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Mary's Little Lambs, Philadelphia, PA (2026)

08/20/2018

Tip of the Week:

6 Dog Grooming Secrets Your Groomer Wishes You Knew
By Victoria Schade

If you prefer to leave the dirty work of nail trims and a**l gland expressing to someone else, you probably assume that your dog grooming responsibilities end when you drop your dog off with the groomer. Let the groomer worry about mats in the fur and unruly behavior in the tub, because that’s their job, right?

Most groomers beg to differ.

Grooming dogs is a big job no matter the size of the pup on the table. From bathing, drying, brushing and detangling, to cleaning up the ears, eyes and hygiene areas, to finally, hand-scissoring the coat to perfection, getting your dog beautified takes work.

For many dogs who are uncomfortable with body manipulation, the dog grooming experience can be a stressful one. A nervous or fearful dog who doesn’t like to be touched makes the job that much more challenging for your groomer—and that much more unpleasant for your dog.

The following dog groomer tips will help your pup feel comfortable with the grooming process and will help him get the most out of his time in the salon. With a little patience and training, grooming day will be the equivalent of a trip to the spa for your dog, plus your groomer will thank you for your cooperative pooch!

Start Grooming Right Away

No matter the breed, every dog will require some sort of grooming in their life, even if it’s just a bath when he rolls in something gross or cutting a dog’s nails. You can make the process stress-free if you begin acclimating your dog to grooming early in life.

Get your puppy used to having his paws, ears and tail manipulated by pairing the process with dog treats. Let him check out the tub and dog shampoo (and give him a few treats for doing so) before you begin running the water for a bath.

You can even bring your pup to the groomer for a few low-pressure “getting to know you” sessions before it’s time for the real thing. Groomer Kathleen Sepulveda, director of education at Dirty Dogs University and board member of the Creative Grooming Association, says, “Many pet owners wait too long to bring their pet to the groomer; this can cause your pet to become very scared, not enjoying their day of beauty.”

Get Your Dog Used to Extra Bathing Steps

Bath time with your dog can be optimized with the addition of two products: a simple scrub brush, like the ConairPRO Pet-It boar bristle brush, and conditioner, like the Isle of Dogs silky coating conditioner for dogs.

Sepulveda explains, “Using a scrub brush while bathing will help rid the coat of stuck-on dirt, exfoliate the skin for better health, and help remove dead coat to prevent mats from forming. I always say scrub them like a potato!”

She also suggests conditioner, even for breeds with a short coat. “The shampoo is made to remove dirt and excess oils leaving the skin and coat clean, yet porous,” says Sepulveda. “The conditioner closes up the pores and hair shaft while helping to protect the coat from breakage and tangles.”

Brush Between Cuts

Both Sepulveda and groomer Caitlin Kucsan of Pugs and Kisses Petcare in Bucks County, Pennsylvania agree that ongoing maintenance—daily, if possible—will help your dog feel more comfortable during a dog grooming session.

Kucsan explains that dogs who aren’t brushed regularly are more likely to have challenging mats and tangles, which might result in the groomer needing to shave down the coat instead of giving you the teddy bear cut you were hoping for.

“If you spend a few minutes each day brushing your dog in between grooms, the more likely it will be that your groomer is able to leave some length on your pup,” says Kucsan.

Plus, working through tangled fur is unpleasant for the dog and can increase the length of time your dog spends on the table. Kucsan suggests that pet parents should first brush with a slicker brush, like the Andis premium large, firm pet slicker brush, then move on to a fine-tooth comb, like the Andis steel pet comb.

Take a Pre-Groomer Potty Break

“While your pet might already be a little anxious to be heading to the salon, think about how much worse they must feel if they also have to go to the bathroom,” Kucsan says.

Most busy salons are booked solid with back-to-back appointments throughout the day, which means it’s probably not possible for your groomer to take your dog for a potty break. “Your pet should be relieved prior to arriving at the salon,” Kucsan adds.

