Merrimajeel Working Stock Dogs

Merrimajeel Working Stock Dogs Merrimajeel Working Stock Dogs builds reliable dogs and confident handlers through education. Proud Ambassadors of Mother’s Best Pet Nutrition.
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From obedience to advanced stock work, we produce calm, capable dogs for home and paddock. TuffRock Australia

02/09/2026

🐄 FROM YARDS & TRUCKS TO CATTLE PADDOCKS — MERRIMAJEEL DUKE IS MAKING THE SWITCH! 🐄
We absolutely love getting updates on dogs we’ve bred, and this one from Amy Dickins has made us pretty proud! ❤️
Merrimajeel Duke is from our breeding Gogetta Rippa (dec) × S’Bred Bonnie V, and he’s now made the move to Queensland to a cattle property with Amy and the rest of her crew, stepping into a completely different environment and type of work.

Amy’s update says it all:
“Dukes a cattle dog now, I’ve moved to QLD on a cattle property. This is his first time in the paddock with them. Then after this video I sat at the front of the mob with 4 of my dogs behind the mob, Duke included, and we walked 15ks. He’s going extremely well. I’m very impressed how quick he has switched to cows considering he’s never seen them and how well he is going in the paddock, considering most of my work with him has been yards and truck.”
That’s what we love to see in a working dog, the ability to adapt.

Duke had primarily been working in yards and around the truck, and now he’s stepped into the paddock with cattle and is taking it all in his stride. To go from never seeing cattle to settling into a 15km paddock job with the mob is a fantastic effort.
A good working dog isn't always defined by the job it starts with, it’s the dog underneath that determines how far it can go.

Very proud of this young dog, he’s only 17 months old and a huge thank you to Amy for taking the time to send us the update. ❤️

Keep up the great work, Amy and Duke! 🐕🐄
Gogetta Rippa (dec) × S’Bred Bonnie V

Merrimajeel Working Stockdogs are fuelled by Mother's Best Pet Nutrition and conditioned by TuffRock Australia
31/08/2026

Merrimajeel Working Stockdogs are fuelled by Mother's Best Pet Nutrition and conditioned by TuffRock Australia

31/08/2026

Wombeyan Leo 🫶

27/08/2026

The Lees Hairy relocating some ewes to another paddock - the importance of having a good dog to do the work needed

Fuelled by Mother's Best Pet Nutrition and TuffRock Australia

🐕 LET'S TALK WORKING DOGS — WHAT HAVE THEY TAUGHT YOU? 🐑We've talked a lot lately about working dogs training, pressure,...
20/08/2026

🐕 LET'S TALK WORKING DOGS — WHAT HAVE THEY TAUGHT YOU? 🐑
We've talked a lot lately about working dogs training, pressure, communication, directionals, confidence, stock sense, handler mistakes, body language and the relationship between the dog, the handler and the livestock.
But today I don't want to write another article telling you what I think.
I want to hear from you.
Because every handler has a different story.
Every dog teaches us something different.
And sometimes the lessons we learn from one dog completely change the way we approach the next.

🐕 WHAT HAS YOUR DOG TAUGHT YOU?
Maybe you've had the dog that made you slow down.
The dog that taught you patience.
The soft dog that showed you how easily too much pressure can destroy confidence.
The strong-minded dog that made you become a better communicator.
The young dog that taught you that rushing foundations doesn't get you there any quicker.
Or perhaps you've had the dog that completely challenged everything you thought you knew.
What did that dog teach you?

🐑 WHAT HAVE THE STOCK TAUGHT YOU?
One thing I firmly believe is that livestock are educators too.
Sheep don't all react the same.
Cattle certainly don't all react the same.
Some stock teach a dog to have confidence.
Some teach it to respect pressure.
Some teach it to slow down.
Some teach it to think.
And some stock will expose a weakness in a dog or handler that you didn't even realise was there.
I've often thought that the cattle and sheep are probably some of the best teachers a handler can have.
What have your stock taught you about working dogs?

