Sérénité Canine Toilettage Comportemental

21/08/2025

20/08/2025

12/08/2025

Proactive Dog Training: Why Prevention Beats Cure Every Time

In the world of dog training, there’s an undeniable truth: it’s far easier to prevent a problem than it is to fix one. Yet, time and again, owners and even some trainers fall into the trap of “waiting to see if it gets better.” Spoiler alert, it usually doesn’t.

Being proactive in training means anticipating potential issues before they become problems, and setting a dog up for success from the very start. In contrast, reactive training waits for trouble to occur before intervening, often leaving you with an uphill battle against entrenched habits and learned behaviours.

Why Proactivity Matters

Dogs learn through repetition. Every time an unwanted behaviour is repeated without intervention, it’s being reinforced, whether intentionally or not. A puppy who jumps up on people for attention may look cute at 12 weeks old, but left unchecked, that same behaviour in a 35-kilo adult Labrador can be dangerous.

When a behaviour becomes a habit, you’re not just training a new behaviour, you’re having to overwrite an existing one. That takes far more time, effort, and consistency than simply guiding the dog correctly from the start.

Being proactive also reduces stress, both for you and the dog. You’re not constantly “putting out fires” or scrambling to fix problems; you’re calmly shaping the behaviour you do want.

Proactive vs Reactive: The Difference in Action

Let’s take a few common examples:
• Loose Lead Walking
• Proactive: You start reinforcing good lead manners the moment the dog comes home, rewarding a slack lead and changing direction before they surge ahead.
• Reactive: You allow the dog to pull for months, then try to “fix” it with frustration and corrections once it’s a well-established habit.
• Recall
• Proactive: You build recall in low-distraction environments and gradually increase difficulty, ensuring the dog understands and enjoys coming back to you.
• Reactive: You wait until the dog is off lead, sees a rabbit, and bolts, then shout yourself hoarse wondering why they’re ignoring you.
• Reactivity Towards Other Dogs
• Proactive: You teach focus and engagement early, work on calm exposure, and prevent negative encounters.
• Reactive: You avoid dealing with it until your dog is lunging and barking every time another dog is within 50 metres.

Train the Dog in Front of You, Not the Dog in Your Head

One of the most common mistakes is assuming a dog “knows” what you want or worse, letting them decide what you want. Dogs aren’t mind readers. They understand what is consistently rewarded and reinforced.

If you don’t clearly show a dog what you do want, they’ll fill in the blanks themselves. That’s when you get behaviours that are fun for the dog but problematic for you, like sprinting through the door ahead of you, barking for attention, or raiding the kitchen counters.

Being proactive means setting boundaries and expectations from the start, rather than waiting for the dog to “grow out of it” (they won’t, they’ll grow into it).

The Cost of Waiting

Once a behaviour becomes a learned behaviour, you’re not simply removing it, you’re replacing it. This is harder because:
1. Muscle memory – Dogs physically get used to the pattern of the behaviour.
2. Emotional reinforcement – The behaviour has given them a result they like, whether that’s chasing a squirrel or avoiding something they fear.
3. Habit strength – The more they practise it, the more automatic it becomes.

Breaking this cycle means introducing an alternative behaviour, reinforcing it heavily, and consistently preventing the old behaviour from happening, a process that takes far longer than if you’d prevented it from taking root in the first place.

Practical Steps for Being Proactive
1. Observe Early – Learn your dog’s body language and notice subtle changes. Address excitement, anxiety, or pushy behaviour before it escalates.
2. Set Rules and Stick to Them – If you don’t want a behaviour in the future, don’t allow it “just this once.”
3. Reward What You Want – Don’t wait for the bad behaviour to start. Actively reinforce calmness, focus, and engagement.
4. Control the Environment – Limit opportunities for unwanted behaviours until the dog is trained to handle them.
5. Build Skills Before You Need Them – Teach recall, leave it, settle, and loose lead walking long before you’re in a situation that requires them.

Final Thought

As trainers, handlers, and owners, we owe it to our dogs to lead them with clarity. Proactive training isn’t about being strict for the sake of it, it’s about providing a framework where the dog knows exactly what is expected and is consistently rewarded for getting it right.

If you take nothing else from this, remember: the best time to teach a behaviour is before you need it, and the best time to stop an unwanted one is before it starts.

www.k9manhuntscotland.co.uk

24/07/2025

Let’s Talk Entitlement: Your Dog Is Not the Centre of the Universe (And Neither Are You)

Right, let’s get a few things straight from the off:
Your dog is not a human. It doesn’t think like a human, speak like a human, or interpret the world in the way we do. And guess what? That’s not a fault, it’s a fact.

