Dog Training Dick Staal

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Dog Training Dick Staal

We help you become the best & most sought-after working dog trainer in your area. DM “Tracking video” (of “Speur video”) for a free guide.
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We are a family business specializing in dog training. Dick Staal has developed a training system that is suitable for every dog. We train in a positive way using rewards. https://dogtrainingdickstaal.com

17/06/2026

👇You want to train with toys but your dog doesn’t care for them.

That’s because you haven’t learned how to build DRIVE for toys… yet.

And so – your dog can learn new exercises with food rewards…

But you cannot seem to unlock insane levels of motivation.

(Which is EXACTLY what you need for high stakes missions.)

So here’s how you build ‘toy drive’:

While you’re still training with food…

Add LOTS of play sessions with toys outside of training.

You must always start training with food, but at the same time, get the dog used to WANTING toys.

After a while…

You’ll realize your dog would literally jump into a bush full of thorns for the reward.

(Not that you want that, of course, but that’s the level of desire you need if you want to train working dogs).

If you want to see how I use food and toy rewards in my training…

How to know when to switch from one to the other…

And especially important – WHEN to reward the dog…

I’ll send you my free core video.

Just comment “Core” (of “Basis video” voor Nederlands), and I’ll send it to you ASAP.

15/06/2026

👇How Jason learned basic tracking in one WEEK.

Step #1: The indication behavior.

Almost everyone teaches this LAST, while laying food on the track…

But this is a huge mistake.

If you train this “wrong” way – your dog will look for food, not human scent.

And as soon as the food gets reduced…

Or disappears completely (like in a real mission)...

Your dog might get frustrated and start looking for FOOD!

(Of course, I mean, that’s what you taught it. It doesn’t care for human scent.)

Jason understood this, and so he taught indication in a few days.

Then, he…

2: Back chaining

You create a short track…

Show your dog the object…

And then you let the dog work out the path toward the object.

By day 7, his dog was already working out tracks with a CORNER.

(That’s how fast the Dick Staal signature tracking method works!)

I’m posting this to show you that this method doesn’t just work for me.

It works for everyone who applies it correctly.

I made a new “Mini Indication Course” that shows you EXACTLY how to implement this in 5 days.

You’ll go from 0 to having a reliable tracking foundation (the indication) in just 5 days.

After that, progress becomes easy.

Jason is the proof.

Just comment “Indication” (of “Verwijzen” voor Nederlands), and I’ll send you the link for it.

14/06/2026

How to get the FASTEST send-outs of your life:

With just a few weeks of directional training, you can get incredible results…

… and the foundation is simpler than people make it out to be.

You start with a cone.

Your dog learns to run to it, lie down, and come back to you.

Once that's SOLID, you remove the cone.

But the trick is to focus on speed & motivation at all times.

You do that by alternating the reward and creating an expectation that it might ALWAYS come.

Sometimes the reward is on the way forward.

Sometimes it comes when the dog returns to me.

The dog never knows which one it will be.

That uncertainty is exactly what creates the drive to run forward at full speed every single time.

But most handlers only reward their dog on the way back…

And then shrug their shoulders and wonder why the dog is so slow on the way forward.

Alternate and you’ll fix this problem.

13/06/2026

👇Try THIS training session to unlock 10x motivation in your dog:

Dogs can detect small scent sources very quickly…

But if they’re not extremely motivated, it’s like driving on the highway on low fuel.

Just copy my training session, and you’ll fix low motivation.

Throw a toy hard into the bushes, and have your dog find it.

It will search with a LOT of motivation, because it’s your dog who loves the toy.

And when it finds it…

It will basically reward itself for searching effectively.

Repeat this often.

The more you do this, the better.

Because, again – motivation is super important.

With it, your dog can work methodically and calmly for hours.

Without it… the dog fails when you need it the MOST.

So if you want a working dog that doesn’t get distracted and works with ultimate motivation…

I have the perfect (free!) guide for you.

Just comment “Method” (of “Systeem” voor Nederlands), and I’ll send it to you.

11/06/2026

👇REAL police work tracking scenario.

A suspect's car is found at a parking lot.

Police have been searching the area for hours and found nothing.

And that’s when–

“Ring! Ring! Ring!”

Your phone lights up, and you pick up the call.

You & your dog get to the crime scene in a parking area…

But the problem is that there's no wallet, no object, nothing with the suspect's scent on it.

And dozens of people have already walked through the area, so the ground is covered in
scent trails.

BUT!

There's almost always a way to get the scent.

For example…

The floor mat in the suspect’s car.

The suspect's feet were on it, so his scent is on it.

Your dog gets presented with that scent, and from that moment…

It has to find and follow a track with that scent while ignoring everything else.

This is the kind of scenario that separates trained dogs from truly reliable ones.