👣 WHAT HAVE YOUR DOGS TAUGHT YOU ABOUT YOURSELF?
This one can be a hard question.
Because sometimes the biggest lesson isn't about the dog.
It's about us.
Maybe we were too quick.
Too loud.
Too much pressure.
Not enough pressure.
Standing in the wrong position.
Giving too many commands.
Trying to fix everything ourselves.
Expecting too much too soon.
I've certainly learnt that sometimes the problem isn't that the dog doesn't understand.
It's that I haven't communicated clearly enough.
Has a dog ever made you look at your own handling differently?

🔄 WHAT ABOUT DIRECTIONALS?
We've recently talked about the importance of developing a working language with our dogs.
Round.
Over.
Come behind.
Here.
Off.
Get out.
Walk in.
Front.
Get over.
Gate.

Different handlers will use different words and whistles.
That's not really the important part.
The important part is whether the dog understands what that cue means in the context of the work.
Have you found certain directionals particularly valuable?
Have you taught them from a young age?
Do you introduce them gradually?
Or have you found that some directionals have naturally developed through working the dog?

🧠 HOW MUCH DO YOU COMMAND?
Here's another one I'd love opinions on.
Do you think handlers sometimes over-command their dogs?
We've all been there.
The dog makes a mistake and suddenly we're talking non-stop.
"Here! Get out! Come on! Round! Walk in! Back! Here!"
Meanwhile the dog is trying to work out which instruction actually matters.
Have you found that saying less has improved your dog's work?
Or do you prefer a more verbal style of handling?

🦯 AND WHAT ABOUT TRAINING AIDS?
We've also talked about using an extension such as a thin pole or rake when body language alone isn't enough.
Used correctly, it can simply extend the handler's body language.
But it should never become a tool of force, fear or punishment.
And once the dog gives the desired response, the pressure needs to come off.
Pressure on.
Pressure off.
Have you used an extension when developing a young dog?
Did you find it helped?
Or have you found other ways to achieve the same communication?

✖️ AND THE WORKING CROSS?
For those who use a working cross, I'd love to hear how you developed it.
Did it come naturally?
Did you deliberately teach it?
What foundations did you put in place first?
And what do you believe the working cross adds to a dog's ability to work stock?

❤️ MOST IMPORTANTLY...
I don't think there is one magic method that produces a good working dog.
There are different breeds.
Different bloodlines.
Different personalities.
Different livestock.
Different environments.
Different handlers.
And different ways of communicating.
But I do think we can all learn from each other.
One person's experience might save another handler months of frustration.
One mistake might teach someone else what not to do.
One success might give someone the idea they've been looking for.
So today, rather than me giving you another training lecture, let's make this one a conversation.
👇 Tell me about your working dogs.
• What's the biggest lesson a dog has taught you?
• What's the biggest mistake you've made as a handler?
• What has livestock taught you?
• What training method has made the biggest difference to your dogs?
• What's one thing you would do differently with your next young dog?
• Do you use directionals? Which ones?
• Do you believe handlers over-command?
• And what do you think makes the difference between a dog that simply obeys and a dog that genuinely understands its work?
Good, bad, successful, unsuccessful , share it.
There is no shame in admitting we've made mistakes.
Most good handlers I know have made plenty.
The difference is that they learnt from them.
Let's hear the experiences, opinions and lessons from the people actually out there working dogs and stock.

🐕 Let's learn from each other. 🐑🐂🐐

🐕 **DIRECTIONALS — BUILDING THE LANGUAGE OF A WORKING DOG** 🐑When we talk about directionals in working dogs, I think so...
20/08/2026

🐕 **DIRECTIONALS — BUILDING THE LANGUAGE OF A WORKING DOG** 🐑

When we talk about directionals in working dogs, I think sometimes we make the subject far too basic.

It isn't simply about teaching a dog a couple of commands and expecting it to turn left or right.

