22/02/2023
HOW TO BREED RABBITS🐰🐰
Today I want to teach about rabbit breeding. It appears as if it's just a simple process of mating a male and a female rabbit then wait for a month to get baby bunnies. Well, that's not the case.
Time will come when you breed your rabbits and they don't fall pregnant or give birth. Time will come when your rabbits will give birth to just two or 3 kits only. Time will come when the buck refuses to service the doe. These are some of the challenges this lesson seeks to address.
The first thing to take note of is that rabbits and human beings are totally different. Father rabbit and mother rabbit should NOT stay together in the same hutch. They should only be together for a few minutes during mating. Keeping them together as husband and wife may bring problems in future, they may, especially the buck, refuse to mate. I won't mention that it's the female that should be taken to the male rabbit's hutch when mating the rabbits because everyone knows that.
The best strategy when breeding rabbits is to see the actual mating taking place, as soon as a maximus of 3 falls is complete, it's advisable to take the doe back to her hutch, but first check if her "lula lula honey jar" is wet and oilly - a sure sign that the mating was successful.
Do u know that it's possible for a doe to be bred by 2 different bucks and give birth at once to kits fathered by two different bucks? This is because rabbits concieve 8 to 10 hours after mating has taken place, so you can breed a doe with a NZW now then a californian 8 to 10 hours later, and 31 days later, mama rabbit will give birth to both new zealand white and californian kits.
This teaches us that it's strongly advised to breed your rabbits 8 to 10 hours after the first successful mating as this increases the chances of conceiving and the number of kits the doe will deliver. So it's best to have just 3 successful mating falls, take the doe back to her hutch.
After 2 weeks you can start pulpating the doe (using your fingers to try and feel if there are small solid items in the rabbit's tummy). This is not an hour easy task, it can take you over 6 months to be able to do it successfully. So while you're still learning to pulpate, you can do the scale method, that's the easiest but not so accurate. From the time a rabbit falls pregnant to the time it gives birth, it would have gained 400g to 600g, depending on its breed and the number of kits its going to deliver. So if a female rabbit has gained over 250g about 2 weeks after mating then chances are that the doe is indeed pregnant.
From that 2-week-mark moment, it's best to start increasing the amount of pellets you give to your doe, otherwise if there is a lack of adequate food supply, the doe's body will disolve some of the foetuses in its tummy. This is why wild rabbits(hares) often give birth to 2 or 3 kits per litter. Personally I give unlimited pellets from the time the doe is 3 weeks pregnant until the bunnies are 3 and half weeks old. This helps in the milk production,which in turn results in healthier bunnies.
When to breed the doe again? Well, this is purely personal and specific to one's needs. - The best breeding results come from rabbits that are bred 8 weeks after they give birth, assuming that you wean the bunnies as late as possible. The longer you take to wean the bunnies the healthier they are. The only challenge with this breeding strategy is that it won't give you as many kits as possible per year, but u'll get the healthiest ones. So if you need healthy bunnies and very low mortality rates then wean at 8 weeks. If you want as many bunnies as possible then wean at 5 to 6 weeks after birth. Weaning at 4 to 5 weeks is NOT a good idea because most deadly diseases hit bunnies that are 5 weeks old, so that's the time they need their mother's milk the most.
Another great strategy is to breed the doe 21 days after giving birth then wean the kits at the 6 week mark so that the pregnant doe has 1 more week to regain her weight and prepare to give birth again.
If there is a buck that's refusing to mate with a doe, then you may need to try with a different doe and see if he will show interest. Some rabbits (both males and females) prefer mating with certain partners. Another trick is to take the buck to the doe's hutch and take the doe to the buck's hutch then let them spend a night in each other's hutch like that. In the morning *TAKE BUCK TO THE DOE* and see if they will show interest in mating. This is the only time where you must take buck to a doe for mating, in every other case it's the doe that goes to the buck. If this doesn't work then chances are the buck is overweight, so for 3 to 4 weeks limit the amount of food you give him then try again.
If it's the doe that's refusing to mate, then use the rubber band to do FORCED MATING
MASH RABBIT KINDOM