Noble Canyon K9 Facility

06/19/2025

This! I was asked today since we live next to the beach why we don’t go throw the ball daily. This explains it’s perfect. As easy as it would be - it’s not the best for my working dog for these reasons.

There is a question I get asked constantly:

“Bart, should I play fetch with my dog every day? He LOVES it!”

And my answer is always the same:
No. Especially not with working breeds like the Malinois, German Shepherd, Dutch Shepherd, or any other high-prey-drive dog, like hunting dogs, Agility dogs, etc.

This answer is often met with surprise, sometimes with resistance. I get it—your dog brings you the ball, eyes bright, body full of energy, practically begging you to throw it. It feels like bonding. It feels like exercise. It feels like the right thing to do.

But from a scientific, behavioral, and neurobiological perspective—it’s not. In fact, it may be one of the most harmful daily habits for your dog’s mental health and nervous system regulation that no one is warning you about.

Let me break it down for you in detail. This will be long, but if you have a working dog, you need to understand this.

Working dogs like the Malinois and German Shepherd were selected over generations for their intensity, persistence, and drive to engage in behaviors tied to the prey sequence: orient, stalk, chase, grab, bite, kill. In their role as police, protection, herding, or military dogs, these genetically encoded motor patterns are partially utilized—but directed toward human-defined tasks.

Fetch is an artificial mimicry of this prey sequence.
• Ball = prey
• Throwing = movement stimulus
• Chase = reinforcement
• Grab and return = closure and Reward - Reinforecment again.

Every time you throw that ball, you’re not just giving your dog “exercise.” You are triggering an evolutionary motor pattern that was designed to result in the death of prey. But here’s the twist:

The "kill bite" never comes.
There’s no closure. No end. No satisfaction, Except when he start chewing on the ball by himself, which lead to even more problems. So the dog is neurologically left in a state of arousal.

When your dog sees that ball, his brain lights up with dopamine. Anticipation, motivation, drive. When you throw it, adrenaline kicks in. It becomes a cocktail of high arousal and primal intensity.

Dopamine is not the reward chemical—it’s the pursuit chemical. It creates the urge to chase, to repeat the behavior. Adrenaline and cortisol, stress hormones, spike during the chase. Even though the dog “gets the ball,” the biological closure never really happens—because the pattern is reset, again and again, with each throw.

Now imagine doing this every single day.
The dog’s brain begins to wire itself for a constant state of high alert, constantly expecting arousal, movement, and stimulation. This is how we create chronic stress.

The autonomic nervous system has two main branches:

• Sympathetic Nervous System – “Fight, flight, chase”

• Parasympathetic Nervous System – “Rest, digest, recover”

Fetch, as a prey-driven game, stimulates the sympathetic system. The problem? Most owners never help the dog come down from that state.
There’s no decompression, no parasympathetic activation, no transition into rest.

Chronic sympathetic dominance leads to:
• Panting, pacing, inability to settle
• Destructive behaviors
• Hypervigilance
• Reactivity to movement
• Obsession with balls, toys, other dogs
• Poor sleep cycles
• Digestive issues
• A weakened immune system over time
• Behavioral burnout

In essence, we’re creating a dog who is neurologically trapped in the primal mind—always hunting, never resting.

Expectation Is a Form of Pressure!!!!!!

When fetch becomes a daily ritual, your dog begins to expect it.This is no longer “fun.” It’s a conditioned need. And when that need is not met?

Stress. Frustration. Obsession.

A dog who expects to chase every day but doesn’t get it may begin redirecting that drive elsewhere—chasing shadows, lights, children, other dogs, cars.
This is how pathological behavior patterns form.

Many people use fetch as a shortcut for physical exercise.

But movement is not the same as regulation.
Throwing a ball 100 times does not tire out a working dog—it wires him tighter.

What these dogs need is:
• Cognitive engagement
• Problem solving
• Relationship-based training
• Impulse control and on/off switches
• Scentwork or tracking to satisfy the nose-brain connection
• Regulated physical outlets like structured walks, swimming, tug with rules, or balanced sport work
• Recovery time in a calm environment

But What About Drive Fulfillment? Don’t They Need an Outlet?

