Force-Free Training with Candice

26/09/2025

It’s Not Your Dog’s Job to Know What You Hoped For

Your dog wasn’t born knowing how to be the dog you imagined when you first brought them home. It’s not their job to figure that out. Their “job” is to do what feels safe and what helps them survive in the world.

If there’s something about your dog’s behaviour you’d like to change or improve, the first step is is understanding. Ask yourself:

What is my dog trying to start?

What is my dog trying to stop?

What does my dog need or want?

Every behaviour has a motivation behind it. Once we understand why our dogs are responding the way they do, we can step in with compassion. That means managing situations to reduce stress, and then helping them learn new ways to get their needs met, ways that work better in our human world.

In the end, it shouldnt be about expecting dogs to stop being dogs. It’s about building a bridge between what they need and what we need and thinking if our expectations are fair or idealistic.

Both sides can feel safe, understood, and connected when we consider the motivations and how we can support not surpress our dogs.

25/09/2025

24/09/2025

Harnesses, muzzles, coats, tags… dogs have their own opinions about what they wear, and their body language tells the story.

This week I’m inviting you to notice what your dog shows you.

✨ Full blog + a “try this” activity here: https://www.calmercanines.co.uk/blog/equipment

24/09/2025

Great post.

There’s an excellent video using mat work as a “portable” base camp, I love it! I will see if I can find it.

Give Your Fearful Dog a Base Camp and Awaken Their Inner Explorer 🤓

Did you know if you lure a nervous dog toward something scary, you set up a brain tug-of-war:

🧠 the CURIOSITY-SEEKING system (dopamine signalling in the striatum flips the prefrontal cortex to a GREEN light) chases the food
vs.
🧠 the FEAR circuit (the amygdala fires and the HPA-axis floods the body with stress hormones like adrenaline and cortisol, flashing a RED light to the prefrontal cortex) yelling “stranger danger!”

That conflict is stressful, hijacks learning, and can even make the scary thing, or even the food feel worse for your dog.

💡Every emotional encounter leads to your dog learning something.

So instead of dragging them out, feed them back into a safe spot.
Sounds crazy?
It isn’t. Here’s why.

Scared dog.
Snug bed under a chair.
Some tasty treats.

💡Keep asking yourself, What is my dog learning now?

If quadrant logic ruled the world, that dog would glue itself to the bed forever because that’s where the food jackpot is happening.

But what actually happens?
They grab a snack, then eventually trot off to investigate the room...
…and every so often they bounce back to the safe space for a quick pit stop to recharge.

That isn’t a reinforcement fail.

It’s the brain doing what it’s wired to do:

🧠 Step 1: Safe space chills the amygdala and dials down the fight-flight sirens.
🧠 Step 2: Parasympathetic system kicks in, hello, low-threat body vibes.
🧠 Step 3: The ancient SEEKING network lights up like a Christmas tree: “The world looks safe so let's go explore!”

And your dog's “base camp” doesn’t have to be a bed.
Sometimes you are the base camp: your lap in puppy class, a knee to tuck under, a calm presence to bounce back to for a quick emotional top-up before venturing out again.

The treats just prime the system.
That powerful feeling of safety whether it’s a cosy den or your steady arm flips the switch from “hide” to “let’s do this, I'm ready to adventure.”

The real engine of exploration is a 200 million year old bit of mammal brain saying:
“You’ve got a base camp. Time to go see what’s out there.”

AND REMEMBER: Always Keep asking yourself, “What is my dog learning now?”

Jane Ardern BSc Hons Dip CABT KCAI (WG)

22/09/2025

When we say “positive is not permissive”, this is an excellent example of what we mean. Rules and boundaries exist! We simply train them kindly and set up for success, and do not enforce them with pain, fear, force, intimidation, or coercion.

Let’s talk about Rule Structures and Contingencies, what they are, and why they are so critical in raising polite, functional dogs, and why dog training is about SO MUCH more than just teaching your dog how to sit, down and stay.

So what are they?

Rule Structures are just what they sound like. Structured rules that we consistently stick to and ask our dogs to follow.

Contingencies are “if/then” situations – as in: “if you do X, then I will do Y” (think kids, “if you eat your broccoli, you can have ice cream for dessert”

WHY are rule structures and contingencies important?