Don't Hang Around

“Unless a groomer specifically asks you to stay and help handle your pet, most salons will not and do not allow an owner to stay and help or watch during a groom,” Kucsan says.

Even though you might think that your presence will calm your dog during a groom, being in the room might make your dog more anxious. Your dog might move around on the table trying to reach you, which makes the process more dangerous for him and your groomer, especially when sharp scissors are involved.

“If you trust your groomer, know that although your pet may be anxious upon arrival, they will be much calmer without you there. It also helps them create a bond with their groomer without them needing to look to you for comfort,” Kucsan says.

Keep It Light

“Many pet owners enter the grooming salon saying how much their dog hates grooming, and apologizing about having to bring them in. This sets up the dog to be fearful and stressed—not a good way to start a day of beauty,” Sepulveda says.

Rather than acting like you’re dropping your dog off for hours of torture, keep the mood upbeat when you’re heading for the salon. If you’ve followed the other secrets to making dog grooming sessions stress-free, spending time with your groomer should be a pleasant experience for your dog.

“Setting your pet up to be relaxed and excited for grooming will make the entire grooming process less stressful for pet and owner,” Sepulveda says.

08/13/2018

Tip of the Week:

Is your dog lying to other dogs about its size?
By Elizabeth Preston

Don’t mess with me! That’s the signal small dogs seem to be sending when they p*e on things, according to a new study. Researchers have found that the smaller a pooch is, the higher it lifts its leg to mark lamp posts, trees, and other objects—and these exaggerated urine streams may fool other dogs into thinking a large canine is in the area.

“This paper is important because it looks at a neglected aspect of scent marking,” Lynda Sharpe, an ecologist at Australian National University in Canberra, wrote in an email. Sharpe, who was not involved with the work, has studied dwarf mongooses that leave scent marks from their a**l glands by doing handstands; she found that small males leave deceptively high marks. It makes sense that dogs would do the same thing, she says. “It would be surprising if numerous species weren’t exploiting the height of scent marks.”

Conducting the study wasn’t easy. Betty McGuire, a behavioral ecologist at Cornell University, and her colleagues studied 45 dogs from two shelters in New York. The animals, mostly mixed breeds, were all adult males, because they’re more likely to lift their legs when they p*e. The researchers walked them outdoors in areas that included trees, benches, a fire hydrant, and other tempting targets, while recording from behind with an iPhone. Precisely measuring p*e spots before they dried—without disrupting the dogs midstream—was a challenge. And whereas some dogs liked to mark trees and poles, others preferred tall grass, where their urine was much harder to find. Some dogs, after sniffing a spot and lifting a leg, missed their targets entirely.

“We spent an inordinate amount of time out there,” McGuire says.

When a dog made a mark, the researchers measured its height, and then measured the angle of the dog’s raised leg from the video. In all, the team a**lyzed several hundred leg lifts over about 2 years. The dogs’ average urination angles, which ranged from about 85° to 147°, got more extreme as the animals got smaller, the team reports in the Journal of Zoology.

Smaller dogs may hoist their legs higher in an attempt to lie about their body size. By exaggerating their own bulk, McGuire says, they could be sending a message to the other dogs: “Stay away from me!” The small dogs may hope to avoid face-to-face interactions with other animals likely to outmatch them in a fight.

Still, the dogs may not be lying at all, but instead “overmarking,” says James Serpell, an ethologist at the University of Pennsylvania School of Veterinary Medicine. Dogs often like to cover up other dogs’ p*e with their own, he says. Small dogs may lift their legs higher simply because they’re trying to reach a larger dog’s urine spots.

Alternately, Serpell says, the explanation might be as simple as anatomy. Maybe all male dogs lift their legs as high as possible to p*e, but small dogs are more limber.

08/06/2018

Tip of the Week:

Can a Cat Get a Sunburn?

