Sidney Aarons Professional Dog Training

07/06/2026

Why is my dog anxious?

Anxiety in humans is often a state of learned helplessness — something we can be taught. I’ve experienced crippling anxiety myself, but I learned the hard way how to overcome it: by confronting the things that triggered me. My anxiety came from years of abuse, neglect, and psychological/emotional manipulation as a child and young adult. In other words, I had to build a functional coping strategy.

Seeing a dog trapped in learned helplessness is heartbreaking.
Clear signs include
Freezing, this more commonly seen is shelters or boarding kennels
Curling up
Lip licking
Uncontrolled urination or defecation
Avoiding eye contact
High-pitched frantic barking or screaming
Desperate escape attempts.
At this point, the dog has gone far beyond its ability to cope.

Most behaviour problems stem from insufficient early socialisation during the critical period of 7–16 weeks of age. The majority of the most important socialisation happens by 12 weeks.

Genetics also play a major role. Even if your dog’s parents are confident, that doesn’t automatically make your dog confident without proper early learning and socialisation. Think of genetic confidence like the fuel tank in a car:
A bigger tank gives more potential.
But if you don’t fill it through positive early experiences, you still won’t get far.
A naturally smaller tank means the dog starts with less resilience.

As a full-time dog trainer, I help dogs with these issues every day and have supported thousands of families in understanding and managing their dog’s anxiety.
All dogs have the capacity to improve without medication.
Medications only sedate the dog. While owners may see a quick change, it’s usually just the sedation preventing normal reactions. Over time the dog builds tolerance, symptoms return (often worse), and the cycle leads to stronger or more medications.

I recently worked with a dog on three different medications. The heavy sedation was actually blocking real learning and counter-conditioning. Once the meds were stopped, the difference was remarkable. The dog still needed consistent training for his significant issues, but his learning speed and impulse control improved dramatically.

There are so many conflicting opinions on treating anxiety and learned helplessness. If an explanation doesn’t make logical sense, or training isn’t progressing while excuses are made, it’s worth questioning.

So where do you start?

For anxiety and behaviour problems, I usually begin with 3 private lessons (one per week, or sometimes every 3 days), as long as the owner is training at least twice daily. This allows me to assess progress and adjust the plan. We then move into group classes to continue the education.

These issues can almost always be fixed or dramatically improved. It takes time, patience, and understanding. I see far too many dogs surrendered to shelters or rescues that could have stayed in their homes with the right guidance and effort.



www.sidneyaarons.com.au
0408 283 283

05/06/2026

Vanessa contacted me a few weeks ago because her Mini Dachshund, Cadbury, was showing extreme fearful aggression and uncontrollable barking both at home and out and about. Everything she had tried hadn’t worked.

But after just 3 lessons, little Cadbury has come on in leaps and bounds! 🐾 He’s made a new bestie in Thor, and Vanessa honestly thought none of this would be possible. We still have more work to do, so he’ll be joining my group classes to help build his impulse control and confidence.

03/06/2026

Getting Your First Puppy 🐶

Bringing home your first puppy is a big decision — but also incredibly exciting! No one gets more excited about a new pup than I do. I love helping people welcome a new addition to their family. That fluffy cuteness and intoxicating puppy breath is pure joy.
But once the initial excitement settles, there are serious things you need to consider. Poor early decisions can make life much harder for both you and your dog.

Thankfully, selling puppies in pet stores is now illegal in Australia. However, puppy farming is still very much alive. These breeders usually skip essential health testing (hips, elbows, eyes, teeth, genetic testing, etc.). Most breeds have common hereditary issues, so this matters.
Crossbreeding (often with Poodle mixes) has become the norm, marketed as “healthier than purebreds.” This is not always true. A well-bred purebred from a responsible breeder who does all the proper health testing is often far healthier than an poorly bred “designer” cross.
I’ve seen too many people buy cheap “purebred” puppies only to pay thousands later in vet bills — not to mention the emotional stress on the whole family.

