The dogs body grooming

11/03/2026

Sorry to say that over the winter a number of my elderly dogs have crossed the rainbow bridge. As a result I have some spare capacity and am able to take new clients. If interested please phone for an appointment on 250 991 2759. Thankyou

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12/06/2023

well unfortunately fire season is upon us again, and whilst it may not directly come to mind in a grooming sense, there are a couple of things I would remind you to think about in your evacuation pack for the furry members of the family! Keep a spare leash, drinking bowl (even a tin foil pie plate can do at a push) and at least one container of water in the vehicle you will use.
If you have a spare brush or comb that your dog (or cat) is used to, then slip that in a bag with at least one towel and a small amount of your usual pet shampoo. If you are unfortunate enough to evacuate from or drive through a really smoky area, then when you get to safety and have time to calm down you may want to try and get them bathed as there are few things more offputting than trying to sleep next to a pet that smells like the bonfire - as well as being bad for everyone's lungs. It may also help both you and your pet de-stress a little if you have the routine of grooming whilst waiting out the emergency. I am not saying you need to go the whole hog, but even a couple of minutes spent in the 'normal' routine can help.
Not every place is as fortunate as Quesnel in having at least one place that offers a self-dog-wash station, but even a campsite shower or some buckets would help if water is readily available, but if things are rationed then you will probably just have to put up with at least some degree of smoky smell, but it is surprising how much you can reduce it by brushing or combing through the fur to get rid of the ash/dust particulates that you have experienced.
You may find that having a couple of basic tools are also handy of you have to stay in a place with a lot of brush to walk your pet so that they find just the right patch of grass to relieve themselves (I know some will not want to perform anywhere that is strange, but you have to persevere....) so you may want to be able to easily remove burrs, seeds, twigs etc for both comfort and safety, with the added bonus that if you are in a risky area you can check them more easily for ticks (and occasionally fleas).
Please remember to clean up after your dog as a courtesy as well as basic hygiene for everyone in a crowded situation.
If your dog has dental problems and you usually brush or clean them, then save the end of a tube of your usual tooth cleaner and put in the grab bag with an old or spare toothbrush - at a push a gentle finger can substitute for a couple of days!
Have a small bag of kibble to grab as well - the handy ziploc bag is fine - and if possible a spare bowl or dish for them to eat from.
If you can be organised enough to put together a portable basic first-aid kit for the furry ones, then it can be an advantage, but in an emergency use what you have to hand. There is advice on the internet for a basic kit and several places sell them if you can afford it. Ideally you probably have stuff in your cupboard, so even a ziploc bag with the grab stuff is good - we have stuck a note on our grab stuff to remind us what else we need to collect from its usual places, as space-wise it is not practical to always have everything by the door, as I am sure you will agree.
Before the worst happens, try and spend a couple of minutes looking at where you are possibly going to end up - look on line for the details of vets and pet shops both en-route or at possible end-point in case you need something in a hurry and make a note of the phone numbers - you are more likely to get a sympathetic ear if you can contact them and give clear details of what the emergency is during evacuations.
It is also a good idea to either pack the recent vaccination certificates (if any) in the grab bag or at least take copies or photos on your phone so that whoever is dealing with your dog knows what they may be dealing with and not waste time (and you possibly a lot of money) eliminating what may be wrong. If you have registration papers for your pedigree dog then a copy or photo of those is also a good idea to prove ownership if questioned.
Bear in mind that you may also end up in an area where things may be left around that are poisonous to your dog - find out what the signs are, for example, of your dog having ingested cannabis gummies or other hazardous substances that careless people can leave around and be more aware of looking out for used needles or just anything out of the ordinary - if you can, take a picture of it rather than put yourself at risk by trying to pick anything sharp up.
So with the usual pleas to be kind to their feet in these hot temperatures as well as only walk in the cool (they can't take off their fur coats, after all), make sure you all stay hydrated, plan ahead a little and keep safe