There’s a growing trend among some dog owners to treat their dogs like entitled little toddlers, fuelled by this fluffy notion that “they just want to say hi” or “they’re friendly”. That’s lovely… until your “friendly” off-lead dog barrels up to a dog that’s nervous, reactive, working, injured, or just plain wants to be left alone.

Your Dog Is Not Entitled to Say Hello to Everyone

Let’s put it bluntly: your dog doesn’t need to greet every person or dog it sees. You don’t wave and say hello to every stranger in Tesco, do you? (And if you do, people probably cross the aisle to avoid you.)

Dogs are the same. Some are social butterflies, others are more reserved, and some are just trying to keep their heads down and cope with the world. When you let your dog run up to another without permission, you’re not being nice, you’re being selfish. And you’re setting your dog up to get told off, either by the other dog, the handler, or both.

Puppy Classes and the Myth of Mass Socialisation

Doing puppy classes in group settings where every pup is allowed to run around and say hello to everything that moves? You’re laying the groundwork for a dog that thinks every encounter is a party. That’s not socialisation. That’s overstimulation. You’re teaching them that the presence of another dog or person means “excitement” rather than neutrality or calmness.

Later down the line, when your adolescent dog loses its rag every time it sees another dog, you’ll wonder why. Spoiler: it’s because you taught them to.

Let’s Talk Leads and Recall

If you don’t have a reliable recall on your dog, don’t let them off the lead. Simple. There’s no grey area here. A dog without recall is a loose cannon. If you can’t call them away from a squirrel, jogger, cyclist, or another dog, then keep them on a lead or long line until you’ve put the work in. Freedom is earned, not assumed.

Having a dog is a responsibility. It’s not a right to do whatever you fancy and assume everyone else will tolerate it. The world doesn’t revolve around you or your dog.

Respect Others. Control Your Dog.

You’ve no idea what that other dog is going through. It might be reactive, fearful, recovering from surgery, or in training. The person handling that dog might be managing trauma, anxiety, or just trying to enjoy a quiet walk. Your dog doesn’t get to invade that space just because you think they’re “friendly”.

If your dog lunges at others, pulls you down the street, barks at every passer-by, or flattens small children with glee, it’s not “cute”. It’s a lack of training. Own it, fix it, and stop making excuses.

The Bottom Line

Your dog is a dog. Not a fur baby. Not a social ambassador. Not a therapy dog in training because you read a Facebook post that said it has a “healing energy”.

Train it. Lead it. Be its advocate. And above all else, be respectful of the space and comfort of others.

Because your dog may be part of your world, but it’s not the centre of everyone else’s.

www.k9manhuntscotland.co.uk

19/07/2025

20/06/2025

Your dog’s body language…

A to Z of Dog Body Language

A – Averted Gaze

A dog deliberately turning its head or eyes away is often showing appeasement. It’s not being rude, it’s saying, “I’m not a threat” or “I’m uncomfortable.” This is often missed or misunderstood as disobedience.

B – Body Freeze

Sudden stillness or tension in the body is a red flag. Dogs don’t freeze for fun. This is often the precursor to an aggressive response or an attempt to make themselves ‘invisible’ in a stressful situation.

C – C-Shaped Curve

A dog curving its body into a loose “C” when approaching another dog or person is offering polite, non-threatening body language. Straight-line approaches can be perceived as confrontational.

D – Drooling (When Not Food Related)

Excessive drooling in a non-food context can indicate stress, nausea, or anxiety. It’s a sign that should never be ignored, especially in new environments or training scenarios.

E – Ears

Ears tell a tale. Forward ears can signal alertness or arousal (positive or negative), sideways ears might mean uncertainty, and pinned-back ears usually signal fear, stress, or appeasement.

F – Furrowed Brow

A wrinkled forehead or tense facial muscles often indicate concern or confusion. Dogs don’t wrinkle their brows for style, it’s usually a cognitive or emotional signal.

G – Ground Sniffing (Out of Context)

Often a calming signal. Dogs might sniff the ground excessively to diffuse tension, avoid conflict, or communicate that they mean no harm in a charged environment.

H – Hackles Raised (Piloerection)

Raised fur along the back doesn’t always mean aggression, it means arousal. Could be excitement, fear, or defensive drive. Read it in context with the rest of the body.

I – Inhibited Bite

When a dog bites with measured pressure or holds without puncturing, it’s a sign of self-control and social awareness. It’s not “just playing” if there’s still tension in the body.

J – Jaw Tension

A tight jaw, closed mouth, or clamped teeth can signal discomfort or the build-up before a warning growl. A relaxed dog usually has a soft mouth and may pant gently.

K – “Kiss to Dismiss”

A quick lick to the face, often seen in puppies or lower-ranking dogs. It looks affectionate, but it often means “I’m uncomfortable, please back off.”