In our working dogs, directionals are a way of communicating **where we want the dog to go, how we want it to position itself, how much pressure we want it to apply and how we want it to influence stock.**

For us, that language might be:

**ROUND • OVER • COME BEHIND • HERE • OFF • GET OUT • WALK IN • FRONT • GET OVER • GATE**

There are many different words and whistles handlers use, and that's perfectly fine. The important thing isn't that every handler uses exactly the same terminology.

**The important thing is that the dog understands what its handler's cues mean.**

🛑 STOP FIRST, THEN DIRECTION

Before asking a young dog to move in different directions, I want that dog to understand a **stop or a sit**.

The stop gives us a way to interrupt movement, reset the situation and start again.

It teaches the dog that working isn't always about constantly pushing forward.

Sometimes the job is to stop.

Sometimes to wait.

Sometimes to take information from the handler before making the next move.

➡️ DIRECTIONALS ARE LEARNT IN INCREMENTS

We shouldn't expect a young dog to understand a full directional movement in one session.

It happens in **small increments**.

A little movement.

Then another.

Then another.

We gradually build the dog's understanding until it can perform the complete movement.

We also need to recognise the difference between **a dog that doesn't understand and a dog that is refusing.**

If it doesn't understand, more pressure isn't necessarily the answer.

Go back to where the dog was successful and build from there.

The aim is to make the movement understandable, not to force the dog into it.

🦯 SOMETIMES AN EXTENSION CAN HELP

There are times when our own body language simply isn't enough to achieve the result we're looking for.

A thin pole, rake or suitable extension can be a useful training tool.

But remember:

**The extension is a communication tool NOT a weapon.**

It should never be used forcefully, to frighten, intimidate or punish a dog.

Its purpose is to extend our body language when our own body can't quite achieve the required result.

And once the dog understands what we're asking, we should need that extension less and less.

🔄 PRESSURE ON — PRESSURE OFF

This is something we've spoken about before in relation to body pressure.

Our body is constantly communicating with our dog.

Where we stand.

Where we look.

Our shoulders.

Our posture.

Whether we move towards or away.

The extension becomes another part of that communication.

**Raise the extension — pressure increases.**

**Lower the extension — pressure releases.**

** Position the extension to create a change - block**

And this is extremely important.

Once the dog gives us the **desired response**, particularly when using an extension, we need to **lower it.**

The pressure comes off.

The dog learns:

*"I gave the handler the response they wanted, the pressure has gone."*

That's communication.

If we achieve the desired result but continue holding the extension up, we're continuing to apply pressure when there is no longer a reason for it.

We're not trying to make the extension more powerful.

**We're trying to make the dog more understanding.**

➡️ THEN WE DEVELOP THE SIDES

Once the foundations are established, we can start developing lateral movement.

The dog learns that it can change its position across the working line without losing connection with the handler or stock.

A dog shouldn't only understand how to go around stock.

It needs to eventually understand how to **move across its working line.**

It may need to:

• Cover stock breaking away
• Close a gap
• Protect an edge
• Change the angle of pressure
• Reposition itself
• Move from one side of the work to the other

This is where directionals become much more than basic obedience.

The dog starts learning:

**“Where I move affects where the stock move.”**

🐕 ROUND • OVER • COME BEHIND

Our working language develops from there.

**Round** — positioning the dog around the stock.

**Over** — asks the dog to change direction from the round and take the stock the opposite way.

**Come behind** — repositioning the dog behind the handler to influence them from another angle.

These aren't simply words.

The dog needs to understand the movement associated with each cue **and how that movement affects livestock.**

↩️ HERE • OFF • GET OUT

**Here** — brings the dog back into connection with the handler or work.

**Off** — reduces pressure and creates space.

**Get out** — creates more distance when the dog is getting too tight or applying too much pressure.

We're not just directing where the dog travels.

We're influencing **how the dog works.**

🚶 WALK IN

*Walk in* should develop into controlled pressure.

It isn't simply telling the dog to go forward.

The dog learns it can apply pressure without rushing, chasing or blowing the stock apart.