30/06/2022

Feet.......you either love them or loathe them, but one thing many years as a competitive dancer teaches you is that you have to take care of them! Same applies to our furry family members, and you have to think for them as they can't tell you themselves if they hurt or are sore, so a few things to think of now the hot weather is here (although after yesterday's rain you may not think so....).
Remember that a dog's paw is made up of bone ,ligaments, blood supply and connective tissue but tough as they may appear, they are not made of armour.
Try to walk them on grass where possible and always avoid walking during peak temperature times - not just because of the risk of heat exhaustion but because hard surfaces like sidewalks and pavement store heat very efficiently, sometimes up to 20+ degrees more than the air temperature, and whilst you have shoes to protect your feet, dogs can really suffer.
Whilst you can opt to buy things like paw socks or boots to provide a barrier to the pavement temperatures and surfaces, there are some simple things you can do instead.
Remember that if you have a dog that is primarily an indoor dog, they will be even more susceptible to blistering and ulcers just like you going without shoes. As far as practicable, during the summer months try and exercise before sunup and sundown - that does not mean you have to be outside with a torch, just before it gets too hot!
You can moisturise the pads with a light application of creams containing Vitamin E or even a smear of vaseline - just make sure to rub it in gently but well so that the dog does not lick it all off straight away as it is not designed to be eaten and if not sold as a pet product will be at 'human' strength. Do this after exercise so that it does not get covered in dirt and has a chance to soak in: it also means you get to check the pads regularly to spot any problems before they get worse. Paw wax may be used if you have it, not just in cold weather.
If your dog starts limping check the paws immediately for blisters, scrapes, thorns, bee stingers or stones trapped between the pads.
If they suddenly spend a lot of time licking it could also be a contact allergy, and this can generate a yeast infection that needs veterinary care - if you think you dog has an allergy like this, take a few minutes to wash their feet after a walk, it can pay dividends. Unfortunately in some dogs obsessive chewing and licking of the feet can cause a 'lick granuloma' and may be related to stress or boredom, so it is not easy to know the cause, but you can sometimes spot and deal with the physical triggers.
It is not unusual for dogs to have cracked or dry pads, especially if they spend a lot of time on rough surfaces such as concrete dog runs, and they will eventually get naturally thickened pads but they will still benefit from some moisturising.
Another danger to dog paws I have been made aware of is Foxtails, this arrow-shaped pointed w**d can get under the skin and cause an abscess - if you go hunting or hiking regularly in areas where these plants grow, be aware they can pe*****te the skin between the toes as the paw spreads out to support the dog's movement - the penetrative shape means that the dog cannot easily lick or chew it out, so building this into your post exercise/hint routine is good practice and may help prevent a vet bill. If your dog has hairy paws, they can sometimes trap things like speargrass as well, which can work its way into the skin due to natural movement of the paw.
So be kind to your pets' feet as if they were your own and you will both enjoy the warmer weather.

28/05/2022

So how is everybody doing with this unseasonal weather? It is certainly playing havoc with a number of the dogs coming to me - normally I have a succession of dogs blowing their coat and clogged with underfur, but this year it seems as though the up and down temperatures are causing shedding in fits and starts, and sometimes it is a fight to get the dogs looking tip top. My boy is thankfully smooth haired but even he is yielding underfur at odd times it seems!
So it boils down to how to make what can seem a never ending task go more smoothly (no pun intended).
For those of you familiar with your dog and how to manage its fur, you probably have a strategy in place that works, so this is aimed more at those new to either owning a pet or who feel as though the trials of grooming are more stressful than anticipated.
The exterior of the hair shaft, or cuticle, is very similar to human hair - if you imagine shingles on a roof, this is the way the cuticle overlays and protects the interior of the hair shaft. When the hair is damaged or smothered, the cuticle can lift into an irregular rough surface on each hair: seeing how many hairs make up fur, you can see where this is going! Shedding coat gets snagged on these tiny rough edges, usually becoming stuck there, and thus a tangle or matt forms - a simplistic way of looking at it, but explains how the problem starts.
Many breeds and cross-breeds have certain areas where this is more of a problem, especially around the neck or rear ends, for some it is underneath the tummy or armpits, and the longer the time that elapses, the greater the problem because the dead coat gets caught in the still growing coat as it separates from the follicle, further damaging the live coat, and we are in a cycle of problems (as well as pain and discomfort for your pet when the problem is dealt with - and no-one likes to have a dog that looks like a motheaten rug where the problems are severe enough to have had to be shaved out). Run your hands over your dog regularly to assess which areas may need a little more time and effort, as it will vary through the shedding period.
So here are some points to remember that may seem obvious but can get lost in the stress of all that hair.....
If you are unable to get your dog regularly to a groomer, it is really important to brush or comb denser areas as often as you can until the shedding stops - you may also opt to try and use the products on the market to minimise the issues, to the extent that you can afford to do so.
Do read the information on the item carefully though to avoid buying lots of odds and ends that may not do what you think they might.
Regularly working through the coat also reduces the strain on your vacuum cleaner! Use good brushes, fur rakes and think about possibly trying detanglers (gels or sprays that have emollients and other chemicals in them that can help the detangling process by smoothing areas of the matt or tangle when worked into the area with your fingers) depending on the coat length and density. Invest in these detangling sprays if you find the coat is persistently problematic, they can make a big difference to working the matts and tangles out with less discomfort to your pet (applies to cats and rabbits as well as dogs), and try to use products that smooth the coat.
Be open to the products that may be used by other animal owners (e.g. some of the horse products or rakes used to prepare livestock for showing may be cheaper than dog products and work just as well - my favourite rake is actually designed for show cows!) but if they are chemical then you MUST check carefully that they are not too extreme in pH or you could give yourself a big vet bill for skin problems. Do some research into the products on line if you can.
Like a number of grooming problems, investing some time in planning your regular home grooming can really save you money in the long run - but sometimes it is more efficient to invest in a little help (commercial product or a professional) to get your dog's coat to the point where you are just maintaining it in good health.
So here's to a short shedding season......