You’ve been slathering on sunscreen all summer — but does your kitty need to protect herself from the sun’s harmful rays, too? Can a cat get a sunburn and, thus, can a cat get skin cancer? Here’s what to know about cats and sun protection.

My first cat, Iris, was a beautiful calico girl who was mostly white except for a large black and orange splotch on her back and a tiny little orange “I” shaped spot on the top of her head. Her nose was as pale as her head fur, and nothing made her happier than sitting on my mother’s back porch soaking up the hot Maine summer sun.

When Iris reached her late teens, I began to notice black, warty-looking splotches on the skin around the edges of her ears. “Could that be skin cancer?” I remember wondering back then. “Can cats even get skin cancer?”

So, can a cat get a sunburn and thus, can a cat get skin cancer? Which cats are most at risk for sunburn and skin cancer? And what can you do to protect your cat from sunburn? Here’s what you need to know about cats and sunburns.

1. What does cat sunburn look like?
I once met a nearly hairless cat wandering the streets of a neighborhood in my home town. At first I thought he was a stray cat with mange because his skin was red, dry and cracked. I met his owner and found out he “just had a sunburn.” Pale noses and ear edges can be easily sunburned, too.

2. White and light-colored cats are most at risk for sunburn.
This is kind of a no-brainer, if you think about it. The paler your complexion, the more careful you have to be careful to avoid overexposure to the sun, and the same is true for your cat. Most light-colored cats have very pale pink or white skin under that fur.

3. Sphynx and Rex cats also need protection.
Sphynx and other hairless breeds such as the Peterbald don’t have the type of hair coat that protects their skin from the sun. Combine that with their heat-seeking nature, and you have a sunbather who could easily get sunburned. Although Cornish Rex and Devon Rex cats have fur, its unique texture and single coat don’t afford much protection from UV rays.
So, how can you protect your cat from sunburn?

1. Apply a cat-safe sunscreen.
Be very careful if you choose to put sunscreen on your cat. Products with octyl salicylate and similar chemicals can be poisonous to your furry friend. There are plenty of dog-safe sunscreens, but very few cat-safe ones, so do your research and choose carefully.

2. Provide shade.
If your cat goes outside, whether to bask on your enclosed patio, accompany you on a leash for a walk or safely explore your yard, make sure there are plenty of places where your cat can be completely shielded from the sun.

3. Use UV protection window film.
This product is inexpensive and very easy to apply, and it comes in tinted and clear varieties. Not only will it allow your cat to enjoy a warm sun puddle without the risk of exposure to harmful UV rays, it will increase your home’s energy efficiency and keep the sun from fading your carpets and furniture.

06/04/2018

Tip of the Week:

8 Tips for Year-Round Dog Paw Health

From prevention through treatment, we've got advice for optimal dog paw health.

Dr. Marty Becker

Chances are good your dog will suffer an injury to one of his paws in his lifetime. After all, he walks all over them. Our goal is to prevent dog paw problems when possible, detect potential problems early, and know when we can treat at home or when it’s necessary to beat feet (excuse the pun) to the vet.

I’ve traveled to more than 80 countries, most recently a six-week trip to South America. While at Machu Picchu and in the Galapagos Islands, I was amazed to see locals walking barefoot along thorny paths, on sharp rocks and through burning hot sand. I’m a tender foot and worry about stepping on a single pebble or hot sand.

But what about pets? Contrary to what some might think, dogs’ foot pads aren’t constructed of the same thing bulletproof vests are made of. Despite this, many of us seem to think nothing of our dogs walking over paths filled with stickers and burrs, across sunbaked pavement, or across jagged sheets of ice. While Mother Nature designed dog paws to “take a licking and keep on ticking,” they can still get cuts, scrapes, burns, and frostbite.

1. Do a weekly dog paw check

When a dog starts to limp, most people will take a good look at the feet to see what’s wrong. But get in the habit of looking at each foot weekly.