That control becomes extremely important as the work becomes more complicated.

The dog learns to apply pressure without losing its head.

🚪 FRONT, RIGHT UP, GET OVER AND GATE

There are also directionals that become particularly useful around **gates, corners, yards and areas where stock have an opportunity to escape.**

**Front** is one example.

A handler may use *front* to ask the dog to get ahead of the stock and cover the front, particularly when approaching a gate or when stock are trying to get away in front, or even when backing sheep along a drench race.

** Right Up** where they cover all the way up to the front of the drench race to pack it tight.

**Get over** may be used to move the dog across to cover an opening, change its position or protect the line.

Some handlers may also use **gate** as a specific cue for the dog to move into position to cover or hold a gate.

There are many variations, and different handlers will develop their own language depending on how they work their dogs.

That's okay.

The important thing isn't whether everyone uses the same word or whistle.

**The important thing is that the dog understands what that word or whistle means in the context of the work.**

A really educated dog doesn't just hear *front* and think:

*"Move forward."*

It begins to understand:

**"Get yourself into a position where you can cover the front and prevent those stock from getting away."**

That's a much deeper level of understanding.

The dog is learning the **job associated with the directional**, not simply memorising a word.

✖️ AND THEN COMES THE WORKING CROSS

This is where the foundations start coming together.

The working cross isn't a trick.

It shouldn't be taught simply because it looks impressive.

It is an extension of the dog's understanding of:

**Direction • Lateral movement • Position • Pressure**

The dog learns to move across the working line while remaining connected to the stock and the handler.

It can change its angle.

Cover stock.

Close a gap.

Alter pressure.

Change the direction of the work.

And do it without the handler having to physically move into every situation.

That is the value of properly developed directionals.

🐑 STOCK BECOME ANOTHER TEACHER

Once these movements go onto stock, the livestock become part of the education.

Sheep will react differently to cattle.

Quiet stock will react differently to flighty stock.

Different mobs will challenge the dog differently.

The dog has to learn to adjust.

This is where we discover whether the dog actually understands the directional or is simply following a rehearsed movement.

A good working dog eventually learns:

**“If I move here, the stock respond there.”**

That's where directionals start becoming part of genuine stock sense.

👣 AND THE HANDLER HAS TO LEARN TOO

Teaching directionals doesn't just educate the dog.

It educates us.

We need to constantly ask:

**Where is my dog?
Where are my stock?
Where is the pressure?
Where does my dog need to be?
How much movement is actually required?
Do I even need to give a command?**

Sometimes it's *round.*

Sometimes *over.*

Sometimes *come behind.*

Sometimes *get out.*

Sometimes *walk in.*

Sometimes *front.*

Sometimes *get over.*

Sometimes *gate.*

And sometimes the best command is **nothing at all.**

Let the dog work.

🧠 DON'T OVER-COMMAND

Once the dog understands the language, we need to trust it.

Constantly repeating commands turns communication into background noise.

Give the cue.

Give the dog time to respond.

Watch.

Then make your next decision.

The goal isn't a dog that waits for us to dictate every single step.

The goal is a dog that understands the language well enough to work independently while remaining connected to us.

❤️ DIRECTIONALS CREATE FREEDOM

That's ultimately why I believe directionals are so important to instil in our working dogs.

They don't restrict the dog's ability to work.

**They give the dog more freedom because the handler and dog have developed a common language.**

We can influence the dog when we need to.

Change its position.

Adjust its pressure.

Ask for a cross.

Cover a break.

Protect a gate.

Bring the dog back.

And then get out of the way and let the dog use its own ability.

Not a robot.

Not a dog constantly waiting for instructions.

But a dog that understands its handler, understands its job and has enough education to make good decisions.

**Start with the stop.**

**Build the movement in increments.**

**Use your body language.**

**Use an extension when necessary as a communication aid, never as a forceful or negative tool.**

**Learn pressure on and pressure off.**

**Lower the extension once the dog gives the desired response.**

**Build the sides.**

**Develop lateral movement.**

**Teach the dog what each directional actually means in the work.**

**Then develop the working cross.**

Because when directionals are properly instilled, you're not just teaching a dog where to go.