Because they provide clarity for our dogs, who are constantly trying to figure out how to function in a human world full of random rules they don’t understand, living with a species that doesn’t share their language. Dogs like when they understand how things work, what is expected of them, and how to get the things they want (or what I like to call, the “pathway to reinforcement”). When our dogs DON’T understand the “rules” or how things work, we get undesirable behavior, and frustration from both species.

When they do understand, we start to see predictable behavior, dogs making good choices without needing to be micro-managed, and a polite canine member of society. (As a side note, and this is an important one, these Rule Structures and Contingencies, have NOTHING to do with “being the Alpha” or “dominance” or any of that rubbish.)

Even a basic understanding of these concepts, and some very clear, basic rules for our dogs can go a LONG way to improving all kinds of behavior, and make our lives with our dogs even more enjoyable (for both parties)!

What are some examples of different rule structures and contingencies that I use with my own dogs which help them to understand and thrive in a human world, understand the rules and make good choices? Let's take a look….


💗 Rule Structures & Contingencies 💗

🐾“On leash, On by” – this means that when we are on a leash, we NEVER greet strangers or random dogs we don’t know. Meeting people and dogs occurs in a different structured way, with a clear pattern of how to say hi, and a cue that gives them permission. This rule structure is particularly helpful as when we are consistent about it, we get a dog who doesn’t pull or fuss on the leash to try and go say hi to random dogs they see on their walks, or try to jump up on strangers or greet them in the world. We get better focus, less distractibility, and many more benefits.

🐾 “When on leash, we walk, not play” – this rule means exactly what it says. If we are on our leashes, even if we are around a friend, we don’t play or wrestle. We walk, settle or train, but play occurs OFF-LEASH only. This rule structure allows my dog to be able to navigate relationship easier, even if he is with a buddy he really loves, if we are all leashed he knows its time to walk, not play. No tangling leashes, no constantly leaping and trying to incite play, just peaceful parallel activities.

🐾“We display calm, controlled behavior to earn access to playing with friends, or greeting people.” When its time to get a chance to romp with our dog friends, or say hi to a human, first the dog has to show that they can stay calm and offer a calm behavior, such as sitting or lying down, before the leash gets removed to play, or permission is given to greet. This rule creates a dog who doesn’t lunge and leap about on the leash when excited to go play with a friend, or say hi to a human we are greeting.

🐾“If we want access to a resource, we say please by offering a sit” – our dogs want LOTS of things from us during the day, their harness or leash to be put on or taken off, doors to be opened or closed, chews or lick mats to be given, pets or attention. This rule structure means when you want something like that, offer a polite sit (or a down) without being asked to, and you will be given the attention, interaction or thing that you want. This helps my dog know how to get what he wants, while I also get the behavior I WANT.

🐾 When you choose to look at me (“check-in”) on the leash or long line, you will get a treat, and praise. This contingency builds better leash engagement and connection when moving around the world together.

🐾 When you pull on the leash, I will stop moving and not let you move forward. When you are on a loose leash, we can move forward. This contingency builds loose leash walking skills and improves leash manners over all.

🐾 When you choose me over a distraction (such as a dog or a person) something REALLY good will happen, such as treats, or a game of tug. This contingency builds focus around distractions!

🐾When you bite me, I won’t play with you, I will withdraw my attention. This helps create polite behavior overall.

These simple concepts are worked into my every day interactions with my dogs, so constant learning is occurring. The better we are at creating these types of predictable things, the better our dogs are at behaving!

For those who really like understanding the "nuts and bolts" of things:

🐾You might notice that these two things overlap a lot. Many rule structures are contingency based, and the two concepts work together. Some subtle differences between the two? If you are using a "Rule Structure" you are ALWAYS sticking to the same rule, without exception to help provide clarity. The dog may or may not receive some kind of reinforcement or reward with a rule structure (although often they do of course), it's just the rule, and it exists and doesn't change.

🐾 Contingencies are a little more flexible, its less of a "big deal" if you forget sometimes, because its not a hard and fast rule. And with a contingency, there is always some kind of consequence (generally positive, but not always) for the dog. That is the "then" part of the "if/then" statement. For example: "IF you check in with me, THEN I will give you a treat" or for a negative example "IF you bite me, THEN I will stop playing with you"

Really though, don’t worry about trying to parse out the two. The bigger point is understanding how these types of structured rules and utilizing contingencies help our dogs live their best lives, and make OUR lives easier too.

