Angela McLeod Equine Veterinarian

Angela McLeod Equine Veterinarian Mobile equine veterinarian available for appointments in Macarthur, Wollondilly and Southern Highland regions Please ring or email for a quote.

Alongside routine veterinary diagnostics and treatment, Angela has a great interest in the field of biomechanics and training of the horse correctly as an athlete to prevent injury and optimise performance and wellbeing. Angela offers hendra vaccinations at very reasonable rates. Routine heathcare, lameness examination and treatment, microchipping, castration etc.

Everyday is a good day for a ride! „no hour of life is wasted that is spent in the saddle“ Winston Churchill
02/08/2025

Everyday is a good day for a ride! „no hour of life is wasted that is spent in the saddle“ Winston Churchill

We need to treat our horse’s back as a precious and delicate object. It was not built to carry a rider but, with trainin...
23/06/2025

We need to treat our horse’s back as a precious and delicate object. It was not built to carry a rider but, with training, is perfectly capable of doing so.
A heavy, inconsiderate seat of the rider which bangs down on the back with every stride will cause the horse to stiffen or hollow his back, preventing it from swinging, disrupting the free movement of the limbs and making a connection over the back impossible.
Whenever I mount a horse, I keep my weight off the back and in the stirrups until he has moved off for a few strides in walk before gently easing into the saddle when the hindlegs have had a chance to step forward underneath my weight. This doesn’t mean visibly standing in the stirrups, just having my weight in them to give the horse a chance to raise his back. The closer the rider’s weight is to the pommel, the easier it is for the horse to raise his back.
Riders who don’t yet have the balance to keep their weight in the stirrups benefit from a neck strap to help pull their weight forward and out of the horse’s way. They may also need to shorten their stirrups a hole or two to make it easier. Practicing standing in the stirrups in rising trot will help them gain strength and balance. It is important in the rising trot to remember to sit lightly on the down stride to avoid punishing the horse’s back. Again, pushing your weight into the stirrups can help. The horse needs to have his back up and swinging before the rider will be able to comfortably sit the trot.

This is worth a read. It doesn’t matter what gear you ride your horse in, as long as your horse is moving biomechanicall...
18/06/2025

This is worth a read. It doesn’t matter what gear you ride your horse in, as long as your horse is moving biomechanically soundly with the correct posture.
Well trained horses should be able to carry themselves correctly without a bridle at all.
But it isn’t kinder to ride without a bit when the horse‘s back is hollow and hindlimbs trailing, as this will lead to a sore back and lameness problems down the track.

There’s a growing fad in the horse world right now that I think we need to take a serious and honest look at. I’m talking about the trend of going completely bitless—not just as an occasional option or for a specific situation, but as a blanket philosophy that a bit should never be used on a horse. It’s being promoted as a more humane, kinder, gentler approach to horsemanship.

Now, I want to start by saying this: I’m not against riding bitless in the right context. I’ve done it myself. A good horseman should be able to ride a horse in a halter, a bridle, a piece of baling twine—or nothing at all—if the foundation is there. The bit itself isn’t what makes a horse soft, responsive, or correct in their movement. That comes from training, timing, and feel.

But here’s the problem:

Going bitless exclusively—as a philosophy rather than a tool—can lead to a number of problems, and I’ve seen them firsthand. The bit is not an instrument of cruelty unless it's used cruelly. Just like spurs, ropes, or even our own hands, it’s not the tool—it’s the hand behind it that matters.

When we take the bit completely off the table, we’re giving up one of the most effective and fair ways to communicate with the horse. We lose precision in lateral flexion, collection, and vertical softness. And more importantly, we often lose the ability to help the horse use their body correctly.

And that’s where real issues start to surface.

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🧠 What Many Don’t Realize...

Many riders who go bitless because it “feels nicer” don’t actually realize what they’re giving up in terms of biomechanics. They don’t know what they don’t know.

They’re not seeing the subtle changes in posture. The dropped back. The strung-out hindquarters. The braced jaw. The hollow frame. The lack of engagement. The imbalance. The unsoundness that creeps in over time.

These aren’t just little cosmetic issues—this is the kind of stuff that leads to sore backs, hock and stifle problems, uneven hoof wear, and even long-term lameness. But because the horse is quiet or obedient—or just not outright saying “no”—they think everything is fine.