Yes, and here’s the nuance:

Drive should be fulfilled strategically, not passively or impulsively. This is where real training philosophy comes in.

Instead of free-for-all ball throwing, I recommend:
• Tug with rules of out, impulse control, and handler engagement

• Controlled prey play with a flirt pole, used sparingly

• Engagement-based drive work with clear start and stop signals

• Training sessions that integrate drive, control, and reward

• Activities like search games, mantrailing, or protection sport with balance

• Working on “down in drive” — the ability to switch from arousal to rest

This builds a thinking dog, not a reactive one. The Bottom Line: Just Because He Loves It Doesn’t Mean It’s Good for Him

Your Malinois, German Shepherd, Dutchie, or other working dog may love the ball. He may bring it to you with joy. But the question is not what he likes—it’s what he needs.

A child may love candy every day, but a good parent knows better. As a trainer, handler, and caretaker, it’s your responsibility to think long term.
You’re not raising a dog for this moment. You’re developing a life companion, a regulated athlete, a resilient thinker.

So no—I don’t recommend playing ball every day.
Because every throw is a reinforcement of the primal mind.

And the primal mind, unchecked, cannot be reasoned with. It cannot self-regulate. It becomes a slave to its own instincts.

Train your dog to engage with you, not just the object. Teach arousal with control, play with purpose, and rest with confidence.

Your dog deserves better than obsession.He deserves balance. He deserves you—not just the ball.


Bart De Gols

04/21/2025

Be selective in who you let influence your training. If you wouldn't be willing to hand your dog over to them, that's a pretty good indicator you shouldn't be giving their advice, tips, tricks or feedback any mileage in your training journey.

04/12/2025

Why Walks Are About More Than Just Exercise for Your Dog

When most people think of walking their dog, they picture a brisk stroll meant to burn off energy or keep their pup in shape. While physical exercise is definitely important, walks offer so much more than just a chance to stretch the legs — they’re a full sensory experience for your dog.

Sniffing Is More Than Just a Habit — It’s Mental Stimulation

To us, a stop-and-sniff every few steps might feel like a delay. But to your dog, it’s a crucial part of the experience. A dog’s sense of smell is tens of thousands of times stronger than ours, and every scent on the sidewalk tells a story — who passed by, what they were doing, even how they were feeling. This kind of “reading the news” is mentally enriching and helps satisfy their natural curiosity.

Exploration Builds Confidence

Letting your dog take the lead now and then — zigzagging, pausing, circling back — gives them a chance to explore the world on their terms. This freedom can boost confidence, especially in shy or anxious dogs, and helps them become more comfortable with new environments.

Sniff Walks Help Reduce Stress

Much like how a mindful walk in nature can soothe a stressed human, a sniff-filled walk can do the same for your pup. When dogs are allowed to use their noses freely, it activates their brain in a calming way and can help lower cortisol (the stress hormone).

Embrace the Zigzag

So next time you’re out with your dog, resist the urge to tug them along the straight-and-narrow. Let them wander a bit, follow their nose, and take in all the scents the world has to offer. Walks are about bonding, enrichment, and exploration — not just burning calories.

After all, to your dog, the journey is the destination.
Noble Canyon K9 Facility

03/20/2025

Preparing Your Pup for Vet Visits: A Step-by-Step Guide

Preparing your dog for vet visits should begin as early as possible, ideally when they’re still a puppy. Establishing a positive association with the vet office and creating a routine around those visits can make the experience much more manageable for both you and your pup. Below is a step-by-step guide on how to prepare your dog for the vet, from their very first visit to the ongoing trips as they grow.

1. Start Early – Visit the Vet Office as a Puppy
The first step in preparing your dog for future vet visits is introducing them to the vet office as early as possible. This doesn’t need to be an appointment—just a casual visit will suffice. Bring your puppy to the vet office without the pressure of a medical examination, allowing them to get used to the sights, smells, and sounds of the environment.

