Access Canine Solutions

08/05/2025

This was such a timely post! If you're not, you should follow them.

My Monday advanced group has been working on high hides with fence lines and solid walls for a few weeks.

Because my classes are virtual, my students have to find places to fulfill their assignments, and set their hides with intent since I'm not there to do it for them. In many ways, I think this makes my students better handlers. They're having to THINK about what sort of odor puzzle they're setting instead of depending on an instructor to always do it for them.|

One found a rail fence just a few inches above the dog's nose. They also did a brick wall and varied the heights. Another worked on a garden retaining mound. There had been another search recently with a high tree hole that went through and through (airflow moving through the tree).

In those recent searches, we had seen everything mentioned in this post.
So tonight, I borrowed this post and we discussed it during class.

I was thrilled to see my students connecting the dots from their recent searches and the points made in the post. And they were connecting searches from earlier sessions where they'd worked through the phases mentioned. They were seeing the process we'd gone through to get them to this point.

It's a great post. It was a great jumping-off point for my class to have a terrific discussion.

The Problem: Odor Isn't Always Where You Think It Should Be
In elevated hide scenarios with air movement, dogs often:

Work "the arc" of pooled odor downwind or laterally

Check objects with odor on them but not coming from them

Appear to be in odor for a long time without sourcing

This isn't failure, it's actually correct behavior if the dog is working scent logically.

->How Dogs Learn to Triangulate
Experience with Drift = Pattern Recognition
Dogs learn over time that odor at elevation doesn't always present from below. They learn it can drift, drop, and wrap depending on:
- Airflow
- Thermals or HVAC
- Items such as furniture, Obstructions, and walls
- Type of floor surface

Repeated exposure to drifting and arcing (Odor Rainbows as Caroline Kobe Oldham calls them) scent cones helps dogs start using movement and sampling to predict the source point.

They go from “it smells strong here but not there” to “I’ve smelled this pattern before, it’s probably up high over there.” They bracket to attack it.

->THE KEY: Handler Support Without Interference
Handlers play a key role:
- Don't crowd or redirect during the arc phase
- Let the dog map the odor field
- Encourage re-engagement with the area after a pass, especially when they’ve checked multiple drift points or angles without success
- Picking a pattern and staying committed to working that versus working the dog

*** A well-timed pause or reposition at a clean angle can help without stealing the dog's problem. Support them solving it, don't just solve it for them. ***

-> Training Progression: Build the Triangulation Skill
Use a hide that forms an "Odor Rainbow" (e.g., elevated on a post or shelf with airflow behind it). Then:

Phase 1 – Teaching the Drift Picture
- Let the dog explore the arc freely
- Observe and watch as they move toward the origin of odor
- Use accessible elevated hides first (4’ or so) with minimal cross-contamination

Phase 2 – Reward Only for Sourcing
- Reward only at the true source (not at the odor “cloud” or arc)
- Use known environmental anchors/bumpers (walls, pillars) to help guide their odor mapping
- Let them fail and re-approach, this builds the odor understanding and anticipation (be mindful of frustration)

Phase 3 – Proofing with Complexity
- Add competing objects and surfaces that catch odor
- Hides at various elevations and locations where odor collects in misleading ways
- Use environmental setups where working back is the only route to source

-> Dogs Learn Through Pattern Exposure, Not Repetition
Let the dog build their own database of odor behavior. The more they encounter odor arcs, scent curtains, lofted cones, and downward drifts, the more confidently they’ll:
- Work the arc
- Pause
- Reorient
- Climb the scent ladder back to source

Your Training Mantra:
Let them learn the air flow. Let them learn the wall. Let them learn the climb.

You can try and teach triangulation. The best approach is to build the conditions where the dog discovers it themselves.

This post was inspired by my friend Gary Strickland. Hopefully I did it justice.

07/30/2025

Maple is succeeding in her job change - from police detection dog to pollen detector.

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/12MY5SK3KoX/

Maple is part of the team at MSU’s Pollinator Performance Center doing critical pollinator research and education. A retired police K-9, she uses her super sense of smell to detect bacteria in bee colonies to help prevent disease from spreading.

Currently, beekeepers must manually inspect colonies for disease, but dogs like Maple can identify disease much faster, which could make a big impact on the industry.

This project is one of many occurring at the Pollinator Performance Center. Operating since 2021, the center allows MSU to be at the forefront of honeybee and other pollinator research.

