03/11/2026
🐕 HEEL IS A BEHAVIOUR. SO WHY ARE WE OVERCOMPLICATING IT?
We see so many variations of exercises for teaching dogs to walk nicely beside us. One step, feed. Two steps, feed. Different techniques, different systems.
And while many aren't wrong, are we making something relatively simple unnecessarily complicated?
Heel is a cued behaviour, just like a sit, down or stand. So why not teach it using the same learning principles?
🐾 Here's how I approach it:
✅ Establish the behaviour. Produce the position you're looking for, perhaps initially using a lure.
✅ Build reinforcement history. Create value, clarity and consistency in the behaviour.
✅ Introduce your cue. Use the new cue – old cue method to transfer the behaviour onto your verbal cue.
✅ Consider reinforcement schedules. Build duration and movement, gradually adjusting when you reinforce.
✅ Fade your prompts. We don't want the dog becoming dependent on a lure or hand movement.
✅ Teach a release cue. The dog learns to maintain position until released, without needing constant reminders.
🌿 USE THE ENVIRONMENT!
Food absolutely has its place, but it isn't our only reinforcer. If the dog wants to explore, access to the environment can reinforce maintaining position.
🎯 BUILD AND GENERALISE
Start in low-distraction environments. Introduce controlled distractions you can manage, then gradually progress to real-life distractions.
I train this on and off lead. The cue means exactly the same thing.
🐕 WHY BOTH SIDES?
I teach both sides to vary movement patterns and for practical reasons. Sometimes I want to position myself between Sunny and a distraction.
👀 HEEL DOESN'T MEAN STARE AT ME!
Sunny can look around, take in his environment or look at me if he chooses. My criteria are simply to maintain position until released.
💡 WHAT ABOUT LOOSE LEAD WALKING?
A reliable walking position is a useful skill, but it's only part of the picture.
We also need to consider lead pressure, disengagement from distractions, emotional regulation and general arousal levels.