COME, SIT, STAY Canine Etiquette

08/21/2025

NOT ALL BARKS ARE CREATED EQUAL! Can you distinguish between your dog/s' various reactive barks & a "bark cycle"?? There is a difference. If we train our "hearing" to the nuances of our dog/s' barking & other vocalizations, we can learn to recognize the differences between our dog/s' alert for a person, a dog, a squirrel, another animal, a vehicle, mailman, UPS or trash truck, etc. Do not take your dog/s' barking & vocalizations for granted. Learn the nuances because they can tell you so much that can serve many important purposes.

Once you have "fine tuned" your hearing to these aspects of your dog/s' vocalizations, there is one more variance that requires a bit more "fine tuning". This is what I call the "bark cycle". This is different from barking in response to an "active" external catalyst like squirrels playing, a tree trimmer across the street, a neighbor loading or unloading their car or working in their yard...something that continues to "stimulate" your dog to bark in response to what is occurring.

The "bark cycle" occurs when the catalyst is or becomes "static". This can be a different truck parked across the street, a piece of cardboard that has blown against the fence, the neighbor's trash cans at the curb, another dog or cat "sunning" in your dog/s' line of sight . When your dog notices something NEW in their environment, they bark. This is to alert you/their pack & also to try to get the intrusive whatever to leave.

When the dogs are barking at something static...after the first barks, their barking takes on an almost "sing song" pattern. Once your dog gets into this pattern, it is hard for them to stop without help from you to "break" their bark cycle!! The longer this cycle continues the more the dog can become entranced/trapped in the behavior. Remember, barking is self reinforcing.

You know your dog/s' regular/active barking that is "responsive" to an "active" catalyst by changing the tone, volume, intensity, etc. to match the active/changing catalyst. Most people need to train themselves to recognize their dog/s' "bark cycle" that is sort of a rhythmic/sing song "repetitive" pattern. Take a moment to disrupt it & it will end. Here is the link to my BARKING article/chapter: http://www.thedogspeaks.com/artbarking.htm (www.thedogspeaks.com)

08/20/2025

EXCESSIVE BARKING: Barking is a self reinforcing behavior. The hardest thing for an owner is to "not" yell NO BARK! This is essential because when yelling we sound like another barking dog. What happens when one dog barks?? All dogs in the area start barking or increase their barking. So, yelling at your barking dog actually INCITES/fuels their barking. Make a sharp EHHH sound or use some other sudden noise/sound like a metal can with some small metal objects in it. Only shake it ONCE. The sound will cause a "startle/stop" reaction. The sudden sharp sound "startles" the dog and they "stop", momentarily. You have 2-3 seconds to REDIRECT your dog to you, some other activity & away from the catalyst for their barking or they "will" start barking again.

If your dog does not have a reaction to your initial startle/stop noise, try something else that has a different "tone, pitch" that your dog's hearing will react to. Do not "overuse" whatever sound or noise your dog has the "startle/stop" response. If you do, your dog will desensitize to that sound & it becomes no more than "regular noise" in their environment. Whatever your dog's "startle/stop" sound is, use it ONLY once for each episode. Avoid our human tendency to really do it over & over to really "make our point" because it will have the opposite effect!!

Your dog's own barking INFUSES their barking so it feeds itself. The sooner you can startle/stop the bark cycle, the easier it is to divert them to another behavior. The further into the bark cycle your dog gets, the harder it is for them to stop without help from us. This also means it is more difficult for us to help them stop barking. When one dog barks, it will start a cacophony of barking from any dog within earshot! NOTE: Dogs can hear certain sounds up to 7 miles away. SO, when you think your dog is barking for no reason...think again!

When your dog goes out first thing in the morning, they bark to beat the band! Watch their "ritual". You will see what I mean as they alert any dogs & other animals that your dog has arrived & their "turf" is actively being patrolled! This same thing occurs when you let the dogs out when you come home from work. It is especially fervent when the dogs are let out in the evening! Let your dog/s do what they instinctually need to do to keep their pack safe. Let them have their say. Then, calmly get their attention using the sharp EHHH sound or some sound to cause the "startle/stop" reaction & very quickly DIVERT their attention/focus from their barking cycle.