What are some rule structures or contingencies that you find helpful in communicating with YOUR dog?

22/09/2025

Good info here.

For many cases, the time it takes to condition a head halter could be used to teach foundational skills that render it unnecessary, but in some cases when there’s an element of safety (such as a significant size or strength disparity), it may be worth the time to condition its use. Beyond helping the dog learn to be comfortable wearing it, the owner also needs to work on handling skills and there are a few extra caveats (don’t use with a long line, no physical corrections, etc) to utilize it safely and appropriately.

You can still have a goal of moving to a Y-shaped body harness, but the head halter can provide safety in the interim or as a backup.

“𝙄 𝙣𝙚𝙚𝙙 𝙩𝙤 𝙪𝙨𝙚 𝙖 𝙝𝙚𝙖𝙙𝙘𝙤𝙡𝙡𝙖𝙧 𝙛𝙤𝙧 𝙢𝙮 𝙙𝙤𝙜 𝙖𝙣𝙙 𝙄’𝙫𝙚 𝙗𝙚𝙚𝙣 𝙩𝙪𝙧𝙣𝙚𝙙 𝙙𝙤𝙬𝙣 𝙗𝙮 𝙖𝙣𝙤𝙩𝙝𝙚𝙧 𝙩𝙧𝙖𝙞𝙣𝙚𝙧 𝙗𝙚𝙘𝙖𝙪𝙨𝙚 𝙤𝙛 𝙩𝙝𝙖𝙩. 𝙒𝙞𝙡𝙡 𝙮𝙤𝙪 𝙬𝙤𝙧𝙠 𝙬𝙞𝙩𝙝 𝙢𝙚?”

That’s the question I was asked last week. And my answer was “Yes”. Here’s why….

My core ethics are clear –

• avoid pain, fear & intimidation in training
• avoid the deliberate use of aversives as much as possible
• help both ends of the lead succeed with kindness and compassion

Which means that, as a rule, I don’t use head collars because there are almost always other, less aversive, options available to us.

So why will I use a head collar in this case? Isn’t that hypocritical?

In this case the owner is older and the dog is young, strong and easily over stimulated. An older person being pulled over by a strong dog is a foreseeable risk with potentially serious consequences and not something that can be dismissed as unimportant or irrelevant. I have two clients – one human and one canine – and I owe a duty of care to both. Intransigently sticking to my ethical ‘guns’ might be seen as ‘right’ but it has the real potential to cause harm for them both.

Instead, I can choose the ‘least worst’ option and use a management tool which keeps the owner feeling safe and confident. I can protect the welfare of both dog & human and create a safe place for ethical learning to happen which will, ultimately, remove the need for the head collar. The tool doesn’t teach; it facilitates teaching.

Ethical rigidity is easy but it ignores the complexities of real world situations. It lacks compassion, takes no account of context or nuance and runs the risk of leading to potentially harmful outcomes….the very thing we are trying to avoid.

Ethical 𝘳𝘪𝘨𝘰𝘶𝘳 isn’t the same as ethical 𝘳𝘪𝘨𝘪𝘥𝘪𝘵𝘺. True rigour means holding firm to your guiding principles while being able to adapt thoughtfully to context. If “avoiding harm” is my guiding principle, then I must be open to the notion that some harms are greater than others and adapt accordingly.

When we are inflexible, when we take no account of context, when we prioritise rigidity over pragmatism we risk slipping into dogmatism. And that can leave clients feeling unsupported, dogs unwalked and opportunities for positive learning missed.

Ethical intransigence can look pure & principled, but it’s not always helpful or compassionate.

“𝘽𝙪𝙩 𝙘𝙤𝙪𝙡𝙙𝙣’𝙩 𝙩𝙝𝙚 𝙨𝙖𝙢𝙚 𝙖𝙧𝙜𝙪𝙢𝙚𝙣𝙩𝙨 𝙗𝙚 𝙪𝙨𝙚𝙙 𝙩𝙤 𝙟𝙪𝙨𝙩𝙞𝙛𝙮 𝙩𝙤𝙤𝙡𝙨 𝙡𝙞𝙠𝙚 𝙨𝙝𝙤𝙘𝙠 𝙘𝙤𝙡𝙡𝙖𝙧𝙨 & 𝙥𝙧𝙤𝙣𝙜 𝙘𝙤𝙡𝙡𝙖𝙧𝙨? 𝙄𝙨𝙣’𝙩 𝙩𝙝𝙞𝙨 𝙨𝙚𝙡𝙛 𝙟𝙪𝙨𝙩𝙞𝙛𝙮𝙞𝙣𝙜 𝙝𝙖𝙞𝙧 𝙨𝙥𝙡𝙞𝙩𝙩𝙞𝙣𝙜?”

