Trojan Rabbitry

Trojan Rabbitry We have mini rex(ped), Himalayan (ped), English spots (ped), and Mini lops (ped)

Operating as usual


The mini rex that started making a nest yesterday had babies 😊


Had a mini rex litter today and possibly a new Zealand litter i didn't want to disturb the new Zealand.
And we had a mini rex making a nest so we possibly will have 4 litters finally after not having any in awhile 😁


Had a mini lop/new Zealand cross litter today

Photos from Galaxy Animal World's post

Photos from Galaxy Animal World's post


I always encourage spay/neutering.. my pet English Angora Arlo.. is neutered.


Guilty!! πŸ˜‚πŸ‘€πŸ°

We'll be there with Green Valley Rabbitry  we are sharing a spot. Hope to see you all there 😊

We'll be there with Green Valley Rabbitry we are sharing a spot. Hope to see you all there 😊

The Maryland Poultry Swap & Farmers Market is THIS Saturday, April 30th 2022. 200 vendors selling anything farm related, handcrafted, homemade, homegrown, antique and unique… but mostly chickens 🐣πŸ₯πŸ₯πŸ₯πŸ₯πŸ₯πŸ“πŸ¦ƒπŸ¦šπŸ‡πŸ•Š. General admission opens at 9am and earlybird entry at 8am. Shop the sales aisles .. enjoy live bluegrass, 4 food trucks, coffee roasters, dessert tables, brunch cocktails, distilleries and more!



Truth....u downsized due to losing some space. OK great. Well now I figured out how to make more space and well added a few rabbits. Went bought one back. πŸ™ˆ


( I will be posting pictures today on my blog)


Treatment for Vent Disease
Treponematosis (aka Vent aka Syphilis)

"How to treat?" or "Is vent curable?" comes up often in all the groups I admin, so often that I decided to put a post together.

Vent is treatable but to be honest it may take more than a single treatment depending on a few factors.
If you have a large, compact herd it can be difficult to eradicate in a single treatment. But still vent is 100% curable with the proper treatments.
This is not a zoonotic disease. Meaning your rabbits will not transmit it to other species.
Transmission between rabbits is thought to be by direct and venereal contact. But other transmission means can not be discounted. There have been some cases where single home pet rabbits that have had no contact with other rabbits have tested positive. Plus there's research that has also shown that after multiple breedings a completely clean Rabbitry has tested positive after a time. Making them seropositive. So no tranmission method can be discounted.

-Bucks can spread the disease to several does easily, and young rabbits can be infected, no age limitations when it comes to being infected.
-Infected does spread it to their offspring in utero and through their milk.

Even though vent is thought to be transferred by direct conduct it is highly advisable to do a deep cleaning and sanitation of the environment as well. At the beginning of the treatments and again at the end. Doing it at the beginning you're just trying to reduce the numbers and doing it at the end your aim is to ensure it's removed from the environment.

Symptoms may vary. It is a self-limiting disease and carriers may be asymptomatic until stress occurs.
Some rabbits may never show signs or symptoms but still infect others.
Symptoms may include:
β€’ Sores/Blisters/Scabs in the genital region.
β€’ Sores/Blisters/Scabs around the mouth, nose and eyelids.
β€’ Infection in the eyes
β€’ Inguinal lymph node enlargement

Does in particular can experience:
β€’ Uterine inflammation
β€’ Neonatal deaths
β€’ Placental detachment
β€’ Abortions/Miscarriages

Bucks many times are asymptomatic but may have scars from previous breakouts.

All rabbits in a group must be treated even if no signs/symptoms of the disease are present.
Typically sores heal within 10 to 14 days, and recovered rabbits can be bred without danger of transmitting the infection.


Penicillin g Procaine or Penicillin g Benzathine or the combo of the two are what you want to use for the best results. Either IM or Subq, NEVER oral. Penicillin is too hard on a rabbits digestive system.
Tetracyclines and chloramphenicol have also been used with some success.