2. Use the Vet Office to Practice Training
The vet office can also serve as an excellent space to practice training exercises, especially those that involve distractions. By visiting frequently and engaging in basic training in the waiting room, your puppy will learn to focus and stay calm despite being in a new environment.

3. Create a Consistent Routine
Dogs thrive on routine, and vet visits are no exception. Establish a consistent routine for each vet appointment to reduce anxiety and help your dog feel comfortable and secure.

4. Check In Before Getting Your Pup Out of the Crate
When we arrive at the vet, I always check my dog in before taking her out of her crate. This helps set the stage for a calm and orderly visit. By the time we’re ready to go inside, we’ve already started our routine and are ready to transition smoothly to the next step.

5. Food Test – Gauge Your Dog’s Stress Level
This food test is a valuable way to gauge your dog’s emotional state, and it helps determine how quickly you can proceed with the appointment.

6. Play and Train to Distract and Comfort
Once my pup has had time to decompress and feels comfortable, I move into playtime and training. I make sure to bring along a few of her favorite toys and treats to keep her engaged and distracted. Training and play can be a great way to reduce anxiety and make the vet visit feel more like a fun experience.

7. Advocate for Your Pup’s Comfort
When it’s time to meet with the vet or tech, I always advocate for my pup’s comfort by making requests for the best scenario possible. For example, we request that the tech come to my pup’s favorite chair to perform any necessary exams or procedures.

8. Decompress After the Appointment
By taking the time to decompress after each visit, you help your dog process the experience in a positive way, reinforcing the idea that vet visits are manageable and not something to fear.

Conclusion

Preparing your dog for vet visits is an ongoing process that begins early in life and involves creating positive associations with the vet office, establishing a consistent routine, and advocating for your dog’s comfort during each visit. By following these steps, you can help ensure that your pup remains calm and comfortable during their vet visits, making the experience easier for both of you. With patience and consistency, your dog will learn that the vet is just another place where they are cared for, and they’ll grow up to be a confident and well-adjusted pup at the vet.
Noble Canyon K9 Facility

03/14/2025

02/18/2025

The she-wolf has this habit of wrapping herself around the neck of her wolf because the neck is the most vulnerable part of the animal.

By doing so, she shows him her unconditional love.

For ethologists: Wolves are the most loyal and loving animals: they have only one partner throughout their life. The wolf is known to have an almost extraordinary tenderness and affection towards his she-wolf...which she knows perfectly well to return.
📸
By Stephanie Brown Photography

02/06/2025

Basic Obedience: Building a Strong Foundation for Your K9

When I take my dog out in public, I often get compliments about her behavior—“I want my dog to do that!” people say. But when I work with other handlers, I notice a common misconception: many think that simply knowing a command like “sit” is enough to achieve great obedience. However, what I’ve learned over the years is that true obedience stems from practicing the basics, consistently and deliberately.

It’s not just about saying a word and expecting the dog to comply. There’s so much more to it, especially with something as simple as a “sit.” For many, the approach looks something like this: “Hold your hand a certain way, say ‘sit’ a couple of times, and if they get it right on the first try, reward them!” But what happens when the dog gets up or walks away when they choose to? That’s a red flag that the dog hasn’t truly learned the command.

So, What Does Proper “Sit” Look Like?

You need to ask yourself: Does your dog really understand what “sit” means, or are they just guessing?

Here’s how you can evaluate:
1. Does the dog understand both the verbal and non-verbal cues?
• The sit command should be something they understand immediately and without hesitation. If your dog isn’t responding quickly, they haven’t fully grasped the command yet.
2. Is your dog able to hold the sit for a duration?
• A dog that gets up after a few seconds is not obeying a sit command—they’re guessing. In order for a dog to “sit,” they need to hold that position until you release them.
3. Release Command: Do You Have One?
• If you don’t have a release command (such as “free” or “okay”), your dog is not fully respecting the sit. Without a release command, they decide when the sit ends, not you. This shows they don’t understand the full concept.

