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Waggy Dogs, Burslem (2026)

02/01/2026

It’s joyful to watch our pups interact with the world, and we can teach our pups to feel happy and confident about new people, dogs, objects and experiences by having a variety of encounters, and making each one safe and enjoyable😊 .

It’s important not to push new things onto our pups. Giving pups choice really helps build trust and confidence as they know you won’t force them into things they’re not sure about. So if they try to move away, freeze, or start to tremble for example (see yesterday’s post for more info about body language), just move them away somewhere they feel more comfortable and next time, make the environment less intense for them.

Up to 16-20 weeks of age in particular, they are soaking up information about the world and how great/otherwise it is. What they learn during this time is what lasts them a lifetime, so don’t drag them up to a bunch of dogs to “socialise” or allow people to invade their space, which could be really scary, instead give them space from the new thing to give them chance to see, smell and hear it from a distance, and let them get closer if they want to.

Here’s a few examples:

• Sit somewhere with your pup that you can watch the world go by, at a distance. This can be done from inside the car, or carrying them if they’re not yet fully vaccinated. When you see something new or potentially scary, like another dog or someone on a bike or scooter, give them a treat.

• Follow another dog at a distance. That way your pup gets the chance to see and scent another dog without having to get too close for comfort.

• Avoid having them on a tight lead, so they can slow down, stop or move away if they want to.

We can teach them that new things are great by pairing them with something nice like a tasty treat or game. The order of events is really important – pup must notice the new thing first, and then feeding or play begins. When the new thing goes away, the feeding or play can stop.

Think about the things you want your dogs to feel confident around, you could even make a list and mark them off, for example:

• People – tall, short, old, young, bald, hairy, facial hair, different clothing, using sticks or wheelchairs…
• Animals – cats, birds, other dogs…
• Situations – passing a school, getting in the car, going to the vets, going up stairs, putting a harness on
• Objects – lawnmower, cars, feathers (I used to walk a dog who was scared of feathers!)
• Surfaces – grass, gravel, floorboards, bath,
• Noises – thunder, fireworks, hoover, hairdryer, doorbell, building work, babies, shouting, laughing

Introducing your pup to other dogs can be great if done in the right way. Here’s some tips:

• If going to a puppy playgroup, make sure the class size is small and the pups are matched in size and temperament.
• Supervised play with a calm, puppy-friendly adult dog can be a great experience for a pup, as can supervised play with another pup one to one.
• Avoid areas where there’s lots of dogs running around, this is unlikely to be the best environment to teach your pup how to interact with other dogs, especially if they get bumped and frightened, or any of the other dogs are too boisterous.
• Introductions to new dogs should be made calmly, on-lead to start with so they can be easily separated if needs be.
• Keep it short. Puppies can get overexcited easily as well as getting tired quickly, so their behaviour can become overwhelming to others, such as nipping, pinning down, or body slamming.

The Dog’s Trust have produced a fantastic free resource to help puppies get used to different noises, including a pdf of how it works, and recordings of different sounds to use, which is available here https://www.dogstrust.org.uk/dog-advice/understanding-your-dog/sound-therapy-for-pets.

In a nutshell, this process is about hearing or seeing things at a distance, and gradually building up the intensity, whilst using things they love to make the process as pleasurable as possible – for you and your pup, so that they have good associations with all these new things 🐶🐾.

And if you'd like to learn more by coming to the next group sessions, please get in touch.

01/01/2026

Doggie language isn’t always that clear, especially if we’ve not learned to speak it!

Dogs communicate, with each other and with us, mainly using their body language. The signals they use can be subtle, and recognizing and acting on these signals helps to show our dogs that they can trust us, as well as preventing misunderstandings, and ensuring safe and positive interactions.

However, if the subtle signals are ignored, they start to become more obvious with their communications, such as growling, barking, and even biting.

For example, if our puppers are telling us they’ve had enough fuss, and we acknowledge that by stopping and giving them space, they trust that we’ll leave them alone if they want us to, and there’s no need to resort to more obvious signals.