If YOU want to have the skill to handle similar situations…

And if you want to see every tactic I use to teach dogs to find people and solve missions like this…

Comment "Guide" (of "Gids" voor Nederlands) and I'll send you a free video.

09/06/2026

Make this CRUCIAL mistake if you want a weak detection dog.

A lot of handlers think guiding their dog means always showing it where to go.

Always helping whenever the dog doesn’t know what to do.

But that will get you a dependent & ineffective dog.

The moment your dog looks at you during a search, and you point it in the right direction…

You've just taught it that looking at you is more useful than using its nose.

Do that enough times, and you no longer have a detection dog.

You have a dog that searches until things get difficult…

… then waits for YOU to solve it.

In a real mission, you won't know where the target is.

So if your dog is waiting for you to show it, I’d say the search is kind of… already over.

Whenever I show the dog where to go (since we always search TOGETHER)...

I make sure to do it when the dog is NOT looking at me for help.

If you want to know exactly how I teach cooperative searching from the ground up…

Comment "Detection" (of "Zoeken" voor Nederlands) and I'll send you a free guide.

08/06/2026

👇If YOUR dog makes “wide” movements while tracking…

And if it’s too crazy and restless instead of being calm and precise…

Just train with a shorter track for a bit.

That’s it.

A 1 meter (or ~3 feet) track, and…

“Track!”, give it the command to search for human scent.

At first, your dog might overshoot and miss the object, but after a few repetitions…

It will understand that:

“Okay, I have to calm down and use my nose immediately because the track starts right away.”

You’ll see that once you switch to longer tracks again – your tracking will be MUCH better.

I just taught this to a dog in just 2 WEEKS using my “indication first” method.

(In which you teach your dog to follow human scent instead of food, like 90% of trainers do.)

It’s the same training method that helped THOUSANDS of handlers teach reliable tracking in just 60 days.

The whole point is to teach your dog to search for human SCENT instead of food.

I gave away my ENTIRE tracking system in a free guide I made for you.

If you want it…

Comment “Guide” (of “Gids” voor Nederlands) and check your DMs.

07/06/2026

How to guide your dog to find blood, narcotics, explosives, and more:

Most people think detection work means letting your dog run around an area until it finds something.

But a dog searching randomly will miss targets.

In real detection work, you and your dog search together as a team.

You walk with your dog and occasionally point out where it should search next.

That way, you cover the entire area systematically…

And you can be confident that if the target is there, your dog will find it.

The other thing we do is make training harder than real missions.

We use a much smaller scent source in training than what the dog will encounter in practical work.

So when Lucy is at an airport searching containers for drugs or explosives…

She's already done harder searches than that.

That's the level of confidence you want going into a real mission.

If you want to know exactly how to build detection work skills fast…

(From teaching indication, to working on a wall, to transitioning to real scenarios like this one…)

I’ll send you a free guide.

Comment "Detection" (of “Zoeken" voor Nederlands) and go check your DMs.

05/06/2026

👇If YOUR dog makes “wide” movements while tracking…

And if it’s too crazy and restless instead of being calm and precise…

Just train with a shorter track for a bit.

That’s it.

A 1 meter (or ~3 feet) track, and…

“Track!”, give it the command to search for human scent.

At first, your dog might overshoot and miss the object, but after a few repetitions…

It will understand that:

“Okay, I have to calm down and use my nose immediately because the track starts right away.”

You’ll see that once you go switch to longer tracks again – your tracking will be MUCH better.

I just taught this to a dog in just 2 WEEKS using my “indication first” method.

(In which you teach your dog to follow human scent instead of food, like 90% of trainers do.)

If you want the same step-by-step guide that thousands of trainers have used to get reliable tracking dogs in 60 days…

Comment “Guide” (of “Gids” voor Nederlands) and check your DMs.

04/06/2026

The HARDEST thing to teach in tracking:

It’s really not getting your dog to follow a scent.

Or to turn corners.

The thing that you most likely struggle with is…

Teaching your dog to figure it out when it loses the track… without your help.

In a real mission, you can't show your dog where to go.

You don't know where the track is either.

If your dog looks to you every time it hits a difficult moment, it will fail the missions that matter most.

This is why independence is everything.

When my dog briefly loses the track, I don't say a word.

I just wait…

Until the dog finds it again.

If I helped it, it would learn to stop trying and just wait for me to bail it out.

That's the difference between a dog that completes a track in a busy parking lot full of distractions, cars, and dozens of crossing scent trails…

And a dog that gives up as soon as things get “complicated.”

If you want to solve this tracking problem…

And get a dog that can reliably track in 60 days…

You’ll love my free tracking guide.

Comment "Guide" (of "Gids" voor Nederlands) and I'll send it to you.

Adres

Schoolweg 12
Nunspeet
8071BC

Telefoon

+31653732699

Website

https://www.dogtrainingdickstaal.com/

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