Get down on the floor, or do it with your dog in your lap. Look at the top and the bottom of the foot, between the toes, the foot pads, between the foot pads and check the nails. Look for redness, swelling, tenderness, bleeding or signs of irritation. Press gently on the pads, around the toes, and on the nail bed. If your dog winces, whimpers, or pulls away like it’s causing discomfort, look closer. The three things I’d be most suspicious of are foreign bodies (slivers, w**d seeds, gum), cuts, or signs that the dog has been licking her paws (wet and red underneath the feet or brown on top from saliva staining.

2. Watch out for burrs

If your pets are ever in the w**ds, it’s easy for them to pick up burrs or awns (think cheatgrass or foxtails) between their toes. Those plant invaders can quickly burrow their way inside the foot and literally end up all over the body. I recommend daily checks if your dog is around these heinous hitchhikers. If it’s a burr, you may need to trim a little hair or apply mineral oil to get it out. For awns, I use a pair of needle nose pliers.

3. Do regular dog paw trims

It’s common for long-haired dogs to develop mats between the foot pads, which can chafe and cause irritation. In the summer, we trim the hair between all of our dogs’ feet to prevent this and make it easier to see foreign bodies like grass awns.

4. Keep dog paws dry

Your dog’s paws can become irritated from too much moisture. After he comes in from a swim or a romp in the wet grass, dry off his feet with a towel. Sometimes the excess moisture comes from incessant licking if he has a bacterial or fungal infection that itches (think of how athlete’s foot drives us crazy!). I’m a big fan of weekly baths for pets, and I encourage you to put a couple of inches of water in the bottom of the sink or tub, and add some Epsom salt in the water.

5. Treat painful dog paw cracks

Dog paws also get too dry. For years I’ve recommended Musher’s Secret, a wax that moisturizes, lubricates (to prevent snow or ice balls from forming), and forms a breathable bond with paws. It doesn’t take long to soak in; I put it on about once a month year-round. But don’t use it too often: If pads are too soft, they’ll be more prone to injury.

6. Ban the burn

I can’t tell you how many cases of burned dog paws I’ve seen from pet owners who walked their dog on hot asphalt or concrete. My rule of thumb: If the surface is too hot for the palm of your hand, it’s too hot for your dog to walk on.

7. Salt on dog paws also spells out problems

In the winter, salt or other deicers can really wreak havoc on your canine’s four-wheel drive, as they irritate and dry the feet. After our dogs have been out for a walk where they might have tromped across and in these offending substances, we simply dip their feet in a large plastic drinking glass and towel dry.

8. Get rid of dog paw gunk on the regular

Imagine all the icky-sticky stuff that’s on the ground and gets walked on. Chewing gum, tree sap, motor oil, antifreeze, tar — the list goes on. To clean these off of your dog’s tootsies, use a little Dawn dishwasher detergent; others recommend olive oil. If the gunk won’t loosen, you may have to trim it out or head to the vet to handle. Trust me, you don’t want to accidentally cut the foot pad with scissors or a pair of trimmers. When cut, the same blood supply that warms pet’s feet in the winter and cools them in the summer spurts like a Texas oil well. This might seem like a lot of work, but I promise: An ounce of paw-vention is worth a pound of cure!

05/28/2018

Tip of the Week:

11 Foods You Should Never Feed Your Pet

Some human food can be dangerous to your pets. Educate yourself on foods to avoid so your pet stays healthy and happy.

When you're having a tasty snack and your pet looks up at you with those eyes, it can be tempting to toss them a bite. We love our pets and we like to show them how much we love them by giving them special treats, but not all foods are safe. Some human foods are dangerous for our pets, resulting in stomach upset, seizures, even death. Here's a list of common human foods that you should never feed your pet

Grapes and raisins
Grapes and raisins might be healthy for humans but can make dogs and cats very sick. Pets can develop severe kidney damage after eating grapes or raisins, which can lead to kidney failure and even death. Not every dog or cat will experience kidney problems, but since there's no way of knowing if your pet will get sick, it's best to avoid grapes and raisins altogether.