15/04/2022

hi everyone
sorry for the long break, bereavement in UK requiring trip to sort out will etc. Add Covid into the mix (no symptoms!) and everything took much longer than planned.
So, you know how they say never put anything smaller than your elbow in your ear? Well, much the same applies to the furry member of the family.
I know we are going into spring but if your dog is like mine, there is still plenty of stuff to rootle around in now the snow is finally going, and things do end up in places like ears.
Now we all know each dog is unique, and some never have anything going on in their ears, whilst others seem to use them like butterfly nets and get everything from pine straw to leafy bits and insects! Some get irritation without you having a clue how they got it (like allergies) only at certain times of year. Other less fortunate ones get yeast or bacteria overgrowth constantly. Dogs with erect ears hardly ever have problems whilst drop eared breeds need to be looked after more diligently in general.
You should also be aware that sometimes less is more, and overcleaning a healthy ear can alter the natural bacterial balance and actually cause problems where none existed before. Most groomers incorporate ear cleaning, and apply the appropriate cleaner after bathing and drying, as this ensures we remove any water that may have inadvertently got into the ear. It also allows us to remove normal ear wax and secretions that may not shake out BUT this is where you should take especial care and if you are cleaning your own dog's ears, NEVER use anything like cotton buds as these can push debris inwards and possibly damage the inner structure of the ear canal.
If you know your dog, you will generally pick up on signs of ear infection, which include the following: redness, odour, swelling, itchiness, discharge, head tilt, tenderness, increased reactiveness when grooming around the head and ears.
If there is any of the above, monitor for at least a day and then consider a vet exam if there is no improvement or increased deterioration. You know your dog best.
If a groomer tells you there is pus or discharge, they will not normally clean the ear but leave it for the vet to see and take swabs
If the ear looks normal but there is a little waxy build up, you can take steps to clean the ear. This generally involves squeezing a FEW drops into the ear, massage base of ear allowing the cleaner to loosen wax and debris. Allow the dog to shake vigorously, this should dislodge any residue and cleaner. Use a small piece of cotton wool or gauze to dry any liquid on the outer ear.
There are a number of ear cleaners available for dogs, be aware that those containing alcohol may irritate an undiagnosed infection; some contain wax dissolving agents, and some are designed to be astringent and help dry the ears of dogs that are frequent swimmers. Best practice is ask your vet for a recommendation if your dog has had any sort of ear problem and incorporate it into your grooming routines.
So I hope that gives you a few helpful pointers on ear care.

