Cralin Meadows Hanoverians

Cralin Meadows Hanoverians Linda Poel has been breeding&training top performance horses for the Olympic Disiplines for 30+yrs.

OUR BREEDING GOAL: We use only top individuals from the very best Hanoverian mother lines available to produce the ultimate riding horse for use in any sport. Our horses are medium framed, quiet, superbly rideable with great natural reflexes, motion, and scope. All our horses are raised in a natural environment on 160 acres with large pastures so their bones, muscles and minds develop naturally

to be sound and sane. All our horses love people and when we start them they are developed and trained to encourage their confidence. They are handled thru out their developing yrs and learn good ground manners and respect their handlers. We breed for top performance prospects using the best bloodlines from Germany that produce not only performance but temperament, intelligence and athletic ability.

07/17/2024
01/03/2024

What is the longest a horse can safely go without food?

More and more I see horses and ponies stood for long periods of time with no hay or haylage. Usually under the guise of a “weight control diet”. So how long can a horse be without food before damage is done? And what damage is done?

For those with a short attention span, I’ll give you the answer to begin with - 4 hours, maximum.

Why?

Horses are grazers. They are designed to eat constantly. They have no way of storing their acids and digestive enzymes, they’ve never needed to. They have no gall bladder to store bile and their stomachs release acid constantly, whether or not there is food in the stomach and intestines.

A horses stomach only holds approximately 8-15 litres. Depending on the substance eaten, it takes on average 4-6 hours for the stomach to completely empty. After this, the acids and enzymes start to digest the inside of the horses stomach and then the intestines. This causes both gastric and intestinal ulceration. It has been estimated that 25-50% of foals and 60-90% of adult horses suffer from ulceration. But I won’t go into detail about this, there is a lot of information around about ulcers.

So is that it? Are ulcers the only concern?

No, having an empty stomach is a stress situation for a horse. The longer they are starved, the more they release stress hormones, cortisol predominantly. Cortisol blocks insulin and causes a constantly high blood glucose level. This stimulates the body to release even more insulin, and in turn this causes fat tissue to be deposited and leptin resistance. Over time this causes insulin resistance (Equine Metabolic Syndrome). All of these mechanisms are well known risk factors for laminitis and are caused by short term starvation (starting roughly 3-4 hours after the stomach empties). Starving a laminitic is literally the worst thing you can do. Over longer periods, this also starts to affect muscle and can cause weakness, and a lack of stamina so performance horses also need a constant supply of hay/haylage to function optimally.

Let’s not forget horses are living, breathing and feeling animals. We talk about this stress reaction like it’s just internal but the horse is well aware of this stress. Door kicking, box walking, barging and many other stable vices and poor behaviour can be explained by a very stressed horse due to food deprivation (we all have that Hangry friend to explain this reaction). Next time you shout or hit a horse that dives for their net, remember their body is genuinely telling them they are going to starve to death. They know no different.

But surely they spend the night asleep so they wouldn’t eat anyway?

Not true. Horses only need 20mins REM sleep every 24 hours (jealous? I am!). They may spend a further hour or so dozing but up to 22-23 hours a day are spent eating. So if you leave your horse a net at 5pm and it’s gone by 8pm, then by 12am their stomach is empty. By 4am they are entering starvation mode. By their next feed at 8am, they are extremely stressed, physically and mentally.

Now I know the cob owners are reading this mortified. I can almost hear you shouting at your screen “if I feed my horse ad lib hay he won’t fit out the stable door in a week!!”

I will say that a horse with a constant supply of hay/haylage will eat far less then the same horse that is intermittently starved. They don’t eat in a frenzy, reducing the chance of colic from both ulcers and over eating. Cobs included.

However I’m not suggesting you sit your cob in front of a bale of haylage and say have at it! There is a difference between ad lib and a constant supply. There is much we can do to reduce calorie intake and control weight whilst feeding a constant supply.

The easiest is small holes nets. There are many. Trickle nets, greedy feeders, nibbleze, trawler nets etc. My personal favourite is the Shires Soft Mesh 1”. They don’t cost the Earth, they are easy to fill and they don’t have knots so are much gentler to the teeth. Now often I suggest these types of nets to owners and the owner tells me “Oh no, *** won’t eat out of those” 🙄 this is nonsense. If he was left it, he would. Remember, you can give a normal net and one of these for them to nibble at after. Better than leaving them with nothing at all.