Artificial sweeteners
Xylitol, a popular artificial sweetener commonly found in sugar-free candy and gum, is extremely dangerous for dogs and cats, causing a spike in insulin and a severe drop in blood glucose. If not treated immediately, pets will develop hypoglycemic seizures and go into shock. Symptoms begin suddenly and will result in death without medical intervention.

Garlic
Even though you may find natural health sources that claim garlic, a member of the allium family, is safe for pets or that the benefits outweigh the risks, ingestion of garlic can be deadly to dogs and cats. It results in the formation of particles called Heinz bodies on red blood cells, causing the liver to see these otherwise normal red blood cells as damaged then filter them out of circulation. This results in low red blood cell count—anemia—which can cause lethargy, difficulty breathing, and death.

Avocados
While most likely safe for dogs and cats, avocados are toxic to birds and large animals like cows. The compound persin causes difficulty breathing, swelling, anorexia in pet birds, and mastitis and digestive problems in goats, sheep, cattle, and horses.

Chocolate
A compound in chocolate called theobromine is toxic to dogs and cats. It can cause hyperactivity, cardiac arrhythmia, seizures, even death. Theobromine is more plentiful in darker chocolate but even milk and white chocolate are dangerous.

Coffee, tea, soda
Dogs and cats are more sensitive to caffeine than we are, so even small amounts can make them excitable and jittery. Large doses of caffeine can cause heart arrhythmia, seizures, vomiting, diarrhea, and even coma. Drinks, snacks, and medicine containing caffeine should be kept away from pets.

High-fat foods
While delicious, fatty foods like bacon and ham are dangerous for dogs and cats who aren't accustomed to eating high-fat foods. Ingestion can cause vomiting and diarrhea and also pancreatitis, an extremely painful digestive condition that requires hospitalization and intensive treatment.

Bones
Though it may seem counterintuitive, cooked bones are dangerous treats for pets. They splinter easily and can puncture delicate gastrointestinal tissue, leading to a life-threatening condition called peritonitis that occurs when intestinal contents leak into the abdominal cavity. The only treatment is surgery.

Fruit with pits
Peaches, plums, nectarines, and other pitted fruits are dangerous on two fronts. Not only are the pits the perfect size to become lodged in the intestines, causing an obstruction, but pits also contain the poison cyanide.

Rhubarb
When your pets—especially dogs—head for the rhubarb plant, watch out: The leaves can cause a drop in blood calcium levels. Your pet will salivate, have tremors, lose her appetite, be lethargic, and could end up with kidney failure.

Macadamia nuts
This is a problem for dogs: Macadamia nut toxicity results in vomiting, weakness, tremors, fever, and lethargy. Veterinarians aren't exactly sure what the mechanism of the toxicity is, but it isn't fatal.

05/21/2018

Tip of the Week:

Rainy Day Dangers for Dogs

By John Gilpatrick

Rain is the ultimate disrupter. Whether you’re simply stuck in your office without an umbrella, getting poured on after enjoying a day at the park with your kids, or—worst of all—waiting to get on a plane at an overcrowded airport, a storm can destroy the best laid plans.

A dog’s routine is much simpler than that of his owner, but rain doesn’t spare his plans either. The evening walk he looks forward to? Postponed. Simply going outside to run around and relieve himself? Well, it’s still necessary, but it’ll be quicker and less pleasant than it usually is.

“In general, it’s best to stick to short bathroom breaks outside during heavy rain and save the outdoor play time for better weather,” says Dr. Sarah Tauber, a veterinarian at DoveLewis Veterinary Emergency & Specialty Hospital in Portland, Oregon.

Unfortunately, rain can present some real health and safety problems for dogs. Here are four dangers to look out for:

Low Visibility

When it’s really coming down, drivers who can’t see well are a major safety risk for pups.