**You're teaching a working dog how to communicate with you while it works.**

And that's where the real partnership between handler, dog and livestock starts to develop. 🐕🐑

Pressure, Release and the Education of the HandlerWhen we talk about working dogs and livestock, we often focus heavily ...
16/08/2026

Pressure, Release and the Education of the Handler

When we talk about working dogs and livestock, we often focus heavily on the dog.

How much pressure should the dog apply?
How much eye should it have?
Should it be stronger on the stock?
Should it back off?
Should we correct it?

But there is another part of the equation that is often overlooked:

The handler.

Before we can expect a dog to become a good reader of livestock, we need to become better readers of livestock ourselves.

And one of the best ways to do that is to spend time moving stock without a dog.

Learn livestock before expecting your dog to
Put the dog away and get amongst the sheep or cattle.

•Move them through a yard.
•Walk them through a gateway.
•Turn them.
•Stop them.
•Start them again.
•Change direction.

Separate one animal and bring it back into the mob. Watch what happens when you step forward. Then step sideways. Then stop.
Then take a step backwards.

You will quickly discover that your body is communicating with livestock whether you realise it or not. Your shoulders, feet, speed, direction, posture and position all create pressure, livestock respond to that pressure.

The more time we spend learning this ourselves, the better we become at understanding what our dogs are doing when they are working.

Pressure ON and pressure OFF
Pressure isn't simply about pushing livestock from one place to another.
It is a conversation.
Pressure ON creates a response.
Pressure OFF allows that response to settle.

You apply pressure when you need movement.
The stock respond.
Then you reduce or remove that pressure when they are doing what you want.

That release is incredibly important.
•If the stock are moving correctly, why keep pushing?
•If they have taken the direction you wanted, why continue increasing pressure?

Sometimes the best thing you can do is simply back off and let them travel.
This is something handlers need to learn for themselves before they can expect their dogs to understand it.
Cattle are exceptional educators
Cattle can be particularly valuable teachers because they don't always react like sheep.
Sheep may readily move away from pressure.
Cattle can stand their ground.
They may look at you.
They may turn and face pressure.
They may move one at a time rather than as a group.
They can accelerate, stop suddenly, split, turn back or challenge the pressure being applied.
That makes cattle very good at exposing weaknesses in a handler.
If you walk straight at cattle and simply keep increasing pressure, they can teach you very quickly that more pressure isn't always the answer.
•Perhaps your angle is wrong.
•Perhaps you are blocking where they want to go.
•Perhaps you have given them nowhere to travel.
•Perhaps you have gone too far into their flight zone.
•Perhaps they simply need you to change your position rather than increase your pressure.
Cattle make you think.
And thinking is a very important part of becoming a better handler.
Learn to read the smallest response
Good stock handling isn't about waiting until livestock are running before we recognise that they are moving.

We should be looking for the small signs.
•A head turns.
•An ear moves.
•A shoulder changes direction.
•An animal shifts its feet.
•The mob starts to loosen.
•One animal begins to lead.

Those small changes are the livestock communicating with us.
If we recognise those signs early enough, we can adjust our pressure before the situation escalates.

This is where good timing comes from.
Not from constantly doing more, but from learning to do something at the right moment.
Too much pressure can create the problem
One of the biggest mistakes handlers can make is remaining in the "ON" position for too long.
The stock respond, but we keep pushing.
The dog responds, but we keep correcting.
The cattle move, but we keep walking at them.
Eventually the livestock can become reactive rather than responsive.
•Instead of walking, they run.
•Instead of staying together, they scatter.
•Instead of travelling where we want them to go, they start looking for somewhere else to escape.
Then we blame the dog for being too hard, too fast or too strong.
Sometimes the dog isn't the original problem.
The pressure being applied around the dog may be the problem.

