Freestyle SportHorse Stud

Freestyle SportHorse Stud Freestyle Sport Horses, the perfect place for you and your horse, to achieve your equine dreams. Breaking in, ground work, flat work, jumping, you name it!

offering our service of training all horses in their various disciplines. Aiming to give you riders the best possible chance at achieving your dreams for your equestrian career.

27/07/2026
08/07/2026

Oh yes

08/07/2026

Hi everyone. As some of you may be aware, I have recently taken on a part-time role as Head of Equine Services for the NZVA, and as part of that role, I have been involved in communications with both our veterinary members and horse owners across NZ. I just want to reassure you that we are not concerned about a widespread outbreak, but vigilance is still needed around Thoroughbred horses moving from the Waikato. This little flowchart our team has put together should be very helpful. Thank you to all my Worm-Ed clients for your understanding regarding the postponements of my regular appointments this week. A hot tip is to jump onto the New Zealand Equine Health Association's page for the most up-to-date resources and a tally of properties affected.

28/04/2026

YOU ARE BEING LIED TO ABOUT GRASS LENGTH !!!

Long grass is not lower in sugar and fructan for horses and ponies than short grass in terms of WHAT THEY EAT.

An attention grabbing headline?

Yes! I am getting really frustrated with this persistent nutribaloney that short grass is bad for horses, not suitable for laminitics, not suitable for weight loss or healthy weight maintenance.

This is Simply Not True.

Worryingly, it's not just uneducated people I've heard saying this, or writing it.

Even if short, overgrazed grass IS higher in sugar and fructan and lower in fibre per kilo, it is the TOTAL AMOUNT that the horse eats and the RATE they eat it that matters, not what is in the forage per kilo.

Capitalised because this is the key and why so many horse owners and even vets get this wrong.

Well-or over-grazed, short grass will generally provide more suitable grazing for a good doer or EMS / laminitis prone horse or pony.

On this type of grazing they will get LESS nutrients (less sugar, less fructan, less calories) per hour of grazing compared to the longer, stemmier grass, simply because of how much they can eat.

I cannot tell you how many owners I've had come to me for advice, and reported in my Facebook comments that their horse or pony has piled on the pounds (gained body fat) and sadly in some cases succumbed to laminitis, when they have tried putting them on free choice longer grass.

Now, the horse on overgrazed, sprouting pasture will likely need more fibre e.g. from a strip of the longer stemmier grass and/or supplementary forage like soaked hay BUT! grazing very short grass is sometimes the only way to keep a good doer slim and healthy (if they don't wear a grazing muzzle).

The key is to monitor the individual horse or pony and adjust their grass access from their bodyweight and condition, and any signs of metabolic disturbances or laminitis.

Some take home tips:
> always monitor your individual horse or pony and adjust their grass access accordingly
> never assume that long meadow grass is safe for your horse or pony prone to weight gain and laminitis
> over-grazed pasture with supplementary forage (if out 24/7) is a method used successfully by thousands of owners of good doers and laminitis-prone horse and pony owners
> if you have no option but to graze bottle-height grass (about 3" or 10cm) for overweight horses or ponies, good doers or those prone to laminitis, I recommend using a grazing muzzle (and potentially strip grazing as well)
> always monitor your individual horse or pony and adjust their grass access accordingly (yes, I meant to repeat myself!) - you can monitor their weight and condition (body fat), any signs of laminitis, their gut comfort and their droppings

Feel free to share!
🐴🍏🌱

22/04/2026

Hold that wormer!!!
FECC is recommending putting down the wormer and waiting until late autumn/early winter. In the past we have recommended waiting for the "first frost" we do this because it's an easy visible reminder for horses owners in our part of Australia.
BUT..... we need to wait for consistent cooler nights of zero or below, I know in my region we have had some light frosts but overall nighttime temps are not low enough yet or consistent for worming to start so put down the wormer!!!
Why wait? Because we are trying to target as many parasites as possible for this worming treatment. The parasites listed below are the main targets, but we are also treating parasites not listed.
Bot Flys. We are trying to break the bot fly lifecycle which will lead to a reduction of the adult bot fly population. So, we wait until the entire bot fly population is inside your horse - no longer flying/laying eggs on coat, and they are in the correct place in the gut to be susceptible to the wormer.
Tapeworms should be treated for once a year and waiting till late autumn/ early winter is the lifecycle stage they will susceptible to the worming treatment.
Encysted Strongyles - if present will begin emerging slowly at this time of year and this is preferable. If you worm too early you may trigger a mass emergence which may lead to medical complications.
If you are in warmer areas, northern Australia, tropical areas that dont experience the cooler temps - feel free to message us for advice on what to do in this situation.

Address

255 Tauranga Direct Road RD6
Rotorua
3096

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