It’s true that someone could use the same reasoning - “I need to keep the handler safe” or “I need control” - to justify harsher tools. But just because we accept X under certain conditions it doesn’t follow that it’s a slippery slope which means we must also accept Y under others. Sound ethical reasoning involves both principles 𝘢𝘯𝘥 context. Pragmatic, nuanced decision making doesn’t open the floodgates to more extreme or indiscriminate positions.

I know some people feel head collars should never be used, and I hesitated to post this because social media isn’t always kind to nuance. But when we make owners feel judged and refuse them practical solutions, we risk pushing them toward trainers with very different ethics.

Better a head collar with empathy than a harsher tool through desperation.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

As an aside here are 4 questions I find helpful to ask myself when reaching these decisions –

1. How does this tool work? Does this tool work by adding pain, discomfort, fear, or intimidation? Or does it simply limit the dog’s options/movement without causing discomfort?
2. How does the dog experience it? Will the dog feel safe, comfortable, and be able to relax while using it?
3. Whose welfare is protected? Human? Dog? Both? Is one party protected at the expense of the other? If there’s a trade off is it as equitable as possible?
4. Is this the least aversive option available in this context?

21/09/2025

Was it bad info?
"They said this dog was cat and dog friendly!"
➡️They may be good around dogs and cats.
That doesn't mean a newly adopted dog needs to or should meet your dog or cat right away.
They've been through a lot and it would be a rare dog indeed that has been through an adoption/rescue situation and has absolutely no stress surging through them.

➡️Some may be in "survival" mode.
This can mean they will bond very heavily to someone that is now providing resources. Resources can cause some very big problems in the animal world.

➡️Territorial issues.
Your new animals may really not want this "intruder" here either.
They can make those feelings very clear and that can cause more stress for everyone.

➡️You've rushed into it.
Everyone's excited.
It's natural to want everyone to get along, but that doesn't mean they should meet just yet.
If you've rushed this, you'll now know why taking it slow is a very good idea.

So was it bad information you were given?
Not deliberately.
We don't live in a world where we can know everything about a dog's past life.
Yes, they may have been tested with dogs and cats.
They may have passed that test beautifully, but again there are a hundred reasons why they were ok in that environment and may be struggling in your home now.

Rescues are doing it tough.
The strain on everyone is evident, there are just too many dogs needing homes and not enough room at the "inn".
Rehoming demand is gaining momentum and that momentum is getting faster and faster.

It’s difficult for them to keep up and for many, it’s becoming impossible.

20/09/2025

20/09/2025

We throw the word “reactivity” around way too easily.
Bark at a dog? Reactivity.
Lunge at a jogger? Reactivity.
Spin on the lead? Reactivity.
But here’s the uncomfortable truth — most of the time, what we’re calling “reactivity” is just… a dog being a dog.

Take Aslan, the Australian Shepherd currently staying with me. On paper, he’s a conformation-bred Aussie — a show dog, bred for looks. But Aslan is a walking contradiction. He’s aloof with strangers, fiercely loyal to his people, has chase drive for days, is highly food motivated, and shows a level of protectiveness that is classic Aussie. He’s not just a pretty face — he’s got the heart and soul of a working dog.

And here’s where it gets interesting: the very traits that make him who he is are also what people would label “reactivity.” He’s hyper-aware of his personal space, and if someone barges in uninvited, he lets them know. He’s alert, he’s responsive, and he takes his role seriously. To the untrained eye, he might look like a “problem dog.” To me? He’s exactly what he was bred to be.

It’s also worth saying that Aslan’s owners have gone above and beyond to understand this dog. They’ve worked tirelessly to meet his needs, to provide training, outlets, and structure. They’ve even gone to great lengths to investigate underlying health issues — things that could have been adding fuel to the fire of his reactivity. This isn’t a case of a neglected or misunderstood dog. This is a dog whose humans are doing the work — and he’s still a dog with big feelings, big instincts, and big needs.