The picture is from the cover of Lili Chin’s book “Doggie Language, A dog lover’s guide to understanding your best friend”. It’s full of really helpful illustrations alongside descriptions of what those illustrations mean, and is well worth getting hold of a copy. There’s also free downloads on her site https://doggiedrawings.net/collections/free-downloads, but to get you started, see if you recognise some of these descriptions in your dog. They’re broken down into parts of their bodies.

1. Tail Position and Movement
• Wagging tail: May indicate excitement or happiness, but context matters - eg a stiff, high wag can signal alertness or agitation.
• Tucked tail: Suggests fear, anxiety, or submission – although some tails are naturally held low.
• Neutral tail: Reflects calmness and relaxation.

2. Ears
• Forward ears: Show interest, curiosity, or alertness.
• Flattened ears: Indicate fear, stress, or submission.
• Relaxed ears: Suggest comfort and ease.

3. Eyes
• Soft eyes: Indicate relaxation and friendliness.
• Wide eyes or “whale eye” - where you can see the whites of their eyes: indicate fear, discomfort, or defensiveness.
• Direct stare: Can be a sign of challenge.

4. Mouth and Facial Expressions
• Relaxed mouth: A calm, open mouth often signals contentment.
• Tight mouth – closed with lips forward: May feel concerned or annoyed.
• Lips pulled back or showing teeth: May indicate fear, aggression, or discomfort.
• Yawning or lip licking: Common signs of stress or appeasement.

5. Body Posture
• Loose, wiggly body: Indicates they're feeling friendly and playful.
• Stiff posture: Suggests tension, alertness, or aggression.
• Cowering or lowering body: Shows fear or submission.

6. Vocal signals
• Barking: Can express excitement, alertness, or anxiety depending on tone and context.
• Growling: A warning signal—respect it as communication, not defiance. Don't ever punish a growl, because if they find that nobody's listening, they can make it more obvious that they're really not comfortable, which is where snarling, air snapping or biting can happen.
• Whining: Often a sign of stress, need, or attention-seeking.

No single signal tells the full story, so we always need to look at them in context – so consider what’s going on around them, your pupper’s personality, and other signals they may be showing. A wagging tail paired with stiff posture, for example, may indicate tension rather than joy.

So here’s a cute little test for you to try. If your pupper is sitting next to you, stroke them for a few seconds and then stop. Watch their body language both during and after you fuss them, and see if you can figure out if they want more, or really don’t want a fuss. I include this in my pre-course information for the Puppy ABC’s course, and there’s a table of some of the things to look for in the comments🐶🐾 .

30/12/2025

Yesterday’s post was about helping your dogs learn that alone time is good 😊.

Another new puppy skill is teaching them to potty in the right place. This one can be pretty traumatic, because if you don’t supervise your pupper enough, your feet will end up finding the lovely little gifts they’ve left for you 🤢.

So how do you do it? When they’re young, night time is just as much of a training opportunity as day time, so I’ll treat each one diffently.

If you’re following what I mentioned yesterday to help your pup feel safe at night, they’ll be near you when you’re sleeping. So whenever they wake you to potty, take them to the potty point asap, wait a little while to give them chance to go (not fun at this time of year I grant you), and give lots of calm praise and a little treat if they go in the right place.

If you’re consistent, it shouldn’t take too long until they learn the right place to go, and also their bladder control will improve, so the more consistent you are the better – fewer opportunities for them to learn to go in the wrong place!

During the daytime, supervision is the key. Dogs don’t usually potty where they eat or sleep, so when you can’t supervise them, pop them in the den we talked about yesterday. When they’re out of their den, watch them like a hawk! As soon as you spot the signs they need the loo, take them to their potty point. You might notice them sniffing or circling for example.

It’s also a great idea to make a note of when they potty so you know when to expect it, but as a rough guide, very young puppers usually need to potty every hour or two, and:

• First thing in the morning or after waking from a nap
• After eating (which stimulates their digestive system – puppies usually wee within 15 mins of eating, and poo within ½ hour of eating)
• After play
• After any excitement indoors
• After a visitor arrives (excitement)
• Last thing at night
• And as I’ve already mentioned, if you see them sniffing and circling the floor.

Only reward when they’ve finished, because if you reward part way through, they may end up doing a half-wee to get the treat, then finish off inside!

