04/05/2026
I like to pride myself on always keeping updated on the latest scientific information as well as keeping my mind open to different perspectives on my training techniques. I've recommended head alters before for clients struggling with large breeds and whilst I still think they're a good tool when used correctly this was a very interesting read.
It's so important to be aware of the potential risks of any tool we use with our canine friends and always introduce them properly. Linked the post for anyone interested, if your dog is pulling on leash a head alter isn't your only or first option!
https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1DePjCjQHx/
WHY I DON’T GENERALLY RECOMMEND HEAD HALTIS / HEAD COLLARS FOR DOGS
Too frequently I am reading online 'positive reinforcement / force free trainers recommend and use head collars’ and this statement being used as a way of highlighting our hypocrisy for criticising tools such as a prong, slip lead, grot or e-collar, whilst frequently recommending the use of a head collar.
I would consider myself relatively well connected with colleagues and peers, and I can only think of two who may be more quick to recommend a head collar so this common portrayal of what we supposedly advise is a little frustrating to me.
WHY I DON'T ACTIVELY RECOMMEND THIS EQUIPMENT
1. The muzzle is a highly sensitive area, and should a dog pull or lunge into a head collar, some designs of head collar can tighten on the nose or ride up into the eyes - which is unpleasant.
It can restrict breathing and cause sores from rubbing.
For some dogs, the equipment sitting on the muzzle without even tightenening is unpleasant.
2. If a dog lunges on a head collar, they risk giving themselves a serious neck injury due to the lead pulling the dog's muzzle round and back- causing a sudden and intense curve/turn/angle in the neck.
3. If a dog pulls into a head collar, this not only causes a curve in the neck but also significant loading into one foreleg. Although this can also be seen in collars and front leading harnesses.
For balance, we can also argue that excessive loading into both forelegs and shoulders can be observed in dogs pulling into a harness, even if it fits well.
4. Head collar can interfere with social, self regulating and explorative behaviour, especially if the lead is short. A dog may be less inclined to engage with the environment (creating vigilance when walking), less able to offer head turns or displacement sniffing as a means of difusing tension.
They may be less able to curve their body and generally soften their body language when passing or interacting with dogs.
WHAT HAPPENS IF OUR CLIENTS USE ONE?
We can count on one hand how many clients in the past few years have opted to use one (without us recommending it).
For full transparency- we can count on one hand how many times we have felt the need to suggest head collars as an option for the client to consider across our whole careers (that’s 16 years for me alone!).
Recommendation of this equipment would not be to teach the dog, but to safeguard the client whilst positive reinforcement based methods are being applied. i.e., the size and/or strength of the dog versus that of the handler/owner is a concern and that minimising that risk via other means (such as where the dog is walked whilst training is underway) prove challenging.
We would do so whilst being fully aware of the dog’s experience and the risks of that experience being aversive and work hard to mitigate that- rather than optimise that discomfort as a means of teaching the dog.
1. We do not expel our clients for their choices.
2. We will clearly explain the risks involved with this choice of equipment and put a huge emphasis on consistent loose lead walking and ensuring the dog does not lunge whilst wearing a head collar.
We will make clients aware of the risks of injury and monitor the dogs for signs of pain (which we do with all our cases anyway).
3. We will emphasis that the dog must happily put the equipment on, exhibit relaxed body language whilst wearing it and not try and paw to get it off.
4. We focus on trying to resolve the behaviours that give the client reason or need to use them and increase the handler's confidence when walking their dog.
Part of this will be looking at reducing on lead time as much as possible as well as looking at ensuring the choice of equipment doesn't replace focus on why the dog is exhibiting the behaviour (such as lunging or excessive pulling) and improving their ability to cope in that environment or context.
Improvement in those areas will reduce the perceived need for that equipment.
CAVEATS
The only 'force free' way to use a head collar is to introduce one (gradually) when a dog already walks reliably on a loose lead, providing the dog doesn't find the equipment sitting on their muzzle aversive (puts on willingly/happily, moves and behaves in a relaxed demeanour and doesn't try to paw off).
This in itself is somewhat contradictory as walking on a loose lead and not lunging should mean a head collar is not necessary.
However, we cannot completely disregard that some people will feel less anxious walking their dog knowing that should their dog suddenly lunge/pull - they won't be pulled over.
Should the dog pull/lunge- the equipment works (to stop the behaviour) by being uncomfortable (aversive) and I can't think of a single professional who would state otherwise.
If someone conditions a head collar paralell to proofing loose lead (and reducing any reactive behaviour) and a dog wears a head collar happily and comfortably, never lunges or pulls whilst wearing one, and the handler enables the dog to engage with the environment and communicate/signal to other dogs (unless taught and cued to not do so when on lead using positive reinforcement methods) then a head halti should be/feel neutral to a dog - providing the dog gets opportunities for species specific behaviours beyond the head collar!
If a dog is always on lead when out of the home and is less able to engage with their environment (sniffing, signaling to dogs etc) then frustration is likely going to increase over time - regardless of what equipment the dog is wearing.
IF YOU USE A HEAD COLLAR ON YOUR DOG
I would encourage you to get them checked out by a qualified physio periodically to ensure they have not hurt their neck.
When wearing the head collar, your dog should be able to move their head around easily. Be mindful that your default setting ISN’T a tight/taught lead as this will cause your dog to hold their head at an unnatural angle, putting strain on their neck and increased loading into one shoulder and foreleg.
The default setting should be a loose lead (bounces and swings due to lack of tension).
Consider using a double ended lead, so the attachment to the muzzle is literally used only in an emergency. This reduces the risk of damage to the neck, but doesn't eradicate it given the intensity of behaviour likely observed in what is considered an emergency.
There are some head collar designs that do not tighten on the muzzle when there’s tension on the lead and the flat webbing is likely more comfortable on the muzzle than anything rounded, such as rope figure of 8 leads. These features may help them be less unpleasant for the dog.
Image from Company of Animals website.