07/24/2025

Dogs are not meant to play with every dog they meet!

https://www.facebook.com/share/r/1CQBGKyMFE/

07/07/2025

THIS!!! SO MUCH THIS!!

And when the positive-only crowd points to front-point harnesses and says "they're positive" (somehow implying they're better than a pinch collar or something) -- they're so wrong.

They work on leverage. Most of them are designed so that the ring is below the dog's horizontal center of gravity. Put a snug belt just below your hips. Hook a leash to it. Try to walk. Next, have someone hold the leash and try to walk wherever you want, while the handler stands still. You'll feel the top of your body go right over the top. Do it on soft ground, or you're likely to bust your nose.

You're essentially training the dog not to pull by threatening to trip him when he pulls.

I don't care if it's a front-ring harness, a pinch or slip collar, a halter (which has some issues too), or a flat collar — if you pull on it at all, it's corrective.

Now, I don't have a problem with corrections in the right circumstances. But let's not pretend, shall we?

As the post discusses, I often see these "no-pull" harnesses on young dogs who have open growth plates and developing bones and joints. They're squeezing the shoulders together and impeding normal gait.

This is a repost(ish) but well worth repeating. Many of you have heard me harp on harness fit time and again. Having spent decades evaluating harness fit in working dogs of all types with thermal imaging (as well as having years of working and active dog experience combined with a strong biomechanics knowledge base) using front-clipping or "Gentle Leader" type harnesses only guarantee more structural stress in active dogs that makes for more work for me and other chiro/sports med colleagues. PLEASE only use harnesses that fit with proper ergonomics! [NOTE: I've tweaked the English & syntax in the added-on description below so it might read a little differently.]

"All dog owners should know this fact! A harness like this is a terrible injustice to your pet!! AVOID USING THIS TYPE OF HARNESS !

In a dog's forward movement, a harness with a tape that crosses its chest from side to side hinders it in the same way humans would bother going hiking with an elastic band holding their arms. Physiological movement of the front extremity is prohibited. Just like rubber would inhibit the pendular movement of our ARMS.

Thanks to the "Study of Canine Movement at the University of Jena", we now know that in the dog, the center of rotation of the front limb is at the top of the scapula, but in the human the center of rotation in the arm is in the shoulder (head of the humerus). Jena's study demonstrates, among other things, the importance of scapular movement for dog locomotion. Now we understand the importance of taking into account the free movement of the dog's shoulder when choosing a chest harness.
That means there SHOULDN'T be bands across the scapular (orange) area, and they shouldn't cross the chest side to side either.

From the point of view of biomechanics and physiotherapy, it is recommended not to choose getting harnesses that have a strap that goes through the chest laterally, or that have straps that touch or press the scapula.

Always lean towards harness models with ERGONOMIC design, to allow maximum freedom of movement for your dog, improve his well-being and safety during his walk.
Source : REAL CEPPA"

07/03/2025

At what point does the working line and show line of a breed become a two separate breeds?

Are we going solely by looks? I can point to several breeds that have very similar phy traits. And these days, the difference in physical traits between the working and show line are pretty drastic.

Are we going by behavior? See the former.

Is it genetics?

To anyone who regularly works with both show-line and working-line German Shepherds, it will come as no surprise that a 2019 study (Sarviaho R, Hakosalo O, Tiira K, et al.) analyzing over 173,000 genetic markers across 330 German Shepherd Dogs confirmed that show lines and working lines are in fact genetically distinct populations.

Working lines have been selectively bred for traits like nerve, drive, aggression, and functional performance, whereas show lines shifted their focus to appearance, conformation, and movement for the show ring. Over time, this prioritization of looks over ability has significantly reduced the working capacity and temperament of show-line dogs.

Despite these genetic and functional differences, kennel clubs still register both lines as the same breed. As a consequence, the standards and judging of the breed survey have been progressively watered down to ensure show-line dogs can continue to pass. Similarly, IGP has gradually lowered its standards at least in part to allow show-line dogs to remain competitive.

But this erosion of standards doesn’t just impact show lines. It ultimately harms working lines, too. By continually making it easier for dogs bred without true working temperament to participate, the incentive to maintain real, breed-specific working traits diminishes.

This is not intended to be an attack on show line dogs or breeders. I own a show line GSD and I love her to death. But we must speak honestly about what is happening to our breed as the traits beloved by working dog handlers are set aside in favour of traits that make for better pets or better performance in the show ring. Breeds don’t lose their identity overnight. They lose it through a cycle of lowered expectations.