Always go to the potty point with them so you are there to reward them. Fortunately, puppies are creatures of habit, so as long as you introduce the garden to your puppy as its toilet area early on, you should be able to avoid most of the common pitfalls.

There may be times when you do all the right things and they just don’t go, so just give them a quiet 5 minutes outside, take them back inside without any fuss, and try again in around 10 minutes – and then as soon as they’ve gone, it’s praise and reward time again.

There’s bound to be mistakes. But don’t react to them and above all please don’t shout, tell them off, or punish them in any way. In particular, if the accident happened a while ago, they’ll be completely confused as to why they’re being told off, and this chips away at the trust you’re trying so hard to build. If you tell them off while they’re, shall we say, performing, you may end up with a pup who’s scared to potty when you’re there and that leads to a whole world of other problems, such as pottying in hidden places, or not going on walks. Just don’t react and clear it up, and tell yourself that you need to be more on the ball next time!

And if you'd like more support on yours and your pup's adventures through life together, the next Puppy ABC's course starts on 6th January, so you can also swap stories with other puppy people 😊🐾

29/12/2025

Another great skill to teach pups is to feel happy about being alone. Even if you work from home, there will be times when you’ll be faced with having to leave your pupper alone, so it’s best to build up to it gradually, as soon as you can.

A great starting point is for your pup to have a den, whether it’s a crate, in an exercise pen, behind a baby gate or in a specific room. The MOST IMPORTANT point about the den is that it’s where pup feels safe, happy and comfortable. The best things go on in there, such as a really snuggly blanket, and their favourite treats and toys.

From the very start, it’s NOT a place of punishment. That is just a recipe for them not wanting to be in there at all.

Get them used to being in there while you’re in the same room. If using a crate, pop a favourite toy or treat in there, let them explore it and spend time in there with it if they want to. Don’t think about closing the door on them yet.

You may want them to sleep separately from you, eventually. But to begin with, have their den next to you at night (this might be their bed, or a soft crate). Not only can you put a hand down to comfort them during the night, but you’ll be on hand to take them outside if they need to potty, so you’ll avoid them pottying in the wrong place and have the opportunity to praise them if they potty outside, so it’s a win/win!

Over time, you can have the den/bed/soft crate further and further away from you at night until it’s in the place you want them to sleep.

When it comes to leaving them alone in the house, there’s lots you can do to prepare them for this. Here’s a few ideas:

• Having a long-lasting enrichment toy such as a kong is really helpful to give them something to do that they enjoy, and that will tire them a little.

• Once they’re happy with their den, quietly close the door and then open it again. Repeat this every now and then, gradually increasing the time the door is closed. The more slowly you do this, the less of a shock it is to the system for your pup.

• Once they’re happy with the door being shut for a short while, take a step away from the den, then go back and open the door. Over time, gradually move further and further away, being in sight to begin with, and then starting to move out of sight. You could sit on the sofa/chair/floor nearby reading while they chew their toy, to get them used to doing things independently of you.

• Once they’re happy being in the crate with you out of sight for a short while, quietly and calmly go out of the house then come back in again, quietly and calmly. The less fuss you make, the less it will seem to be a big event to your pup.
With both sleeping alone, and being left alone, always build up the time and distance GRADUALLY. You want your pup to trust that you’ll always come back, and if you do this slowly enough that they don’t get scared or anxious, that trust and confidence will grow. It’s so wonderful to see and feel that bond growing between you, and the more trust and confidence you build, the stronger that bond will be.

A great resource is the Dog’s Trust website, and this page has lots more tips https://www.dogstrust.org.uk/dog-advice/training/home/help-your-dog-spend-time-alone.

And if you'd like to enrol your pup in the latest Puppy ABC's group classes, get in touch as there's one starting on 6th January at 6pm at the Marychurch Centre in Bucknall 🐶🐾

28/12/2025

Having some support makes all the difference to achieving that dream life with your pup, and that’s just what Puppy ABC’s group classes offer:

🐾 Once you've booked a space, you receive an information pack to help you get started straightaway, before the course even begins. It’ll help you with the puppy pitfalls of housetraining, nipping, chewing and jumping, as well as finding out how to occupy them, particularly as you have to wait until their vaccinated before taking them for walks.