L – Lip Licking / Tongue Flicks

A subtle but common stress signal. Dogs will often lick their lips or flick their tongue when anxious, uncertain, or trying to avoid conflict.

M – Mouth (Open vs Closed)

A relaxed dog often has a slightly open mouth with soft panting. A tight, closed mouth suggests stress, especially if the dog was panting moments earlier and suddenly closes it.

N – Nose Nudging

Can be affectionate or a bid for attention, but in tense scenarios, it may be a sign of displacement or a redirection strategy, especially if paired with stiff body posture.

O – Over the Shoulder Look

Dogs glancing back at you while walking ahead may be checking in. However, if the head is low and the eyes wide, it could mean concern or uncertainty.

P – Posture (Overall)

Confident dogs have balanced, weight-forward postures. Dogs leaning back, crouching, or making themselves small may be anxious, submissive, or fearful.

Q – Quick Movements

Sudden, jerky movements usually indicate over-arousal, reactivity, or a build-up of tension. Even playful zoomies can tip into stress release or redirection.

R – Rolling Over (Submissively)

When done slowly with a soft body, it’s appeasement. When done quickly and stiffly, it may be defensive, inviting contact could result in a bite.

S – Stiffness

Muscle tension is never a good sign. Whether it’s the neck, tail, legs, or whole body, stiff = serious. It’s a warning sign the dog is uncomfortable or about to react.

T – Tail (Position and Movement)

A high, tight wag can mean arousal or threat. A low, tucked tail = fear. A wide, loose wag with a wiggling back end = happy and relaxed. Watch the base of the tail, not just the wag.

U – Unusual Stillness

A normally bouncy dog that suddenly stands still and scans the environment isn’t just taking in the view. It could be scenting, assessing, or feeling uneasy.

V – Vocalisations

Growling, whining, barking, or yelping, every sound has a context. Growls are often misunderstood; they’re a gift, a warning before action. Don’t punish it; listen to it.

W – Whale Eye (Half Moon Eye)

When you can see the whites of a dog’s eyes, especially when the head turns away but the eyes stay fixed, it often signals discomfort, fear, or brewing tension.

X – X Marks the Spot (Tail Between Legs)

A tail tightly tucked under can create a visible “X” shape when paired with curved hind legs. A clear indication of fear or stress.

Y – Yawning (Out of Context)

A classic calming signal. Dogs yawn when they’re stressed, not just tired. In training sessions, it can be a sign to slow down or back off.

Z – Zoomies (Frenetic Random Activity Periods)

Though often cute, zoomies can be a sign of overstimulation or stress release, especially in dogs that don’t get enough structured outlets for energy.

The A to Z above offers a broad overview of canine body language, but it’s essential to remember that all dogs are individuals. Breed traits, life experiences, environment, and temperament all influence how a dog expresses itself. What may be a sign of stress in one dog could simply be a quirk or habit in another. Context is everything. Learning to read body language is not about memorising a chart, it’s about observing, understanding, and building a relationship with the dog in front of you. So use this guide as a starting point, but always let your own dog be your best teacher.

www.k9manhuntscotland.co.uk

17/06/2025

“Oh rubbish....our nails don’t hurt when they grow.”
I hear you, but let’s look at why trainers, groomers, vets (really anyone who works closely with dogs) will urge you to please trim your dog’s nails or “claws”.

It isn’t always nice to hear but it is an important message.

What happens when your dogs nails are too long?
The toes can start to splay, they can spread our unnaturally.
This affects how the foot can move and place itself.

Did your dog’s toes once sit neatly and tightly together?
Have you noticed they now sit wider apart?
Notice those bigger gaps?
The foot isn't as compact as it one was.

Over time.... the toes can twist and they may have a new way of moving or walking, one their body isn’t built for and it can be very subtle and tricky to spot.

That new movement affects joints and muscles all the way up the leg.
Eventually.... it can impact the hips.
The gait can be affected as well as their whole walking style.

Why does this happen?
Dog nails don’t retract.
They stay long (and for long nails concrete walking may not help at all...it just means more pain).
Long nails can’t sink into hard surfaces.
The toes bend... the joints strain and the foot compensates in unnatural ways.

Will they show pain?
Some dogs will..... many don’t or can’t.
That doesn't mean they’re not in a lot of discomfort.

Pain often shows in unexpected ways...unwanted behaviour, movement and posture.
Pain that is preventable becomes a welfare issue.

We owe it to our dogs to help them live (as much as possible) a pain free life.

Yes...nail care can be hard.
Yes, some dogs hate it and progress can be snail pace slow.

However....we owe it to our dogs to not give up on them or their nails.

11/06/2025

Are you looking to get a Golden Retriever? Ask the right questions to the breeder about health testing.