29K9 Dog Training

29K9 Dog Training Certified in training, behavior, aggression, reactivity. Ronda Warywoda, CPDT-Ka, UW-AAB
Helping you to build an amazing relationship with your dog.

Ronda Warywoda CPDT-KA, UW-AAB
A Navy wife for 20 years (he's now retired), project manager for public works & military 25 years, I bring a perspective of learning to adapt in unfamiliar worlds. Applied Animal Behavior - University of Washington
Family Dog Mediation
Aggression in Dogs - Master Course
AKC Canine Good Citizen
UKC SPOT
Fear Free Certified
Problem Solving
Owner Trained Service Dog Program
Pet Photography
Be A Tree Presenter

Sometimes something will happen and a dog may struggle where they never had before.  After losing Gibbs, and then a week...
06/02/2026

Sometimes something will happen and a dog may struggle where they never had before. After losing Gibbs, and then a week later hubby left town for several days, I realized that RuhRoh had begun to struggle if she was alone in a room. She was suddenly whining or following me everywhere. She used to snuggle with Gibbs all the time. At first it didn't seem to be an issue, but then hubby left town and that seemed to be the last straw. When he got back home she continued to struggle if one of us wasn't in the same room with her.

We had to make some adjustments to make things better for her. If we both are gone then we leave her in the same room as Jeepers, but they are still separated so that his rambunctiousness doesn't accidentally hurt her hip. Per camera feeds, this seems to be working if we both have to leave. There are times, tho, that she has to be alone in the living room while I am busy elsewhere. So I brought out Faux Beau, the life sized stuffed dog you may have seen me post about when working with fearful puppies. I placed him laying on the sofa and this did the trick. Now RuhRoh is able to relax and chill with him for company.

If you realize that your dog is struggling when they weren't before then it's time to check things out and make adjustments. A vet visit may be in store and a trainer or behavior consultant may be able to help you pinpoint what is going on and how to help your dog. In this case we had a very definite cause/effect and were able to quickly adapt for her.

06/01/2026

his week's freezer fill. Oatmeal, canned dog food, apple sauce, green beans, carrots and chicken feet. RuhRoh handled this week's Quality Control check, which was a great chance to reinforce her ability to wait patiently. Remember, these calories count! We adjust their meals to allow for frozen enrichment. A little bit of extra weight makes a huge difference to a dog's over all well being and long term joint health.

It's been 10 years since we Copyrighted the 29K9 program.  We continue to update the program as science evolves and we l...
05/31/2026

It's been 10 years since we Copyrighted the 29K9 program. We continue to update the program as science evolves and we learn, but our core stays the same. Do the best you can until you know better. Then when you know better, do better -- Dr Maya Angelou.

Watch the hands.  For some dogs, they can be quite triggering.
05/21/2026

Watch the hands. For some dogs, they can be quite triggering.

Let’s talk about the “magica hand.”

Well meaning people reach out their hand so a dog can sniff and make friends. For some dogs, that is fine. For others, it is the fastest way to get bitten.

A reaching hand can:
• Feel invasive
• Reduce distance
• Corner the dog
• Predict restraint

Some dogs have learned that biting makes the hand go away quickly.

A better option:
Allow the dog to approach if they choose.
Ignore them until they initiate affiliative behavior.
Watch body language carefully.

And if:
🚫 You are unsure about what you are seeing
🚫 There is a bite history
🚫 Handling is not necessary

Walking away is the safest choice.

Preventing bites is often about reducing unnecessary pressure.


Dog Illustrations by The Drawables, Owned By: Liz V.

05/21/2026

.It took me about 10 minutes to make a week's worth of freezer enrichment. Keeping it healthy this week is squash, oatmeal, canned food, applesauce & animal crackers and carrots. Remember, these calories count and meals are adjusted accordingly.

A few minutes here and there is all you need.  Long, structured sessions can be boring for both you and your dog but a f...
05/19/2026

A few minutes here and there is all you need. Long, structured sessions can be boring for both you and your dog but a few minutes here and there can help build your relationship as well as strengthen their reliability.