🐾 In your first session the puppies get the chance to meet each other safely in the enrichment zone, which is full of objects for them to explore. This helps the pups to settle into this new space, and with each other by having something fun to do, helps them be a bit calmer by doing some sniffing and searching, and also helps to build up confidence, both by giving them the opportunity for problem solving but also to get out of the way of the other pups if they're feeling a bit shy.

🐾 You’ll learn the basics like teaching them to pay attention to you, settle, sit, lie down, walk nicely on the lead, recall, drop and leave, among other things, and I use fun ways of teaching them so it's more like a game - I want them to enjoy learning.

🐾 You’ll receive an email after each session detailing what we've covered to help you practice.

🐾 Places are limited to 6 so each pup has got plenty of space to learn, and each team has plenty of 1:1 time with me to guide them through each exercise and help with any problems.

🐾 Classes are friendly! We all have the chance to talk, swap horror stories of our little land sharks and give each other support.

So what else do you need to know?
🐾 Classes are on Tuesday evenings at the Marychurch Centre in Bucknall. The next course with spaces available starts on Tuesday 4th January at 6pm.

🐾 Each course lasts for 6 weeks and is £99.

🐾There's plenty of reviews on Facebook and Google if you'd like to do a bit more research, as well as some lovely comments from graduates on previous Facebook posts.

If you'd like to join, just drop me a message and I'll send you the booking info. I hope to see you and your puppers there 🐶💕 .

27/12/2025

Building confidence is such an important activity, no matter the age of your dog, but if you can work on this as soon as you bring your pup home, it's a fantastic starting point for the rest of your lives together.

So many "bad" behaviours can have their roots in a lack of confidence, for example barking and lunging to send the scary thing away. So how do you get started?

Understand that the world can be a big and scary place for a tiny pup, so you need to be their advocate. A few things you can do right from the very start:

- Even before you collect them, take them a blanket that absorbs the smells of their family that you'll then bring home with them, so they have something that smells familiar.

- Be calm when you collect them - I know it's exciting, but screaming and squeezing will be just a little overwhelming for them!

- Have a den ready for them, which is somewhere they'll feel safe, can rest peacefully, feel happy to have some alone time there (which you'll build up), and which contains all their best things.

- Get them used to their collar, lead and harness way before they're old enough to leave the house, so it's one less thing for them to worry about.

- Give them legal things to chew and destroy, and put away things you don't want them to have - so you don't get stressed and angry, and they don't get scared because they don't understand.

- Learn about their body language, so that you know if you're fussing them too much and they need a break - better this than them ending up biting because nobody's taking any notice.

- Introduce new things, people and places GRADUALLY. And let them make the choice of whether to approach the new thing, people or place. Forcing them into things they're not ready for will not help them to trust you, and this is REALLY important. Understanding their body language will help you so much in doing this too.

- Limit their time with new people, things or in new places, so they don't get time to get anxious, and make the experiences as good as possible - eg with a treat or a game.

- Look for behaviour that you can reward them for, rather than picking on things you think they're doing wrong. Potty training is a prime example, so every time they go in the right place, praise and reward them - PLEASE don't punish them for going in the wrong place, they won't understand and again, it damages the trust. Keep taking them to the right place to potty when it's time for them to go, so you can create even more opportunities to reward for the right thing.

I'll be giving you lots more tips about puppies over the coming days, but if you'd like to join a group training class, where you'll also get all of this info and more upfront, as well as meeting a small group of other pups and their people, the next Puppy ABC's course starts on 6th January at 6pm, at the Marychurch Centre in Bucknall, get in touch to find out more.

25/12/2025

Senior Waggy Dog Crumpet hopes all you puppers out there are having a Christmas Day filled with presents, cuddles, and top treats 🐶🦴🥎🧸🐾

24/12/2025

A bit of a bold statement here - training isn’t always the solution. I know, coming from a trainer too! Let me give you an example to demonstrate.

I was recently contacted by a lady who was looking after her son’s dogs while they were on holiday. The dogs were keeping them up at night, and struggling when alone, and she was worried they might be suffering from separation anxiety, or at least stressed and missing their humans.