06/25/2025

My students this week are being introduced how to teach their pups how to do a voluntary nose/mouth and head dunk.

This training can be used not only to get the dog to blow their nose on cue and wash out the mouth and eyes, but it can also be used to help your dog cool off quickly.

“Cool first, transport second” reduced morbidity and mortality of acute heat injury in dogs.

Open access article: jav.ma/hyperthermia

Article contributed by Penn Vet Working Dog Center and Penn Vet

06/25/2025

Stay cool out there! And know what to do about heat stress in your dog.

06/25/2025

I always like to re-share this when the weather gets hot!

Temperature and relative humidity are what you need to know to calculate if it's safe to search with your dog. And if you plan to trial in summer, you need to practice in the weather you plan to trial in so your dog is acclimated.

Avoid getting your dog out of the cool car and immediately running to the start line. Make sure you have enough time to walk the dog around so they can acclimate.

And if you use a warm-up box in your training routine, this is when a warming box at trial becomes a fundamental tool. You can use it like you would a dropped aid to help determine if your dog is acclimated and ready.

Science Sunday: "Effects of Heat and Acclimation on the Capability of Detection Canines"

This is a recent summary about K9 acclimatization to search and also to temperature/humidity. The summary indicates that dogs should not be working when the heat index is in the extreme danger zone of combined temperature > 90F with >90% humidity (>126 heat index).

If dogs must work when temperatures are in the danger zone (heat index > 104; see the chart), it should be limited and caution/precooling/regular cooling implemented.

06/12/2025

In my house, this is called a "Squeakectomy". They get it for 24 hours - then mom performs surgery.

06/11/2025

It's all in good fun and for a good cause. Of course, I ordered one.

Buuuut..... My students will know I approach this issue a little differently.

In my training, I'll call alert when my dog gives me my minimum alert criteria behavior - and not before.

Yes, I should be able (and can) read my dog's subtle changes in behavior before he gives his indication.

Yes, I know I might lose placement. Clock is ticking after all!

But I'll wait, thanks.

Do dogs always give their trained alert in every situation? Of course not.

But that's not the same as waiting for a stronger and more confident alert and insist upon some level of obedience to odor.

If I start accepting a subpar behavior, that's exactly what I'm going to start getting.

It's like contacts in a trial-wise agility dog. They learn when you're going to insist, and when you're in a rush. Anyone in dog sports has seen the dog that does beautiful running or stopped contacts in class, but blow them in trial. Even if the trial is being held at their school!

Or the obedience dog that has a beautiful heel or stay in practice, has shown themselves capable of doing so in trial, but starts blowing it off because the dog has figured out the handler is unable to follow through or insist in the trial ring.

Early in my career, I had a dog that you could take literally 2 steps outside the ring and the judge (or anyone) could do a bite check. But the instant you went through the gates, he'd growl if you tried to check his bite. This was the unfortunate result of an instructor who was both afraid of my breed and didn't tell me to stop baiting him when she approached in class for the bite check. It took once. He growled, she backed off. One time learning.

Ironically, this was a Service Dog that would let anyone including kids pet and feed him or take toys or food in public. But in that very specific scenario if inside the ring gate.... He learned he could bluff.

And I admit, I may have been watching too many videos of late of Detection K9 cops calling bs alerts. It's a subject I've been investigating lately. I've seen some real unethical calls, with zero change in behavior and/or clear cueing from the handler.

So I'll take the ten seconds and give up my ribbon if it means my dog understands I want to see an *unquestionable*, clear and dummy-proof obvious change in behavior that says, "It's here! Right there, dummy! Where's my cookie, already?"

I want him to convince me and the judge. I want a complete novice to be able to see it.

About half my training in the early stages is developing strong obedience to odor and a consistent alert behavior.

Why bother if you're not going to insist upon it in the ring? You gotta reinforce it there if you want to keep it.

"Use it or lose it!" I always tell my students.

Obedience to odor and reliable alert behavior takes consistency, reinforcement, and maintanance.

You get what you reward! Always!

All that said, it's still a cute t-shirt and it's for a great cause. I can't wait to get mine! Click the link to get yous!

(photo is of the back of the shirt)

https://www.customink.com/fundraising/lets-help-morris-animal-foundation-cure-canine-cancer/receipt?paypal_identifier=5H5365484F698593S&sfnsn=mo