Training sessions don’t have to be formal or rigid. In fact, we prefer "training as you go" because it feels more natural and helps integrate your dog’s learning into everyday life.

We all have busy lives, but that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t make time to train our dogs.

By incorporating training into regular activities, you not only reinforce positive behaviors, but also strengthen the bond between you and your dog, making learning part of your daily routine.

This way, training becomes something effortless and enjoyable, rather than another task on your to-do list!

05/18/2026

Amazing demonstration of Cooperative Care. Imagine that if they can use reward based training to achieve this with a hippo what you can do with your dog or cat!

05/11/2026

“Never punish the growl.”
But absolutely punish the bark, correct the lunge and zap the hell out of fear.
Because that's ok you can call that "training".

WRONG!

Growling is communication.
Reactivity is communication.
It’s the same message, just louder because nobody listened earlier.

But in some training worlds:
Dog feels fear - Dog expresses fear - Dog gets punished - Dog goes quiet- Trainer celebrates.
Client posts a “before & after.”
Internet applauds. 👏👏👏

Meanwhile, the dog learns:
“When I warn, bad things happen.”
“Next time, skip the warning.”

Suppressing behavior doesn’t resolve emotion, it bottles it.
And bottled fear doesn’t fade.
It waits.
Then one day it’s,
“He bit out of nowhere.”
“No warning at all.”
“We never saw it coming.”

You did.
You just trained it out.
At Paw & Order, we don’t punish dogs for being honest about their limits.
We don’t confuse fear with disobedience.
And we don’t trade warning signs for aesthetics.
Punishing communication doesn’t make dogs safer.
It just makes the damage quieter.
And quiet fear is the most dangerous kind.

05/10/2026

DON’T TOUCH MY STUFF!
Resource guarding – also called possessive aggression

We all guard our resources, it’s a natural reaction to a threat of something we value being taken away.

It’s essential for survival and dogs or other animals would not survive in the wild if they didn’t guard their resources.

We also don’t get to decide what’s valuable and what’s not – different things have different value to different dogs and at different times.

Food is usually the most common, but toys, furniture, different items, places, or even a certain person are all things that may be seen as a valuable resource.

A dog turning their head away, freezing, a hard stare, whale eye, moving away, growling or snapping may quickly escalate into a serious bite in an attempt to protect that valuable possession.

Punishing or forcing a dog to give something up is probably one of the worst things to do.

Resource guarding is rooted in the emotion of fear – the fear of that resource being taken away.

Punishment and force further increase that fear, which only increases and reinforces the need to protect that resource.

When a dog is guarding food or an object, we can change the negative emotion of that fear into a positive one by swopping or trading something that has a similar or higher value than what the dog has.

This is one of the most effective ways to address resource guarding of objects as it works at the root cause of the behaviour by changing the emotional response.

A dog resource guarding a person is more complicated to address. A full history of the individual dog, family dynamics, attachment styles, situation and environment all have to be assessed before planning and working on a solution.

Resource guarding can usually be prevented, managed and addressed and by starting early, understanding why dogs feel the need to resort to this behaviour and doing what we can to prevent it from happening in the first place.

Resource Guarding is one of the most common reasons I am contacted.  Most humans unintentionally make it worse by trying...
05/07/2026

Resource Guarding is one of the most common reasons I am contacted. Most humans unintentionally make it worse by trying to show the dog who is boss rather than addressing the underlying need the dog has to protect their resource (whether it's food, a toy or the human). Just because this is actually a pretty common and typical behavior, it doesn't mean it shouldn't be addressed as it is a safety issue.

Dogs can show aggressive behaviour when protecting items they percieve as valuable, but please understand....

Your dog is not trying to show you who's boss" that idea is outdated and scientifically incorrect. Resource guarding is a NORMAL, species-typical behaviour [1]. Animals that protected vital resources were more likely to survive, and that history is part of your dog's biological make-up.