Penicillin treatments & dosages:
β€’ Procaine penicillin G, 40,000 IU/kg intra-muscularly, once a day, for 5–7 days. Even though it's best IM you can do subq & what I recommend for anyone not comfortable with IM.
β€’ Benzathine penicillin G, 42,000 IU/kg, subcutaneously, once a week, for 3 weeks
β€’ A mixture of both Procaine Penicillin G/Penicillin G Benzathine. Dosage is 20,000 IU/lb subcutaneously, once a week for 3 weeks.
**Abscesses from injecting penicillin is a commonly reported issue. See tips below.

Withdrawel time:
48 hour for milk/14 days for meat

Tetracycline Treatment Info:

Tetracyclines have had some success but it's not what's typically recommended first.
β€’ Tetracycline
50mg/kg = 22.7mg/kg (PO) q 8-12 hours for 7 days unless prescribed otherwise.

***May lead to a reduction of appetite

β€’ Oxytetracycline dosages:
Sterile Injectable Formula-
15mg/kg = 6.81mg/lb (SC,IM) sid-tid 7-10 days
**LA200 (liquamycin aka oxytetracycline) is 200 mg per cc/ml
1cc = 200 mg
0.1cc = 20 mg so basically for 3lb rabbit!
Withdrawal period 22 days

Oral formula-
50mg/kg = 22.7mg/lb (PO) bid 7-10 days
Withdrawal period 7 days

Chloramphenicol Treatment info:

β€’ Sterile solution:
30-50 mg/kg (PO, SC, IM) bid

β€’ Oral suspension:
15 mg/kg (PO) bid

**Chloramphenicol often leads to a decreased appetite

Withdrawal period: not positive. Found 28 days but again I'm not positive on that.
Important TIPS so keep reading!:
β€’ Newly kindled doe & kits: In my experience it's best to wait to treat does until kits are old enough to pull. I mean the damage is already done so there's no point in risking the litter. Treating mom while feeding kits can cause enterotoxemia in the kits. It's best to just wait. For the kits see next tip.
β€’ I never advise treating kits under 4 months or until they've reached 80% of their adult weight. Any antibiotic comes with risks especially with rabbits as the antibiotics wipe out both good & bad flora in the cecum.
β€’ Make sure you're using a gel based probiotic for the best results...both during and after. Most probiotics are destroyed during the digestion process and the gel at least offers some protection.
β€’ Also it's advisable to use an antibiotic cream at the same time if sores are present to help with their comfort levels. The lesions/sores/blisters can be extremely painful.
1. Panalog (anti-fungal and antibiotic ointment), Fluoroquinolone (antibiotic ointment) have been recommended but despite their broad-spectrum effects, an ointments value is in regards to how they may improve the rabbit’s comfort level but they will NOT reduce the bacterial count and cannot be considered the sole means of treatment.
2. Any salve can bring comfort. They do not have to be antibiotic in nature though.
β€’ I advise you clean the injection site with an alcohol wipe both before and after. You should be doing this with any injections. After cleaning but before injecting make sure you let the area dry completely to prevent more stinging then already present.

My own homemade disinfectant cleaners:

Get a large spray bottle. 1/4 betadine, 1/4 isopropyl alcohol (91%), 1/4 peroxide and 1/4 water. Leave lid off to prevent initial build up of oxygen from combining the betadine and peroxide. Also you don't want the first aid peroxide. I go to the Beatty supply and buy peroxide for hair...the 50 volume developer contains 15% hydrogen peroxide which is considerably stronger than anything youll buy on the shelf. You can buy higher percentage hydrogen peroxide but it's pretty expensive in comparison.
I used to love vanodine back in the day but you could only get the good kind ordering overseas. Now they replaced it with v18. It will work but it's just not quite the same.
There are a few disinfectants on the market that are good but they are pricey imo.
10% bleach solution will kill a large percentage of most things you'll run into in your rabbitry but not everything.

Pic just for attention...I don't have first hand pics of vent sores


The Mini Lop (US)

The Mini Lop, previously known as the Klein Widder, was first discovered Bob Herschbach at the German National Show in 1972. The Mini Lop was initially created from combining the the German Big Lop with the small Chinchilla. Bob being the Mini lop promoter brought them here to the US in 1974 and began tweaking the breed after his beginning presentations got feedback of wanting a more compact size. This was accomplished with the help of some fellow breeders. Finally in 1980 the Mini Lop breed was recognized as an official breed sanctioned by the ARBA.

