Canine Capers Dog Training

05/31/2026

Starting this Thurs June 4th

If walks have started feeling stressful…
If your dog seems “fine” at home but falls apart outside…
If you feel embarrassed, frustrated, or stuck…

You’re not alone.

Good Boy is a 4-week pattern games class focused on building focus and engagement at both ends of the leash so both you and your dog can handle the world with more confidence.

Most dogs aren’t stubborn or “bad.”
They’re overwhelmed and so are you.

And when overwhelm takes over, learning disappears.

Throughout the 4 weeks, you’ll learn simple pattern games and practical exercises that help your dog settle before things spiral, while also helping you feel calmer and more confident handling challenges in the moment.

Less frustration.
More understanding.
More teamwork.

05/27/2026

https://www.facebook.com/share/1EkQbjmUY7/

I have had multiple requests today for where it is "safe" to run dogs in Medicine Hat during snake season.
While there are no definitively safe spaces, there are lower risk areas. Keep in mind the following list pertains only to rattlesnakes.

Highest risk: Ranchlands, gravel roads north of town behind Northlands Co-op, Westvu dog park, Echo Dale, most of the 680 Collective bike trails on the west side of the city, Tower Estates, the River Ridge area, the gravel road off of Saamis between Medicine Hat and Redcliff that everyone runs their dogs down, Box Springs everywhere, most of Redcliff, but especially the golf course area, greenhouse area, Jesmond area and new development in the NE corner, Veinerville, and the west and south sides of Dunmore.

Medium risk: Ross Glen, East Glen and the NE portion of NE Crescent Heights, Strathcona, Police Point, NW portion of Crescent Heights, North and South Flats that are closer to the Medalta and open spaces. Desert Blume*, Cottonwood*, South Ridge*, Saamis Heights*, Southlands*, the rest of Dunmore.

Lower risk: SW Hill, SE Hill, Kin Coulee, Riverside, North Flats and South Flats that are farther from open spaces and Medalta, River Heights, Crescent Heights portions not mentioned above. Note that lower risk does not equate to no risk.

* - these areas that I've assigned as medium risk because of the habitat and location but to date have not relocated rattlesnakes in. That doesn't mean that bylaw hasn't, or that they aren't there or haven't been seen.

Places that have surprised me:
I have relocated from the middle of the industrial area on 16th street west, the Wyndham across from Rustic Kitchen and from River Heights Elementary School across from the hospital.

In all cases, the safest method is to keep your dogs on leash and consider using Saratoga Dog Park if you and your canine are the dog-park type. Keep in mind they are avid swimmers, and may not always get off at the right "stop" on the river to use their higher-frequency areas. This is likely what happened with the snake across from the hospital - it climbed out of the river a bit too late and ended up in a strange (to him) part of town. He was probably just as surprised as me and the teachers and students.

Outside of town: I have done only one relocation in Suffield, none in Irvine and the Cypress Hills are probably the safest you will get, once you're in the treed area. (But never say never - nothing is impossible!)

In a recent study, even when directly stepped on, rattlesnakes struck less than 4% (169 sample size) struck at the leg stepping on them. (It was a prosthetic leg.) Our dogs and cats are a little more at risk because they explore the world with their faces and they have predator-driven curiosities. Horses and cattle are less at risk because they have prey-driven tendencies and they are so large.

Rattlesnakes seem to view us humans as very weird looking cows, and their threat assessment seems to land more along the lines of "don't trample me please" as opposed to "don't eat me please" - as long as we aren't messing with them. If we do, our risk immediately goes up and they assess us as predators.

If you encounter a rattlesnake, simply walk around it giving a distance of four metres. This provides a decent buffer, but you could increase this if you have dogs that are difficult to wrangle.

This all said, many people will never encounter a rattlesnake. They’re cryptic, and prefer to avoid us. You’ve probably walked by one in your life and never knew it was there. This post isn’t to generate fear because bites aren’t super common. However, we do need to be aware and provide people the tools and knowledge they need to enjoy the outdoors.

Bull snakes are active throughout the city, and seem to have a penchant for bargains as we have moved them from a dollar store and the old Giant Tiger. Not saying you should go shopping with one, but times are tough these days and maybe it couldn't hurt. If you've read this far and haven't made a negative comment yet, I really appreciate you.

05/27/2026

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1BEKx7Tr9w/

At every seminar I teach, I can spot them within 5 minutes.

Not the breeds. Not the experience level. The training history.

