally satisfied, behaviourally balanced dog. And no, I’m not talking about turning your living room into an agility course. A cardboard box full of scrunched-up newspaper and treats can do wonders.

Rest: The Most Underrated Dog Training Tool

Now for the bit most owners overlook: rest.

Dogs need a lot of sleep. Most adult dogs need around 12–14 hours a day, and that’s not including their “I’m just chilling here with one eye open” downtime. Puppies and older dogs need even more.

Without proper rest, your dog becomes overtired and overstimulated and suddenly the naughty behaviours you thought exercise would fix start cropping up again.

Make sure your dog has a safe, quiet space, a crate, a mat, or a comfy corner, where they can properly switch off. And no, snoozing under the dining table while the kids do handstands doesn’t count.

Build rest into their routine deliberately. After training or walks, guide them to their rest spot. Reinforce calm behaviour. Treat relaxation as a skill, not just a luxury.

Balance Is Everything: A Sample Routine

Let’s put it all together. A well-behaved dog isn’t the result of being walked into the ground, it’s about balance. Here’s what a more well-rounded day might look like:
• Morning: 20-minute walk + 10-minute scent game + enforced rest.
• Midday: Light training (impulse control or trick work) + puzzle toy.
• Afternoon: Short play session or another walk + cool down + rest.
• Evening: Calm activities (lick mat, chew, massage) + wind-down time.

Mix it up based on your dog’s age, breed, and energy levels, but always include rest and mental work alongside physical activity.

The Bottom Line: Stop Trying to Outrun the Problem

More exercise isn’t always better. Sometimes, it’s like pouring petrol on a fire, especially if you’re ignoring the mental and emotional needs of your dog.

Instead, aim for balance. Work the body, stimulate the brain, and protect rest like it’s sacred. This triad, physical activity, mental engagement, and rest, is the real holy grail of dog behaviour.

Your dog doesn’t need longer walks. They need better structure.

And a nap.

Possibly after some nosework and a game of “find the biscuit under the flowerpot.”

Because calm doesn’t come from exhaustion, it comes from balance. And once you get that right, you’ll have a dog who’s not just tired, but content.

And that, my friend, is the real goal.

www.k9manhuntscotland.co.uk



07/11/2025
07/05/2025

Just a reminder
No classes this weekend. Have a great holiday!

Address

3304 International Street
Fairbanks, AK
99701

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