A few other tricks, hang the net from the ceiling/rafters, it’s harder to eat out of a net that swings. Soak the hay, a minimum of 4 hours to be effective. Mix with straw but be sure to introduce the straw slowly and make sure it’s top quality and a palatable type eg Barley or Oat, otherwise they won’t eat it.

Don’t forget exercise. The best way to get weight off a horse is exercise. Enough exercise and they can eat what they want!

And lay off the bucket feed and treats! Horses on a diet require a vit/min supplement in the form of a balancer but that’s it. The odd slice of carrot or swede won’t do any harm but no licks, treats, treacle, molasses, cereal based rubbish. Even if it says low sugar or the marvellously misleading “No added sugar”! Your horse would rather have a constant supply of hay, I promise.

Written by Vikki Fowler BVetMed BAEDT MRCVS

A few edits for the critics-

Firstly, feeding a constant supply does not mean ad lib feeding. It means use some ingenuity and spread the recommended amount of daily forage so the horse is never stood with out food for more than 4 hours. I am not promoting obesity, quite the opposite, feeding like this reduces obesity and IR. This can be done whilst feeding your horse twice a day as most horse owners do. Just think outside the box for your own situation.

Secondly I am in the UK and this post is UK specific, use some common sense when reading. Yes in warmer climates, soaking hay for 4 hours is dangerous and studies show 1 hour is plenty in hot weather but in the UK’s arctic climate, a minimum of 4 hours is required. Equally the UK feed exclusively grass hay. I can not comment on other types.

Thirdly, yes every horse/pony and situation is different, but this is a law of nature and all horses have this anatomy and metabolism. How you achieve this constant supply is individual, the need for it is not.

Fourthly, the use of hay nets in the UK is very very high. I’d estimate 95% of horses I see are fed this way and very very few have incisor wear or neck/back issues as a result. Yes, feeding from the ground is ideal, but a constant supply, I feel trumps this. Again with ingenuity both can be safely achieved.

Finally, straw can be fed to horses safely, introduced very slowly, with fresh water always available, plus a palatable and digestible type of straw which will depend on your area. Again many horses in the UK are bedded on straw and most of them eat it. This is not a new concept to us.

Final finally 🤦‍♀️ and I feel I must add this due to the sheer number of people contacting me to ask, feed your horses during transport!!! I am astonished this is not normal in other countries! Again in the UK, we give our horses hay nets to transport. We don’t go 10 mins up the road without a haynet and a spare in case they finish! Considering we are a tiny island and we rarely transport even 4 hours, we never transport without hay available. I have never seen an episode of choke due to travelling with hay available. If you are concerned, use a slow feeder net so they can’t take too much in at once.

If you get to the end of this post and your first thought is “I can’t do this with my horse/pony, they’d be morbidly obese”, you haven’t read the advice in this post thoroughly.

This is  GOOD READ FOR ALL HORSE OWNERS..ENJOY
01/03/2024

This is GOOD READ FOR ALL HORSE OWNERS..ENJOY

What is the longest a horse can safely go without food?

More and more I see horses and ponies stood for long periods of time with no hay or haylage. Usually under the guise of a “weight control diet”. So how long can a horse be without food before damage is done? And what damage is done?

For those with a short attention span, I’ll give you the answer to begin with - 4 hours, maximum.

Why?

Horses are grazers. They are designed to eat constantly. They have no way of storing their acids and digestive enzymes, they’ve never needed to. They have no gall bladder to store bile and their stomachs release acid constantly, whether or not there is food in the stomach and intestines.

A horses stomach only holds approximately 8-15 litres. Depending on the substance eaten, it takes on average 4-6 hours for the stomach to completely empty. After this, the acids and enzymes start to digest the inside of the horses stomach and then the intestines. This causes both gastric and intestinal ulceration. It has been estimated that 25-50% of foals and 60-90% of adult horses suffer from ulceration. But I won’t go into detail about this, there is a lot of information around about ulcers.

So is that it? Are ulcers the only concern?

No, having an empty stomach is a stress situation for a horse. The longer they are starved, the more they release stress hormones, cortisol predominantly. Cortisol blocks insulin and causes a constantly high blood glucose level. This stimulates the body to release even more insulin, and in turn this causes fat tissue to be deposited and leptin resistance. Over time this causes insulin resistance (Equine Metabolic Syndrome). All of these mechanisms are well known risk factors for laminitis and are caused by short term starvation (starting roughly 3-4 hours after the stomach empties). Starving a laminitic is literally the worst thing you can do. Over longer periods, this also starts to affect muscle and can cause weakness, and a lack of stamina so performance horses also need a constant supply of hay/haylage to function optimally.