Then we introduce the working dog
Once we understand what our own body pressure does to livestock, we can start to understand what the dog's pressure is doing.
A working dog communicates with livestock through:
•Position
•Movement
•Speed
•Distance
•Eye
•Direction
•Presence
•Pressure and release
The dog moves into the livestock's flight zone and creates a response.
The livestock move.
The dog should then be able to adjust its pressure according to what the stock are telling it.
This is where good stock work becomes almost a conversation.
Pressure ON.
Livestock respond.
Pressure OFF.
Livestock settle.
Pressure ON again when movement is required.
The dog is constantly reading the stock, and the stock are constantly reading the dog.
A good dog knows when to back off
We sometimes place so much emphasis on a dog's ability to push stock that we forget how valuable its ability to release pressure actually is.
A good dog isn't necessarily the dog that is always closest to the livestock.
Sometimes the better dog is the one that knows when to give them room.
It understands that if it backs away slightly, the stock may travel more freely.
It understands that pushing harder isn't always going to create better movement.
It learns that pressure can be increased when movement is needed and reduced when the stock are responding correctly.
That is a dog that is thinking.
The handler has to learn the same lesson
The handler needs to be able to recognise when the dog is doing the right thing.
If the dog takes the correct line, let it.
If it slows down appropriately, don't immediately ask for more.
If it backs away and the stock respond positively, don't push it straight back in.
If it gives the stock space and they settle, understand why.
The handler's job isn't to constantly tell the dog what to do.
It is to communicate, observe and make adjustments.
Sometimes the most important command we give our dog is the one we don't give.
Pressure on the dog also comes from the handler
We often talk about the dog's pressure on livestock, but we also need to consider the pressure we put on the dog.
Our body position, voice, movement, commands, corrections and even our emotions can influence the dog's behaviour.
A handler who is constantly pressuring a dog can create a dog that constantly pressures livestock.
A handler who is inconsistent can create uncertainty.
A handler who doesn't recognise the release may continue applying pressure after the dog has already given the correct response.
And a handler who understands pressure and release can teach a dog to think for itself.
The dog learns:
When I give the correct response, pressure comes off.
That is powerful learning.
Every dog is different
There is no single pressure setting that works for every dog.
A young pup may require very little.
A soft or sensitive dog may need an extremely light approach and very quick releases.
A confident, strong-minded dog may tolerate more pressure.
A dog entering a new environment may require less pressure than it normally does.
A dog that is uncertain may need time rather than more pressure.
This is why good handlers don't simply apply a formula.
They read the individual dog.
They read the livestock.
And they adjust.
Handler education should never stop
I think one of the biggest opportunities we have in working-dog education is to put more emphasis on teaching handlers about livestock themselves.
Don't just teach people where to stand when they have a dog.
•Teach them why.
•Teach them about flight zones.
•Teach them about balance.
•Teach them about pressure.
•Teach them about release.
•Teach them how cattle react differently from sheep.
•Teach them how individual animals can change the behaviour of an entire mob.
•Teach them how their own body affects livestock.

Then teach them to recognise those same principles when the dog is working.
Because when you understand livestock, you begin to understand the dog.
And when you understand the dog, you become a better communicator.

The ultimate goal
The goal isn't to have a dog that simply responds to constant pressure from the handler.
The goal is to develop a dog that understands livestock and can make good decisions while still remaining connected to its handler.
Likewise, the goal isn't to control livestock by constantly pushing them.
The goal is to influence their movement with the least amount of pressure necessary to achieve the desired result.
That takes feel.
•It takes timing.
•It takes observation.
•It takes experience.
And most importantly, it takes education.
So, sometimes, before we take the dog out to train, we should put the dog away.
Go and move the stock ourselves.
•Learn what our own pressure does.
•Learn when to step in.
•Learn when to step away.
•Learn when livestock need more pressure.
•Learn when they need less.
Then take those lessons back to the dog.
Because the best working-dog handlers aren't just good at handling dogs.
They understand livestock.
And once we understand that the handler's pressure influences the dog, the dog's pressure influences the livestock, and the livestock are constantly communicating back to both of them, working livestock becomes what it should be:
A conversation between three parties — handler, dog and stock.
And the better we become at listening, the better our dogs become at working.