“Dogs may get spooked by the rain or by thunder and lightning, and this might make them run out into the street, which isn’t safe for the pet or the owner,” says Dr. Michelle Danna, practice manager and medical director for at Boston Street Animal Hospital in Baltimore.

You dog’s safety around cars in low visibility is one of the biggest reasons why rainy walks should be discouraged. If you rain is in the forecast but it’s not pouring yet, simply walk around the block a few times rather than putting in any real distance.

Lightning

Frightening your dog into the street isn’t the only reason to worry about lightning. While it is rare, a lightning strike could harm both you and your dog.

“Anything metal might attract lightning, including an umbrella,” Danna says. “If you hear thunder or see lightning, seek shelter as quickly as possible, avoiding high points and trees along the way as best you can.”

One thing you shouldn’t do, Danna says, is remove your dog’s tags. While they’re metal, the risk of your dog running away while frightened by the storm is too high, so staying inside and taking short potty breaks should be your priority.

Puddles

Some dogs love to splash in others, while others might walk through them unavoidably. In any case, a dog who comes into contact with standing water is potentially introducing himself to a variety of dangerous bacteria.

“Leptospirosis and giardia are two infectious agents that can potentially result when dogs consume diseased water [found in puddles],” Tauber says. “Consider getting your dog vaccinated against leptospirosis if your dog is outdoors often and has a tendency to lap up standing water. Another option is to keep your pet well hydrated by offering him plenty of water before and during your outside playtime. This will discourage him from drinking water from other sources.”

Tauber adds that puddles can also be dangerous if toxins like motor oil or lawn chemicals have spread to puddles during rainfall.

And even if your dog doesn’t drink this dirty water, he still might be exposed if he steps in the water and licks his paws afterwards, Danna says.

“One of the first things you should do when your dog comes in if it’s wet outside is soak his feet in diluted antiseptic, like Scope or Listerine,” she says. “Do this for at least 30 seconds, and then towel dry his paws well.”

Dr. Katie Grzyb, a Brooklyn-based veterinarian, recommends speaking with your veterinarian prior to soaking your pet’s paws in an antiseptic, particularly if he has any history of paw infections or skin allergies.

Danna adds that if you see symptoms including nausea, lethargy, fever, excessive urination in your dog, you should bring him to your veterinarian right away. Leptospirosis is very treatable in its early stages, she says, but it becomes more complex to treat if it’s not diagnosed early.

It should also be noted that leptospirosis is zoonotic, meaning it can spread to humans, Grzyb says. If you’re concerned that your pet is showing signs of leptospirosis, wear gloves or avoid interaction with your dog’s urine until your pet sees a veterinarian.

Pneumonia

“If dogs are exposed to wet, cold weather for too long, their respiratory tract can become inflamed, which may lead to pneumonia,” Tauber says. This is especially true for both older and younger dogs, as well as any whose immune systems may be compromised.

Symptoms of pneumonia in dogs can include cough, lethargy, wheezing or difficulty breathing, and a runny nose, she adds. “This illness can be life-threatening if not treated, so it’s best to see seek medical care immediately.”

To prevent pneumonia, wipe your dog down with a towel or blanket as soon as he comes in from the rain. You may also want to consider putting a waterproof (not water-resistant) doggy raincoat on him before he goes out in the rain. If your dog is too big for one, Danna says you can cut holes in a large black garbage bag and put him into it.

05/07/2018

Tip of the Week:

8 Surprising Facts About Puppy and Kitten Nutrition

By Paula Fitzsimmons

Think you know all there is to know about puppy and kitten nutrition? Are you aware that puppies and kittens are more sensitive to nutritional imbalances than adults, for example? Or that excess calcium intake can cause a puppy to develop orthopedic disease?

Go past Puppy and Kitten Nutrition 101 to learn lesser-known facts about their dietary needs. Then use this knowledge to provide your newest family member with the proper start in life she needs to thrive for years to come.