So, what does proper “sit” training look like?
1. Understanding What’s Asked
• The first step is clarity. Does your dog know exactly what you mean when you say “sit”?
2. Verbal and Non-Verbal Cues
• Both your voice and body language should be in sync, and the dog should respond to both cues immediately, without the need to repeat the command.
3. Building Duration
• Once the dog understands, can they sit for longer than a few seconds? Gradually build up the duration, rewarding the dog for staying in position.
4. Sitting Under Distraction
• A true test of obedience: Can your dog hold the sit while a toy is thrown, or other distractions are happening around them? If your dog gets up, they haven’t mastered the command yet.
5. The Release
• And finally, can your dog remain seated until you release them with a specific command? If they leave the position without your release command, they’re still not fully trained.

The Key: Consistency in Basic Obedience

When I watch advanced trainers working with their dogs, what I often see is a focus on perfecting the basics, over and over again. They understand that a dog’s obedience is built on these small, consistent steps. The sit is one of many foundational behaviors that require repetition, patience, and incremental progress.

Why Basic Obedience Matters

When you sign up for a basic obedience class, it’s not just about learning commands. It’s about mastering the fundamentals: understanding the command, executing it properly, holding it for duration, and performing it under distraction. Your dog’s ability to sit properly is a building block for more advanced commands and behaviors. So, even if it seems like a simple task, it’s important to practice and reinforce these skills regularly.

Remember, mastering basic obedience isn’t just about teaching your dog; it’s about practicing these skills consistently so your dog can respond properly under any circumstance. So, the next time you’re working with your dog on the basics, take a step back and assess: Have you truly taught your dog the “sit,” or are they just guessing?
Noble Canyon K9 Facility

01/10/2025

She can excel in various tasks:
* track a scent for miles
* demonstrate impeccable obedience
* protect - guard - bite with no hesitation

However, the most crucial aspect for both of us is learning to slow down and simply exist in the moment. Teaching her to calm her nervous system and self-regulate is essential. This skill not only helps clear her mind but also empowers her to make wiser choices and savor life more fully. When she achieves this state of regulation, she can switch into work mode almost instantly, yet she also knows how to unwind when her tasks are complete. This ability to balance work and relaxation makes her remarkably stable compared to many others.

12/30/2024

While at the Texas Pet Sitters Conference recently, we had the chance to hear from Dr. Roy Madigan, a veterinarian, and the principal scientist in the Canine Chagas Treatment Study.

We felt it imperative to share with our clients, and our community, the surprising information we learned.

Chagas disease is a parastic disease that is spread by kissing bugs. Similar to heartworm disease, animals can become infected with Chagas if they're bitten by, or ingest, a kissing bug.

The symptoms of Chagas can show up in a variety of ways. For less severe cases, lethargy, decreased appetite and weight loss may present. In more severe cases, you may see fluid in the abdomen, heart failure, vomiting, and unfortunately, sudden death.

Dr. Madigan estimates that up to 23% of companion dogs in Texas currently are positive for Chagas (compared to about 3.3% that are heartworm positive).

Chagas tends to attack the heart tissue, and is a progressive disease. The most common symptom seen when this happens is arrhythmia. It is also known to attack the brain.

Testing for Chagas is not common. The pet owner usually has to seek it out. There is currently a reliable test called "ELISA" that costs around $120.00. Dr. Madigan tells us that by next year, a new version will be available that will cost around $35.00 and will include a heartworm test. It will be readily available to all veterinary practices. They are currently awaiting approval from the FDA.

The treatment for Chagas is in a pill form and lasts for 12 months. Dr. Madigan reports that while it is 100% effective, it does not fix the harm that has already been done to the body by the parasite.

Our best defense against Chagas is preventative action. Pyrethroid insecticides will kill kissing bugs. Oral flea and tick medicine will kill Chagas.

If you see your pet with a kissing bug, do not squish the bug. Use a plastic baggie to capture it (don't touch it!) and contact https://kissingbug.tamu.edu/contact/ for instructions on how to submit it for testing.

It takes up to three weeks for a pet to test positive after exposure to Chagas, so don't immediately get your pet tested.