When your dog is barking & reacting to a specific catalyst, DO NOT yell to "no bark" Their hearing is so acute that when you raise your voice, it is like turning the TV up so loud you cannot make out the words. All they will know is their Pack Leader is upset. The dog barks & alerts their pack to an intruder &/or possible danger. Then, the pack leader reacts to the alert & becomes very agitated. The dog does not see this as you being upset at them. They see this as the pack leader is validating that YES, this is something to be dealt with & it is even more serious than you realized! This is a perfect example of thinking you are communicating one thing when you are communicating something reverse!

When working on a barking issue (or any issue), you must be consistent. Once you start a good "no bark" program, when you are not home or available to respond consistently to whatever the external catalyst is, BLOCK the visual. Why? Because every time the dog engages in whatever behavior you seek to stop or modify, that behavior is reinforced by the sheer nature of the behavior having occurred!!

For more "in depth" information, here are links to two Chapters from my E-book that go hand in hand to address barking issues: BARKING: http://www.thedogspeaks.com/artbarking.htm SHAKE CAN: http://www.thedogspeaks.com/artshakecan.htm For other interesting & helpful information, visit my website (www.thedogspeaks.com)

08/16/2025

THE DON'Ts & THE DOS OF MEETING/GREETING A DOG!!! Below is a great infographic of the proper & improper ways to meet/greet a dog. This is so easy to follow & understand. You will notice that some things most people do are a NO NO.

For example, most people know to "let the dog sniff the back of your hand". Problem with that is, the person invariably pushes their hand "toward" the dog's face. This is NOT good. Rather, keep your hand by your side & let the dog come to you on their on time & comfort level & sniff your hand when comfortable. This is when you can gently pet them under their chin or side of the face IF the dog stays there & indicates a level of comfort. Sort of asks you to pet them. If they pull back or away after a short sniff...just wait & give them more time to get comfortable. That is just one example...BUT, all of these the things shown & explained in the infographic are EXCELLENT and spot on!!

08/16/2025

IS YOUR DOG "MARKING" OR "URINATING"...Here is a short excerpt from my E-Book that explains how to determine which behavior your dog is exhibiting:
"First, I need to explain the difference between marking (house soiling issue) and urinating (housetraining issue). When a dog urinates, there is large amount of urine indicating a full
bladder release. If your dog releases their bladder, this is normal urination and indicates your dog is NOT housetrained or there is a medical issue. If there is a small amount of urine emitted, this is marking. The small amount I refer to can be anything from sprinkles to quarter size to half dollar size urine spots. Just because a dog “hikes” on your furniture does not mean they are “marking”. They may well be engaging in normal urination. You would need to determine which behavior your dog is exhibiting and deal with it
accordingly. (Note: Some bi***es lift their leg to urinate!)"

There is a major difference between the two behaviors. Here is an excellent article (AKC) that discusses the marking versus urination behaviors. I think you will find this most informative! Here is the link:

Dogs p*e in the house for many reasons, but they also urine mark. Learn to tell the difference between these behaviors and how to reduce marking.

08/09/2025

JUMPING UP (POGO STICKING) OR REARING UP ON PEOPLE...The dogs do this when excited greeting you or when food is involved or when you are walking through the house or yard or sometimes if you have another dog in your arms or toy or other interesting items in your hands. If food, another dog, toy, or item of interest...the dog is trying to get at that item. When it is the excitement greeting you or you walking through the house or yard...they are wanting you (or whoever) they are wanting to interact with, get attention from.