A well-bred dog means:

Comprehensive genetic and health testing
Proven trainability and stable temperament in the bloodlines
A breeder who cares about the future of the breed, not just profit

I never bring a new dog or bloodline into my home until I’ve done thorough research — especially with unfamiliar breeds. I learned that lesson the hard way.
I personally recommend purebred dogs from ethical breeders and can usually point people toward good ones.

Important warnings:

Show titles alone are not a reliable indicator of quality. I’ve seen too many show-bred dogs (especially German Shepherds) with severe hip dysplasia, roached backs, and structural issues. Many show lines are bred for appearance over health and function.

Farm-bred “working dogs” often struggle in suburban homes. They have high drive and need significant mental and physical outlets that most pet homes can’t provide.
If the breeder wants to meet at a service station or won’t let you see where the puppies are raised — walk away. This is a major red flag for puppy farm conditions.

Brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds like French Bulldogs, English Bulldogs, Pugs, Boston Terriers, Boxers, Shih Tzus, Pekingese, and Cavalier King Charles Spaniels come with serious health risks due to their shortened skulls. Breathing difficulties, heatstroke risk, and shortened lifespans are common.

Final advice:
Talk to your vet and an experienced dog trainer (ideally ones who aren’t breed-biased) before choosing a breed or s*x of dog. Their professional insight can save you years of frustration and heartbreak.

Do your research. Buy responsibly. Your future dog — and your family — will thank you for it.

02/06/2026

Why do my dogs fight with each other?

I’m not sure why I’ve never done a blog or vlog about this topic before, but here we go.
As this morning, two of my dogs nearly had a full-blown fight. Thankfully it was easy to stop because my dogs are well-trained and I knew exactly what to do. Then I saw yet another Facebook post where someone was asking for advice about the exact same issue.
My problem with most of these groups is that professional trainers rarely chime in. The advice is usually too general, conflicting, and leaves people confused about what to actually do.

Dogs will occasionally fight, but the goal is to dramatically reduce the chances of it happening again. Here’s my practical advice:
If you’re thinking of getting a second dog:

After years working in shelters, the number one reason dogs get returned is aggression between the existing family dog and the new one.
Getting a second dog to “fix” the first dog’s problems usually results in two dogs with behaviour issues instead of one.

While I’m a big fan of dogs having a canine companion, here are some important rules I always follow:

1. Choose opposite s*xes whenever possible.
2. Train the new dog immediately (assuming your existing dog is already trained).
3. Don’t change your daily schedule — dogs adapt to routines very quickly.
4. Feed them completely separately. My dogs eat in their crates. They’ve never had to guard their food, so they don’t show food aggression. I don’t give them separate chew toys either — they get all their chewing needs met through their raw diet and meaty bones.
5. Consider getting a puppy rather than an adult dog. This allows the hierarchy to be established naturally from day one, without having to correct pre-existing behaviours.

Other important tips:
Don’t let strange or untrained dogs visit your home. Dogs are highly territorial, especially protection breeds.
There are two main types of dog fights:
The noisy ones (lots of teeth, snarling, and saliva)
The serious ones (where they grab hold and won’t let go)

Safety note: Never stick your finger in a dog’s a**s or grab their back legs to break up a fight. It can cause the dog to redirect its aggression onto you — I’ve seen it happen.
Try not to yell and scream as in the most cases this will make it worse.

What you should do instead:
Use a well-fitted quality leather collar with a steel buckle (I’m not a fan of plastic clips — they fail too often).
Proper collar fit:
Small to medium dogs: You should be able to slide 2 fingers underneath.
Medium to large dogs: 4 fingers.
Check puppy/giant breed collars daily.

If a fight does break out and they’re locked on:
Step over the dog so it’s between your legs, squeeze your legs together, grab the collar underhanded, slide it high up on the neck and lift. This cuts off their air supply and forces them to release. Do not let go of the collar once they release — hold them securely, allow them to breathe, then separate them into different secure areas.
The more fights dogs have, the more frequent and intense they become.

Final truth:
Sometimes the damage becomes too great. I had clients whose dogs had been fighting for over two years. Both were heavily scarred, the female was regularly attacked, and they’d spent thousands on vet bills and medication. Even after intensive training, the aggression was too severe. They should have rehomed one much earlier, which was my recommendation. Neither of these dogs had been socialised or trained.

