12/14/2025
This is a fantastic post regarding What to Do After a Conflict/Encounter with Your Dog and Another Dog.
POST- CONFLICT PROTOCOL : What to do if your dog gets into a fight or is attacked
Conflicts and/or attacks do have the potential to really knock a dog's confidence and can even result in the onset or escalation of a behaviour problem, such as becoming 'over reactive' or anxious-avoidant or defensive during up-close interactions.
Risk factors include;
⚠️ Prolonged attacks or fights
⚠️ Attacks or fights that result in injuries
⚠️ Incidents involving dogs who have existing behaviour problems
⚠️ Incidents involving dogs who are already low in confidence/ have a pessimistic bias / are anxious and likely lacking resilience.
⚠️ Incidents involving dogs with health problems or who are in pain.
⚠️ Incidents involving dogs who are already stressed by something or in a state of stress recovery.
For example, they are struggling in that particular walk environment, have recently been stressed by fireworks, vet visits, visitors etc.
However, in many instances, a brief dog-dog conflict doesn't have to become a huge deal. How we respond in the moment and after can make all the difference.
✅ Stay as calm as you can.
Having a huge slanging match with the other dog's owner is not going to help your dog be less stressed.
✅ If it's appropriate, have the dogs involved calm down in one another's presence. Ensure there is distance between one another that enables them all to easily lower their arousal.
✅ Help stabilise your dog's blood sugar levels with some treats, as a significant stressor can rapidly deplete energy, which in itself promotes the dog to be less able to cope with stress.
✅ Make sure your dog does some fun things BEFORE they next go to sleep.
✅ Make sure your dog rests well once home.
✅ Give them quiet walks for 24-48 hours after. Even if there are no observable injuries, there may be some sore muscles and additional time needed for stress recovery.
✅ Manage or avoid exposure to other stressors (vets, groomers, visitors) etc carefully for the next 24-48 hours.
✅ Carefully monitor social interactions for a few days, especially monitoring behaviour responses to dogs of a similar profile to that of the opponent or aggessor.
✅ After more serious incidents, arranging walks with established dog friends or more controlled set ups with other dogs is better than relying on chance encounters.
For those that enjoy reading more, here's some extra information....
On our walk this morning a large dog took serious ombrage with Mohawk having testicles. No one was particularly at fault, neither had much time to avoid one another and upon initial glance of the dogs approaching one another on the same path- there was no reason to.
Everyone looked pretty relaxed, until Mohawk's musk wafted up the dog's nostrils!
As is the case with most dog-dog conflicts, it was just a big display of noise and body barging. Mohawk was caught off guard and pushed down- but eventually had little choice but to stick up for himself as soon as the opportunity arose, with ritualistic behaviour (bark, air snap, charging and pushing back at the dog).
Whilst conflicts between dogs can feel like they go on for ages, more often than not, it's a few seconds before someone yeilds and things diffuse. Or, as was the instance today, a handler steps in.
In this instance, once the other dog was restrained by his owners and Mohawk and Amigo were by my side- I asked the owner (who I happen to know a little) to not rush off.
Thankfully, we had all stayed very calm during the incident itself. There was no shouting from either party. No one got angry with the dogs, nor each other. These things happen!
Upon my request, we all quietly found a distance where the dogs were not anxious of one another and we spent a couple of minutes there- letting their arousal lower.
Neither dog was straining to get to the other, no one was shooting daggers or anxious glances at one another.
The distance meant that all the dogs were aware of one another- but no longer perceiving one another as a threat.
Once their arousal had simmered down, we both went on our way. The final experience all dogs had with one another present was neutral at worst, or mildly positive (strokes, treats etc) at best.
We then resumed walking with two other dogs (they moved away from the drama and waited for us). This enabled Mohawk a little distraction and social buffer afterwards. I was mindful to carefully watch his behaviour around the two dogs incase the stress made him more anxious around them, but he was fine.
Once we parted ways with them, we did our normal fun stuff en route back to the car. We went to the pond (Mohawk loves water) and we did a couple of reps of searching for a toy once Kanita was back in the car.
By engaging in some positive activities after the incident, I have made it less likely that Mohawk will consolidate the negative experience in his memory.
Of course, he may remember that specific dog and I need to be mindful of how he responds to dogs with a similar profile to that dog over the next week or so. But staying calm, not leaving the context in a heightened state of stress and doing some fun things after are all likely going to support him not creating strong fear based memories of that event.
To inexperienced dog owners or to those with previous negative experience, dog-dog conflicts can be incredibly scary.
For those working on their dog's social behaviour - they can create huge anxiety with regards to all that hard work being undone.
Staying calm and not giving the other owner a piece of your mind isn't always easy, especially when a dog's behaviour is seriously offensive, such as charging across a big distance to attack your dog.
IF YOUR DOG IS INJURED 😩
If injuries have been sustained, of course staying calm is difficult - but do your best to be as calm as you possibly can.
If your dog is clearly in pain or distress - it’s not advisable to hang around the attacker and hope your dog may calm down nor expect them to be able to engage in training and games!
If your dog is in pain, then calmly getting them to safety is advisable.
If the injuries are minor then see if your dog is able to enjoy some food enrichment once home, such as treat searches, lickimats and chews. If they seem up for a tiny bit of fun training (nothing too crazy) then great- but don't pressure them to do anything they don't appear motivated to do.
Doing these activities BEFORE your dog has a sleep serves to prevent your dog consolidating a memory of the negative experience.
If they require vet treatment, depending on the severity of the injuries, giving them some time to rest before they go to the vets is advisable, so they don't go from one hugely stressful situation straight into another.
Avoid waiting in the vet's waiting room with your dog - as they will not have the resources to cope with other dogs in close proximity in an environment often associated with feeling stressed. Wait in the car or a quiet spot outside the clinic until your vet is ready to see you.
SHOULD YOU REASSURE YOUR DOG?
Again, it depends on how serious the incident was.
When dogs are more distressed, especially immediately after an attack or serious fight, they may seek and need more reassurance. Feeling accepted and supported by their social group can help them feel safe again.
In some instances, they may not seek reassurance nor value it.
Mohawk immediatly came to me for some support and strokes once the other dog was restrained, but I did not excessively reassure him. He knew I was there to support him, but I did not want him to think there was a bigger problem than there actually was by excessively worrying over him.
Once home, he had his normal level of cuddles if he asked for them. It was business as usual as far as our routine and interactions go. I’m not going to give him reassurance or constantly check on him if he’s not acting like he wants and needs it.
Provide reassurance if your dog asks for it, but be mindful that your reassurance is indeed perceived as comforting. It's easy for our own residue stress and understandable concern for our dogs to make us appear anxious, and us behaving anxiously is not going to help our dogs feel safe again.
For more information on supporting dogs with dog-dog issues, including how to respond to incidents such as these, I am hosting a 4 part webinar on dog-dog issues- starting this Tuesday (Dec 16th 6.30pm). This is linked in the comments.