It is important to deal with the jumping or rearing up behavior!! To do so, you have to understand the emotional basis for the behavior..."attention, interaction, engagement" on some level. It is best to start with this most basic aspect. Now consider the ways most people handle, react to the jumping up/rearing up behavior. They say NO, off, get down, or whatever. They push the dog away with their hands or sometimes use their leg (or knee) to push the dog away or step on their back paws.

ALL of that is giving the dog precisely what they seek...attention, interaction, & engaging them! Granted these things are, on a human level, negative. BUT, they are still providing some type of attention, interaction, & engagement to the dog. For the dogs, just as with children, "negative reinforcement" is nonetheless "reinforcement" of the behavior.

My approach is to NOT provide any form of what the dog seeks. I fold my arms high on my chest & turn my back on the dog. Yes, they will still jump up. But, you do not interact with them in any manner. Remove from them...the very thing the dogs are seeking. Do not physically engage (pushing them away) or verbally engage(telling them no or whatever). Do not even "look" at the dog. I make sure I can still "see" the dog in my peripheral vision because the moment they have "all 4" on the ground I tell them "off, good off" & when possible, have a treat I can give them.

You have to be 110% CONSISTENT, as does every family member & visitor. You have to be so PATIENT & be prepared to "wait the dog out" because it takes a lot time before the dog will manage to get "all 4 on the floor". This is every single time the dog exhibits any form of the jumping up behavior. Further, it take a lot of repetition & consistency to override this "naturally occurring" behavior. We are asking the dogs to NOT DO something that is part of being a dog.

Do not get impatient & decide to yell at them or push them away "just this one time". Any time you break down & do either of these, you have thrown away any progress previously made because you have reconnected the dog to that naturally occurring dog behavior.

Our dogs know they get petted, treats, almost all levels of physical interaction with our "hands"!!! Once your dog has all 4 on the ground, immediately praise &/or reward. Be aware that the moment you do this (in the initial phases), the dog will jump up. You stop instantly & remove your interaction. When my dog deserves a "good boy/girl" & then they break from what have I asked once I start to praise or reward...I stop mid word..."Good bo..". Think of it like someone hits the pause button. At this stage, what they want "stop" in mid praise/reward". Then, the moment they get all 4 on the ground again, you pick up the praise/reward again.

You have to wait for the dog to put the pieces together. "I want attention, so I jump up. That makes ALL attention to cease. But when all 4 paws on the ground...I get attention". That "self made connection/realization" can only be made by the dog. But, they need your help to reach the point of making that connection.

Here is something people often don't realize. When training your dog NOT to jump up/rear up on you & others, but when sitting down you allow your dog to raise up on your legs or lap to get petted. You are creating a contradiction (read confusion) for the dog. You may not realize that since you are not standing up. But, it is still rewarding them for raising up on you. When you are sitting, the only time they get petted or allowed to jump into your lap is when the dog has all 4 on the floor & you then give permission.

My dogs learn to "ask" to be petted or into my lap by gently placing a paw on my leg, that is okay...but, I ask them to "sit" & then I will pet them or give permission for them to jump into my lap. Another common mistake when working on the jumping/rearing up behavior is you are standing & the dog "gently" raises up & you randomly (without thinking) reach down & pet them!!!! Again, you are not being consistent!. (www.thedogspeaks.com)

08/01/2025

WHAT YOU DOG/S' PLAY STYLES CAN TELL YOU ABOUT YOUR DOG...This is a neat article regarding our dog/s' PLAY STYLES & what it can tell you about your dog. I think it will be of interest to many folks!!

Today’s edition of Team K9 Tips is all about uncovering what your dog’s play style is really telling you, and how you can use those insights to help them live their happiest, healthiest life.

The Fetch Fanatic
Dogs who live for fetch tend to be energetic, intelligent, and incredibly reward-focused. The excitement in their eyes when you pick up a ball or stick isn’t just about chasing—it’s about problem-solving, burning energy, and bonding with you. Regular fetch sessions can prevent boredom-driven behaviors like chewing furniture or excessive barking. Skipping this outlet can leave them restless or even anxious. For variety, try swapping balls for frisbees or hiding toys for them to retrieve.