Let’s not forget horses are living, breathing and feeling animals. We talk about this stress reaction like it’s just internal but the horse is well aware of this stress. Door kicking, box walking, barging and many other stable vices and poor behaviour can be explained by a very stressed horse due to food deprivation (we all have that Hangry friend to explain this reaction). Next time you shout or hit a horse that dives for their net, remember their body is genuinely telling them they are going to starve to death. They know no different.

But surely they spend the night asleep so they wouldn’t eat anyway?

Not true. Horses only need 20mins REM sleep every 24 hours (jealous? I am!). They may spend a further hour or so dozing but up to 22-23 hours a day are spent eating. So if you leave your horse a net at 5pm and it’s gone by 8pm, then by 12am their stomach is empty. By 4am they are entering starvation mode. By their next feed at 8am, they are extremely stressed, physically and mentally.

Now I know the cob owners are reading this mortified. I can almost hear you shouting at your screen “if I feed my horse ad lib hay he won’t fit out the stable door in a week!!”

I will say that a horse with a constant supply of hay/haylage will eat far less then the same horse that is intermittently starved. They don’t eat in a frenzy, reducing the chance of colic from both ulcers and over eating. Cobs included.

However I’m not suggesting you sit your cob in front of a bale of haylage and say have at it! There is a difference between ad lib and a constant supply. There is much we can do to reduce calorie intake and control weight whilst feeding a constant supply.

The easiest is small holes nets. There are many. Trickle nets, greedy feeders, nibbleze, trawler nets etc. My personal favourite is the Shires Soft Mesh 1”. They don’t cost the Earth, they are easy to fill and they don’t have knots so are much gentler to the teeth. Now often I suggest these types of nets to owners and the owner tells me “Oh no, *** won’t eat out of those” 🙄 this is nonsense. If he was left it, he would. Remember, you can give a normal net and one of these for them to nibble at after. Better than leaving them with nothing at all.

A few other tricks, hang the net from the ceiling/rafters, it’s harder to eat out of a net that swings. Soak the hay, a minimum of 4 hours to be effective. Mix with straw but be sure to introduce the straw slowly and make sure it’s top quality and a palatable type eg Barley or Oat, otherwise they won’t eat it.

Don’t forget exercise. The best way to get weight off a horse is exercise. Enough exercise and they can eat what they want!

And lay off the bucket feed and treats! Horses on a diet require a vit/min supplement in the form of a balancer but that’s it. The odd slice of carrot or swede won’t do any harm but no licks, treats, treacle, molasses, cereal based rubbish. Even if it says low sugar or the marvellously misleading “No added sugar”! Your horse would rather have a constant supply of hay, I promise.

Written by Vikki Fowler BVetMed BAEDT MRCVS

A few edits for the critics-

Firstly, feeding a constant supply does not mean ad lib feeding. It means use some ingenuity and spread the recommended amount of daily forage so the horse is never stood with out food for more than 4 hours. I am not promoting obesity, quite the opposite, feeding like this reduces obesity and IR. This can be done whilst feeding your horse twice a day as most horse owners do. Just think outside the box for your own situation.

Secondly I am in the UK and this post is UK specific, use some common sense when reading. Yes in warmer climates, soaking hay for 4 hours is dangerous and studies show 1 hour is plenty in hot weather but in the UK’s arctic climate, a minimum of 4 hours is required. Equally the UK feed exclusively grass hay. I can not comment on other types.

Thirdly, yes every horse/pony and situation is different, but this is a law of nature and all horses have this anatomy and metabolism. How you achieve this constant supply is individual, the need for it is not.

Fourthly, the use of hay nets in the UK is very very high. I’d estimate 95% of horses I see are fed this way and very very few have incisor wear or neck/back issues as a result. Yes, feeding from the ground is ideal, but a constant supply, I feel trumps this. Again with ingenuity both can be safely achieved.

Finally, straw can be fed to horses safely, introduced very slowly, with fresh water always available, plus a palatable and digestible type of straw which will depend on your area. Again many horses in the UK are bedded on straw and most of them eat it. This is not a new concept to us.