I made some initial suggestions of things they could put into place straightaway, such as:

• Giving them some appropriate forms of enrichment to give them a mental workout and help them to destress, such as treat searches, snuffle blankets and the like.
• Having some background noise for when they’re alone, such as the radio or tv.
• Making sure they had a comfort break before bedtime so they didn’t feel the need to get up.
• Using calming products such as Pet Remedy or Adaptil.

She came back to me a couple of days later to say that they’d had 2 nights of undisturbed sleep, even without the calming products 😀.

It just goes to show that if you think about the dog’s needs and how best to meet them, that can be more than half the battle. Whenever I work with anyone new, I always discuss things like health and whether there’s any pain involved, diet, exercise, rest and enrichment, with any training often being the last piece of the puzzle to put into place, because if the foundations aren’t right, trying to teach the dog new skills when the rest of their life isn’t conducive isn’t going to work very well.

So that’s my gift to you this Christmas, make sure your dog’s diet is as good as it can be, that they’re free of pain, they’re getting sufficient rest as well as physical exercise, and above all plenty of enriching activities to make their lives as rich in experiences as ours are 🎁.

23/12/2025

Some dogs pull like a train 🥵. I said at the end of my last post that my boy Crumpet was a master puller on the lead when we first adopted him, before I became a dog trainer. At the end of a walk, my hands were sore, my back and shoulders ached, and I felt defeated and frustrated.

Along our journey together, and with things I’ve learned since then, here’s a few tips to help anyone struggling like we did. And I mean WE – because he was struggling just as much as I was.

• Most importantly, consider his point of view. Why is he pulling? Dogs can pull for many reasons – such as they naturally walk faster than we do, they’ve got loads of energy to get rid of, they’re desperate to get to the park/dog/person up ahead, they’re stressed, they’re frustrated, they’re trying to get away from the restriction of the lead.

Once you have a better idea of why, you can then work on what to do about it. And it doesn’t always mean more training!

• Something I always advise, that helps with lots of different problems, is giving dogs more enrichment in their lives – things that they enjoy doing that give them mental as well as physical stimulation. Because Crumps had a lot of stress in his system, this helped us a lot, and after reading a fantastic blog post about enrichment, I actually stopped walking him for a week and gave him different enrichment activities to do instead. All his meals were fed using fun activities, from Kongs to treat balls to treat searches round the garden. I played games with him, did some training with him – his needs were being met, and during that whole period he never got antsy from not going for a traditional walk.

• If a traditional walk from home is too challenging, drive them somewhere you can let them off instead. If they’ve got good recall, your options are wide, if not there’s lots of secure dog fields available to hire, and some secure spaces you can use for free if you know where to look!

• Dealing with the restriction of the lead is an interesting one, and one that Crumps really struggled from. A traditional 6ft lead just wasn’t enough for him. During my dog trainer training, I came across a trainer called Grisha Stewart and learned a lot about using a longer lead (15-20ft), how to handle it, and using my body language to engage with him on a walk. It was a game changer for me. He had space to get to his next sniff spot without pulling and feeling restricted, and when he got there I caught up and waited with him, then he had space to get to next spot and so on. I use that lead to this day!

• Once you’ve got the above in place, you can get to work on your training. Always start your training in an environment where your pupper can respond to you comfortably – so not in the busy street or field where there’s loads of dogs running about! When they’re really good in that environment, they’ll find it easier to know what to do in somewhere a bit more challenging, and so on. Put it this way, you wouldn’t have your first driving lesson on the motorway. At least I hope not 🙈.

I hope that these 3 posts have given you some actions to put into place with your own dogs to help make your outings more enjoyable, but if you’re having difficulties, please get in touch. Having support makes such a difference when you're struggling.

22/12/2025

Some dogs are just afraid of walking 😢.

This is especially true of some puppies, but there are also adult dogs struggle on walks if they see the world as a pretty scary place. With puppies, who are often tiny, most things seem huge. Imagine lying on the floor and a lorry drives past 2 feet from your head – terrifying. And dogs can struggle on walks for other reasons too.

An example for you – I recently started to walk a sweet 8 yr old crossbreed. We’ve met a few times with her humans, but I’ve only taken her out twice on my own, so she doesn’t fully trust me yet. Giving her choice is vital at this stage in our relationship, because forcing her to go in a particular direction is not going to make her want to trust me at all.