It is not only dogs who get Chagas. Cats also are affected. Chagas is the number one cause of seizures in cats.

Humans can also get Chagas. If your pet tests positive, every pet in the house should be tested, as well as all humans.

Antibodies are not effective at preventing reinfection, so a vaccine is not an option. Researchers are currently working to develop a slow-release injectible to protect pets.

Our takeaways:

*Chagas is impacting more pets than most people know. If your pet is showing unusual symptoms, ask your veterinarian to test them for Chagas. The sooner it is detected, the better off your pet will fare.

*Chagas is a treatable disease.

*Be aware of your enviroment. Keep your yard clean. Turn off outdoor lighting. Bring pets inside at night. Remove piles of rocks, leaves or wood near your home. Keep vegetation trimmed regularly. If you find a kissing bug, submit it for testing.

*If your pet tests positive for Chagas, test ALL your pets. Also, test all humans in the house.

For more information, please visit https://kissingbug.tamu.edu and www.vidapharmacal.com

09/25/2024

I am excited to announce the addition of another dog to my nature therapy and recall program, enhancing our offerings with new drop-in sessions. These sessions are ideal for dogs that thrive on one-on-one attention, allowing us to explore a variety of outdoor environments beyond the city limits. From serene forest walks to expansive farmers' fields, these experiences will immerse the dogs in a rich tapestry of sounds and scents, encouraging them to get their paws dirty and engage with nature. This approach is incredibly beneficial for their mental and physical well-being.
While the dogs explore their surroundings, I will focus on reinforcing recall skills. For me, recall transcends simply responding to a call; it involves teaching dogs to assess their environment and make independent decisions. For instance, I want them to instinctively check in and return to me when they sense a vehicle approaching, without needing a command. This skill is paramount for their safety and overall development, as it fosters a sense of awareness and responsibility in the dogs.
By integrating these elements into our program, I aim to create a well-rounded experience that not only nurtures the dogs' instincts but also strengthens the bond between them and their handlers. The combination of nature exploration and focused training will ensure that each dog leaves our sessions more confident and attuned to their surroundings. I look forward to seeing the positive impact this will have on their growth and happiness.

Please TEXT 250-808-4432 for more information. Or email [email protected]

09/17/2024

Understanding dog body language is crucial for any dog owner. Many individuals often focus on the playful antics of their pets, overlooking subtle cues that indicate discomfort or stress. Recognizing these warning signs can prevent misunderstandings and potential conflicts. Furthermore, allowing dogs to correct each other in a healthy way fosters social skills and helps them learn appropriate behaviors. This not only strengthens their communication but also promotes a harmonious environment among dogs. By being attentive to their body language and encouraging positive interactions, owners can enhance their dogs' well-being and social dynamics.

09/05/2024

Such an easy loop to get into and such a difficult one to break. 🤦
Over aroused/ "hyper" dogs.
They want MORE so we give them more.....sounds like a good plan, right ?
This is exactly what the majority of these dogs DON"T need.

I get it.
Nothing seems like enough for these dogs.
There wouldn't be a week go by where I don't have a handful of clients affected.

Make no mistake, for the vast majority of these dogs all MORE does is exacerbate the issue and create "adrenaline junkies" that NEED and WANT more....much more than anyone can give.
The stamina these dogs have built up is incredible....and that isn't a good thing.

There are those in the industry that believe the answer to hyper and over aroused dogs is to exercise them harder, faster and for longer. It is endemic in the dog training world that these dogs need to be "tired out more" by heavier exercise and physical activity.
Then there are those in the industry that KNOW the huge issues these dogs are facing and how absolutely damaging the "prescription" of more exercise can be.

You cannot throw that ball enough.....
You cannot walk/run them enough......
You cannot tire them out enough.....as physical exhaustion only "fuels" this behaviour.

If you want more information there is also a video on this in the comments✅.

When those physically exhausted dogs wake up.......the over aroused/hyper loop starts all over again.
However if you recognise it.....you can help this.

Not all the behaviours shown are behaviours only shown by hyper aroused/overly excited dogs but these are definitely common to those particular dogs.

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