Final finally 🤦‍♀️ and I feel I must add this due to the sheer number of people contacting me to ask, feed your horses during transport!!! I am astonished this is not normal in other countries! Again in the UK, we give our horses hay nets to transport. We don’t go 10 mins up the road without a haynet and a spare in case they finish! Considering we are a tiny island and we rarely transport even 4 hours, we never transport without hay available. I have never seen an episode of choke due to travelling with hay available. If you are concerned, use a slow feeder net so they can’t take too much in at once.

If you get to the end of this post and your first thought is “I can’t do this with my horse/pony, they’d be morbidly obese”, you haven’t read the advice in this post thoroughly.

Excellent info for young horses and the advanced Horse.
11/28/2023

Excellent info for young horses and the advanced Horse.

Yesterday we wrapped up warm and headed off to the Equestrian Management Agency British Dressage National Convention at Addington Equestrian. It was a good day with lots of insights, great to see so many talented and well trained horses. And a lovely bonus to see the wonderful Valegro.
Here are a some of my initial notes from the day...

Charlotte Dujardin - working with four year olds.

✅️ When training a young horse you are putting in the foundations for the future. ✅️ When looking at a young horse you need to value good confirmation not flashy movement. Buy a good walk and canter, train a trot. Look for natural paces that are in balance. You can then develope the trot. Once you train in suspension to an average trot it will look spectacular.
✅️ Big horses take more time to develope, smaller horses tend to be stronger.
✅️ The key is to find a horse who can easily sit and push. These are the qualities you need to make Grand Prix. If you buy a hind leg that naturally pushes the horse uphill you are half way there, confirmation can make training easier.
✅️ Some horses by nature are good in the contact. It's easier to have a strong horse who you make lighter than one that doesn't go into the bridle to take the rein. Tricky contacts take time to develope.
✅️ In the walk you want to see the head drop and neck swing infront of saddle. Take your hand down and forward in the walk and don't interfere at this age. Make sure not to over collect too early as you could lose the walk rhythm. Hacking improves the walk, do hill work.
✅️ Four year olds should work no longer than 20 minutes at the most.
✅️ Trot walk trot transitions.. train a small trot then go down to the walk. This values good balance and urges horses to step forwards to walk. Use half transitions within the pace, almost to the walk then ride forward again in the trot.
✅️ Do rising trot on young horses, don't sit on them too soon, not strong enough.
✅️ Don't go too deep into corners with young horse, they will lose balance.
✅️ Within leg yield you should only have a small flexion, not a bend. Leg yield increases inside leg to outside rein connection.
Ride leg yield on a diagonal line, this exercise encourages horse to stay upright and balanced rather than falling over outside shoulder. Make sure you look up on the turn.
✅️ Young horses have their whole life to collect, its a working trot, allow it forwards.
✅️ Use your voice with Young horses.

Laura Tomlinson- working with five year olds.

☑️ Don't do flying changes till simple change is good.
☑️ Don't do half pass till shoulder in both ways is good and the horse has equal suppleness.
☑️ Make a habit of riding the basics every single time you ride. It gives a better feeling later on if horses have been taught to be supple over the back.
☑️ Transitions are there to focus a young horse and put their body in the right place.
Open hand as you come down to trot.
☑️ If the hand stays on too long in the downward transition it has a negative impact on hingleg.
☑️ Slow the rising if the trot gets too speedy.
☑️ When going from stretch to picking up the reins the trot rhythm needs to stay the same.
☑️ Pat on the side that there is something scary.
☑️ The more obvious we ask a question of our horse, the easier it is for them to give us the right answer.
☑️ With young horses never push them above their limits. Adapt the plan to how they are feeling rather than doing 'X' amount every day. This will develope confidence in their ability.
☑️ Create expression through athleticism, not pressure.

Maria Colliander- Judge
✔️ She was working with a horse didn't have so much steam for canter work, so she started with the canter work.
✔️ Judges are looking for precision. Your judging position in the arena will affect the view of the movement and therefore the comment/mark.
✔️ Show your horse off on the short sides.