27/01/2022

Hi everyone
one question I am often asked is what sort of brush should the owner be using for their particular dog.
Naturally a lot depends on the type of fur your dog has, how often you are actually able to brush them (I know we all mean to do it far more often, but in the real world the intention is not always matched by the schedule or physical ability!)
In a nutshell, there are 3 basic types of brush - slicker, pin and bristle.
Bristle brushes are really good for short haired dogs, that do not have a coat that needs a lot of pe*******on or lift, (things like Pug and some shorter haired terrier-type), and on some breeds with longer hair that do not have an undercoat. It is designed to distribute the natural coat oils throughout the hair shaft and can give the coat a polished or shiny look, so it can also work on the big guys like Labradors or Mastiffs. However personally I would not use it on longer haired breeds as the lack of pe*******on means it is not particularly efficient. No doubt there are people out there who would use nothing else, so if you find it woks for your dog, stick with it!
Pin brushes can be used on slightly longer fur to help lift the fur to release any dander but also to lightly style your dog after drying, use on breeds such as Papillon and some smaller mixed breed dogs. Again it is not always a first choice with a longer haired dog especially with an undercoat. It is good for sensitive-skinned dogs and may be a gentle way to introduce a small puppy to grooming as the rounded pins do not risk irritating the skin. Be sure to use long strokes though to the end of the section of fur you are working on each time to avoid introducing knots and tangles though. Do not 'dab' at the area of fur you want to work on This is important.
Finally there is what is known as the slicker brush, beloved of groomers and dog show people everywhere. These can be hard, medium or soft depending on the thickness and stiffness of the steel pins, so use the one appropriate to your groomers advice. Be aware that they take a bit of getting used to so that you do not inadvertently injure your dog, most groomers are happy to help you learn the right way to use any brush. These types of brushes also come in standard. long and extra long, with bent steel pins that really grab that fur, so use with caution. NEVER go so deep into the fur that you scratch the skin -it is unkind and potentially harmful to your dog (and wallet).
Longer haired dogs and those with undercoats really benefit from this type of brush, as it lifts the fur, helping to aerate the skin, release dander and remove undercoat. You need to try holding a couple of different brands before you buy, as ideally you find one that allows you to move your hand, wrist and arm in long strokes - some people find a slicker with a curved face is best as it can be more ergonomic picking up more coat, depending how your body works, and others prefer a shorter handle but a cushioned face as it is gentler on thick fur. You can work out whether it is a hard or soft one by gently using on your own skin - this can also help you judge the pressure to use on your dog - if you find it uncomfortable then be gentler.
There is quite a lot of info out there on the internet, but I hope this helps.

20/01/2022

Hi everyone. I have grabbed a few minutes to raise another issue with you for consideration: when temperatures drop, and the weather turns as wintry as we know it can be up here in the Cariboo (we all got through the last few weeks with extra layers on!) many pet owners stop having their pets groomed, and it is not always for financial reasons.
The reasoning seems perfectly understandable, especially in our colder climes - it's cold out and the dogs need their fur to keep warm. The snag with this logic is that longer hair is more prone to becoming tangled, and tangled fur is not only uncomfortable for pets, but it does not insulate as well as it should. You also need to pay attention to your drying technique and perhaps use a sweeping motion in the direction the fur grows (downwards) rather than ruffling it up like your own hair, to avoid forming matted areas whilst trying to be helpful to your pet.
Another problem is that when matted or tangled fur becomes wet from rain, snow or ice, it does not dry as quickly because it is more dense compared to a well brushed or combed coat. Moisture trapped in the tangles can make pets colder, and can also contribute to further matting of the fur: the best solution is to maintain regular grooming through the year. Fur that is kept clean, well brushed or combed can be left longer during the cold months.
Always ask your groomer if they can do a different groom - i.e. a 'bath and brush out' to help you maintain the coat. It is likely to be cheaper than a full groom and a worthwhile investment in your pets' welfare.
The other problem most of us are encountering at the same time, is that with reduced moisture in the air, static can build up in/on the fur, which apart from giving you both small shocks, also contributes to tangling effects. You can help reduce this by using a conditioner after any bath you give your pet, and using a moisturising coat spray while brushing and combing your dog at home. I know some of you may not be able to easily afford the extra expense of these, but for an occasional help, get an inexpensive spray bottle from places like the dollar stores, fill with good water (i.e. drinking or spring-type water NOT tap water with lots of minerals), and just give a light spray over the area you are next going to brush or comb. Do not wet the coat area until you are ready to work on it or you may find yourself spraying so much water by the time you get there that the coat is now wet and has to be dried.....start of a vicious circle!
This should help with the static without making the coat wet and chilling your dog.
One final thought - I know some people tend to wipe their pet with a dryer sheet to combat static but be cautious as the chemicals and/or perfumes that give them their properties are not designed with animal friendly intention. If your dog licks or washes themselves later, think about how much chemical they may be ingesting over time. Personally I have never found this of benefit and would not advocate it.
I see it has now started snowing, so I now have to keep a towel handy to wipe down instead! At least the static will have gone......