Raising dogs is mostly about preventing bad behaviours from starting. Letting them “raise themselves” is exactly how these nightmare situations develop.

Sibling syndrome (getting two puppies from the same litter) often ends badly too.

Reality based training is the only way forward in this scenario.

Hope this helps someone avoid a lot of stress and heartbreak ❤️

31/05/2026

31/05/2026

www.sidneyaarons.com.au

30/05/2026

Just finished this today. A 4 metre See-saw for Dog school on Saturday. It even got Thor's stamp of approval. More equipment coming over the next few weeks. These will also be available for sale. Feel free to contact me.

19/05/2026

Today's blog.

When do I start training my puppy?

This is a very common question I get asked all the time.
I’ve raised many pups over the years. Yes, I’ve made mistakes, but as the saying goes — we learn more from our mistakes than our successes. I’ve also studied under and learned from many excellent trainers along the way.

I remember picking up Thor at just 7 weeks old. I was living in South Australia at the time and drove down to Melbourne, Victoria to get him. I already knew his name, had his puppy pen and crate set up, tidied up all the power cables, built basic agility equipment, and had plenty of leashes, tug toys, and training gear ready. I had power tools so I could introduce him to those sounds and prevent noise sensitivity.
I had also spoken to the local gun range, so I could train him there while they had events on. And I booked him into a local puppy class with a professional dog trainer so I could socialise him to other dogs in a controlled setting.

So when did I start training him?

Pretty much from the moment I met him.
Getting a new puppy is incredibly exciting — even for someone like me who’s done it many times. I know his breed intimately and the bloodlines he came from for generations, which made it even more special because I already knew his potential.

I also knew I had a very small window to socialise him properly while his brain was developing rapidly. I was intentional about what experiences he needed to become the best version of himself.

Many of you reading this have met Thor. Without the early work I put in, he wouldn’t be the dog he is today.

What happens when you don’t start early?
Thor came from a litter of three. His brother went to the owner of the father. Sadly, they left him in the backyard with almost no training or socialization. At around 2 years old, he was sent to me — scared and completely untrained. It took a long time to earn his trust. The only positive thing they did was play tug with him, and that became the foundation I used to rebuild his confidence and the reward good behaviour.
Even after a couple of months of work with me, he remained sensitive to noises and overreactive to everyday things. It was such a waste of a dog with incredible potential. What made it worse is that the owner knew better.

The lesson?
Start teaching your puppy immediately.

I always begin with:

Their name and a rock-solid recall
Leash walking
Building drive for toys (especially tug)
Bite inhibition and taking treats gently
Getting them out in public at least 3 times a week
Socialization to other dogs and animals.

Almost all behaviour problems stem from a lack of early socialisation and training.

Start early. Be consistent. You won’t regret it.

www.sidneyaarons.com.au

18/05/2026

Today's blog.

Beyond Puppy Classes

When a new client reaches out for help with their dog, one of the first questions I ask is: “How old is your dog, and did they attend puppy classes?”

Most people have taken their pup to classes. The reality is, many of those classes focus more on over-vaccination and pushing unnecessary sterilisation than on actual training and development. They’re often run by young instructors who haven’t yet raised a dog through its entire life, and who may lack formal education in canine behaviour and training.

By the time clients contact me, their dog is usually around 12 months old. The behaviour has escalated after puberty — suddenly testing boundaries, much like a defiant teenager.

Think about it: Would you stop educating and socialising your child after preschool? Of course not. So why do we stop training our dogs after a few weeks of puppy classes?

Dogs are naturally cunning and opportunistic — it’s in their DNA. If we don’t continue to guide them, they’ll make their own rules. Problem behaviours are almost always the result of neglect. And neglect is a form of abuse.

My boy Thor just turned 8. I’ve had him since he was 7 weeks old. We still walk every day and train most days. He loves our sessions as much as I do. They’re not just fun — they keep his behaviour solid and our bond strong.

Your dog’s education should never stop. 🐾