I’ve had horses come in for training or rehab that have been ridden exclusively bitless, and the moment I pick them up with even a soft feel on a snaffle, they’re lost. Not because they’re being mistreated, but because they simply don’t have the body education to understand what’s being asked. They’ve never been helped to move correctly. And you know what? That’s not the horse’s fault.

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🐴 The Horse Deserves More Than Our Good Intentions

The truth is, there’s a big difference between doing what feels good to us as riders… and doing what is actually good for the horse.

We all want to feel like we’re doing right by our horses. That’s noble. That’s the kind of heart I respect. But good intentions alone don’t build a sound, confident, correct horse. Knowledge, experience, and proper education do.

There is nothing inherently cruel about using a bit. In fact, when used with skill and timing, a bit can allow us to communicate with greater subtlety and support the horse in achieving true balance and lightness. I would even argue that, when used properly, a bit is often the kindest option—because it allows for clearer, lighter, more effective communication.

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⚠️ Be Cautious of Absolutes

The horse world has always been full of trends and movements. And any time we start hearing “always” and “never” attached to tools like bits or spurs, we need to pause and think critically. Absolutes usually point to ideology, not horsemanship.

I’ve ridden horses bitless. I’ve also ridden with snaffles, hackamores, correction bits, and more. Each one is a tool, and each one has a time and place depending on the horse’s level, physical condition, goals, and mental state.

If your horse is truly soft, collected, and balanced in a bitless headstall—great. But if the only reason you’re avoiding a bit is because someone told you it’s “mean,” you may be doing your horse a long-term disservice without even knowing it.

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🔍 What Should We Be Asking?

Instead of asking, “What kind of gear makes me feel better about myself?” … maybe we should be asking:

“Is my horse moving in a way that promotes soundness and longevity?”

“Does my horse understand how to carry themselves in balance?”

“Can I ride my horse in a bit and have them respond calmly and willingly?”

“Am I avoiding the bit because I lack the knowledge to use it properly?”

If we answer those questions honestly, we’ll be doing far more for our horse’s well-being than we ever could by following trends or trying to “out-kind” one another online.

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💬 Let’s Keep the Conversation Respectful

I know posts like this can ruffle some feathers. That’s not my goal. I’m not here to shame anyone or say there’s only one “right” way to ride. What I am here to do is to encourage people to think a little deeper, look a little harder at their horse’s movement and well-being, and not get swept up in feel-good fads without understanding the long-term consequences.

The horse deserves better than that.

If you’ve been curious about this topic or even struggling with it, I’m happy to have a respectful conversation. Drop a comment or send a message. The door’s always open.

Let’s keep learning, keep improving, and—most importantly—keep putting the horse first.

— Tim Anderson Horse Training

Re- sharing an article I wrote a few years ago while I miss riding the racehorses… the horse in the photo was my best TB...
13/06/2025

Re- sharing an article I wrote a few years ago while I miss riding the racehorses… the horse in the photo was my best TB mate, Cocky, who came to vet school with me and competed around NZ in eventing

I often see ‘Horse Wanted’ ads for people with a limited budget stating they don’t want a Thoroughbred or Standardbred. I don’t know which breed they have in mind, especially here in Australia, but for an amateur rider I wouldn’t go past an OTTB and this is why. There are many benefits to

Horses with weak backs will be inclined to raise their heads too high and drop their backs under the rider’s weight, lea...
13/06/2025

Horses with weak backs will be inclined to raise their heads too high and drop their backs under the rider’s weight, leading to uneven, uncomfortable paces.
At first the horse should learn to carry the rider with a straight back and seek the contact by lowering his head. Only then can the rider use their driving aids to encourage the hindlegs to step more under the horse’s body so that the rider can, by restraining him with the reins, cause him to round his back and elevate his head and neck, so his crest is closer to the rider’s body.
The driving aids must always be the dominant aids. Overuse of the restraining aids will hinder
the reach of the hindlegs and cause the horse’s back to hollow.

It is important to vary your training and incorporate long hacks, up and down hills, over uneven terrain if possible int...
11/06/2025

It is important to vary your training and incorporate long hacks, up and down hills, over uneven terrain if possible into your horse’s training as well as arena work. These long hacks will strengthen your horse’s muscles and make the dressage work easier as many of the problems that arise during training and lead to evasions are caused by a lack of strength in the back and hind quarter muscles.