12/08/2026

Buying a Started Dog Doesn’t Mean Buying a Finished Dog

There is a mindset I see far too often when it comes to buying working dogs:

“I’ve spent good money on a started dog, so it should hit the ground running.”

Whether you have spent $2,000, $10,000, $20,000 or $50,000 on a dog, the reality is the same:

You have bought a dog — not a machine.

One mistake I see regularly, whether it is after an auction or a private sale, is the new owner being very quick to say:

“It’s not doing what I saw on the video.”
“It’s not working like it did in the demonstration.”
“This isn’t what I was told the dog could do.”

Sometimes that may genuinely be the case.
But before pointing the finger at the seller, breeder or previous handler, there is another question that needs to be asked:

“Have I given this dog enough time to adjust, and have I actually put the foundations in with it?”

Because the dog you watched working belonged to a different partnership.
It knew that handler.
It knew their voice, their whistle, their body position, their pressure, their timing and their expectations.

Then you take that same dog home and expect it to immediately perform at the same level with a person it has never worked for before.
That's not necessarily realistic.

A dog coming from an auction, a different property, a different handler or a completely different working environment is going to need time to settle in.
Different yards.
Different stock.
Different smells.
Different terrain.
Different commands.
Different expectations.

And most importantly, a different handler.
The dog doesn't automatically know you.
And you don't know the dog yet either.

You don't know exactly how it will respond when you're under pressure, how it reads different stock, how much pressure it can handle, what makes it switch off, or what brings out its best work.

That relationship has to be built.
The video is a snapshot, not a guarantee of what happens on day one.

A video can show you what a dog is capable of.
A demonstration can show you what a dog has been trained to do.
The seller can tell you about its experience, education and strengths.
But none of those things remove the responsibility of the new owner to continue the work.

A started dog isn't a push-button dog.
And even an extremely experienced working dog may need to go backwards before it can move forwards in a new environment.

Patience is part of the purchase.
One of the biggest mistakes a new owner can make is expecting too much, too soon.
They buy a dog because they saw it work beautifully for someone else, take it home and expect exactly the same performance from day one.

Then, when the dog doesn't perform at the same level, they start pushing harder.
Commands become more frequent. Pressure increases. Frustration builds.
And before long, a perfectly good dog can start losing confidence.

Sometimes the problem isn't the dog.
The problem is that the handler hasn't allowed the dog enough time to become their dog.

Give it time to settle.

Let it learn its new surroundings. Let it learn you. Go back over some of the basics. Work it without constantly trying to prove what you bought.
Build communication.
Build trust.
Build consistency.

And most importantly, give the dog permission to make the transition without having a stopwatch running over its head.

There is a difference between a dog being experienced and a dog being experienced with you.
And that difference matters.

I've seen dogs purchased for big money that struggled initially in a new environment, only to become outstanding dogs once their new handler stopped trying to force the result and started building the partnership.

Likewise, I've seen dogs that looked exceptional for their previous owner become completely different dogs when rushed, overhandled or continually compared to what they were when they were first viewed.

Don't buy the dog and expect it to immediately become the dog you saw.
Give it the opportunity to become the dog you can work with.
And remember, the responsibility doesn't end when the hammer falls or the money changes hands.

If you've done your homework, asked the right questions, watched the dog work and understood what you were buying, then give that dog a fair opportunity to settle and show you what it can do.

Because regardless of whether you spend $2,000 or $50,000, there is still one thing you cannot buy:
Time.
And there is no substitute for it.

A good working dog deserves the chance to settle, learn, adjust and build a relationship with its new handler.

Buy the dog for its potential, respect what it already knows, and then put the time in to build something together.

The price tag might buy the dog.
It doesn't buy the partnership.

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Gisborne, VIC
3437

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