Mini Lop Basics -

Senior Bucks and Senior Does are 6 months of age and older. The maximum show weight for a senior Mini Lop is 6 1/2 pounds.

Junior Bucks and Junior Does are under 6 months of age. The minimum show weight for a junior Mini Lop is 3 pounds; the maximum show weight for a junior is 6 pounds.

Mini Lops may not be shown in a higher or lower age classification than the rabbit's true age; animals under 6 months must be shown in junior classes and animals 6 months and older must be shown in senior classes.

Standard Characteristics-

Mini Lops should have a massive, thick-set body. Shoulders should be broad, with good depth. The overall body should be well-filled, rising to a slightly heavier hindquarter that is broad, deep, smooth, and rounded, with the lower hips being well-filled. There should be a gradual widening from the shoulder to the hindquarters. The body should be heavily muscled, firm, compact, and balanced. A dew lap is permitted in does and should balance with the rabbit.

Body Faults: Long. Narrow/parallel. Flat over the shoulder or hips. Chopped off at the hindquarter. Undercut at the hindquarter. Large dew lap on does.

The head: The head should be strong and sturdy. It should not be too narrow. The head should be closely set on the shoulders, with the neck as short as possible. The crown should be boldly arched. There should be a slight curvature of the skull from the base of the crown toward the nose. The bold head should balance with the body.

Head Faults: Long. Narrow. Pointed nose.

The ears-

Ears should be well placed on top of the head, rising from a strong basal ridge. Ears should lop vertically on both sides of the head. Ears should hang close to the cheeks with ear openings turned toward the head. There should be no creases in the ears. The ears and crown should resemble a horseshoe shape. Length and width of the ears should be proportionate and balance with the head and body. Ears should be well furred and well rounded at the bottom of the ear.

Ear and Crown Faults: Poor ear carriage. . .crown slipped back toward the shoulder so the ears hang back and away from the face. Narrow ears. Thin ears. Folds in the ears. Ear openings turned away from the head. Thinly furred ears.

The feet, legs and bones-

Legs should be thick, short, and straight, with heavy bone. Toenails in the Broken Pattern group may be either light or dark; a difference in pigmentation between the front and back feet is permitted however all front toenails should match and all rear toenails should match.

Feet, Legs, and Bone Faults: Mismatched toenails in the Broken Pattern group. Fine bone.

Mini Lops are to have rollback fur. The coat should be glossy, lustrous, uniform, medium in length, very thick and dense with good rollback.

Fur Faults: Silky fur. Long and harsh fur. Long and thin fur. Extremely short fur.

Color is to be considered only when all other points on the rabbits are equal.

The Broken Pattern is to include any recognized color with white. A full nose "butterfly" pattern of color outlined in white on the muzzle of the rabbit. Solid color circles around each eye. Solid color ears are preferred. Feet should be white. Elbow patches are desirable. Rear feet may be white, colored, or partially colored.

Color and Markings Faults: Excessive white hairs in the Solid Pattern group. Partial nose butterfly or partial eye circles in the Broken Pattern group. Brokens with so much color on the face that it makes the body markings indistinct will be slightly faulted.

Color and Markings Disqualifications from Competition: Unmatched eyes. Foreign colored spots in the eyes. Total absence of head markings in the Broken Pattern group animals. Brokens with less than 10% coloration.

Appearance of health and vigor. Bold, bright eyes. Animals should have a good, healthy coat. Animals should have firm flesh, not too soft or too flabby, and not too thin and bony. Flesh should be deep and even over the entire body.

Recognized Varieties:

Mini lops are shown in classifications: solid and broken.