Two types of dogs walk in:

*Type 1: The Waiting Dog*
⁃ Looks at the handler constantly
⁃ Waits to be shown what to do
⁃ Follows the food
⁃ Won't engage with obstacles unless guided

*Type 2: The Thinking Dog*
⁃ Offers behaviors
⁃ Problem-solves independently
⁃ Engages confidently with equipment
⁃ Reads lines and sequences

Same breeds. Same intelligence. Same potential.

The difference? How they were trained from week one.

Waiting Dogs weren't born passive. They were trained to not think for themselves.

Every time you lure, you teach: "I have the answers."
Every time you shape, you teach: "You have the answers."

One creates dependence. One creates independence.

The waiting dog will never read a line confidently. Not because he can't — because nobody ever asked him to.

👉Which type is your dog right now?

05/25/2026

I am excited to offered this class for June

Good Boy will be offered as a 4week class this time and is built around games that help build more calmness and engagement at both ends of the leash

Because training works better when both you and your dog feel calmer, more connected, and less frustrated.

This isn’t about perfect obedience or expecting your dog to “just behave.”

It’s about making real life easier.

Better walks.
More focus around distractions.
Fewer meltdowns.
And a dog you can genuinely enjoy spending time with again.

Over the 4 weeks, you’ll learn simple, practical games that help your dog settle, stay connected, and make better choices without pressure or conflict.

These aren’t just “class exercises.” They’re real-life skills you can use at home, on walks, or anywhere distractions happen.

Because training should feel like teamwork, not a constant battle.

This set of classes is being offered by request for the month of June
On Thurs at 7:15

Pls pm me for more info

05/11/2026

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18iFZVmveq/

🐾 Trigger Stacking in Dogs - Why “Out of Nowhere” Rarely Happens 🧠

One of the most misunderstood concepts in canine behaviour is something called trigger stacking.

This is when multiple small stressors, frustrations, excitements or arousal events build on top of one another until the dog eventually reaches a point where they can no longer cope effectively. The final reaction often looks sudden to us - but biologically, it has usually been building for hours … sometimes days.

Think of the nervous system like a bucket.
Every stressful or highly stimulating experience adds a little more to that bucket:
• poor sleep
• pain or discomfort
• loud environments
• frustration on lead
• repeated barking at the fence
• visitors arriving
• lack of decompression
• conflict with another dog
• overstimulation at daycare, training or the dog park
• even excessive excitement can contribute

Eventually the bucket overflows.

That overflow may present as:
▪️ barking
▪️ lunging
▪️ reactivity
▪️ zoomies
▪️ inability to settle
▪️ mouthing
▪️ conflict between dogs
▪️ shutdown behaviour
▪️ resource guarding
▪️ redirected aggression

And humans often say:
“He reacted for no reason.”
“It came out of nowhere.”
“She’s never done that before.”

But behaviour science tells us otherwise.

🧬 The Physiology Behind Trigger Stacking

When a dog encounters something stressful or highly arousing, the body activates the sympathetic nervous system - the classic “fight, flight, freeze or fidget” response.

Stress hormones such as cortisol and adrenaline are released to help the dog respond to the situation. These hormones are incredibly useful in short bursts, but they do not instantly disappear once the event is over.

Cortisol can remain elevated in the body for many hours. If additional stressors occur before the dog has fully recovered, those physiological responses accumulate. This lowers the threshold at which the dog can cope successfully.

In simple terms:
the more stacked stress the nervous system carries, the smaller the final trigger required to produce a behavioural explosion.

This is why a dog who normally tolerates something well may suddenly react intensely to a situation they usually handle calmly.

🐶 A Real-Life Example

Imagine a dog who:
• heard neighbourhood dogs barking overnight
• missed quality sleep
• became overexcited during morning play
• encountered another reactive dog on a walk
• spent the afternoon unable to fully relax
• then had visitors enter the home in the evening

The visitors were not necessarily “the problem”.
They were simply the final stressor added to an already overloaded nervous system.

This does not excuse inappropriate behaviour. Safety, training and management still matter enormously. But understanding trigger stacking changes how we interpret behaviour.

Instead of asking:
“What’s wrong with this dog?”

We start asking:
“What has this nervous system experienced today?”

🌿 Why This Matters So Much

Dogs are not robots. They are living mammals with complex neurobiology, emotional processing systems and physiological stress responses.