On top of that, resource guarding can be unintentionally reinforced every time the behaviour produces an outcome the dog seeks. When a dog growls as a communication signal and the person moves away, the behaviour has been successful, so it gets repeated. That's associative learning, not a character flaw [2].

For some dogs, anxiety or insecurity around losing access to something important adds fuel to the fire, though this varies from dog to dog. Not every dog that guards is anxious (many have a well-practised behaviour that reliably works for them), but where fear or insecurity is part of the picture, it shapes how you need to approach it.

It's NOT dominance!!

If you are sitting down to your favourite meal and someone reaches across and puts their hand in your plate, or tries to take your food, you are going to object. Does that mean you are trying to dominate them? Of course not. You are protecting something you value which is a completely normal response for any species.
And if that same person offered you something you wanted more (a hundred dollars, your favourite bottle of wine) you would probably hand it over without a second thought. Dogs work in a similar way.

Resource guarding does not always look dramatic. Dogs communicate in layers, and the early signals are easy to miss. You might notice your dog eating faster the moment you approach, going very still and tense, hovering over the item, or positioning themselves between you and whatever they have. A hard stare, stiff body, flattened ears, or a tucked tail are all part of that communication too.

These signals tend to follow a pattern. Early on, you might notice nothing more than your dog going still or eating faster as you approach, easy to miss, and easy to dismiss. From there, signals become clearer… a lowered head, ears back, body stiffening, hovering over the item. It's only when those signals are repeatedly missed or ignored that a dog moves into an overt threat display (hard stare, growling, lip lift) and eventually, if nothing changes, into snapping or biting. The escalation is not sudden. It builds, and the earlier you notice it, the more options you have. See the infographic above for a visual breakdown of the four escalation stages.

This is also why children and regular visitors add an extra layer of risk. They are often less able to read those early, subtle signals, which means a dog can go from low-level guarding to a bite with very little warning from a human perspective.

Punishment makes it worse!

Using force or punishment to address resource guarding tends to make things worse and does not ‘correct’ the behaviour you think you are teaching [3].

It increases anxiety and can escalate the behaviour. There's also a more specific problem with correction and intimidation-based methods… punishment can cause a dog to learn that growling is not safe, so they stop doing it. That sounds like progress, but it's not. The underlying emotional response is still there. The warning communication has just been suppressed [3]. Next time someone approaches, there may be no growl, no warning signal, and no opportunity to move away before a bite happens.

Practical Tips…

First, managing the environment to reduce opportunities for the guarding behaviour to be practised while training is underway, because a behaviour that keeps being repeated keeps getting stronger [2].

Second, using systematic desensitisation (gradual, below-threshold exposure) paired with counter-conditioning to change how the dog feels about people approaching their resources, not just what they do [4].

Teaching a reliable, rewarded trade is a good training tool in this process, as well as dropping a treat on the floor towards the dog every time you walk past to begin building a positive association with your presence. Over time the dog learns that someone approaching does not mean threat or loss, it becomes a predictor that something good is coming.

If you have a puppy, resource guarding is much easier to prevent than to address later. Teaching a young dog early that a person approaching while they have something good always predicts something even better, and is an easy habit to build from day one.

Walk past your puppy while they have something valuable and drop a high-value treat near them without stopping or reaching for what they have. Over time, your puppy learns that people approaching means good things happen, not that something valuable is about to be taken away [1].

If resource guarding is something you are dealing with, especially if there are children in the home, I would strongly recommend working with a qualified behaviourist or force-free training professional in your area. 🐾

[1] Donaldson, J. (2002). Mine! A Practical Guide to Resource Guarding in Dogs.

[2] Pryor, K. (1984). Don't Shoot the Dog.

[3] Herron, M.E., Shofer, F.S., & Reisner, I.R. (2009). Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesired behaviours. Journal of Veterinary Behavior, 4(2), 47–54.

[4] Overall, K.L. (1997). Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals.

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