Solid Pattern Varieties:

-Agouti Group: chinchilla (black, blue, chocolate, lilac, sable, smoke pearl), chestnut agouti (black or chocolate), lynx, opal

-Pointed White Group: black, blue, chocolate, or lilac points

-Self Group: black, blue, chocolate, lilac, white (pink or blue eyes)

-Shaded Group: frosted pearl (black, blue, chocolate, lilac), sable, sable point, seal, smoke pearl, tortoise (black, blue, chocolate, lilac)

-Ticked Group: silver/silver fox (black, blue, brown, fawn), steel (gold or silver tipped, black, blue, chocolate, lilac, sable, smoke pearl basic color)

-Wide Band Group: cream, fawn, orange, red

Broken Pattern Varieties: broken and tri-colored

ARBA Body Type:


Approximate Size:

4 1/2 to 6 1/2 pounds

Picture courtesy of Fatt Rabbit Farms


Garden gold. Best stuff you can ever use for the best gardens EVER.

Timeline photos

Timeline photos

Yesterday we were contacted as one of the rabbits we adopted out unfortunately suffered an incident where he choked on a pellet. Thankfully he is recovering from the ordeal thanks to his adopters quick action in saving him, but many rabbits who have this happen are not as lucky.

For anyone who has had this happen before, it is an extremely scary situation where you need to act fast in order to save your rabbits life. If it were to happen, it's not something you're going to have time to google, so preparation is the best tool to be sure you know how to help your rabbit in the case where it's choking.

Remember to only take these steps in the case that your rabbit is truly choking. They will likely be panicking, gasping for air/attempting to mouth breathe, pawing at their face, drooling excessively or fluid/food pieces/mucus coming out of the nose. The moment your rabbits airway is cleared it needs to get to a vet IMMEDIATELY.

Dana Krempels, Ph.D. (Houserabbit Adoption, Rescue, and Education, Inc. [H.A.R.E., Inc.] president & National House Rabbit Society Board member) answered a question on choking in rabbits back in September 2007 (on Here are her (2007) steps for the "rabbit Heimlich maneuver."

From a 2007 Post

- You must take the rabbit and firmly align him between your forearms so that his neck and spine are absolutely immobilized.
- Swing your arms upward (rabbit nose pointing to the sky), and then smoothly (not *too* fast) swing them down, being extremely careful not to allow the bunny to hit the floor!
- Again, it is *vital* to have the neck and back completely immobilized so that the force of the swing doesn't break the delicate back!
- The centripetal force of the swing will push the bunny's internal organs forward, forcing air out of the lungs, and (hopefully) clearing the rabbit's trachea. We have had to do this only a couple of times, and it is very traumatic, sometimes requiring 2-3 swings before the bunny can breathe again.
- Once the bunny can breathe, it's important to schedule a veterinary appointment as soon as possible, since aspiration pneumonia can result from an episode like this.

Photo Credit goes to The Bunny Guy blog.



All of the above, baby 😎


Waiting on sanction numbers back from Dutch, Dwarf Hotot, and Sable. Entry fee is $5 a rabbit. Pre-entry only! Entry deadline is April 21st at midnight.


Had a Himalayan litter but mommy didn't take care of them unfortunately πŸ˜•. First time mom of course


UPDATED Breed list!

Here is the list of sanctioned breeds for our 2022 show!

Let Dani Berger know by March 28th if you would like to sponsor your breed or add additional breeds ! Please facebook message me or email me at [email protected]

**No sanctions for additional breeds will be sent until money is received for that breed!**

β€’ Open: Argente Brun, Californian, Cavy, Champagne D Argent, Creme D Argent, Dutch, English/ French Lop, English Spot, Harlequin, Havana, Himalayan, Holland Lop, Lionhead, Mini Lop, Mini Rex, Netherland Dwarf, Palomino, Polish, Rex, Satin/ Mini Satin, Standard Chinchilla

β€’ Youth: Cavy, Dutch, English Spot, Havana, Holland Lop, Mini Rex, Netherland Dwarf, Palomino, Standard Chinchilla


For reference:

Fun fact: the ML is GC Fox Run’s Tornado, owned by Kirsten T at Flying Hoof Farms! πŸ₯°πŸ˜


This pretty much covers it... πŸ˜†


14866 Main Street
Hyndman, PA


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