When we understand trigger stacking:
✔️ we become better observers
✔️ we recognise early stress signals sooner
✔️ we stop expecting dogs to cope endlessly without recovery
✔️ we prioritise decompression and rest
✔️ we make better training decisions
✔️ we reduce the likelihood of behavioural fallout

Behaviour is rarely about a single moment.

Very often, it is the cumulative effect of many moments layered together.

And sometimes the most important part of behaviour modification is not adding more stimulation, more obedience or more exposure…

… it is helping the nervous system recover. 🐾

- Donna Williams,
Emerald Park Border Collies.
www.emeraldparkbc.com

"Making life better
- one dog at a time!"

05/09/2026

https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1GFBqaDZmW/

So often I get this request -
"I want my dog to be able to play with other dogs."
And my answer is always -
"Why?"

The reasons are usually similar. Things like, I have friends with dogs and I want to be able to go over and have fun with them. Or, I think she's missing out. Or, I've always had a dog who liked to play.

The problem with these answers is that they are all based on what the human wants, not at all on what the dog wants. Playing and enjoying the company of other dogs is something that WE like because it gives US pleasure. It however, has very little effect on a dogs quality of life.

Not all dogs want to play with other dogs past adulthood. In fact it's very common for lots of dogs past 3 years old to start looking at play with other strange dogs the way human adults look at teenage raves. They may co exist well, or play very occasionally with close dog friends, but the enjoyment of large groups of rough housing and playing no longer thrills them. They'd rather go on a walk with you and play with you. Some dogs, whether because of personality, genetics, or past experiences/traumas, never want to be around other dogs, even co existing is a challenge. However even well socialized, playful adult dogs may not like every dog they meet and as a result be choosy in who they play with. There's nothing wrong with them, it's us humans that need a lesson.

Our expectations and desire for dogs to play with one another has to be checked. I often tell people if your dog doesn't like other dogs, I can help them work through some of that and show them how to walk past them, even be in the same room with them calmly, but can't force them to enjoy playing with another dog the same way I can't force you to like someone else if you just don't.

If you have a dog that doesn't like to play, your dog isn't broken. Change the way you think and give your dog other fun activities he will enjoy rather than forcing an expectation on him that isn't fair. Enjoy your dog for who they are, rather than worrying about who they aren't.
Helen St. Pierre
Please give credit if sharing

03/20/2026

We are very fortunate to have Lauren a physiotherapist that has further education to help our Canines come to med hat once a month
She is back march 28th
If you need her expertise let me know

Check it out
Chinook Canine Rehab

Pls msg me for info

03/07/2026

Sharing this post as I don’t think many people know that rehab can be done for Geriatric Vestibular disease!

We treat BPPV the same way in dogs as we do humans…. with specific maneuver!

Like we say “rehab is so much more than hydrotherapy and massage” ❤️🐶.

~Lauren~

02/22/2026

Next set of Good Boy! Classes start this Weds 25th.
I have 2 spots I could open. Pls msg me

Real-World Calm: Focus and Manners for Easily Distracted Dogs
Pulling on leash.
Ignoring you around other dogs.
Overreacting to sights and sounds.
Listening perfectly at home and nowhere else.

You’re not alone and your dog isn’t being stubborn.

It’s not about perfect commands — it’s about a dog who makes better choices in real life.

This class is for dogs who want to behave but struggle to stay calm and focused in busy, distracting environments.

Instead of drilling commands or using corrections, we teach dogs how to think and stay connected using simple, structured fun games. These games reduce stress, improve focus, and help good behaviour show up where you actually need it.

We help both dogs and their humans replace old, reactive habits with calmer, more confident ones — so both ends of the leash feel more relaxed, capable, and at ease around the things that used to be hard.

This Class Helps Dogs Learn To:
Walk more calmly on leash

Stay engaged around distractions

Recover faster from exciting or stressful moments

Make better choices with less reminding

No force. No pressure. No boring drills.
Just practical skills for a calmer, easier-to-live-with dog.

Who This Class Is Not For:
This class may not be the right fit if you’re looking for:
Looking for rigid, drill-style or competition-focused training

Prefer training that relies on corrections, pressure, or “being the boss”

Want to drop your dog off and not be involved in the process

Expect quick results without putting in any practice.
Real-World Calm is for owners who want lasting behaviour, not quick fixes.

02/22/2026

We are fortunate to have Lauren Peterson of Chinook Canine Rehab coming to Medicine Hat Feb 28th.
She has help so many dogs if you wish an appt message me as i have a few spots available