13/01/2022

well happy new year to everyone, let us hope our dogs keep us as sane and healthy as last year - don't know how I would have managed without him, difficult though Moose is!
So here we are with a new internet provider and things seem to be going better - some of you will know I am the least tecchie person I know. at least I have the confidence I can post again!!
Now that the extreme cold has left us, just a couple of reminders on paw care:
if you are using crusher fines or similar to prevent your local area being an ice-rink worthy of the Olympic trials, remember to check in between pads regularly: small pieces can be caught in the fur if you do not have it regularly trimmed short, and if snow re-freezes round it, your dog will find it pretty uncomfortable. A dish of water or bucket to swish their feet in once they are back indoors is a great way to get rid of any bits, and if you stand it on a towel then you can quickly rub them dry too.
Similarly if you are walking on areas that have been brined or have had chemical deicers, rinse and dry your dogs feet well - do not allow them to lick clean - the salt can cause cracked pads and dry webbing, and most of the chemicals were not designed to be ingested by wither human or dog. Small dogs especially can be potentially poisoned quickly by either. Keeping their feet clean with plain water may not seem much of a 'pawdicure' but it can help prevent discomfort to your dog and avoid the vet.
Lastly, if you have a yard like ours where the pine needles dropped over the winter are reappearing out of the snow, just check every now and then, especially if your dog has longish fur, as if these get trapped they can also be uncomfortable and in the worst cases, may begin to pe*****te the skin if held in by matting fur. I did have a couple of clients with this in the autumn, but looking at our current snow surface, they have suddenly appeared everywhere it seems.
Keep well and happy paws!

03/05/2020

Hi everyone
apologies for the typos in the last offering - that is what happens when you try and do without your glasses: I need to get new ones anyway but with the covid problems that is on a bit of a back burner.
Just thought I would suggest a couple of articles for those of you who may think that cutting your dogs fur off in summer is being kind - especially for double coated breeds - when in actual fact there are good reasons not to, but to get your dogs well groomed instead.
the first is https://jimsdogwash.net.au/2018/03/06/keeping-double-coated-breeds-cool-summer
and the second is https://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/why-you-shouldnt-shave-your-dog-in-summer
that has a couple of diagrams that explain it really well. Of course if your dog has a veterinary recommendation or a medical condition identified, that takes precedence for the health and well being of your dog, but if you are a new pet owner that is unsure, or you have just got a breed/crossbreed that has a coat you are despairing of, read these 2 before you decide.
Also be aware that not all groomers will shave a dog, be prepared for lots of discussion, as we are generally taught not to do this for reasons explained in the articles.
In the meantime, enjoy the spring weather and remember to wash those paws!

A dog’s undercoat is exactly as it sounds, it’s a second coat beneath the outer coat that keeps your dog warm in winter and cool in summer. Breeds that are native to colder areas generally tend to have undercoats and …

22/04/2020

Hi everyone. What a long cold winter, hope you kept your dogs paws in top condition?! With the weird weather we had a few weeks ago, a lot of dogs have part blown their coats and that has matted in, judging by the pets I have seen in the last couple of weeks. A couple of them were doing good impersonations of lost sheep, with almost 5 kilos of fur off one poor girl! Needless to say with the hot weather she left a lot happier than when she arrived......
Seriously, though, although your pet may be leaving fur around, if you are not able to keep up with the grooming, they can be in danger of overheating in periods of heat unless all that underfur is dealt with - if you don't have the tools or the time, some of us groomers are still working in Quesnel in spite of the challenges of Covid-19, so do get in touch if you need professional help with your dog.
As the thaw sets in, always remember that the mud can be quite irritating if left to cake on your dog's feet - an old bowl of water and a towel near the door to wash it off when you come back in can really help avoid a trip to the vet, as some dogs will over-lick or bite paws to get them clean as well as biting all the little spiky bits of pine needles that can be trapped in the fur between the toes in all that mud and cause hot spots or even sores: 10 minutes of your time and some water is a lot cheaper than a vet's bill, after all.
Happy walks and loo out foe the bears.....

05/06/2019

Have you checked your antifreeze??
Yes I know that sounds a weird question at this time of year, when we have had some really warm days, but that is the potential hazard: when cars get hot, especially after a lot of travel, then radiators can get sometimes be too hot and over boil or leak slightly before they cool down. Just a few licks of fluid containing antifreeze can be harmful or in some cases fatal to pets. Check around your garage or hardstanding to make sure this has not happened, and wash it away with plenty of water if you have a suspicious patch - much cheaper than a vet bill.....