Gareth Hughes Dressage - advanced
✅️ Atmosphere can create nerves and tension within the horses, this is not something we can practise at home...if there is a particular trigger (i.e a spooky end of the arena) start working the horse away from where they are spooking. Start by getting them focused on you then the relaxation should come.
✅️ When warming up it is our chance to see how the horse is feeling that day. This will dictate what our session is made up of. Might just be working on balance /shaping the horse/suppleness /getting horse on the aids through exercises.
✅️ Some horses find their canter through transitions, some find it through shapes.
Easy ways to get horses through their middle is spiralling circle in and out.
The shape will collect them and then you must ride forward within the shape. The shape makes the horse fall in and out, which then makes the rider shape the horses body with the inside leg and they start to pick up round their middle.
✅️ Simple changes, be proactive but be patient. Wait in the walk. He would rather see a few jog steps down to walk but the walk then becomes fluent and forwards than a horse doing an upbrupt downwards transition and a very tense walk.
✅️ In collected canter think front legs slower, hind legs quicker.
✅️ You need to be able to see and feel test lines. Practise lines, break it up into pieces to practise.
✅️ Steepness of a half pass line is dictated by the ease of canter on the line.
We need to care about how and where we start, not where we finish when teaching the half pass. In between the lines always playing with on and back transitions as the quality of canter is the foundation of the movement. Once the training line is easy then focus on the destination and ride marker to marker.
✅️ Consistent canter = consistent line = consistent bend.
✅️ Training lines improves quality of the movement. Can't ride test lines everyday, it doesn't build confidence as it's very hard. You must build the confidence in the horses ability and adjustability within the lines to then achieve good test lines.
✅️ A good walk can often feel like free marks! We usually ride our best walk at the end of a test!! Mainly because we have relaxed...
✅️ in advanced work the extended walk is the biggest and most forward walk. It's an impression of a contact, don't over hold the contact. Ears need to be the height of the wither. Thinking of pushing the shoulders away from you creates ground cover in the walk.
✅️ Medium walk, you want the same walk with a shorter contact and hands forward. Still ride shoulders and hands away from you. Medium walk should feel like you need to shorten your reins to trot.
✅️ Collected walk, shorter rein. This is where you want to start to thinking about riding hind leg forward. If you do this in medium and extended walk it rushes the walk. If collected walk gets tense, create slight shoulder in on curve.
✅️ Ride lateral work to improve horses acceptance of the leg.
✅️ Mistakes are part of learning, its about having a system and going back to it.
✅️ There is a fine line between guiding and holding with the contact. When doing shoulder in and the horse stops following the line, do a 10m circle. The circle puts the horse back on the line and following the aids. The inside leg is a controlling aid. The 10m circle reminds horse how to react to the inside leg. As the horse relaxes into the movement it looks more quality and supple and the athleticism increases.
✅️ When you feel as a rider you are doing too much walk. You shouldn't be doing it for them. Re group and then go again.
✅️ Riding with a whip, it is an aid to ask the horse to try harder in what they are doing. Don't rely on it to make the horse go, its a listen aid.
✅️ Add half pass within a good trot, don't half pass hoping to keep a good trot.
✅️ Rein back is not natural. Difficult to teach some horses. Easiest way to start a rein back is to flex one way and ask horse to step back/slighly sideways. Horses rein back straight when comfortable to go back Allow the horse to learn about going back, then ask it to be straight.
✅️ When you feel tension it's easy to start panicking. You must trust the training system. Just waiting for them to calm down is using tiredness for focus. Giving them a job gives by doing an exercise gives them confidence in you. Create a habit of using movements for focus the horse and this will translate into test riding.
Knowledge gives you confidence.
✅️ Exercise- 20 m circle with 10m circle every time you cross the centre line. Then add travers to 10m circle (huge pirouette). Throughout this exercise looking for the confidence in the canter. If the canter is good reduce the circle to 8m, then with travers on the circle. This helps create a quality canter, bend round inside leg and adjustability. It gives the horse confidence in the movement and they learn to see the line in and out of the pirouette. The shape gives guidance on how to hold the canter and shape around your inside leg which will then create consistency in the pirouettes.
The horse must not turn small just because you go travers!
✅️ Tempi changes, wait for the good canter, you might ride 4 strides inbetween or 400 strides! If canter good can push through the tempis.

P.s thank for the 📸 and a great day Charlotte Fogel Judy Fw

04/05/2023
03/18/2023

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Our Breeding Story

OUR BREEDING GOAL: We use only top individuals from the very best Hanoverian mother lines available to produce the ultimate riding horse for use in any sport. Our horses are medium framed, quiet, superbly rideable with great natural reflexes, motion, and scope. All our horses are raised in a natural environment on 160 acres with large pastures so their bones, muscles and minds develop naturally to be sound and sane. All our horses love people and when we start them they are developed and trained to encourage their confidence. They are handled thru out their developing yrs and learn good ground manners and respect their handlers. We breed for top performance prospects using the best bloodlines from Germany that produce not only performance but temperament, intelligence and athletic ability.