PM or email me with expressions of interest or for more information if you are interested in participating in one of my ...
10/06/2025

PM or email me with expressions of interest or for more information if you are interested in participating in one of my clinics to be held local to the Camden, NSW area in the very near future, whether as a riding participant or an auditor. Look forward to hearing from you! ❤️

A friend recently asked me about a problem with a horse she has in training. She said he is a really nice horse that is ...
09/06/2025

A friend recently asked me about a problem with a horse she has in training. She said he is a really nice horse that is strong but also fussy with the bit, chomping and fiddling in and out of the contact.

I have written a couple of rather lengthy articles on contact/ connection, which you can find on my website but I thought I would make a brief(ish) comment on my assessment of her problem here.

My friend asked for my opinion on which bit she should try on him. I am not an expert on bits and although I am aware that some horses will go better in different size or shapes of bit, I don’t think this is the problem here.

Contact is the third element on the training scale; coming after rhythm and relaxation, and suppleness. If the horse is not relaxed in his mind and supple in his muscles, moving energetically forward over a supple, swinging back into an even accepting contact he is not correctly on the aids and there is not a true connection over his back connecting the thrust from the hindquarters to the rider’s hands.

In his book ‘Riding Logic’, Wilhelm Mueseler describes the process of ‘putting a horse to the aids’.

This putting of the horse to the aids means that “1. the horse is fully relaxed. There must be no tension or rigidity of any kind, either in the jaws, the poll, the neck, the back or the legs, nor in any joint or muscle- nowhere.
2. That the horse is properly between the legs, at the rider’s back, at the reins and in equilibrium. This means that the whole of the moving mechanism of the horse must be willingly put at the disposal of the rider. “

Muesler goes on to explain how to put a green horse, a well-trained horse, and a badly trained horse to the aids and I thoroughly recommend any serious rider read this book.

I will not go into it here but it is the basis of equine biomechanics. The horse must work as a unit. If there is tension in one part of the body it will be transferred to the whole system.

If the hindlimbs are not active enough, due to connections with the long back muscles, the back cannot be supple. If the back is not supple, impulsion cannot travel uninterrupted over the back to produce a steady contact.

The fact is that many, if not most horses have never been truly taught to be put to the aids.

To quote Muesler again,
“Putting the horse to the aids is the starting point to which the rider must return if his horse shows the slightest indication of disobedience, bad habits, tenseness or difficulties of any kind…..As soon as this has been accomplished all difficulties, tensions ans so on will disappear, the natural movements will return and harmony between horse and rider will be re-established.“

A green riding horse needs to learn as soon as possible to use his neck as a way of balancing the weight of the rider.  ...
09/06/2025

A green riding horse needs to learn as soon as possible to use his neck as a way of balancing the weight of the rider.  When first ridden, the weak horse, unaccustomed to the rider’s weight will either tense his back and potentially buck; or drop his back and let it sag. In either case the paces become irregular and uncomfortable for the rider and the horse’s paces are restricted.
The rider will either feel like they are sitting in a hammock and riding a camel or that they are sitting on a stiff board that could explode at any time.
The key is to teach to horse to relax, and “find his way to the ground” whereby he uses his nuchal ligament foremost (which requires no energy) to relieve the upper back muscles of supporting the weight of the rider.
This will be easier to achieve on horses with a naturally long neck as they will soon tire of holding their head in an elevated position and relax and let it drop. The rider can encourage this by riding in a light seat and as close to the withers as possible .
It is important that the hindlimbs are actively engaged and driven forward in the stretch to avoid the horse merely falling on the forehand. When the hindlimbs exert a pull on the back in the opposite direction it will encourage the horse to stretch the neck forward, rather than curling under.

We know that the correct carriage of the neck of a correctly ridden horse is a bent position. However if the flexor (und...
09/06/2025

We know that the correct carriage of the neck of a correctly ridden horse is a bent position. However if the flexor (underneck muscles) played an active role in this , then we would expect them to increase in size throughout the course of training. This would mean the lower part of the neck would become larger.

However this is not the case; with correct training the flexor muscles decrease in size and the jugular groove becomes more obvious.

The upper neck muscles increase considerably in size over the course of correct training.
This is because they do the work of supporting the head and neck against gravity.

When the horse stretches or lowers his neck the vertebral column hangs on these muscles.
As the horse’s upper neck muscles become stronger over time, they are able to hold the neck in a higher carriage, while it remains in a lengthened state. They are able to lift the 4th to 7th vertebrae to the withers, the neck loses it’s S- shape and the neck becomes longer. In this way the horse can also appear to gain height.

It is possible to assess how your training is progressing by observing the changes in your horse‘s musculature over time.

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