The Tug-of-War Champ
If your pup can’t resist a good tug game, you’ve likely got a bold, playful, and confident dog on your hands. Tug-of-war builds trust and teaches important boundaries, especially when you introduce commands like “drop it.” The physical strength and determination they show often translates into a strong sense of loyalty and a big personality. However, left unchecked, tug games can lead to overstimulation or possessive behavior. Structured tug sessions paired with consistent training—perhaps while wearing a No-Pull Tactical Harness for added control—help keep the game fun while reinforcing good manners.

The Wrestling Wrestler
Does your dog love to tumble and wrestle with other pups? This play style points to a highly social dog who’s comfortable reading body language and enjoys building canine friendships. Wrestling provides both mental and physical stimulation, but it can sometimes escalate if neither dog knows when to stop. Watch for signs like stiff posture or pinned ears that signal overexcitement. To keep things safe, schedule playdates with dogs of similar size and energy levels.

The Gentle Explorer
Some dogs prefer a calmer, more thoughtful play style. They’ll sniff every corner of the yard, investigate new sounds, and enjoy quiet enrichment games rather than roughhousing. These “gentle explorers” are curious, observant, and often more cautious with new experiences. Without mental stimulation, they can become withdrawn or anxious. Hide-and-seek games with treats, slow walks with plenty of sniffing time, or puzzle feeders can make their day brighter.

07/18/2025

READING YOUR DOG'S FACIAL EXPRESSIONS...This is an interesting article & covers a lot of various aspects that may be helpful to your understanding your dog's facial expressions. There are some things I think should also be considered in some of the examples cited.

While the information & descriptions are excellent, I don't think they give enough information regarding the dog's EYES!! This is actually the aspect of a dog's facial expressions that I notice FIRST (whether in person or a pic or video) & get the MOST information from. Yes, the other aspects can add additional information. However, the eyes....they are truly the "windows to their soul"!!!

That said, this article is an excellent starting point to start understanding your dogs better. An interesting aspect that is not mentioned is the dogs can & DO "mimic" OUR facial expressions!!! In the last many, many years...the dogs have actually developed NEW facial muscles (over their eyes). This has occurred because of their mimicking OUR facial expressions. IF this doesn't steal your heart, nothing will!!

Do take time to read this, most people will learn a lot from the information.

It's possible to read dog emotions from their facial expressions, but it's not easy. Learn what to watch for, so you can better understand your dog.

07/12/2025

YOUR DOG/S' AGE IN HUMAN YEARS...The metric has changed!! No longer can we apply the 1 dog year equals 7 human years. Here is an article with an AGE CHART that explains this.

https://www.akc.org/expert-advice/health/how-to-calculate-dog-years-to-human-years/?utm_source=meta&utm_medium=paid&utm_campaign=aff&utm_content=dog-years-bc&utm_id=6367224130233&utm_term=6367224131433&fbclid=IwY2xjawLU0g1leHRuA2FlbQEwAGFkaWQAAAX69ePy0WJyaWQRMUJueE5sdk5hSG1vMjlVMmsBHjqLSG2BmAQxWJGFwXIO3owBAOU_GVmer_WoQ3LxCapXrAR2JNevyx_ZJ54H_aem_S1eWoJv8e-Zqf8YX0k4zzQ&campaign_id=6367224130233&ad_id=6367232915633

Learn how to calculate dog years into human years with this helpful chart, and find out how researchers came up with the numbers.

07/09/2025

ALL DOGS NEED A JOB!! This is more true & necessary than you may think, sincerely! Your dog will be happier & mentally & emotionally healthier. It is also easier than you may think to give &/or teach your dog "a job". For example, think of something your dog already does & it isn't something you taught them to do, they just do it. Take a bit of time & consider how you can change the dynamic of that endeavor. Meaning, redefine what that job means. You may even tweak it a bit. First you would have to attach yourself to the existing behavior, then start some tweaking. Suddenly, it's a JOB to your dog. They do LOVE having a job, especially when the "pay scale" is quite good...LOL!!