1. A Balanced Diet Is Even More Important for Growing Animals Than for Adults

All animals, regardless of age, need a balanced diet to thrive, but puppies and kittens are especially sensitive to nutritional imbalances, says Dr. Jonathan Stockman, a board-certified veterinary nutritionist at the James L. Voss Veterinary Teaching Hospital at Colorado State University in Fort Collins. “The requirements and the sensitivities to excess in nutrients are generally highest.”

One example is calcium, an essential dietary mineral that plays a critical role in bone development. In excess, calcium can cause a puppy to develop severe bone changes and orthopedic disease, he says. “Large and giant breed puppies are particularly sensitive to this, whereas adult dogs are able to regulate calcium absorption when the diet is high in calcium.”

2. Puppies Should Not Be Fed Adult Formula Food

Because they are sensitive to nutritional imbalances and their energy needs are greater, puppies should only be fed a growth formula diet, vets say.

Growth places the highest energy and nutrient demands than any other life stage on a dog or cat, apart from lactation, says Dr. Jessica Harris, a board-certified veterinary nutritionist at Carolina Ranch Animal Hospital in Garner, North Carolina. “The energy needs of a puppy are two-fold: 1) support the tissues already developed and 2) provide the energy required to form new tissues.”

Puppies use about 50 percent of their consumed energy for maintenance and 50 percent for new tissue development in the early growth phase, Harris says. “As the puppy gets older, the energy needed to support growth diminishes and proportionately shifts to support maintenance. Energy is provided by protein, fat, and carbohydrates. Thus, growth diets often provide a greater percentage of protein and fat to support growth than do adult maintenance diets.” Growth diets also provide optimal amounts of calcium, phosphorus, copper, and essential fatty acids, “which have an important role in bone formation and maturation, cartilage maturation, hair color, red blood cell development, and trainability.”

3. Unchecked Growth Can Be Harmful to a Dog’s Bones

Feeding a puppy to maintain her ideal body condition versus allowing maximum growth promotes the optimal rate of bone development, says Harris, who is also a clinical nutrition instructor at the Topeka, Kansas-based Mark Morris Institute.

“The adult weight and size of the animal is not impacted by whether the growth rate is rapid or slow, however, the risk of skeletal deformities increases with the rapidity of growth.”

Determining a puppy’s body condition score (BCS) is a reliable way to determine normal growth rate. Body scoring helps you gauge if your dog is maintaining a healthy muscle mass and body fat index. It’s something you can practice at home, using your hands and visual observation.

4. Young Animals Need Multiple Feeding Times to Thrive

Animals rely on reserves for energy in between meals, says Harris. “These energy reservoirs are stored glycogen in the liver or fat depots throughout the body. Ketones produced by the breakdown of lipid or amino acids can also provide energy. As young animals often have limited reserves and are at risk for the development of hypoglycemia (low blood sugar), multiple meals offered throughout the day best averts the onset of lethargy, trembling, weakness, lack of coordination, and seizures.”

Puppies should eat at least three meals per day, and kittens younger than 6 months should be fed more often, “For example, four to six times a day,” says Dr. Donna Raditic, a board-certified veterinary nutritionist with Nutrition and Integrative Medicine Consultants based in Athens, Georgia.

This should be accompanied by close monitoring—with your veterinarian—of body weight, muscle condition score (MCS), and BCS, Raditic adds. She encourages pet parents to use a food gram scale to weigh food and monitor daily caloric intake.

“Just like human weight loss programs will use food gram scales to educate us about portion size and caloric intake, weighing your puppy/kitten’s diet right from the start will help you to be sure you are feeding the correct amount,” she says. “Adjusting intake in grams is much more accurate than going from one-eighth cup to one-fourth cup.”

5. Nutritional Needs Differ by Breed Size

There are a few key differences in the nutrient needs of large breed puppies as compared to small- to medium sized breeds, says Harris. Most of these focus on reducing the risk of developing orthopedic disease.