After leaving the house with her, I waited to see which way she’d go and went with her. After reaching the top of her street, she didn’t want to go any further, so rather than forcing her, we went back home. I know she’s a foodie and her humans had left some treats out for her, so we played a Find It game in the garden with her treats instead, which she really loved, especially when I started to run up and down the garden to add more excitement to her search – so although we didn’t get much of a “walk”, she still got some mental as well as physical exercise, just in a different way, one which she enjoyed a lot more from how enthusiastic she was 😍.

So that’s how to start off – see things from their point of view, and if they find somewhere so scary that you’d have to drag them to get anywhere, don’t force the issue. Think of the alternatives – here’s a few to get you started:

• If they’re scared to walk from the house but are happy when they get to the field, drive them there.
• If they’re a teeny puppy, carry them.
• Get creative and borrow a pushchair (I saw that one in a course I’m studying at the moment on reactivity!).
• Play games in the garden or indoors instead.
• Get them used to the outdoors gradually – play games outside your house, and gradually move the game further and further up the street.
• Practice games at home where they feel comfortable that you can eventually take out on walks – games to give you attention, find it games, loose lead walking games – the more you practice these when they’re in a calm and receptive environment, the easier they will find to respond to them in slightly more difficult situations.

So rather than getting frustrated that you dog won’t walk, ask yourself why that might be, and how you can make it easier for them – and you!

Next time I’ll focus on pullers – and there’s nobody who pulled more than my boy Crumpet when I first had him 🥵.

21/12/2025

What is a walk like, for you AND your dog?

For many of us, it’s not the harmonious stroll we thought it would be, with our dogs trotting by our sides, looking at us adoringly every now and then, calmly greeting new people and dogs… For some it’s a battle with our dogs pulling like trains, or the opposite when they’re too anxious to walk. For others the battle is literal, that their dogs bark, lunge and growl at other dogs, people, cars, cats – the list is endless.

Also many of us see walking the dog as a chore – they need to go a certain distance, in the direction the human wants to go, for their dog to do their business, and get back home asap. That doesn’t make a walk enjoyable either, for the dog OR their human.

So how do you make it more what you’d like it to be?

Because the original post ended up being the length of War and Peace, I’ve broken it down, and this one is going to deal with making the walk less of a chore. There’s going to be a common theme though, of seeing things from your dog’s point of view.

Yes, your dog needs to do their business. But they don’t need to go on a speedwalk to meet their needs. Think of an animal in the wild – they wouldn’t need to go speedwalking to get their steps in because their lifestyle naturally meets their need for exercise. They’d go searching for food, using their noses and brains to track it down, and they might end up going a long way to find it. After eating, they’d rest, then repeat. So what part of that can we bring into our walks?

I’ll give you an example. My boy Crumpet is getting on a bit now, but he loves his on-lead walks just as much as his offlead walks. We don’t aim for distance. If on a particular day he wants to sniff that tree for a couple of minutes, he sniffs the tree. You might think that’s getting in the way of meeting what you perceive are his needs to use up his energy by walking as far as you can in the limited time you have, but actually his nose and brain are working overtime processing all the scents that he’s picking up.

Then he might zigzag to the other side of the pavement and sniff along that while he walks, or stop to process another good scent. We might only go round the block for 20 minutes, but he’s worked hard doing something he really enjoys. I haven’t got stressed thinking I need to do a certain distance, and I’ve been able to just take a few deep breaths and enjoy hanging out with him.

On other outings, we’ll go to the nearest field with his ball where he can play with that, meet his pals, and he’ll still choose to stop and sniff a lot too – so it just goes to show that allowing our dogs to explore with their noses is a choice THEY want to make.

Something else you can do is give them the choice of direction. Dogs get very few choices in life so make their outings something they have a say in. Instead of automatically turning the same direction every day stop and wait to see which way your dog goes, or try different paths to give them more variety in what they see and scent. That gives you a bit more variety too.

Next time I’ll give you some pointers about dogs who pull forward, and those who struggle and lag behind. But in the meantime, let me know what walking struggles you have.

Waggy Dogs

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