Your dog doesn't have to be the next Jessie. But, your dog & you can be happier & have loads of fun together!! My article ALL DOGS NEED A JOB explains a lot about why this is so important & why the dogs love it. I give examples of how you can take different functions, activities, behaviors & redefine them for your dog so they are "a job". I hope you will take a moment to read this article & possibly share it with others. Here is the LINK: http://www.thedogspeaks.com/artjob.htm Below is a video of Jesse, who has really perfected the art of "having a job/s". His first 2 videos can be viewed at the end of this one. Here is the link to Jesse's videos: https://www.youtube.com/embed/PztO-OvzRyg?rel=0

Presenting, Useful Dog Tricks 3!! Whoever said tricks can't be useful? Jesse's back, and this time he tackles chores that most humans wouldn't find enjoyable...

07/04/2025

HAVE A HAPPY & SAFE 4TH OF JULY...I hope everyone will truly consider why July 4th is so important. God Bless you all & may this 4th fill you up with LOVE OF COUNTRY...OUR country...the UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. May God bless the USA. I can loudly proclaim that I am "PROUD TO BE AN AMERICAN"!!!

07/03/2025

HOW TO SAVE YOUR DOG FROM HEATSTROKE...Always err on the side of caution with your dogs in the heat. Keep in mind that even when it may not seem that warm to us, it can dramatically affect the dogs. They do not sweat, except for the pads of the feet. Their ONLY manner of cooling themselves is to pant. Know how to determine if your dog is overheated & the steps to take immediately. My dogs always loved to sun themselves. In the Texas heat & humidity, I watch the clock & set a timer to be safe, so I can bring them inside, even when they want to stay out longer.
Here is a link to an article you may find interesting.

Heatstroke in dogs is a medical emergency that requires immediate veterinary attention. But what are the common causes, symptoms, and treatment? Our vet experts explain everything you need to know about dog heatstroke—and how to keep your pet safe.

07/03/2025

YOUR DOG'S TONGUE IS A KEY INDICATOR OF BEING "OVER HEATED" OR "OVER EXERTED"!! Dogs are only able to "cool" themselves via "panting". When panting, a dog's tongue will hang out of their mouth. Initially, the tongue will just "hang loosely". As their internal body heat increases, the tongue will become more rigid because it swells...especially the last portion of the tongue. At this juncture, you will notice the tongue becoming deep pink to red.

The last portion of the tongue becomes more "rounded & curled upwards" than the rest of the tongue...similar to a spoon. You should pay close attention because your dog is extremely over hearted. This same presentation "can" also occur in cooler temps, but when the dog is "over exerted". When this is occurring, you will also notice the dog's lips pulled back like in a big, wide grin.

This is not a good condition for your dog & you should take measures to allow/help your dog a chance to cool down.
If not, you could face a serious situation. Please watch for the various signs of heat or exertion that can compromise your dog's well being.

You would want to get them into the shade or into the house. Give tap water (temp wise)...ice cold water to drink is not good at this stage. You can use damp towels (or spritz) on the tummy, under the neck, & PAWS...again, the water should be like tap water. FYI: The dog's can only cool themselves to any large degree is via panting. Their paws are the ONLY place the dog's sweat.

CAUTION: When your dog is outside, especially in the sun...even when not overheated & you want to keep them from doing so...DO NOT spritz of put water on their backs. When the back is wet & the dog is in the sun...their back becomes like a SAUNA!!!!!! Use the things mentioned above to help keep them cool. And, above all...do NOT walk your dog on any hard surfaces at all!!!!

SIDE NOTE: If your dog is "not" over heated nor over exerted & is panting heavily, your dog is likely experiencing some physical issue such as discomfort, pain, illness, fever. Also, "extreme" stress or emotional distress can cause this behavior.
(www.thedogspeaks.com)