“Although the development of musculoskeletal disorders is multi-factorial and a complicated disease process, it has been correlated nutritionally with calcium, phosphorus, the calcium-phosphorus ratio, vitamin D, and energy intake,” she explains. “Large breed growth diets contain a little less than 1 percent calcium and more than adequately meet the growing large breed puppies’ calcium requirement. Small- to medium-sized breeds are less sensitive to slightly overfeeding or underfeeding calcium, and as a result, the level of calcium in foods for these puppies have a broader margin of safety.”

6. A Gruel Formula Can Help Ease the Weaning Process

Providing your companion with porridge-like formula during weaning—which starts when an animal is about 3 to 4 weeks old and is marked by the eruption of baby teeth and an interest in solid food—can help ease the process, Harris says.

“It has been largely successful to introduce a gruel made by blending a canned growth food with a canine/feline liquid milk replacer in a 1:1 ratio,” she says. “Alternatively, one part dry commercial food can be ground in a food processor and mixed with three parts of canine/feline liquid milk replacer.”

She says the young animal should always have access to the formula, and that it should be replaced three to four times a day. It will spoil and promote bacterial growth if left out at room temperature for prolonged periods.

It’s during playtime that a young animal typically encounters the gruel, then will progressively consume small amounts. “As the young animal's interest increases, the liquid portion of the mixture can be gradually reduced until they are consuming only the canned or dry commercial growth diet, usually between 6 and 9 weeks of age,” Harris says. “This transition is a delicate balance between the mother, the young, and the owners and requires close monitoring and patience.”

Not all brands of milk replacer are equal, however. “Care should be taken when selecting the milk replacer, as not all brands meet the minimum nutrient requirements for growth per American Association of Feed Control Officials (AAFCO) for all labeled species.”

7. Feeding Methods are Not One-Size-Fits-All

Pet parents have three options for feeding growing puppies and kittens: Free choice, which makes the food available 24/7 (like an all-day buffet); time-limited, where food is out for a set period of time; and amount-limited, where portions are pre-determined.

“Each have their own benefits and drawbacks and what is right for one animal may not be the best option for another,” Harris says. “Therefore, it is strongly recommended that the [owner] have a discussion with their veterinarian about the best feeding option for their growing pet.”

Size and breed are factors that can impact that decision. For example, “free-feeding puppies can be problematic for the large, giant breeds,” says Raditic, who also co-founded the Companion Animal Nutrition & Wellness Institute.

“If rapid growth is induced, this may drive the genetics of these breeds at risk for developmental orthopedic disease (for example, hip or elbow dysplasia),”she says. “For small and medium breeds, it can be problematic increasing body fat—for these breeds are at risk for obesity and to be overweight.”

8. Working with Your Companion’s Natural Behavior Can Provide Additional Health Benefits

Working with an animal’s instincts can promote health and well-being. “Simulating normal feeding behavior will increase activity, reduce boredom, help with weight management and prevent obesity, and strengthen the bond between cat and owner,” says Dr. Amy Learn, a veterinarian at Cary Street Veterinary Hospital in Richmond, Virginia.

Cats are innate hunters, so work to add enrichment to their feeding regimen. “For example, using feeding toys or embracing a cat’s three-dimensional world,” Raditic says.

Dogs evolved as hunters, as well as scavengers. “These activities were a substantial part of their daily time budget and are not currently utilized when we hand them a bowl of food,” Raditic says. You can still honor a dog’s natural behavior, however, by allowing her to work for her food “with puzzle toys or programs like ‘learn to earn,’ which have been shown to provide mental stimulation,” explains Learn.

The more we understand about a young puppy or kitten’s dietary needs, the better care we’re able to provide. Early nutrition deeply impacts puppies and kittens and sets the stage for longevity and quality of life, Raditic says. “Every pet parent needs to understand and own this preventative care for their furry companion.”

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