The reality is, we’ve deliberately selected dogs over generations to show us very different traits. Anyone who has owned both a working-bred dog and a conformation- or pet-bred dog will tell you they think, behave, and operate differently. And sometimes, the lines blur — you get a show-bred dog who carries all the intensity and drive of a working-bred one, or a working-bred dog who has a softer, more easygoing temperament you might expect in a show line. These “outliers” can be challenging for owners because they don’t fit the expectations that usually come with their type — but that’s exactly why understanding the individual dog in front of you matters more than anything.

We have to stop acting like barking, lunging, and growling are moral failings or behavioural disorders. Generations of breeding have shaped dogs into what they are today. And we — humans — did that. We decided what traits mattered: appearance for the show ring, drive for the field, guarding instinct for our property or our homes. Then we get mad when those traits show up in a way that’s inconvenient for us.

A high-drive, working-bred dog stuck in a city flat, under-exercised and under-stimulated, is going to “react.” A show-bred dog pushed into endless social situations they find overwhelming is going to “react.” This isn’t broken behaviour — it’s predictable behaviour.

Instead of slapping the label “reactive” on every dog that expresses a big emotion, we need to ask ourselves:
🔍 What did we breed this dog for?
🔍 Are we giving them a job or outlet for their drives?
🔍 How are we contributing to this situation?

Aslan isn’t a teddy bear. He’s a dog with purpose, and when you meet him where he’s at, he shines. The problem isn’t him — it’s the expectation that he should ignore his genetics, suppress his instincts, and behave like a robot.

“Reactivity” isn’t a disease to cure. It’s feedback. It’s communication. It’s information about the dog in front of you. And it’s time we stopped blaming dogs for doing exactly what we bred them to do.

19/09/2025

Mimicry continues to amaze me. Well done, Beanie!!

The first comment in the post has more info :)

19/09/2025

If you are a parent with dogs, you know how hard it is to get anything done.
Someone always needs your attention. And if the dog and child are in the same room together, you have to be 100% paying attention.

It can make daily tasks feel impossible...UNLESS you have some management systems in place.

In this series of posts, I'll be sharing YOUR photos. There is no better inspiration than seeing how other parents are coping.

I hope this offers you some peace of mind and relief.

xo
Michelle

19/09/2025

If your dog is struggling with anxiety or reactivity, the best place to start your training is with something we call a “cortisol holiday”.
Whenever a dog is stressed, their body releases stress hormones like cortisol. These hormones are designed to do things like increase the heart rate and blood pressure, and ensure the body’s cells are fueled with energy. This means that a stressed dog is ready for action; the famous fight or flight.

Acute stress is useful for preparing an animal to deal with a threatening situation, but chronic stress can be very detrimental. If a dog is entering a stressed state frequently, the stress hormones will begin to build to higher and higher levels. Many reactive dogs have become stuck in a pattern of an ever increasing build up of stress hormones, without the chance to return to normal in between. While the dog is bubbling over with so much stress, it’s very difficult to make progress with reducing their reactivity or anxiety.

To kick-start your training, plan out a period of at least two weeks where you systematically reduce or eliminate stressful events in your dog’s life. Start by making a list of your dog’s triggers; situations that cause them to go into fight and flight mode. Work your way through the list and brainstorm ways to avoid each trigger, or at least lessen their impact on your dog. For example, if one of your dog’s triggers is the sight of another dog, you could change the time of day or location of your walks to avoid encountering any other dogs, or even avoid walks altogether during the cortisol holiday and replace them with mental and physical enrichment at home. If your dog is triggered by the sight of people walking past your house, you could attach some frosted glass window film to your front facing windows. If your dog is reactive to noises from your neighbours you can play some white noise or a radio to muffle the triggering sounds. It won’t necessarily be possible to eliminate every trigger, but the more you can avoid the greater the benefit to the dog.

Once your dog has completed their cortisol holiday, they’ll be in a much better place to start working on learning to relax around their triggers.

If your dog struggles with anxiety or reactivity a professional behaviour consultant can assist you to develop a training plan to help your dog learn to be confident and relaxed around their triggers. The goal when working with these dogs should always be to address the emotion underlying the behaviour, rather than just trying to stop the symptoms.
____
Check out Beacon Dog Training’s upcoming seminar “Stress & Anxiety In Dogs: Helping Complicated Canines” running on Wednesday 1st September at 6:00pm at our Carrara, QLD facility: https://www.facebook.com/events/165859538814964